Push To Start Conundrum - Page 2 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #16 of 33 Old 01-12-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by flavor View Post
i havent tried that yet, i am having AAA come help with the jump start/towing at 7 am
So it's past 7am and you aren't anywhere to be found. Guess you got that jump start and are now stuck in a convenience store ordering




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post #17 of 33 Old 01-12-2018, 04:43 PM
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I agree it is likely a low battery. My friend's Ford did the exact same thing. All the lights worked but it would not turn over. Was a close to dead battery...just enough juice left in it for the dash lights and such to come on, but not enough to start the car. A new battery from Napa and he was as good as new....

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post #18 of 33 Old 01-13-2018, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPz1100 View Post
Pat Goss had an interesting segment on jump starts and current cars in a recent segment.



Well, maybe not so recent.
A. If you can't connect jumper cables correctly you shouldn't be doing it in the first place.

B. You can certainly mess up an old fashioned car too by connecting jumper cables wrong. You can even blow up the battery itself.

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post #19 of 33 Old 01-13-2018, 04:33 PM
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I thought the main issue wasn't reversed polarity but surges when the jumpers cables are disconnected.

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post #20 of 33 Old 01-13-2018, 04:38 PM
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Ground is first to connect and last to disconnect. No surges...I think

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post #21 of 33 Old 01-13-2018, 04:41 PM
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It doesn't matter which you disconnect first/last. I would expect some sort of surging anytime there's a voltage differential. The 'deader' the battery, the greater the voltage difference and larger spike.

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post #22 of 33 Old 01-13-2018, 05:40 PM
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It does... If you are alone and connect BOTH GROUNDS(black) first, then as soon as you connect ONE red/positive.... You have connected 3 of the four clamps. The red one is left loose with a 12V charge. If you drop that in the engine bay it will short out and do bad things.

Now, if you connect BOTH POSITIVE (red) clamps first, then connect a single ground (black)... The remaining negative (black) clamp has a 0V charge. If you drop it in the engine bay it won't harm anything.

But... Big problem if you want to be safe and connect BOTH red clamps first. When clamping the ground last, if you spark and immediately pull away.... Where does that power go? It HAS to go somewhere. That's when people blow bulbs, fuses, and circuits. Electricity takes the path of least resistance.

If you connect Red/positive clamp last and pull away if you spark it, the path of least resistance is your grounds that are already connected. The spark will be dissipated through the ground circuit you created. If there is no ground because you connected red clamps first.... That spark will be dissipated through the nearest circuit it can find... And fry something you don't want.

Ugh...I hope that made sense. Sorry!

Edit:

Instead of trying to figure out the above, you can get one of those lithium batteries for you and your wife.... And kids if they drive. It's both, safe and won't fry your circuits on accident.
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post #23 of 33 Old 01-13-2018, 09:19 PM
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^^Interesting.

About those lithium ion boosters, any recommendations? Reviews on amazon are a crapshoot. Most have a number of 1 star ratings for things like failing to start, clamps falling apart, or catching fire.

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post #24 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 05:01 AM
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I bought this one from Amazon. Easy to use and very compact. Comes in a nice storage case with multiple attachments.




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post #25 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 08:35 AM
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It's reviews and responses like this that make me shy away from this made in China crap. Apparently it overheated after jumping a car.




Amazon seems to be the market place for garbage these days as much as ebay was/is. Bought a set jumper cables advertised as 4 gauge. What I received what jumper cables with 8 gauge wire thickness. The cables were 4 gauge if one considered the jacket thickness which is very misleading any not how wire is spec'd.

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post #26 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 08:47 AM
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- Stop getting jump starts from people, people mess up on polarity
- Stop paying for AAA or any sort of road side assistance monthly to help with issue like this, it's a huge waste of money
- Stop jumping people's cars, especially German cars with eccentric electrical issues -> have had experience with this.
- Stop thinking you need to get only Honda battery.

** take your money and invest in the following easy to use devices to keep your car battery in tip top shape **

Get these items, most of them one time investment:
- A Noco Genius Boost Plus GB40 and you can jump start right at the battery yourself, without polarity fault. It detects wrong polarity connection and shuts itself down. I bought this for $79 on Amazon and it weighs less than 3lb.
- A plug-in voltmeter, keep it plugged in inside the car and monitor the voltage. I have one plugged in, inside the car at all times. $15 on Amazon. This gives you real time monitoring of the electrical system in a very basic way.
- A $2 bottle of distilled water. Pop the battery's 2 top caps with a flat head screwdriver annually and check the water level, add when you see water level drop
- A Solar BA7 battery/electrical system tester, via Amazon. This allows you to test battery's CCA level yourself without inconveniently stopping by Auto Zone or any local store to test your car's electrical system. This device does not just read the voltage. You can have a battery with good voltage that's completely BAD. This device does a conductance test to find out the battery's conductivity. This costs $60 on Amazon. I do a battery CCA test every 6 months.

