Soundstream compact subwoofer review + install notes... - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Soundstream compact subwoofer review + install notes...

As I know many of you guys are complaining about the sound quality of your 9 gen, well I just wanted to share with you my last purchase. A Soudstream compact subwoofer unit that is self powered.

Model: USB-8A

• 150w Amplifier Built-in
• 200mV-3V Input Sensitivity
• Variable 12dB 50-150Hz LP Crossover
• Variable 12dB 45Hz Bass Boost
• 180° Phase Switch
• >95dB Signal-to-Noise Ratio
• 0.05% Total Harmonic Distortion
• Backed by one year manufacturer waranty
• Remote Gain Control Included
• Dimensions: 3"h x 9.5"w x 14.5L

First of all, let me just say that I was pleasantly surprised by the weight of the unit, and it's build construction. It's very well made and it's very solid too which I was quite happy with. Plus, it looks pretty good.


First thing I did was to attach the unit to the rear deck using 4 metal screws. Very easy to install this in the new Accord. I only had to fabricate one small shim for the last screw that had no immediate backing, and that was it.



Then on to the wiring.

1) one 12V wire brought from under the dash
2) one "switch" wire (12v w ignition) brought from under the dash too.
3) the remote wire and volume knob that you put near the driver's hands usualy... (I installed mine just under the steering wheel, hidden under the dash with just the knob pocking thru)




I connected the main 12V wire to the large red power feed wire. Then Connected the switch to the white wire in the pic.


Then I just routed the wires back, up the side of the boot, then in the structure and got each wires out just were they needed to be using the nearest holes.

I tapped into the rear right speaker for the audio.


All in all, easy install. I took my time and chatted with friends along the way and it took me aprox 3.5hrs.

As for the sound, I haven't done any calibration yet, but I setup-ed the sub using relatively well known sub settings and it does a really good job at bringing that lower end kick out of the OEM system. A great and welcomed addition to my audio system, that's for sure. Having the hability to adjust the output on the fly is awesome too. Next on the list are Infinity speakers for the front... Maybe next week.

For those of you guys who are wondering about the ANC interfering with it. It does when you start the car, if you have the crossover setup too high. My guess is that the frequency the ANC generates is around 100hz or so... So just keep that crossover around 80-90hz and it'll ditch it, you won't hear a thing.

Cheers

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post #2 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 04:34 PM
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Great stuff!! Nice job at taping


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post #3 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 07:07 PM
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Thnx for pix and instructions now i can install this in my car.
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post #4 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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No problem.

BTW, both power wires were soldered. I didn't wanted to use any connectors for the job... That way I know it'll last as long as the car does. That electric tape isn't too pretty, but I know it'll last too...
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post #5 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 08:36 PM
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Re: Soundstream compact subwoofer review + install notes...

Nice and thanks for sharing.

Wonder if this sub wilk fit under the passenger's seat? I have an ex-l so it has a sub already. Still sound crappy

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2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan Automatic - Powered Soundstream sub under the passenger's seat :-)
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post #6 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 08:40 PM
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Very nice install. Looks relatively easy to do! Also, thumbs up for three pedals!!

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post #7 of 40 Old 01-18-2013, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lockeed View Post
No problem.

BTW, both power wires were soldered. I didn't wanted to use any connectors for the job... That way I know it'll last as long as the car does. That electric tape isn't too pretty, but I know it'll last too...
It would definitely last!! This is what I have been doing. Strip> join> tape it

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post #8 of 40 Old 01-19-2013, 03:15 AM
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The RED power wire at the last picture,where it's coming through the hole,it's rubbing there.
I would've run this and the other power wire in a 1/4" wire loom tube.
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post #9 of 40 Old 01-19-2013, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buszman View Post
The RED power wire at the last picture,where it's coming through the hole,it's rubbing there.
I would've run this and the other power wire in a 1/4" wire loom tube.
Already done. I took those picture 10 minutes before being actually finished. I put fabric wire loom on the wires everywhere they were going through a hole or narrow opening. I took those pictures without all the loom so people could see that those where the wires I installed, not OEM wires.

I'll take some pictures when I'm back in the shop.
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post #10 of 40 Old 01-22-2013, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Once I was done with my HID kit, I started to install my door speakers this afternoon. Got one done so far.... I had make some "adjustment" for it to fit in the hole as the magnets at the back are pretty large... they wouldn't fit right against the metal... I had to use the spacers that came with the speakers and add another set of spacer on top of that to prevent any contact between the metal and the speaker enclosure....

