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post #1 of 21 Old 03-31-2013, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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Hertz Audio Upgrade, Honda 2013

I. I want to thank everyone on this site and diyma for the help in getting my system together. Searching for all the parts I needed and ideas to make this happen was a lot easier with all the knowledge the members post to the site.

II. Components.

A. Stock Head Unit, 2013 Honda Accord Sedan Sport

B. LOC, BEST LOC IN The World this eliminates the need to run a 12vdc turn on wire for your amp, and it has 9.5 VAC max output for clean signal.

C. Hertz Audio HSK 165L, mid bass in the front doors.

D. 3/4" Baffles, Baltic Birch plywood


E. Road Kill sound deadener in the front doors

F. Tweeter, FULL RANGE, Auro Whisper "NSW2-326-8AT" in custom pods for sale later , These speakers have an amazing sound to them. They need help on the low end (165 Hertz), but they sound very nice from 250hz - 15Khz high end. Don't worry about the spec's, if you can hear past 15,000 hertz your still young, and it wont last very long.

G. PPI P900.4 active

Modification: Minor 1/8th inch dremel to make the hertz fit in the doors.

Mids have so much kick that I don't need a subwoofer just yet. But I will add a PPI P1000.1 with a IDQ12 V4 in the future.

Final upgrade will be the Jbl ms-8 to tie it all together.


Last edited by dea2; 03-31-2013 at 07:23 AM. Reason: typo
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-31-2013, 01:54 AM
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Wow fantastic! Do you have pictures of the build? I had the Hertz HSK 165L in my 8th gen and was VERY happy with it. They're sitting in a box along with the Audison bit ten and Kenwood XR-5S waiting for me :P

1) How did you make the baffle for the mids? Mind if you share the specs (inner and outter diameter...etc..) of the baffle?
2) Did you use OEM tweeter pods?
3) Please post pics!


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- Rammat BXTII, Ensolite, Big 3
- Audison bit Ten, Kenwood XR-5S, Vifa XT25, Hertz HV165, IDQ12
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-31-2013, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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I used a router with a circle jig to cut the baffles out of the 3/4" birch plywood. The OD is 6.80" and the ID is 5.75"

I purchased the OEM tweeter pods so I could have a good mount for the ORBs that I made for the Aura Whispers. The tweeter pods allow the orbs to be rotated around and pointed in different directions.
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-31-2013, 03:36 PM
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Nice, thanks for the pics

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post #5 of 21 Old 03-31-2013, 06:35 PM
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Will Hertz 165XL's fit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dea2 View Post
I. I want to thank everyone on this site and diyma for the help in getting my system together. Searching for all the parts I needed and ideas to make this happen was a lot easier with all the knowledge the members post to the site.

II. Components.

A. Stock Head Unit, 2013 Honda Accord Sedan Sport

B. LOC, BEST LOC IN The World this eliminates the need to run a 12vdc turn on wire for your amp, and it has 9.5 VAC max output for clean signal.

C. Hertz Audio HSK 165L, mid bass in the front doors.

D. 3/4" Baffles, Baltic Birch plywood


E. Road Kill sound deadener in the front doors

F. Tweeter, FULL RANGE, Auro Whisper "NSW2-326-8AT" in custom pods for sale later , These speakers have an amazing sound to them. They need help on the low end (165 Hertz), but they sound very nice from 250hz - 15Khz high end. Don't worry about the spec's, if you can hear past 15,000 hertz your still young, and it wont last very long.

G. PPI P900.4 active

Modification: Minor 1/8th inch dremel to make the hertz fit in the doors.

Mids have so much kick that I don't need a subwoofer just yet. But I will add a PPI P1000.1 with a IDQ12 V4 in the future.

Final upgrade will be the Jbl ms-8 to tie it all together.
I would like to use my Hertz 165XL's as front stage but the mounting depth is 6mm more than your 165's. Do you they will fit with 3/4 baffles or will they require severe modifications? Also, do you think the 28mm tweeters will fit?

Thanks for your help,
Gary
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-31-2013, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpsvwino View Post
I would like to use my Hertz 165XL's as front stage but the mounting depth is 6mm more than your 165's. Do you they will fit with 3/4 baffles or will they require severe modifications? Also, do you think the 28mm tweeters will fit?

Thanks for your help,
Gary
Gary,

I do not think the Hertz 165XL's will fit. I wanted them also but after some measuring i knew it would be very tight. Now if you go with a 1 inch baffle and trim away some of the plastic on the inside skin of the door cover they should fit. Here is what I measured while doing my install.

2.14" to the down window from the door skin where the speaker mounts.
.70" for the 3/4" baffle
.075 for the road kill

2.915" total depth.to work with

Hertz HSK 165l = 2.775"
Hertz HSK 165XL = 2.95"

I didn't look at installing the 28mm tweeters so I can't help on that.

