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post #1 of 16 Old 11-06-2017, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Stereo Issues. Help!

Here's my setup:

Pioneer DEH-P6000UB, Pioneer mid speakers (rear deck), MATT tweeters, MATT mid speakers (doors) 2x 10" Sony Xplod 800w subs, Kenwood 4ch. 800w Amp, and Sony 1200w Class D single channel Amp.

What's going on has been going on for some time already, but have never addressed it because life happens and has always been on the back burner.

The first issue:

My front speakers, particularly the passenger side cuts in and out. It'll be working fine one minute, the next minute it'll cut out. I've taken apart the door panel before to get to the speaker and all the connections to speaker itself seem fine. Nothing is loose nothing is broken. The speaker wires, as far as I can see, are in tact without any issues.

The second issue:

My rear deck speakers appear to be blown. This could of course be the case and they just need to be replaced. I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this and verify that they are blown or just some sort of other issue that can resolve the issue.

The third issue:

My subs don't go "boom boom" anymore. They have been out of my trunk for about 4 years now and last night I went to put them back in. I remember that back when I took them out, they were cutting in and out, but that wasn't the reason why I pulled them from my trunk. I pulled them because of life (kids) and needed the trunk space.

So last night when I put them back in, the amp had power and I could hear the subs "blip" off and on whenever I turned the key or changed the audio source signal between AUX, USB, and AM/FM. The problem is that they are not receiving an audio signal from the source.

I suspect that the issue may be the head unit, or the "breakout" box that is behind the unit. The stereo system I had put in about a year after I bought my car, so 9yrs ago now, and was working awesomely when I first got it all in (of course), but over the years, these little issues developed. These issues popped up after my daughter was born but it wasn't something important for me to do. Now, I'm making a concerted effort to get this fixed as I'm getting back into my audiophilia. It helps that we have a family car too


2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #2 of 16 Old 11-06-2017, 09:10 AM
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All the issues could be the stereo going bad or somewhere in the wiring between the stereo on the speakers. I would pull the stereo and run wires directly to the speakers. That will give you an idea of where the issue is.

How is the amp signal getting to it? RCA from radio? Pulling the radio will also reveal that. Maybe the radio has controls to turn off the outputs.


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post #3 of 16 Old 11-06-2017, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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I've thought of this as well, but I'm not an expert in this. One time I did take apart the center console and removed the stereo and noticed an RCA break-out box type thing behind the head unit. I ensured that all connections to it as well as the head unit were secure but still had nothing. For all I know, all my issues are related to that break-out box thing. I'll take it all apart and post pictures. Hopefully you or someone else can help me figure this all out.

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #4 of 16 Old 11-06-2017, 12:44 PM
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It's possible to test the wires at the speakers with a meter. We call it volume, but to the speaker it's an analog sine wave. Set the meter to volts AC and see if the voltage goes up when the volume goes up, down when it goes down.

For the passenger side speaker, that will work too, but also try a short-to-ground test. Open/close the door a few times while you do this. In this case you want high to infinite resistance (open circuit).

As for no punch in the bass from the amp, maybe the speakers are wired wrong. If they are not marked + and - on the speaker, there's a way to determine the speaker's polarity by using the battery pop test. Connect a 1.5 v battery to the speaker and notice which way the cone moves. You'll have to search the net for this. Much like AC household circuits, there are two ways to wire it and both will work, but only one is correct.

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post #5 of 16 Old 11-07-2017, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtts60 View Post
It's possible to test the wires at the speakers with a meter. We call it volume, but to the speaker it's an analog sine wave. Set the meter to volts AC and see if the voltage goes up when the volume goes up, down when it goes down.
I'll check that out!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtts60 View Post
For the passenger side speaker, that will work too, but also try a short-to-ground test. Open/close the door a few times while you do this. In this case you want high to infinite resistance (open circuit).
On my multi-meter, what would I set it to to do the open circuit test? I'm a big noob when it comes to multi-meter / electrical. About the only thing I know is how to check for voltage and for a closed circuit.

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Originally Posted by mtts60 View Post
As for no punch in the bass from the amp, maybe the speakers are wired wrong. If they are not marked + and - on the speaker, there's a way to determine the speaker's polarity by using the battery pop test. Connect a 1.5 v battery to the speaker and notice which way the cone moves. You'll have to search the net for this. Much like AC household circuits, there are two ways to wire it and both will work, but only one is correct.
The speaker are wired up correctly. I've never changed any wiring from the amp to the speakers. As I've stated, they were previously working just fine for a long time and little by little they began to cut in and out. In fact, last night on my drive home from work they were working intermittently.

