Help with front speaker install with component and crossover- 7th gen accord coupe - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 53 Old 04-05-2009, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Question Help with front speaker install with component and crossover- 7th gen accord coupe

I got a set of Focal Access 165 A1 6.5" speakers with components at tweeter a few months back when they closed for a great deal. now it's spring i want to get down to business and replace my stock front speakers and tweets.

For those of you who have installed component speakers- is there any trickery involved in disconnecting the stock door panel speakers and dashboard tweeters? are they both wired directly to the head unit or is the dashboard connected to a crossover network to the door speakers?
If i install my aftermarket speakers, the only wires going to the head unit will be the one coming from my crossovers. will i be missing any frequencies that the head unit would normally output to the stock tweeters? I think this issue will be moot once i install my aftermarket head unit, but that won't come until later.

secondly, is it possible to mount the crossover *inside* the door, so i wont have the box and bunch of wires exposed anywhere? i am not familiar at all with installing components, and on some car domain websites i've seen the crossover boxes mounted somewhere that can be seen. i would like that thing to be out of the way as much as possible!

finally, i think my best bet, and easiest solution would be to mount my tweeter in the sailpanel in the door (the plastic triangle thingy). The tweets will be at my ear level and probably sound decent there, but i've seen people mount tweets in the stock location. is it even possible to get wiring up there, especially having to worry about the tweet wires reaching the crossovers inside the door?


thx hopefully you guys can straighten this out for me !


Update: See post below! many pics, and many more questions


2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
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2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold

Last edited by evident; 04-12-2009 at 06:31 PM. Reason: UPDATED POST SEE BELOW!
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post #2 of 53 Old 04-05-2009, 11:50 PM
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The front speaker wiring from the head unit is left +/- and right +/-. There are no active crossovers in the non-premium audio head units. The front tweeters are wired off the front door speakers. When you install new component speakers, you have to run new wiring from the head unit to the active crossover included with your new speakers. Your new speakers are connected to the active crossover. (The 6 speed manual Accord included the Premium Audio System which included an active crossover on the back of the head unit for the front speakers and tweeters individually).

You won't lose any signals from the head unit because there is no active crossover in use in your factory set up. Hide the crossovers wherever you can hide them. Inside the door is not a good place since rain would damage them. You would have to surface mount tweeters to the sail panels. There is no room behind them. People mount new tweeters in the factory location all the time and run new wiring.

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post #3 of 53 Old 04-10-2009, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstones View Post
The front speaker wiring from the head unit is left +/- and right +/-. There are no active crossovers in the non-premium audio head units. The front tweeters are wired off the front door speakers. When you install new component speakers, you have to run new wiring from the head unit to the active crossover included with your new speakers. Your new speakers are connected to the active crossover. (The 6 speed manual Accord included the Premium Audio System which included an active crossover on the back of the head unit for the front speakers and tweeters individually).

You won't lose any signals from the head unit because there is no active crossover in use in your factory set up. Hide the crossovers wherever you can hide them. Inside the door is not a good place since rain would damage them. You would have to surface mount tweeters to the sail panels. There is no room behind them. People mount new tweeters in the factory location all the time and run new wiring.

when you say NEW wiring, do you really mean new? is there a reason why i can't connect the stock wire going to the door speakers to the crossover?

correct me if i'm wrong, but i feel like it is going to be a major pain in the butt to route new wires from the head unit to the door.