Last edited by dea2; 03-31-2013 at 07:38 PM. Reason: typo
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post #7 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 12:46 AM
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That's some useful info about speaker depth. 2.9" is not bad. I can think of a number of fine speakers that need less than 2.9" depth, though this limitation does exclude some more exotic possibilities.
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post #8 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 07:04 AM
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So, correct me if I'm wrong, you're spending around $900+ to improve the sound quality on only the front speakers?


Have you thought about just going the modular route and just buying individual pieces? I've been thinking about it and I could probably replace all 4 speakers, add tweeters, add a sub, and have all amplified correctly for around $850-$900.
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post #9 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 12:53 PM
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Thanks dea2

Quote:
Originally Posted by dea2 View Post
Gary,

I do not think the Hertz 165XL's will fit. I wanted them also but after some measuring i knew it would be very tight. Now if you go with a 1 inch baffle and trim away some of the plastic on the inside skin of the door cover they should fit. Here is what I measured while doing my install.

2.14" to the down window from the door skin where the speaker mounts.
.70" for the 3/4" baffle
.075 for the road kill

2.915" total depth.to work with

Hertz HSK 165l = 2.775"
Hertz HSK 165XL = 2.95"

I didn't look at installing the 28mm tweeters so I can't help on that.
This is exactly what I needed.
Thanks so much.

To hotleadsingergu, I already own the equipment so I would rather use it if possible and spend the cash on a Arc PS8 dsp.
I better buy a shoe horn
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post #10 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpsvwino View Post
This is exactly what I needed.
Thanks so much.

To hotleadsingergu, I already own the equipment so I would rather use it if possible and spend the cash on a Arc PS8 dsp.
I better buy a shoe horn
Ahh. Well, of course, if you already own the equipment it's the way to go!
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post #11 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dea2 View Post
B. LOC, BEST LOC IN The World this eliminates the need to run a 12vdc turn on wire for your amp, and it has 9.5 VAC max output for clean signal.
If I'm understanding that correctly, I could take one of those, sacrifice one of the rear speakers, run the wires from said speakers into that, and then run that into either an amp or a self-contained powered sub without needing to run a wire to the battery, correct?

If so, then I could kiss you right in the mouth because it solves the complication of running a power wire through the car to an amp.
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by costasmandylor View Post
If I'm understanding that correctly, I could take one of those, sacrifice one of the rear speakers, run the wires from said speakers into that, and then run that into either an amp or a self-contained powered sub without needing to run a wire to the battery, correct?

If so, then I could kiss you right in the mouth because it solves the complication of running a power wire through the car to an amp.
(Edit: Sorry I didn't read very closely, you will still need to run dedicated power and ground to your amplifier, you just wouldn't have to run the remote). You do not have to sacrifice the rear speakers if you don't want to though. You can run the inputs to the LOC and amplifier in parallel with your rear speakers. The amplifier inputs (and LOC) are relatively high resistance and (therefore) draw very little current. It is common to run them in parallel with the stock rear speaker. Of course you may choose to ditch the rears for other reasons, but that's a different discussion.
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post #13 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by costasmandylor View Post
If I'm understanding that correctly, I could take one of those, sacrifice one of the rear speakers, run the wires from said speakers into that, and then run that into either an amp or a self-contained powered sub without needing to run a wire to the battery, correct?

If so, then I could kiss you right in the mouth because it solves the complication of running a power wire through the car to an amp.
You will still need to run the main power for the Amp from the battery. This LOC eliminates the need to run a turn on wire to your amp from the accessory panel on the Accord. The LOC has 7 wires, POWER, GROUND, REMOTE ON, LEFT +, LEFT -, RIGHT +, RIGHT -. You wire the power and ground into the same location as your amp, then wire the turn on to the amp remote on.

Hope this clears up the confusion.
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post #14 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 12:11 PM
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goood stuff my manz

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post #15 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotleadsingergu View Post
So, correct me if I'm wrong, you're spending around $900+ to improve the sound quality on only the front speakers?
It appears so. Should this be surprising? All speakers are not the same. Besides, the front speakers are the most important speakers in a car audio system. I started off this hobby with $60 front coaxial speakers speakers, this sounded like poo. Then moved on to a few $150-200 components, much better. Then $300 speakers. I am warming up the the idea of giving a try to some more expensive front speakers in future builds. Mind you, I don't advocate that throwing money at car audio will always be a big improvement in sound, but some high end brands do produce amazing sounding speakers that sound great when tuned right. If you look at some brands, like Hertz, Morel, Focal, or Hybrid Audio their "entry to mid level" speakers often start where other mainstream brands pretty much run out of steam, and their higher end speakers are in a different class entirely.

Quote:
Have you thought about just going the modular route and just buying individual pieces? I've been thinking about it and I could probably replace all 4 speakers, add tweeters, add a sub, and have all amplified correctly for around $850-$900.
This is a good budget to setup a good sounding audio system with well chosen equipment. Though, I would also recommend to add a good sound processor, with good equalizer, time alignment, active crossover, etc. This could make the hardware sound on entirely new level. Good processing: the most important part to make car audio sound good IMO.

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