Valve adjustment: should I attempt myself? - Page 5 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #61 of 71 Old 11-17-2017, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPG97 View Post
This one:



Got no clue how old that is honestly but that's where I'm getting the 30K from. I don't see how it would be different for newer engines. Hondas have always had solid lash adjusters, even to this day. I equate the longer interval for the valves to longer intervals for engine oil. I still change my oil every 3K/regular and 5K/synthetic and will do so for as long as I own this car.

Allow me to say this again for those who missed it the first time: Is a valve adjustment 100% necessary at 30K miles? Probably not, but you also aren't doing it for nothing. I'd recommend it as preventative maintenance.
This is the severe condition schedule. Short trips, cold / hot weather. Makes sense to do everything more frequently. it even states to change oil every 3750 miles, which is short by factory OCI standards for a Honda. I would have expected 5k for normal conditions.

BUT, no harm in doing it more frequently. more people should be so proactive


Current vehicle:
2014 Honda Accord LX 6MT 103K
easy mods and changes:
*55W HID lowbeam 5000K (Innovited upgrade kit)
*LasFit 9005 HB3 highbeam / DRL 6500k
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*Trunk cargo net
*All weather floor mats from College Hills Honda
*Gutter Guards behind lower grille

Previous vehicles:
2001 Chevy Prizm 3AT (given away, it was a terrible car...)
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post #62 of 71 Old 11-17-2017, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
This is the severe condition schedule.
For a Honda prior to 2000! Notice that there is no reference to ABS in the schedule? There would be for any Honda after 1999! In my opinion that schedule is totally bogus.


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post #63 of 71 Old 11-17-2017, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ypsibird View Post
For a Honda prior to 2000! Notice that there is no reference to ABS in the schedule? There would be for any Honda after 1999! In my opinion that schedule is totally bogus.
Didn't even consider the age of that manual. I found that same page myself, and it's associated "normal" condition page. I can't find the age, but even under normal conditions, it specifies 30k for inspection. Regardless, everything changed with the introduction of the MM system. There are no longer any specified maintenance intervals for anything other than brake fluid.

Still, If someone decides to inspect or adjust regularly, it won't hurt anything. I noticed on that schedule, it says to inspect at 30k ONLY, does this mean never again? Other items state to do at every such and such interval, but it is implied that you do not check again after the 30k mark. Interesting...

I still have the manual somewhere for my 1995 Accord DX, I'm going to look for it and see what it says about valves. I was a kid, and never checked them for the duration of my ownership (116k to 240k when I totaled it). I was either very lucky, or that was a very well tuned motor. I'm going to say BOTH.

Current vehicle:
2014 Honda Accord LX 6MT 103K
easy mods and changes:
*55W HID lowbeam 5000K (Innovited upgrade kit)
*LasFit 9005 HB3 highbeam / DRL 6500k
*Interior trunk handle
*Trunk cargo net
*All weather floor mats from College Hills Honda
*Gutter Guards behind lower grille

Previous vehicles:
2001 Chevy Prizm 3AT (given away, it was a terrible car...)
1995 Honda Accord DX 5MT (wrecked at 240K)
1989 Honda Civic LX 4AT (wrecked at 180K)
1988 GMC Sierra 1500 5MT (sold at 80K)
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post #64 of 71 Old 11-17-2017, 07:48 AM
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You can check your maintenance schedule here:

Digital copies of owner's manuals up to 2013 here:

1999 Accord Sedan owner's manual says to "inspect brake lines and hoses (including ABS)" every 15,000 miles, for reference. And it also says to "adjust valves if noisy" at every interval, and to "inspect valve clearance" at 105,00 miles/7 years, for the regular schedule. Severe says the same, adjust if noisy, inspect clearance at 105k.


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post #65 of 71 Old 11-17-2017, 09:41 AM
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Valve adjustment: should I attempt myself?

Quote:
Originally Posted by easymike View Post
This is the severe condition schedule. Short trips, cold / hot weather. Makes sense to do everything more frequently. it even states to change oil every 3750 miles, which is short by factory OCI standards for a Honda. I would have expected 5k for normal conditions.



