Replacing the factory subwoofer and speakers (8th Gen) - Page 2 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #16 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 04:01 AM
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well the w3's traditionally take a max of about 350 to 400 watts max which is reasonable for the stock system remember that the oem amp is only putting out about 150 MAX power so although the amp will push it, its still wayyy wayyy underpowered... putting the w-7 would be like cutting your law with a nail clipper vs. a weed whacker... Being that I have had and sold JL in the past as an official dealer.. I think the w3 is still overkill... Id be quicker to recommend the w1 series a little less money and closer to matching the power remember this one aspect when you turn up the system( like 75 percent, anything higher is "trying to push the amp harder" it may get louder but the efficiency of the power degrades... degrading quality in power will blow your speakers faster than over-powering them...dirty power over heats the coils and causes the voice coil to burn up hence why youll see guys put 1000 watts to a 750 watt speaker and play them alllllll day long without blowing... distortion is a dirty thing....
and BTW Manville at JL does NOT recommend to run these subs Infinite Baffle they are not efficient as free air subs


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post #17 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieJam1AIM View Post
well the w3's traditionally take a max of about 350 to 400 watts max which is reasonable for the stock system remember that the oem amp is only putting out about 150 MAX power so although the amp will push it, its still wayyy wayyy underpowered... putting the w-7 would be like cutting your law with a nail clipper vs. a weed whacker... Being that I have had and sold JL in the past as an official dealer.. I think the w3 is still overkill... Id be quicker to recommend the w1 series a little less money and closer to matching the power remember this one aspect when you turn up the system( like 75 percent, anything higher is "trying to push the amp harder" it may get louder but the efficiency of the power degrades... degrading quality in power will blow your speakers faster than over-powering them...dirty power over heats the coils and causes the voice coil to burn up hence why youll see guys put 1000 watts to a 750 watt speaker and play them alllllll day long without blowing... distortion is a dirty thing....
and BTW Manville at JL does NOT recommend to run these subs Infinite Baffle they are not efficient as free air subs
I'd have to agree w/every word of this.

I see dynamat and all I can think about is shredded hands...OUCH! Peel, stick, repeat...

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post #18 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvolNtent View Post
I'd have to agree w/every word of this.

I see dynamat and all I can think about is shredded hands...OUCH! Peel, stick, repeat...
<-----------250 Sq Ft of Accumat extreme in my 8th gen. Not a single cut on my hands... LOL its called a razor knife, gloves and a rubber accumat / wall paper roller and for the hard to get to spaces LMAO a table and tea spoon ( handle in the palm fingers in the spoon, press down and youre good..... for those considering doing damping... Im the first to tell you i've had both accumat from scosche and dynamat extreme... (been sponsored by both) and whats interesting is the accumat is a little thicker and does the job as well and maybe even a little better than dyna- and is a little cheaper... if you are considering damping make sure you look at the thickness when comparing... there are . 46 Mil . 65 mil and .23 mil products... make sure you get the thickest one to eliminate having to do layer over layer over layer over layer...... having done both I can say Accumat seems to be the better bang for the buck... Fat mat is Ok but have heard mixed reviews from the pros about it..... a bulk pack will average between 125 to 200 +/- shipping depending on where you get it... prepare on the average for a single layer all over the 8th gen trunk, pit, floordoors side quarter panels etc..
FOOTNOTE!!!!!
adding damping increases the density meaning the panel is stronger, and will actually keep alot of those mini pin and micro dents from occuring...

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post #19 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 04:55 AM
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[QUOTE=JamieJam1AIM;315595FOOTNOTE!!!!!
adding damping increases the density meaning the panel is stronger, and will actually keep alot of those mini pin and micro dents from occuring... [/QUOTE]

What are mini pin and micro dents? What is causing them?

2008 Accord Coupe EX-L 5 speed w/o Navi
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Alpine IVA-W505
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JBL GTO627 6-1/2" 2-ways (rear deck)
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Alpine MRP-M450 amp pushing a
Kicker TCVT122 12" sub
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post #20 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 05:00 AM
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door dings little rock hits stuff like that.... you know, lol those little annoying dents that drive you friggen nuts!!!... lol

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post #21 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 05:07 AM
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oh ok. i thought you were talking about the rear deck! I see what you were saying now.