2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
2004 Honda Accord EX i4 AT 180K


2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold
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post #4 of 53 Old 04-11-2009, 02:52 AM
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When I installed my componet setup, I put the tweeters in the factory location. While I had the passenger side panel off for the speaker, I tapped in to the right speaker wire there. Ran a new wire from there inside the cabin. At the same time, ran a second wire. The wire that was connected to the factory wire went to the crossover input. The second wire went to the new speaker from the crossover mid output. I then ran a third wire up to the tweeter from the high output of the crossover. I mounted the crossover under the dash. As mentioned previously, it's not a good idea to put them in the door. Now on the drivers side it's a whole different story. It has a plug that connects all the wires needed. This is not on the passenger side. At least it wasn't on mine. This plug makes it difficult to run new wires through the door jam. So for it, I found the factory speaker wires in the kick panel below the fuse box. I cut the wires and did the same basic thing I did to the passenger side only this time I didn't have to run the wires through the door. You could do this same process for the passenger side if you want. I'm sure you can find the wires in the kick panel there also. Best thing to do is when you have the door panels off to remove the factory speakers is to see what wires colors are the factory ones then look for those wires inside the kick panels. Good luck and I hope it all works out for you.

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post #5 of 53 Old 04-12-2009, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Question More questions - long post with lots of pics

I hope the following pictures will help people on this thread and help me to get the answers i need to finish my replacement of my door speakers!

So i took apart the door and popped out the stock speaker. it weighs like .1 lbs and looks very cheap in general. i was confused at first because it wasnt screwed in. it had to be popped/pried off from the top, bottom and sides.

here is a look at the door speaker and what i was goign to be replacing it with.


unfortunately, there was no way my speaker could fit into the door without one of those adapters as well.

First question, i am just too lazy to find this myself, but what is the polarity on these wires? one is green/yellow, and the other one is gray. I will probably need to know the same for the component speakers as well should i use those wires as well.



So i need to buy one of those speaker adapters from crutchfield i believe to fit in the door, but i am also concerned now that my speaker still won't fit into the door without some more modifications, see below.






notice how the oem speaker fits into the cutout in the door panel, but my speakers won't fit at all.

is this something i have to worry about even if i get a speaker adapter from cruchfield? will i have to cut the inside part of the door to fit the new speakers in?


Last but certainly not least, I am concerned with how i am going to be wiring up my crossover, tweet, and door speaker.

if you notice in this picture below, there is a tube goes from the door to the dashboard inside the car that contains the wireharness for the door speaker, and what i am assuming to be window, power doors, and side mirror controls.



To Calamity Coyote, you said the following
Quote:
While I had the passenger side panel off for the speaker, I tapped in to the right speaker wire there. Ran a new wire from there inside the cabin. At the same time, ran a second wire. The wire that was connected to the factory wire went to the crossover input. The second wire went to the new speaker from the crossover mid output.
Did you find out what wires were connected to the harness belonged to the door speakers and then splice them from inside the dash and mount them to your crossover? or did you tap into the speaker wire from inside the door, then route the entire speaker back into the dash? if so, how did you do this, because there is little room in that tube to route wires back into the dash!!

i am really hoping that you did not have to drill a new hole.


Below is an image of the wires and tubes inside the dash, after removing the passenger storage compartment.



Calamity said:
Quote:
I then ran a third wire up to the tweeter from the high output of the crossover.
can you point out to me which wire goes up to the crossover? I am sure the wire toward the bottom of that picture coming from the tube is coming from the door. i don't see how that could be attached to the crossover, unless there it also splits upwards into inside the dash as well.

I think there may be enough space to mount the crossover behind the storage compartment, correct me if i'm wrong though.

To mount the tweeter component in the dash, do i pop the speaker grille off from the top of the dashboard ? I am hoping that it fits in that area, if not, i will just glue my tweeter on top of the stock location.



Thanks for everyone's help btw

2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
2004 Honda Accord EX i4 AT 180K


2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold
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post #6 of 53 Old 04-14-2009, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
2004 Honda Accord EX i4 AT 180K


2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold
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post #7 of 53 Old 04-14-2009, 12:51 PM
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Here is the wiring diagram:

20 pin connector, 1-10 across top of harness, 11-20 across bottom of harness

A01: Yellow/Green: Radio Switch
A02: Yellow/Red: ACC (Main stereo power supply)
A03: Green/Red: Radio Remote Switch
A04: Red/White: (Security Input)
A05: Pink: Right Rear Speaker +
A06: Blue/White: Left Rear Speaker +
A07: Green/Yellow: Front Passenger's Door Speaker +, Right Tweeter +
A08: Green/Black: Driver Door Speaker +, Left Tweeter +

