Brand New 2017 Accord EX-L V6 - Broken Timing Belt at 5000 KM - Page 3 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #31 of 138 Old 12-11-2017, 04:15 PM
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Lots. For lack of clarity in the moment, I'd describe the sound as "trying to start, coughing, unhappy, then dying quickly"
Well that's odd seeing as how the Honda V6 is an interference engine and I'd have thought there would have been some pretty loud bangs or crunching sounds and I'm not sure it would even turn over after the initial destruction. A broken timing belt would certainly detonate the engine and most or all of it could be destroyed and that would make a lot of unpleasant noises.

Another thing is that the Honda timing belts are incredibly robust but a seized idler pulley or water pump could do it but I'd have thought you would have noticed a pretty strong smell of burning rubber and some pretty decent screeching noises prior to failure. If it was a seized water pump it would have also been overheating. There would have been dash lights and audible warnings likely prior to and definitely after it let loose.

If a car has such a serious failure so early in life it would not be entirely unreasonable to ask for the car to be traded for another new car of equal value but that would depend on the helpfulness of the dealership and Honda corporate playing along. Filing a complaint with Honda corporate would be prudent. But warranty repair will likely be all you'll be able to get out of the deal.

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post #32 of 138 Old 12-11-2017, 04:25 PM
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Sorry to hear that man. Whether or not Honda's quality is as good as it used to be is up for debate, but a broken timing belt at 3000km is definitely not typical of Honda. I sure they will make this right for you. Keep us updated

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post #33 of 138 Old 12-11-2017, 04:53 PM
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My new 2017 EX-L V6 just shut down and died in the middle of an intersection today and wouldn't restart. I have 5000km on this car, and am totally surprised by what's happened.
I had it happen to me on a Nissan Maxima of similar age and mileage, except that mine died in the middle of a railroad crossing. I tried to start it and it cranked fine but wouldn't start, so I pushed it off the tracks. It did start after 4-5 minutes of cranking for 20 seconds at a time though (no cell phones back then to call for help) I kept that car for 40k miles and it never happened ever again.
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post #34 of 138 Old 12-11-2017, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Well that's odd seeing as how the Honda V6 is an interference engine and I'd have thought there would have been some pretty loud bangs or crunching sounds and I'm not sure it would even turn over after the initial destruction. A broken timing belt would certainly detonate the engine and most or all of it could be destroyed and that would make a lot of unpleasant noises.

Another thing is that the Honda timing belts are incredibly robust but a seized idler pulley or water pump could do it but I'd have thought you would have noticed a pretty strong smell of burning rubber and some pretty decent screeching noises prior to failure. If it was a seized water pump it would have also been overheating. There would have been dash lights and audible warnings likely prior to and definitely after it let loose.

If a car has such a serious failure so early in life it would not be entirely unreasonable to ask for the car to be traded for another new car of equal value but that would depend on the helpfulness of the dealership and Honda corporate playing along. Filing a complaint with Honda corporate would be prudent. But warranty repair will likely be all you'll be able to get out of the deal.
I don't know if the timing belt is just connecting the crankshaft and the camshaft, or if there are other mechanical parts that run off it. If everything that runs off it is replaced, I'm wondering if there's little worry of additional problems.

I saw some negative comments posted about upgrading to the 2.0 in a 2018, calling the engine rough and slow. Is this really the case? The performance specs put it slightly ahead of the V6 in the 0-60 mph, by 0.1 second. I suspect that the 2.0 car isn't as responsive under normal driving conditions? Just asking in case I should be pushing for a new car.

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Originally Posted by ImagioX1 View Post
Sorry to hear that man. Whether or not Honda's quality is as good as it used to be is up for debate, but a broken timing belt at 3000km is definitely not typical of Honda. I sure they will make this right for you. Keep us updated
I hope you're right. But making it "right" when only Honda is involved could be a problem, as there could be a difference between what I think is right and what they think is "adequate" for fixing the situation.