Optional:
- a battery minder/tender junior for $29 with a plug-in dongle hung off the battery itself. Keep your battery plugged in when you don't drive it to prevent battery from dying. This smartly trickle charges the battery and does not overcharge it.

All of the above totals less than $200 which is what you'd spend or more from one tow or road side assistance. I keep the plug-in volt meter and Noco Genius booster in my car, especially during the winter.

I certainly hope people haven't become reliant on some fancy battery monitoring technology to tell them their car battery is good or bad.
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post #27 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 08:50 AM
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I post somewhere on this forum regarding my transmission issue which turned out battery related. Want to stress again so posting. I wounder why Honda put a cheap battery when now a days car is electronically controlled so they should put quality battery.

First check battery if

1) You can not start car
2) Transmission do not shift as expected <<<< This happened to me which soon after changing battery went away as transmission shifts are controlled electronically
3) Key fob does not work properly even after you have changed key fob battery. <<< This also happened to me
4) Brakes not working properly even after you have changed brake or brake are still good
5) Lane Change
6) FCW

My 2 cents
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post #28 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
- Stop getting jump starts from people, people mess up on polarity
- Stop paying for AAA or any sort of road side assistance monthly to help with issue like this, it's a huge waste of money
- Stop jumping people's cars, especially German cars with eccentric electrical issues -> have had experience with this.
- Stop thinking you need to get only Honda battery.

** take your money and invest in the following easy to use devices to keep your car battery in tip top shape **

Get these items, most of them one time investment:
- A Noco Genius Boost Plus GB40 and you can jump start right at the battery yourself, without polarity fault. It detects wrong polarity connection and shuts itself down. I bought this for $79 on Amazon and it weighs less than 3lb.
- A plug-in voltmeter, keep it plugged in inside the car and monitor the voltage. I have one plugged in, inside the car at all times. $15 on Amazon. This gives you real time monitoring of the electrical system in a very basic way.
- A $2 bottle of distilled water. Pop the battery's 2 top caps with a flat head screwdriver annually and check the water level, add when you see water level drop
- A Solar BA7 battery/electrical system tester, via Amazon. This allows you to test battery's CCA level yourself without inconveniently stopping by Auto Zone or any local store to test your car's electrical system. This device does not just read the voltage. You can have a battery with good voltage that's completely BAD. This device does a conductance test to find out the battery's conductivity. This costs $60 on Amazon. I do a battery CCA test every 6 months.

Optional:
- a battery minder/tender junior for $29 with a plug-in dongle hung off the battery itself. Keep your battery plugged in when you don't drive it to prevent battery from dying. This smartly trickle charges the battery and does not overcharge it.

All of the above totals less than $200 which is what you'd spend or more from one tow or road side assistance. I keep the plug-in volt meter and Noco Genius booster in my car, especially during the winter.

I certainly hope people haven't become reliant on some fancy battery monitoring technology to tell them their car battery is good or bad.
Amen brother ! 100%

Remember to bring the distilled water bottle in the house for the winter (slyly said out the side of my mouth)

May I add one more item ?

A simpler hydrometer that has the four balls in the eyedropper. Checking individual cells with this item I have found dying/dead cells immediately.

I still need to get the Solar BA7 though. Off to the Amazon store!!!!

EDIT: looks like the Solar family has a BA9 which gives all these tests such as : Crank voltage testing, AC ripple test, CCA, CA, Health of battery overall in %, and % of charge. It also covers more types of batteries as well as giving the readings in numbers not just LED indicators. Does the BA7 do all that ? It also appears to be on sale and cheaper in cost to the BA7 for some reason MSRP about 70$ reduced to 54$ while BA7 still at 60$

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Last edited by Miker; 01-14-2018 at 10:02 AM. Reason: addl BA9 comment
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post #29 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 11:04 AM
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Ownership doesn't mean the same thing to most people. I believe I should be informed and educated about how MY possessions function. That way I can maintenance and manage them correctly.

Bad consumerism has led to the idea that ownership is possession and nothing more. Use it until it breaks and throw it away.

Learning to maintain a battery is fairly simple but knowing how and why is the responsibility of the owner. My wife used to get upset with all the "garbage" I had in the garage. "Why do you need this thing (battery tender)? Nobody else has one".

Now she appreciates all these "things"... But still has no clue.
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post #30 of 33 Old 01-14-2018, 11:21 AM
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I did not get the Solar BA9 because I primarily maintain only Japanese cars and don't often come across other types of battery to maintain either. That BA9 looks like a newer revision from what I've seen in the past. I'd say get it!

The consensus of most people's fear of touching their own cars is the fact that they think they will do something wrong so they take it to a shop. I am one who has had shops do something wrong on my own car. I actually had a high school kid at NTB dropping a wrench on top of the battery connecting both terminals ending up with a big BANG! Then he told me this is OK. It was my luck that nothing got fried. I really got tired of that. But most of the simple car maintenance items now have youtube videos clearly documenting what's used and steps to get things done. If one can follow a video then one can do simple car maintenance items with no issues.

Now stop wasting money and put that towards tools that are useful for a lifetime.

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