Caliper slide pin stuck - !! - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 41 Old 12-22-2012, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Caliper slide pin stuck - !!

Hey guys,

Was doing a routine front brake pad replacement today and while the driver's side went smooth, the passenger side gave me a lot of trouble. I normally only take out the bottom bolt to swing the bracket upwards, remove the pads, clean, lube, and replace. Unfortunately this bolt/slide would not come out. I resorted to hammering on the socket wrench and while the bolt did turn a bit at first, progress halted after maybe a 1/4" travel.

I proceeded to unbolt the brake line, remove the top slide and swing the bracket the other way. Fair enough, but when I went to tighten the slide on the bottom when I was done, it would not budge in either direction.

Any advice? Is it possible to replace this piece without replacing the entire caliper? I have used the search and I'm not sure how I could use any penetrating spray as the bolt is about 4-5" long with the threads on the far end, but I am open to suggestions.

As a side note, we are getting a significant crunching noise from the front right side of the car when going over bumps. I haven't heard a noise like this before and it's getting a bit worse, any ideas?

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post #2 of 41 Old 12-22-2012, 08:02 PM
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You have to heat the caliper to get the pin out. I have a thread with the exact same problem a few years ago.

Found it.

rear caliper seized - Gen 6 (calling fredsvt! )


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post #3 of 41 Old 12-22-2012, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply sodaks2k.

Initially I was filled with hope by your reply but now I'm a bit worried after reading through the thread. Did you just heat up the side of bolt which is on the inside or the outside part (side with threads or side with bolt head)? And where would you spray the grease penetrating spray?

Thanks again, I'm a bit worried, the car seems to brake fine but your experience with this problem seemed to cause you some alarm and this is the gf's car, so I want to make sure it's safe for her.
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post #4 of 41 Old 12-22-2012, 08:51 PM
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I had the same problem and didn't have a good way to heat the pin/bracket, so I ended up buying a new bracket, pin, and boot. It was around $40 for everything.
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post #5 of 41 Old 12-22-2012, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eck View Post
I had the same problem and didn't have a good way to heat the pin/bracket, so I ended up buying a new bracket, pin, and boot. It was around $40 for everything.
I'm not against this idea either. was it relatively easy to change out the bracket with the pin being stuck? I see they have replacement kits at a variety of parts stores for this piece but did you go the dealership route?
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post #6 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6eHonda View Post
Initially I was filled with hope by your reply but now I'm a bit worried after reading through the thread. Did you just heat up the side of bolt which is on the inside or the outside part (side with threads or side with bolt head)? And where would you spray the grease penetrating spray?
You heat the bracket, not the pin. It's helpful to have a second person or a vice to hold the bracket. While heating the bracket you want to try to move the pin, otherwise you may get the bracket too hot and the pin may come out (much) faster than is safe. I sprayed the grease where the pin and the bracket meet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6eHonda View Post
I'm not against this idea either. was it relatively easy to change out the bracket with the pin being stuck?
You're replacing the bracket AND the pin so you can toss the bracket/pin you have now. There's no need for it.

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Originally Posted by 6eHonda View Post
I see they have replacement kits at a variety of parts stores for this piece but did you go the dealership route?
I'm having a hard time find an OEM parts store online that lists the bracket part # separately.


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post #7 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 05:58 AM
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I also had a stuck pin and managed to work it loose by hammering on a wrench each way (loosen & tighten). I did replace the pin with a new one after it came out. The pin corrodes and sticks inside the caliper, not in the threaded area in the bracket.
Make sure the rubber boot is properly seated to keep out water when you reinstall the pin.
This would be a good time to remove all the slide pins and relube them. I used Sil-glyde.

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post #8 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaks2k View Post
You heat the bracket, not the pin. It's helpful to have a second person or a vice to hold the bracket. While heating the bracket you want to try to move the pin, otherwise you may get the bracket too hot and the pin may come out (much) faster than is safe. I sprayed the grease where the pin and the bracket meet.



You're replacing the bracket AND the pin so you can toss the bracket/pin you have now. There's no need for it.