2008 Accord Coupe EX-L 5 speed w/o Navi
Alabaster Silver Metalic
20% Tint all around
4300K HID Headlights
Alpine IVA-W505
Alpine MRP-F300 4-Channel amp pushing
JBL GTO627 6-1/2" 2-ways (rear deck)
JBL GTO607C 6-1/2" (fronts)
Alpine MRP-M450 amp pushing a
Kicker TCVT122 12" sub
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post #22 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 05:23 AM
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JamieJam1AIM- I have a roller and razor and all, but still wash up when I'm done and find those cuts everywhere. Now the teaspoon...!!! This is new to me but sounds perfect for getting those creases down. I'm so picky. When I'm done w/my car I want the deadening to look textbook perfect so this will deffinately give me an edge.

Were you not recommending second skin to me on another thread? I'm thinking of wiring and deadening the car in the next couple of weeks and someone brought them up. I have been looking into them as they are cheaper and seems like an identicle product but thicker. Let me know any thoughts. PM me so as to not hijack this thread if you want. Thanks
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post #23 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvolNtent View Post
JamieJam1AIM- I have a roller and razor and all, but still wash up when I'm done and find those cuts everywhere. Now the teaspoon...!!! This is new to me but sounds perfect for getting those creases down. I'm so picky. When I'm done w/my car I want the deadening to look textbook perfect so this will deffinately give me an edge.

Were you not recommending second skin to me on another thread? I'm thinking of wiring and deadening the car in the next couple of weeks and someone brought them up. I have been looking into them as they are cheaper and seems like an identicle product but thicker. Let me know any thoughts. PM me so as to not hijack this thread if you want. Thanks
not familliar with 2nd skin.... couldn't tell you....... again Id say accumat or dynamat but D mat will be a little more expensive due to the name brand....

"The Black Widow Accord" SOLD!!!!!!
"Team Hybrids" Hybrid Audio Technologies & JL Audio Sponsored Sound Quality Competitor.


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2011 IASCA Amateur Sound Quality, (RUNNER UP)"North American Championships"
IASCA 2012-13 Spring Break Nationals SQC Amateur Champion
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post #24 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 07:12 AM
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I want to do something like this. I want as much bass/sound as possible while still using the factory locations. I do not mind have the hole bored out to accommodate a larger woofer. I also wouldn't mine running a 1000-1500 watt D class amp to it.

I have always been a fan of Memphis...

Wonder what a nice setup would cost me without going overboard
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post #25 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a few pics from inside the trunk and of it mostly back together. In the next day or two, I will post a thread on how to remove the trunk liner. The sub is admittedly too nice for this application and i am sure it is highly underpowered, but it sounds pretty good to me. This way, when I install amps it will sound even better.
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post #26 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 06:16 PM
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Can you also throw some pics from the inside of the rear shelf with the new speakers?

Thanks

------------------------------------------
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post #27 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 06:21 PM
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post #28 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 06:23 PM
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All put back together is what I meant.

------------------------------------------
2009 Mystic Green EX-L V6 sedan w/Navi

Las Vegas, NV

Follow me twitter.com/mmmii

Current Mods: 8% Tint - Kensington LiquidAUX for iPhone - OEM Splash Guards - Viper 7501 Alarm/Remote Start w/tilt and glass breakage sensor, windows up/down via remote - Decklid Spoiler - OEM Rearview Camera - Slotted/Dimpled Performance Rotors - Motegi 18"s - Toyo Proxes 4 (240/45/18)

Future Mods: Interior Illumination - Fosgate Sub(s) - Fosgate amp
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post #29 of 47 Old 10-24-2008, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMMII View Post
All put back together is what I meant.
It's going to look exactly the same as it did before he changed the speakers.

2008 Accord Coupe EX-L 5 speed w/o Navi
Alabaster Silver Metalic
20% Tint all around
4300K HID Headlights
Alpine IVA-W505
Alpine MRP-F300 4-Channel amp pushing
JBL GTO627 6-1/2" 2-ways (rear deck)
JBL GTO607C 6-1/2" (fronts)
Alpine MRP-M450 amp pushing a
Kicker TCVT122 12" sub
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post #30 of 47 Old 10-25-2008, 06:55 AM
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Asher:

Great job and post. Question: You mentioned that you changed out the speakers too. Which speakers did you change and what did you change them to (model #..please)? Did you also change out the tweeters and did they all just drop-in or did you have to hog out some metal?

I assume the power is still all OEM.

Thx
FH


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