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Last edited by namegoeshere; 12-11-2017 at 09:52 PM. Reason: merge
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post #35 of 138 Old 12-11-2017, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BLCKFLSH View Post
..... People talk about the early Accords like they were perfect, and even the owners of early Accords have selective memory, when it comes to the issues they had. The transmission computer went bad, the windows would drag, and the interior door handles would split in half. Just to name a few of the issues. The only thing the 03 Accord needed was a power steering pump, and that cost a lot less than the transmission computer on the 92. I expect the 16 Accord to be just as reliable as the 03.
Any car company makes a few lemons, but Honda makes less lemons than most IMO. People seem to expect perfection from Honda, but no car company is perfect, including Toyota.
Maybe, but most likely not.

Honda engine was what earned it's reputation, not other stuff. Everything else can fall apart, engine runs forever.

My 3rd gen 20year mark, barely a seep from the valve cover gasket, no oil leaks/no oil burning...needs nothing.

My 7th gen 10year mark, every seal seems to start leaking. Strange noises.
When I replaced the drive belt tensioner, the instruction sheet told me that I need to grind off a piece of time belt cover.
When I look into timing belt related issues, I read a TSB that Honda's timing belt tensioner pulley is mounted slanted, need a shim. One has to grind off a piece of the oil pump for the part to fit properly.

This is for a last year model of a generation. A grinder is needed to modify important engine parts!That's very very sloppy work. Their engineers and QC people probably drink a lot.

It's not selective memory. Never expected perfection from Honda, they never were. The sad reality now is: a well engineered engine that doesn't need a grinder to fix is too much to ask from Honda. I won't be surprised that OP's 2017 may have flaws that Honda engineer can't find or fix in 5years.
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post #36 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 03:28 AM
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My question now is whether the car will still operate as well as it did as one from the factory would. For example, I don't know what has to come off or go in because of the new engine. With Toyota Tacoma trucks, for example, a new engine has to go in from underneath. ie the cab has to be separated from the frame in order to install it. I'm sure this is bound to lead to leaks, rattles, etc.
This just isn't true, where did you hear this? The reason I know is because I've worked for Toyota and Lexus for the past 35 years and I've never seen an engine installed in a Tacoma this way.
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post #37 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 05:45 AM
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Yes, the timing belt connects the cams to the crankshaft, thus: "timing" belt. It also turns the water pump and there is an idler pulley in the mix to keep the belt tight and to accommodate the additional slack as the belt ages and slightly stretches and to generally keep the belt from slipping and causing a mistiming situation between the crank and cams.

An interference engine means if the cams and crank aren't kept in sync (by the timing belt) the pistons can and will hit valves in the cylinder head. This can break pistons, connecting rods, valves, cylinder heads and damage cylinder blocks. My guess is Honda's practice in situations like this is to install an entirely new engine unless it can be determined the damage is minimal, say to just a valve or two or just the cylinder head. Honda shops are not really into "repair", they are into "parts replacement". At a minimum I'd think they'd have to replace the cylinder head(s).

If they are going to replace the engine under warranty, let them! At this point and with a basically new car, you don't want a repaired engine because for every thing they replace there could still be concern about those things they didn't replace. And if they aren't arguing about replacing the entire engine under warranty you are golden.
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post #38 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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This just isn't true, where did you hear this? The reason I know is because I've worked for Toyota and Lexus for the past 35 years and I've never seen an engine installed in a Tacoma this way.
Sorry, it was a Tundra. Seal replacement at the front of the engine. Entire cab came off for the change.

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post #39 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 11:41 AM
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Sorry, it was a Tundra. Seal replacement at the front of the engine. Entire cab came off for the change.
Again, untrue.
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post #40 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 12:42 PM
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Sorry, it was a Tundra. Seal replacement at the front of the engine. Entire cab came off for the change.
This is another case of incorrect information being passed off as fact on internet forums.

This isn't true, at all.


Much like the 2.0t being rough and slow. That's just nonsense rumors and myths started by Accord owners that haven't driven the 10th gen.
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post #41 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 01:11 PM
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Since the car is so new I would definitely contact CAMVAP and start negotiations for compensation.

