Anyone have any heating/cooling issues? - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have any heating/cooling issues?

Hello all,

9th gen owner.

Anyone have any similar issues to what i'm experiencing atm? Had the heat gauge (on cluster) in my car not reaching operating temperature, especially if I had the heat on. If I was driving the car, the car would warm up, but if I stopped at a red light (with the heat on) the gauge would fall. If I left the heat off in the car, the temperature gauge would climb quicker. Idling would bury the needle to "C".

Suspecting a faulty t-stat, I replaced it. Here is my dilemma:

Removed rad cap - warm/hot fluid.
Opened pet**** - bone cold fluid.

Drained the fluid - replaced the t-stat (...all in one t-stat with housing) and proceeded to fill the car with coolant. Checked hoses again - still hot(top)/cold(bottom) issues.

No leaks, no performance issues from what I can tell (before or after) - but the temp gauge still isn't reaching "normal" operating temp (shy of 1/2 way). Also, the rad fans aren't kicking on until I turn the heat on in the car. Once i do, the fans will short cycle. (fairly new car to me - and i've never looked at this to know if this is normal or not).

Anyone experience this kind of behavior - or am I being over-critical and this be perfectly normal? I live in Canada. I noticed the temp issues at -30C (figured "whatever - its cold". Today it is +12C and it is still not reaching normal operating temp, so i'm guessing there is something wrong here!

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post #2 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 07:59 AM
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It's potentially simple physics. Waste heat from combustion is transferred to the coolant, but, without sufficient fuel burning (idling) in very very cold conditions, there simply isn't enough heat to warm everything up sufficiently. Then again, there could be some problem other than a T-stat. But, if everything acts as you'd expect when the temps are more normal, I'm betting you aren't going to find any problem.

OH, by the way, the fans turning on may be in response to the air conditioner compressor cycling on and off. Turn that A/C off and see if the fans stop cycling on and off, too.


"Synthetic" is not a literal definition of a laboratory-created base lubricant, it has been a marketing term since the Castrol Mobil-1 lawsuit in the 1990's.

Last edited by Blackheart; 01-12-2018 at 08:01 AM. Reason: ac
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. I'm a bit confused by your response though - as I stated, now that i'm normal conditions (and with a new t-stat), the cars temp gauge still isn't at normal operating point.

My next step is to burp the crap out of the cooling system... bought a spill free funnel attachment kit - will advise if this issue was caused by an airgap!
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Last edited by bigdurk; 01-12-2018 at 09:43 AM. Reason: Additional Info.
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post #4 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdurk View Post
Thanks for the reply. I'm a bit confused by your response though - as I stated, now that i'm normal conditions (and with a new t-stat), the cars temp gauge still isn't at normal operating point.

My next step is to burp the crap out of the cooling system... bought a spill free funnel attachment kit - will advise if this issue was caused by an airgap!
You aren't confused...I'm under a heavy anti-histamine dose due to a cold with fever, and I just missed the +12 comment....

"Synthetic" is not a literal definition of a laboratory-created base lubricant, it has been a marketing term since the Castrol Mobil-1 lawsuit in the 1990's.
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 11:07 AM
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The normal point in the gauge for normal operation is just where you are seeing, just below halfway. The fans short cycling is the AC compressor is on. I would look at the cabin air filter first and make sure it is not clogged up with leaves, might as well change it. If you turn the heat to as HI as it will go does the car get warm?


The normal procedure to make sure there is no air in the cooling system is to take the radiator cap off and set the temperature on heat to hi and the AC off. Start the car and let the car run until the radiator fans comes on 3 times, making sure you keep the radiator full of coolant. Then fill the overflow tank to the full mark and check the level in the overflow tank the next morning and fill it to the full line.

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post #6 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 12:29 PM
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I believe the 4 cyl accord coolant capacity is somewhere around 2 gals. This isn't much coolant. In such cold, with all aluminum parts, heat loss occurs quickly.

If you have one of those obd dongles, you could monitor coolant temp as read by the temp sensor on your smartphone (torque app). Should give some indication of what's going on and more accurate than the dummy gauge.

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post #7 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdurk View Post
Also, the rad fans aren't kicking on until I turn the heat on in the car. Once i do, the fans will short cycle. (fairly new car to me - and i've never looked at this to know if this is normal or not).
The operation of the radiator fans doesn't depend on what the heat setting is at. If anything, having the heat on hot reduces the heat load on the radiator, therefore the fans shouldn't come on as much.

Make sure the air conditoning is off, and you are not in any of the defrost modes either, since that will also turn on the air conditioner compressor (and perhaps the radiator fans as well, but I've never checked that).

