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post #1 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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1 Mono Amp to two subs?

Is that something thats normal? Or does it depend on which amp? Its probably better to get a 2 channel amp if running to two subs right?

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post #2 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 06:51 AM
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Back in the day, I had 2 12" coustic dual coil attached to a MTX monoblock amp. Subs wants to explode everytime i hit 15 on the volume...

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post #3 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:01 AM
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Depends on the subs and the amp. Someone feel free to correct me, but I believe...
If the amp is 2 ohm stable, then you need to run 4 ohm single voice coil subs.
If the amp is 1 ohm stable, then you can run what ever subs you want without blowing your amp up.
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to probably pick up this amp:

JL Audio HD750/1

Regulated, Intelligent Power Supply, RealSink™ Heat-Management System. It brings a wider range of voltages and impedances. But more importantly, it produces a stronger, more consistent power range.

* JL Audio HD Series Monoblock Class D, Small Profile Car Amplifier with R.I.P.S. Technology
* RMS Power Rating:
o 1.5-4 ohms: 750 watts x 1 chan.
* Max power output: 750 watts x 1 chan.
* MOSFET power supply
* Remote bass level input (HD-RLC required and sold separately)
* LED power indicators
* Single channel operation
* Preamp RCA outputs
* Single Cycle Control™
* Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink for heat dissipation
* RCA level inputs
* Screw terminals
* Variable high-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
* Variable low-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
* Frequency response: 6-30,000 Hz
* Dimensions: 10-13/16"L x 8-1/4"W x 1-15/16"H


I'm considering either two of these:
JL Audio 10W3v3-2

* 10" Single 2 Ohm W3v3 Series Subwoofer
* Power Handling:
o Peak: 1000 watts
o RMS: 500 watts
* Impedance: Single 2 Ohm
* Mineral-filled polypropylene cone woofer
* Nitrile-butadiene rubber surround
* DMA-optimized, long linear excursion capability to virtually eliminate distortion and increase sound output
* Vented reinforcement collar improves rigidity and stability of the cone, spider, and voice coil
* Spider and lead wire assembly
* Elevated frame cooling enhances power and sound quality
* Floating Cone Attach Method allow the cone and surround to be aligned independently
* Sensitivity: 86 dB

Or ONE of these:

JL Audio 13W6V2-D4

* 13" Dual 4 Ohms W6v2 Series Subwoofer
* Power Handling:
o Peak: 1500 watts
o RMS: 750 watts
* Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
* W-Cone: Unibody design, extremely stiff and light
* Woofer surround type
* Floating-Cone attach method: ensures proper surround geometry for better excursion and voice coil alignment
* Plateau-reinforced spider attachment: relieves stress from the spider at high excursions
* Pole and cone venting: removes hot air during high power operation to improve sound quality and reliability
* Forced-air-cooled aluminum alloy frame: enhances power handling and sound quality
* Highly optimized motor systems: reduce distortion, and improve transient behavior
* Large, progressive-roll spiders: optimized to controls long excursion without limiting it
* Customizable trim ring can be painted to match installation colors
* Dual 4 Ohm 2.75" diameter, 4-layer voice coils
* Kapton voice coil former


Cost wise, the (1) 13" is roughly the same cost of the (2) 10" -- I think its clear that the 13" is probably a better option but my goal is something enough to fit on the two sides of the trunk... I want to get a box built in such a way that I can easily lift the spare tire cover etc... easily. I dont want a big box in the back that i'd have to remove each time to get to the spare, or put the back seat down.

The 13 is pretty much too big to do that.

I guess a better way of asking is whats the biggest sub I could fit into the SIDE(s) of the trunk of a Coupe?
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:33 AM
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It's all about how you wire them. Example, if your amp is 2ohm stable and you have 2 4ohm SVC subs, you can wire them in parallel and have a 2ohm total load. If your amp is only 4ohm stable you would have to wire them in series to become an 8ohm load. The downfall here is you are also reducing your power by 50%.

If you know what amp you have and what subs, I can help you more. If you get into dual voice coil subs the options open up even more.


EDIT: I see you posted this info let me take a look.

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post #6 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:42 AM
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That amp is stable to 1.5 ohms, not bad.

