Front Door Speaker Adapter Questions - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-18-2011, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Front Door Speaker Adapter Questions

Im installing new speakers in the front doors of my 2007 accord.

The speakers are 6.5" Boston Acoustics that come with a speaker adapter from Crutchfield.

What is the best way to center the bracket?

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post #2 of 10 Old 03-18-2011, 04:15 PM
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Just center it over the round part of the hole and make sure the speaker magnet clears. Mark your mounting locations with an awl and drill away.


2006 Accord SE Sedan - I4 - 5MT

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-18-2011, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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It just seems like such a tight fit when you place the 6.5" speaker over the grill without the speaker attached.

Do you keep the foam around the inside of the speaker grill installed.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-18-2011, 05:09 PM
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You mean that ring of plastic on the inner side of the door trim panel? I used Accord specific Metra adapter rings, not the generic ones Crutchfield sends out, and had to cut about a 1/2" or so off the plastic ring so the door panel would fit with the speaker. If you need to trim it, it's very soft plastic and easy to cut with a razor knife.

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-18-2011, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Can you give me a link on where to buy the adapters your talking about.

What if I tear of the tabs of the mounting bracket and just use self tap screws to screw the speaker and bracket to the door?

Has anyone had success with these Crutchfield adapters?

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-18-2011, 09:26 PM
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This adapter does not require any cutting or drilling

2007 Accord EX-L 4Cyl Sedan 5MT
TL rear sway bar 17mm
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-19-2011, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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I see you have a 2007 accord. Did you use these brackets?

I assume they fit a 2007 even though its listed up to only 2006.

Anybody use these with boston acoustic speakers?
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-19-2011, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schappy View Post
I see you have a 2007 accord. Did you use these brackets?

I assume they fit a 2007 even though its listed up to only 2006.

Anybody use these with boston acoustic speakers?
Yes, I used that speaker adapter and there was no drilling or centering needed. Just snap in like the OEM speaker adapter and attach your new speakers with screws. I installed JL speakers and there was enough clearance. You might want to compare the dimensions of the BA to the JL Audio TR600-CXi

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post #9 of 10 Old 05-11-2011, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Silvercord,

I purchased the adapters and the JL Audio 600 CXi speakers and am not getting a flush fit. Did you do anything to make them fit.

When I put them in the adapters the bottom is not flush with the bracket. No matter what way I turn the speaker there still is a small gap somewhere.
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-15-2011, 06:26 PM
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I make mine out of MDF, then waterproof it with deadener or resin. I get more mass and less resonance. i won't use plastic to mount speakers.


my MDF rings:


factory comparison with a late 90's Massive Audio CD6 woofer






some tools required - a jig saw and drill are essential.


i find that the holes you cut in sub boxes can be reused for door speakers. here we have 3/4" MDF.

start by tracing the factory speaker mount, then superimpose the new speaker basket outline. determine the outer boundaries of the new mount - making sure you leave ample room for at least four bolts. then mark your driver cut-out in the center - i used the factory cardboard that held the driver for shipping as my template.

secure the wood so you can make your cuts


drill a hole on the inside of the center cut out, and on the outside of any sharp corners


always cut the center out first so you can easily secure the overall piece of wood


test fit your driver


finish cutting out the rest




drill out your mounting holes (driver and baffle) and use t-nuts or hurricane nuts for driver mounting. MDF doesn't work well with standard wood screws.


test fit your piece and use tape to help align the mount. mark your mounting holes so you have a clean cut you need to remove deadener BEFORE you drill - as it makes a mess. use brake-cleen or gasoline to remove deadener from the drill bit.



test fit the piece - if it's good then secure with bolts. in this case, i am using 1-1/2" 8-32 bolts with a nut and washer inside the door. you tighten with a screw driver and socket driver.


start by working a layer of deadener around the inside seam where the baffle meets the door


once it is secure, you can deaden over this piece to ensure it is water proof.






and then wire and mount the driver






lastly, open cell foam around the driver to facilitate a seal against the door panel (i tightened up the gap)
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