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post #8 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 04:12 PM
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Drew03Accord is our self-proclaimed heating/cooling expert and I'm sure he will be along shortly to share with us his vast storehouse of knowledge.

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post #9 of 18 Old 01-12-2018, 09:37 PM
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+12C and still not reaching normal operating temp = something definitely wrong. Mine never goes down, even while it's warming up when it's 15 degrees Fahrenheit outside.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-13-2018, 06:59 AM
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bigdurk

When you put the thermostat in the car did you need to put the pieces together (Thermostat/housing) or did they come already assembled?

I ask in case the thermostat was put in the housing with the "jiggle pin" flipped. The jiggle pin needs to be at the top to allow any air to pass.

+1 on the spill-proof funnel.

I've replaced coolant on many engines and thought I was OK with this 3.5. Did normal steps to burp out the air but still was not as hot as I could get the system.

Re-burped with the funnel method and an unimaginable amount of air bubbles came out. It was as if I never burped it in he first place.

NOW the heat is great and engine heats up very quickly (under 5 minutes and 2 miles or so of driving) even in 0F.
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-15-2018, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys, busy weekend - I appreciate everyone coming in with their knowledge.

I bought and used the funnel; ran the car with the heat on full for 20 mins. No air bubbles. No movement on the temp gauge. I turned off the heat in the car, and the heat gauge rose to approx. the 1/4 (or less) range. It is important to note that the fans NEVER turned on during either of these two actions.

GPz1100 - I completely understand that, but at the risk of sounding argumentative = this would seem a bit of a manufacturing defect if the car can't find and/or control heat(loss) in "normal (Canadian) winter conditions". Furthermore, I've searched high and low and this doesn't seem to be a common issue with the 9th gen.

Miker - the housing assembly was together, but I don't ever remember seeing a bleeder pin on either the OEM or the Motorad assembly/housing.

greg1c - I will check the cabin air filter, but the flow of air is strong - just not much heat behind it (with the gauge also reading the same)

Still battling this issue. Hopefully this Drew03Accord b*tch slaps me with the some knowledge. I'm just trying to prevent having my (own) rear end overhauled with a dealer bill. Still open to suggestions! Thanks again lads, i'll report back any updates.
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-15-2018, 01:16 PM
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The heater core is just a small radiator to extract heat into the passenger compartment. The job of the thermostat is to hold the heat in the Engine by blocking the flow of coolant to the radiator. The heater core is behind the thermostat so Coolant is circulating through the heater core when the thermostat is closed. In your case either the thermostat was not the correct temperature, or the thermostat is letting heat go to the radiator.


There have been other threads like this, but I have never seen a definitive cause. I would plug in my scanner and take a look at the coolant temperature, while sitting and driving. Also, measure the heater core temperature as well.

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post #13 of 18 Old 01-15-2018, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdurk View Post
Sorry guys, busy weekend - I appreciate everyone coming in with their knowledge.

Miker - the housing assembly was together, but I don't ever remember seeing a bleeder pin on either the OEM or the Motorad assembly/housing.
My bad. Looked up picture of the 4 cylinder Thermostat and they don't appear to have the jiggle pin. I'd still do the spill funnel burp. You might be surprised of how much air may still be in there.

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post #14 of 18 Old 01-15-2018, 04:15 PM
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It is important to note that the fans NEVER turned on during either of these two actions.
Hmmmm, that's a problem. To test the fans, turn on the a/c. Do they turn on? If so, fans themselves are good.

What thermostat did you install? This still sounds like a t-stat problem, like it's stuck open.

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post #15 of 18 Old 01-17-2018, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Gents -

Started car (-14C) - sounded rough. Checked dipstick and it had chunks of ice in it. Unscrewed the engine cap and it was full of milk. Fearing a blown head gasket I sent the car into Honda, and it was returned to me saying there is nothing wrong with it. I explained everything to the mechanic in great detail - and it was stated that it was normal to have moisture in the engine - and that the additives would burn it out...

The look on my face must have said it all - because it was reiterated several times that these issues were on file, and if anything happens to the car - it would all be taken into account.

Side bar - bought this car from a "reputable" used car dealership. Before purchasing, I wanted to know what the warranty status was on the car. After a few days I was told there was no (extended) factory warranty. Opted to purchase a crappy 3rd party warranty (Peoples Choice - Platinum - 160,000kms) in its place - and it turns out I have HondaPLUS comprehensive coverage until 2022 (7yrs or 200,000kms). Bunch of MFs!

Anyhow - apparently all of these symptoms are legitimately "Normal". I will report back if/when I blow my motor/rad/seals.

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