The 13W6 would be really easy to wire, just parallel the two coils and you have a two ohm load.

If you would prefer the 10s you would have to wire those the 10W3v3-2 in series to make it a 4 ohm load (and a little less power output). If you were to parallel these you would have a 1ohm load which is less than your amp can handle. It would best to get the 10W3v3-4 instead then you can parallel them both to a 2ohm load.

I also attached a drawing I stole from the internet showing how series and parallel wiring is connected if you didn't know already.
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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The problem that I'm having, is that I looked up JL Audio's sealed box recommended dimeinsions, and for the 13", it suggests 14.125" deep box... each side of the trunk is 11"... so thats the max debth OF THE BOX that can be built.

The Sub itself is around 9 1/4.... which is why I originally thought the 13 was probably an option.

So looks like it wont be -- so looks like i'm back to (2) 10's
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:48 AM
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Better than skimping on the box....been there done that. To this day I'm pissed at myself it could have sounded so much better if I had done it right.

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post #9 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't really know the difference between the series and parallel so thank you for that and all the research you did. I'll probably take your recommendation going for the two 10w3v3-4

But before I settle on that would you take a look at one more?

2 of these:


.JL Audio 10W6v2-D4
# 10" Dual 4 Ohms W6v2 Series Subwoofer
# Power Handling:

* Peak: 1200 watts
* RMS: 600 watts

# Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
# Polypropylene cone woofer
# OverRoll Surround
# W-Cone
# Floating-Cone Attach Method
# Plateau-Reinforced Spider Attachment
# Radially Cross-Drilled Pole Piece
# Massive Forced-Air-Cooled Aluminum Alloy Frame
# Highly Linear, DMA-Optimized Motor System
# Huge Diameter, Progressive Roll Spider
# Co-Extruded Double Lead Wires
# Ultra-Long Voice Coil


thanks again for taking the time out to look at these for me!
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post #10 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 08:05 AM
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I can't think of any way to wire those to a lower than 4ohm load. They would work, but typically amps put out more power at 2ohms than 4ohms, so to get the most power you want a 2ohm load.

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post #11 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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So would it be better to do a 2ohm? what is the benefit of 4 ohm over 2ohm or vice versa?

If the 4 ohm wouldn't work with this amp

I'll go back to the 10w3v3--- 2 ohm (that I posted in my first post)
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post #12 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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I'm so confused. I thought the problem with the 10w6 was that it was a 4ohm sub and so It wouldn't be good to have 2 4 ohm stubs on a mono amp.

Is it beacuse teh 10w3 pulls less power so two 4ohms w3s would equal two 2ohm w6's?
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post #13 of 19 Old 09-02-2009, 09:37 AM
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use the mono block amp. I think the box volume you read for those subs is for a ported box. Ported is fine it gives you more bump but you are going to sacrafice sound quality. I suggest using a sealed box the bass is much more tight and sounds far better. As for wiring the subs use this website it is a kicker wiring diagram, YES YES i know you dont have kicker but all subs use the same wiring diagrams. If your subs are 2 ohms use the 2 ohms option If they are 4 ohm wire it to a 2 ohm load. 2ohms is the best to wire subs to your amp will one cooler and your are getting pretty much max power. Here is the link to the website <This is for dual voice coil if you have singles go here And the guy above me is wrong do not listen to them i am a professional installer. Wiring 2 4ohm speakers to a mono block is perfectly fine just when you wire them together wire them to a 2 ohm load look for the 4ohm+4ohm=2ohm option on the wiring diagrams i have included. REmember to check if they are dual or single voice coil.
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post #14 of 19 Old 09-06-2009, 01:39 AM
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Just a little FYI, looking at the amp you picked out it looks like it would run 562.5W max at 2 ohms. This powering 500-600W RMS subs, that max at over 1000W will be under powering the subs. Under powering a little is not bad but if you under power them too much you could end up ruining them in the process. I would suggest a bigger amp if your going for this setup, but that's just me.

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post #15 of 19 Old 09-13-2009, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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so the two JL Audio 10W3v3-2 would ask too much from this: JL Audio HD750/1 ? ( specs in post 4 above)

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