But again, pretty straightforward .

BTW, speakers are from the Reference series of Infinity.

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post #11 of 40 Old 01-22-2013, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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oh and one thing I forgot to tell, I made a stupid mistake when I talked about the crossover settings to prevent the hum created by the ANC system.

When I first installed and tested the sub, I had both door closed and engine running and I could hear the noise... I walked back, turn the crossover to +/-80hz and sat back in the car leaving the door open and then didn't heard anything... So of course I though that the lower crossover setting had solved the problem. But it didn't. Even with the crossover set low, when you close the door a rev the engine a little, I have noise conming from the sub which I'll have to take care of.

I'm gona ask the dealer if they can program the ANC to be permanently OFF. If not, I'll have to play with it. (I guess there's no fuse for it? haven't checked...) I wouldn't want to cut any wire...
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post #12 of 40 Old 01-23-2013, 07:35 AM
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there is a tutorial here somewhere on how to unplug the ANC module located in the right side of the center console. a search for "ANC" should pull it up.

thanks for the nice installation photos (very clean instal!) and the motivation for me to get going on my infinity BASSLINK sub!
all i need is some power wire, and the high level input molex connectors.
(got it used from my brother in law so its missing those and the remote level controller)

one thing about your wiring: would it not be better to get input from BOTH rear speakers? incase bass on a certain track only comes from the left?
i heard if you only use input from one side, best to use the left, as mono tracks default to left on a stereo playback. (IIRC).
and i think i saw on the connector its got room for both speakers, so whynot use them?
just curious if you have a reason. i plan on using squeeze taps on both rear speakers.

hopefully the firmware dealers are supposed to get in feb. will fix our ANC interference woes. if not, i would go ahead and unplug the module as detailed in the tutorial here.
i currently have my rear mic unplugged, but plan on plugging it back in when i take it to the dealer for that firmware update. if that doesnt fix it, i will unplug the module as mentioned before.

thanks for the pics! great thread!!!

one more thing: how do the infinity coaxials sound? more clarity? better stage? vocals/mids sound more rich? thats next on my list after i put the basslink in. might go with the boston acoustic components with EX-L tweeter pods.
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post #13 of 40 Old 01-23-2013, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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there is a tutorial here somewhere on how to unplug the ANC module

yeah, I saw that, but I'm not interested in doing it for now. I'm hoping for a permanent ANC OFF reprogram from the dealer if possible. If not, I'll see...

thanks for the nice installation photos



Would it not be better to get input from BOTH rear speakers? I heard if you only use input from one side, best to use the left, as mono tracks default to left on a stereo playback.

True that mono track default to left, but who listen to mono nowadays? I went to the right because it was simpler. Everything is stereo now. Honestly, I wanted to try it like that first and fine tune the system a bit...

I'm not sure it would bring more power to the amp even if both speakers where connected to the sub btw. That would need to be checked. I have enough power as is anyway as I'm running it at 25-50% gain... but might try to hook up both of them to see what happens.

one more thing: how do the infinity coaxials sound? more clarity? better stage? vocals/mids sound more rich?

Basicaly all of the above More refined from low mid to high frequencies and a great improvement on very high frequencies due to the additional speaker tweeters helping the OEMs. Better resolution on the lower end, and there's noticeably more kick. It's a good improvement over stock. I had those Infinity speakers in my older 3.2TL Type-S 2003 and I kept them... For a reasonably priced speaker, they do a great job.
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post #14 of 40 Old 01-23-2013, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lockeed View Post
Once I was done with my HID kit, I started to install my door speakers this afternoon. Got one done so far.... I had make some "adjustment" for it to fit in the hole as the magnets at the back are pretty large... they wouldn't fit right against the metal... I had to use the spacers that came with the speakers and add another set of spacer on top of that to prevent any contact between the metal and the speaker enclosure....

But again, pretty straightforward .

BTW, speakers are from the Reference series of Infinity.

Since you mentioned that the CAN Sport has tweeters, do you see any cross over there in the door area ? If you don't, then it only means that the tweeter connected to the HU, or the HU has some kind of built-in cross-over. I just wonder if the US Sport has the same HU as the CAN Sport. I suppose with all these "standard" add-on (tweeters, side mirror turn signal ...) no wonder the CAN Sport cost more than US Sport.
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post #15 of 40 Old 01-23-2013, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't see any crossover during the install. But, I didn't looks closely at the back of the tweeters... or at the back of the tweeter panels... It might be there...

Often, it'll be just a capacitor or a very simple setup...

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