BUT, no harm in doing it more frequently. more people should be so proactive


The regular conditions one says the exact same thing if you clicked the link I shared. Most drivers fall under severe conditions, unless all you do is low traffic freeway drives and no city driving.

That said, it seems the consensus is around 100K. I went ahead and had mine done at 45K, and probably not gonna have to do it again now.

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post #66 of 71 Old 11-24-2017, 08:00 PM
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224,000 miles on my 2007. Valves not noisy, never adjusted. Runs like new. All on Mobil 1 0w-20.

Most reliable car I have ever had. Only maintenance is oil and filter changes plus antifreeze. Changed plugs at 110K and they still looked new. Rear brakes at 110k (only because of hitting a rock). Only mechanical issue was an O2 sensor at 120k. Front brakes, clutch, water pump, alternator etc all still original. Does not even leak a drop of oil.

Took it in for airbag recall last year and, after the xx point inspection, the dealer said "I have heard of cars like this". Just shook his head.

My 2013 has 65k miles. Not quite as good. No issues with valves, but I have a leaky front shock. Everything else is original.

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post #67 of 71 Old 11-25-2017, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ypsibird View Post
For a Honda prior to 2000! Notice that there is no reference to ABS in the schedule? There would be for any Honda after 1999! In my opinion that schedule is totally bogus.
It's must be from a hold Honda. No one changes spark plugs that often anymore, not with the iridium plugs that come with the recent cars.
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post #68 of 71 Old 11-25-2017, 09:43 PM
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I didn't read the whole thread but did look briefly at one of the howto links. Looks simple. I did this on the motorcycle a number of times in years past. Easiest bikes were those that used a locknut/screw similar to what's in this engine. One of the previous bikes used shims with sliding rocker arms. That was easy too. Last bike used shim/buckets. Total pain in the Cams had to come out to swap shims.

Mike did you do this yet?
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post #69 of 71 Old 11-26-2017, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPz1100 View Post
I didn't read the whole thread but did look briefly at one of the howto links. Looks simple. I did this on the motorcycle a number of times in years past. Easiest bikes were those that used a locknut/screw similar to what's in this engine. One of the previous bikes used shims with sliding rocker arms. That was easy too. Last bike used shim/buckets. Total pain in the Cams had to come out to swap shims.

Mike did you do this yet?
not yet, still getting around to buying or borrowing feeler gauges

Current vehicle:
2014 Honda Accord LX 6MT 103K
easy mods and changes:
*55W HID lowbeam 5000K (Innovited upgrade kit)
*LasFit 9005 HB3 highbeam / DRL 6500k
*Interior trunk handle
*Trunk cargo net
*All weather floor mats from College Hills Honda
*Gutter Guards behind lower grille

Previous vehicles:
2001 Chevy Prizm 3AT (given away, it was a terrible car...)
1995 Honda Accord DX 5MT (wrecked at 240K)
1989 Honda Civic LX 4AT (wrecked at 180K)
1988 GMC Sierra 1500 5MT (sold at 80K)
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post #70 of 71 Old 11-26-2017, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPz1100 View Post
I didn't read the whole thread but did look briefly at one of the howto links. Looks simple. I did this on the motorcycle a number of times in years past. Easiest bikes were those that used a locknut/screw similar to what's in this engine. One of the previous bikes used shims with sliding rocker arms. That was easy too. Last bike used shim/buckets. Total pain in the Cams had to come out to swap shims.

Mike did you do this yet?
X2...them really suck. Thought up by the Brits I believe....by an uncle of Lucas - The Inventor of Darkness.

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post #71 of 71 Old 11-26-2017, 07:38 PM
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Yea, shim under bucket valve adjustment sucks bawls. Last time I adjusted shim under bucket valves I snapped the exhaust camshaft on my 1988 CBR 250R. Only cost $120 to get a new(used) one shipped in from Aussie land though. Not the end of the world, but it sure felt different at the time. Such is the pain of owning imported bikes. Gonna have to go in there again and check to make sure I didn't crack any valve retainers. It took me 20,500 rpm(indicated...) for me to realize my different ECU HAS NO REV LIMITER. Ooops.


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Last edited by Das Chicken; 11-26-2017 at 07:41 PM. Reason: vroom vroom
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