I'm having a hard time find an OEM parts store online that lists the bracket part # separately.

Thanks for all of your help. I will probably buy the bracket just in case I don't have any luck and then return it if I am able to successfully remove the pin using your suggestions.


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Originally Posted by nehonda View Post
I also had a stuck pin and managed to work it loose by hammering on a wrench each way (loosen & tighten). I did replace the pin with a new one after it came out. The pin corrodes and sticks inside the caliper, not in the threaded area in the bracket.
Make sure the rubber boot is properly seated to keep out water when you reinstall the pin.
This would be a good time to remove all the slide pins and relube them. I used Sil-glyde.
I don't think I have managed to get the pin past the threads at this point and stopped as I was afraid I was going to break the head of the pin using the amount of torque which was being applied. However, if I am going to have the bracket with me anyway I might try more of this brute force method along with some liquid wrench. Either way, you're definitely right about needing to lubricate the pins - I will definitely pick up some Sil-glyde or something similar. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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post #9 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 6eHonda View Post
I don't think I have managed to get the pin past the threads at this point
There are no threads holding the pin in. It wouldn't be able to float then.

rear caliper seized - Gen 6 (calling fredsvt! )

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post #10 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaks2k View Post
There are no threads holding the pin in.
?

You sure? I'm pretty sure they had some threads, or at least they came out with a turning action.. I can try hammering instead of spinning if that's the case...
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post #11 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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You kind of just blew my mind. I mean now that I think about it, I do not distinctly remember threads but the bolts (the rest of them) came out when I turned them.
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post #12 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaks2k View Post
There are no threads holding the pin in. It wouldn't be able to float then.

rear caliper seized - Gen 6 (calling fredsvt! )
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6eHonda View Post
?

You sure? I'm pretty sure they had some threads, or at least they came out with a turning action.. I can try hammering instead of spinning if that's the case...
The slider pins have no external threads as sodaks2K correctly identified, the only thread is internal to the slider pins which allows the caliper to be secured to the slider pins through the bolts.

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post #13 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6eHonda View Post
I'm not against this idea either. was it relatively easy to change out the bracket with the pin being stuck? I see they have replacement kits at a variety of parts stores for this piece but did you go the dealership route?
The pin being stuck doesn't affect changing the bracket. The bracket is held on by two bolts -- it's super easy to change out. I bought the parts separately from local parts stores. One store had the bracket in stock, while another had the pin and boot in stock.
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post #14 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Aviography View Post
The slider pins have no external threads as sodaks2K correctly identified, the only thread is internal to the slider pins which allows the caliper to be secured to the slider pins through the bolts.
I guess I'm having a hard time understanding what you mean by this: "The only thread is internal to the slider pins". I did find a picture, it seems like there are some threads at the end closest to the bolt of the pin/slider/bolt. I'm not trying to argue but I wonder if I'm calling something a slide pin incorrectly, because the parts I'm referring to are #14 and #13 in this photo:



Maybe I got it past the threaded section and just need to beat it outwards with a hammer at this point. I will be trying again in the next day or two.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eck View Post
The pin being stuck doesn't affect changing the bracket. The bracket is held on by two bolts -- it's super easy to change out. I bought the parts separately from local parts stores. One store had the bracket in stock, while another had the pin and boot in stock.
Thanks bud. I will definitely go this route as well if replacing the pin is not possible. Sourcing the part did seem a little tricky for me as well, but I think I can find it if I call around. Originally I was worried I'd need to buy the whole caliper.

Thanks for all the help guys. The caliper is getting very hot right now. I actually wet my finger before testing it after a drive only to hear it sizzle. Needless to say, I need to figure this one out ASAP and the help is appreciated even more so as a result of this urgency.
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post #15 of 41 Old 12-23-2012, 07:53 PM
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You're correct that #13 and #14 are the sliding pins. As others have said, they aren't threaded on the outside. The pins are hollow, and the inside does have threads. The bolts that hold the caliper in place screw into the pins.

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