A09: Red/Black: Lights-on Signal
A10: White/Green: Constant Power

A11: Brown: Radio Remote Switch Ground
A12: Not Used
A13: Not Used
A14: Not Used
A15: Blue/Yellow: Right Rear Speaker -
A16: Blue/Black: Left Rear Speaker -
A17: Gray: Front Passenger Door Speaker -, Right Tweeter -
A18: Light Green: Driver Door Speaker -, Left Tweeter -

A19: Red: Dash Lights Brightness Controller
A20: Black: Ground

With Navigation Models:
A12: Green: Navigation Unit (RG GND)
A13: White/Green: Navigation Unit (RG L+)

This is for the standard audio unit in the Accords with automatic transmission. The 6-speed manual Accords with the Premium Audio System are wired differently for the front speakers since they use a separate discrete crossover for the tweeters. The tweeters in the standard audio unit are just tapped off the front speakers using the same color wires. You might be able to use the existing wiring if you can find the spot where the tweeters branch off the existing door speaker wiring. Find that location to install the aftermarket crossover. If not, run new wires to tweeters.
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post #8 of 53 Old 04-15-2009, 04:47 PM
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Not to butt in, but thought you might want to consider some sound dampening while you have the door covers off. Search on it to see multiple threads. This product gets pretty good reviews and I am considering it.
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post #9 of 53 Old 04-16-2009, 02:10 AM
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Wow, lots of questions. Let's see if we can answer a few.

First off, yes the factory speaker just pops in. As you have found out, you simply pry it out. Make sure you remove that clip as well that looks to still be in the door. You do not need any adapter. However, you will need to do a little trim on the door. When I got my speakers, it came with a little plastic "ring" spacer. I used this as a template to mark the door so I knew how much I needed to cut out. Then using a pair of tin snips I simply cut it out. Install the new speakers with new screws. I recommend using sheet rock screws with a drill motor as they are easier to make new holes with through the metal. Use caution not to put your drill through the speaker. You do not need to modify the door panel itself. It will just sit over the top of the speaker and will not effect it at all. The first picture attached is of the new speaker in my door.

Second: No new holes were needed to be drilled for the wires. On the passenger side, you can run them through the rubber tube with a little effort. However, since the drivers side also has a plastic plug in the tube, it is more difficult to do this. For it, I would recommend finding the wires inside the car at the kick panel and cut and splice in to them there. You can do this on the passenger side as well if you don't want to run new wires through the door. I didn't discover the plastic plug at first since I started with the passenger side or else I would of done them the same. I ran new wires in and out of the door on the passenger side. Both crossovers were installed inside the cabin. Taping in to the factory wires for the door speakers, I connected them to the crossover for input. I then ran new wires to the door speakers. I also ran new wires up to the tweeter locations. I did not use the factory wires for the tweeters. Yes the grill for the tweeters just pop out. They have a metal spring clip on them that usually falls off when you pull them up. Not to worry. These usually fall through the dash. Maybe not right away, but will do so in a day or two. You can then reuse them. The mounting of the tweeter itself will need to be done using new screws as well since the factory ones also just pop out like the doors. The second picture is of a quick diagram I did to explain what I am talking about. Hope it helps.

As hillstones provided for you, the color codes for the speakers are as follows:

Drivers side + : Green with Black stripe.
Drivers side - : Light Green.

Passenger side + : Green with Yellow stripe.
Passenger side - : Gray.

The tweeters are of the same color codes as the door speakers but like I said, you DO NOT use the factory tweeter wires. Run new ones from them to your new crossover.

Hope this answers your remaining questions. Let us know how it goes or if you have further questions.