We don't have a lemon law in Canada but I would look into your rights here:



My 1 month old car had to have the transmission pulled to "fix" a fluid leak, but it never really resolved the issue.
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post #42 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Again, untrue.
It's completely true. They removed the cab to get at the seal at the front of the engine instead of removing the grille and going in from the front. If you don't believe me, feel free to call Penticton Toyota yourself. 1 888-783-8905. Perhaps your shop always replaces it by going in from the front.

So you're a Toyota mechanic and you're on a Honda Accord forum? There's got to be a good story there.

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This is another case of incorrect information being passed off as fact on internet forums.

This isn't true, at all.


Much like the 2.0t being rough and slow. That's just nonsense rumors and myths started by Accord owners that haven't driven the 10th gen.
See above post or call someone if you don't trust me.

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Since the car is so new I would definitely contact CAMVAP and start negotiations for compensation.

We don't have a lemon law in Canada but I would look into your rights here:



My 1 month old car had to have the transmission pulled to "fix" a fluid leak, but it never really resolved the issue.
Thanks for the useful post, 08EX-L!!

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post #43 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 07:37 PM
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Honda will most likely provide you with new Head and Short Block from the factory. All the other components will carry over to the new motor from the dead motor. Dealer mechanic with whatever his monday morning or friday evening skills will assemble head and short block with a new head gasket, Timing belt, timing, water pump, idler shaft, oil pump.

Then this new dealer assembled long block (short block + head + components) will be married to the divorced transmission and then placed on the lower sub frame. This sub frame is lifted and very carefully goes into the car bay from the underside (hope they don't drop the car or the sub frame with engine + trany).

What else can go wrong?? get ready!

CV axles / boots inboard gasket seal (can leak if not replace or positioned correctly, outboard gasket seal at wheel bearing (common problem with honda as these go out due to water/moisture contamination as it is)this will go bad later and suspension and wheel alignment is only covered of first 12K miles and then it on YOU.
Ball joints/ seals (if it is damaged then the whole ball joint needs to be replaced and extended warranty only honda covers for servicing of the joints and NOT replacement. Beware!).
Steering wheel linkages and wheel alignment and issues that come with poor calibration of suspension links.
Refill transmission with proper ATF in correct sequence and or damage to Torque Convertor with Lock up clutch will happen
LEAKS can occur from?? ATF, Engine, Coolant system.
Oh yes and Did your dealer put back all the plastic pins and rivets as damaged or MISSING, Splash guards, etc.
New gaskets for Exhaust and re assembly, catalytic convertors, etc.

Long story short, Get a Lawyer. Get a new Car.
Timing belt usually never break by itself as a primary cause.
Timing belt can only break consequently for another underlying problem with the motor. Even at high mileage, it is usually the pulley (tensioner or idler) that fails and leads the belt to snap.

Last edited by Rattmann; 12-12-2017 at 07:40 PM. Reason: mis statement
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post #44 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 08:16 PM
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Sorry, it was a Tundra. Seal replacement at the front of the engine. Entire cab came off for the change.
Nope. If the cab came off your Tacoma or Tundra (or whatever it was tomorrow), it was because they had to do it for something else (rust frame recall maybe?) or they sold you a really BIG story and collected enough money from you to fund their Christmas party this year.


Btw, where are the pics of this alleged broken timing belt?
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post #45 of 138 Old 12-12-2017, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Nope. If the cab came off your Tacoma or Tundra (or whatever it was tomorrow), it was because they had to do it for something else (rust frame recall maybe?) or they sold you a really BIG story and collected enough money from you to fund their Christmas party this year.

Btw, where are the pics of this alleged broken timing belt?
Alleged?? I'll take some tomorrow morning when I pick up my loaner....just for you.


I would also like to add that it's somewhat frustrating when you're looking for good advice when you have to battle completely unwarranted skepticism at the same time. I'd like to thank the posters who've added some really good information. Given Rattman's recent comments, I'm going to consider fighting Honda on this, as his comments on follow-on issues that could arise following the engine change confirm my suspicions that the car may not ever be the same after the engine change.

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Last edited by namegoeshere; 12-13-2017 at 10:12 AM. Reason: merge
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