The only wires I've ever removed from them in all the years of owning the system have been the 12v GND and Signal wires to the amp itself when removing the sub box from the trunk entirely. Whenever I'd put the sub box back in, I'd wire up the amp correctly: red wire to 12v, black wire to GND, blue wire to Signal. BTW, the amp is attached to the sub box.

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #6 of 16 Old 11-07-2017, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDsDontBurn View Post
On my multi-meter, what would I set it to to do the open circuit test? I'm a big noob when it comes to multi-meter / electrical. About the only thing I know is how to check for voltage and for a closed circuit.
Open and closed circuits use the same setting on the meter - ohms. Open = high or infinite resistance; closed = zero or minimal resistance.

When you turn on a light, that switch closed the circuit. When the light is turned off, the switch opened the circuit. You can also think of a blown fuse as an open fuse.

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post #7 of 16 Old 11-08-2017, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Yes. That is the basic understanding I have. It's what binary codes work on in computers (what I do for a living). But knowing the different electrical symbols, testing for them, etc. I don't know. I just know the voltage symbol, and test for closed circuit with the "beep" I get from my multi-meter.

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post #8 of 16 Old 11-13-2017, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what I've got.






^^ That green thing is wired into half of the OEM harness side wiring. Not sure what it does or what it's for.



^^ The RCA cables with double-sided female adapters are for my subs. One end goes from the back of the head unit to a bass volume knob, goes back out to the female-female adapters, and out to the subs' amp.



^^ The speaker wires are also spliced into the other half of the OEM harness.



^^ Wiring of the 4ch amp to my speakers



^^ Wiring of my subs' amp.

Like I said in my OP, everything was working fine for a few years before it started to cut in and out. Additionally, while taking all this apart and taking these pictures, my subs were working in perfect order. I also made sure that everything was plugged in and firmly in place and that nothing was loose.

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

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post #9 of 16 Old 11-13-2017, 07:26 PM
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. Note it's limited to 60 watts input max, per channel.

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post #10 of 16 Old 11-13-2017, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Reading that, it reminded me something! Perhaps important?

I remember I had the speakers, amps, and subs installed first and later I installed the Pioneer head unit. Is it possible that the green thing was for the OEM head unit? I ask because the RCA jack side of the green adapter thing has nothing connected to it (seen in my first picture).

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #11 of 16 Old 11-14-2017, 05:43 AM
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That green thing does nothing in your car. Look at the unit - one side is labled "input" that does have stuff connected to it, but the other side (labeled "output") goes nowhere. If you unplug the wiring harness going in to the 'input' side of the unit, what happens? If nothing, then leave the thing disconnected & ziptie the harness somewhere.

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post #12 of 16 Old 11-14-2017, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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I know that it serves no purpose now. I'm saying that perhaps it was used before I had my head unit installed? The audio dealer I took my car to (on both occasions) way back when used the green thing as a by-pass or something like that. Would that be right?

Anyway, this morning on my way to work, my subs were non-functional again. They still have power though as I was able to hear them "pop" between signal sources and also when I shut down the car. No idea where the audio signal loss comes from.

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #13 of 16 Old 11-14-2017, 03:19 PM
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Sounds like it's time to take it to an audio shop.

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post #14 of 16 Old 11-14-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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So, no other troubleshooting advice you can offer?

Anyone else?

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #15 of 16 Old 11-15-2017, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Sooooo......I think I figured out what the problem is with my subs. My bass volume control. Tonight on the way home from work, everything was working great and then suddenly the bass just cut out again and a few minutes later it came back on. However, when it came back on, I noticed it wasn't hitting as hard as it was prior to it cutting out. So I began fiddling with the volume knob. Immediately touching the knob, the bass volume came up back to what it was set to. I pulled, pushed, turned, and pressed on the knob and every action I did to it affected the subs' volume level anywhere from immediately mute, to half volume when the volume was at full blast, or put the volume exactly where it needed to be.

I'll be taking out the bass volume knob this weekend and inspecting it. I'm suspecting that some internal solder joints are failing causing the volume to act up in this manner. If my suspicions are correct, resoldering the contacts will fix the issue. Otherwise, I'll just end up buying a new bass volume knob.


2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness
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