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Mods:Fog Lights-front & rear TL sway bar-V6 MT shock tower bar-AEM V2-Magnaflow cat-back-Window & Moon visors-Kaminari Lip Kit-Bug Shield-CUSCO Type II TSX Lower brace-Enkei EV5 wheels-Trans Cooler
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post #10 of 53 Old 04-16-2009, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for both of yoru help!!! everything is alot clearer now. i need to get some tin snips and cut away some of the door.

to fahertyps: I am going to be dynamatting the area where the speaker will be making direct contact w/ the door.

I've heard mixed reviews at best about the effects of dampening the entire door, and at worst i've heard that people did it wrong and water leaked into the door. I won't have time to do anything for another two weeks, so i'll check out the website and see if i should pick any of it up. i will make sure i have all the tools i need ready to go.

2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
2004 Honda Accord EX i4 AT 180K


2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold
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post #11 of 53 Old 04-17-2009, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Tweeters

I had time today to pop out the stock tweeter and got to see how run the wire from the tweeter down to the crossover, which i think will be mounted under the dash.

The tweeter i'm replacing it with won't be able to fit into the location where the stock is so i am going to be mounting it on top. I drilled a small hole into the stock grill to be able to fish the speaker wire from my new tweet through and then under the dashboard.






2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
2004 Honda Accord EX i4 AT 180K


2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold
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post #12 of 53 Old 04-17-2009, 07:59 PM
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You still should have been able to mount that aftermarket tweeter in the dash. The factory tweet just clips on to the grill. Simply remove it. Your new tweet should of came with different mounting options. I simply added a metal strap to mine, bent them around the tweet and left a tab to screw in to some plastic in the dash. I believe I trimmed out the extra plastic on the grill where the factory one set to allow it to sit over the new one easily.

2003 Accord EX Sedan V6 Auto NAVI (Noble Green Pearl)
Mods:Fog Lights-front & rear TL sway bar-V6 MT shock tower bar-AEM V2-Magnaflow cat-back-Window & Moon visors-Kaminari Lip Kit-Bug Shield-CUSCO Type II TSX Lower brace-Enkei EV5 wheels-Trans Cooler
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post #13 of 53 Old 04-17-2009, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calamity Coyote View Post
You still should have been able to mount that aftermarket tweeter in the dash. The factory tweet just clips on to the grill. Simply remove it. Your new tweet should of came with different mounting options. I simply added a metal strap to mine, bent them around the tweet and left a tab to screw in to some plastic in the dash. I believe I trimmed out the extra plastic on the grill where the factory one set to allow it to sit over the new one easily.
The tweeters i have unfortunately were floor models at tweeter when they went out of business, so it doesn't come w/ any other mounting options besides what's there. I removed the stock tweeter, but asides from glueing the tweeter from the top to underneath the grille there's no way to get it to stay there. I am also considering drilling a bigger hole to fit the entire tweeter into the grille.

2014 Lexus IS350 FSport RWD w/ VGRS 35K Miles

Other Cars that i maintain

2007 Lexus RX350 120K miles
2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 AT 80K
2004 Honda Accord EX i4 AT 180K


2007 Accord Coupe EX-L auto I4 - 130k miles Sold
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post #14 of 53 Old 04-18-2009, 12:00 AM
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How did you mount it to the grill? You can pick up something called a radio backstrap at Autozone. Should only be a couple of bucks. Basically it's just a piece of metal with holes in it. Typically it's used to secure an aftermarket radio in the dash. However, it is very usefull for other applications. Take this strap and bend it to form a squared off "U" shape big enough for the tweeter to fit in. Then bend the ends down to have a tab on both sides of the tweeter. You now have a mount to hold it in the dash. Simply screw it in to the dash. This will give you a much cleaner looking install.

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post #15 of 53 Old 04-23-2009, 05:48 AM
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Gents, if I was considering using a 3-way or 2-way speaker like this (Boston Acoustics S65RC) to replace the factory door ones, do you suggests disconnecting the factory tweeters?

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