Transmission selonoid location and question. - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission selonoid location and question.

Alright, if I start my car on a cold start I can drive it around for about five minutes. Shifts fine and all. Then all of sudden it just revs in place, no matter if I am in 1,2,3,4 and reverse. I cleaned out one of the solenoids which I believe is called the lock up solenoid. Its facing the front of the transmission towards the bottom. Its two solenoids together. That really didn't solve my case. So I did more research and I read up that one of the solenoids is most def causing my problems and symptoms. My question is, is this is the solenoid on the passenger side kinda under the battery? It looks just like the lock up solenoid but has to different color wires running to it. What is that solenoid called and is there an easy way to access it?

The most recent thing I did is change the thermostat. When I replaced it I didn't get the gasket aligned to well and it leaks a little but I don't over heat at all. Could this be stopping my tranny from going if the ECU thinks the thermostat isn't working correctly?

I really hope someone can help out. Thanks!

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post #2 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 08:33 AM
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Just cleaning the solenoid screens will only be a temporary fix; you need to look into rebuilding the transmission.

Also, putting the trim/ engine/ year etc. in your signature would help.


-03 Honda Accord EX V6
-Debadged-17mm sway bar-UR crank pulley-AEM CAI
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I know its a temp fix. A fix thatll get me to work instead of riding my bike. Its a 98 Acura CL V4 F23. Same as an accord. Automatic of course.

Btw, how do I set a signature? For future reference.
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 09:02 AM
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Here is a link to the parts id and location for the Accord auto transmission.


If you are still using the old Honda Z1 ATF, you might extend your transmission life a litte by switching to something better like Valvoline Maxlife or Redline D4. I doubt cleaning or changing the solenoids will help for long.

2000 Accord SE I4 F23A1 Auto - Sold miles & 10 years ownership
1998 Accord LX I4 F23A1 5 speed - sons DD in DC
1987 Accord LX 5 spd Owned for 17 years sold
1986 Accord LX Auto Totaled miles
1983 Accord LX 5 spd My Second Accord traded in
1978 Accord LX 5 spd My First Accord sold 100k
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Well... Thanks a lot but I'm still wondering what the solenoid that looks like the lock up solenoid is called.
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Is it the Linear Solenoid? Its kinda hard to see the diagram but I think that's it, lol. Thanks for that diagram.
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post #7 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 09:24 AM
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Ilust. number 8 on the diagram is the converter lock-up solenoid assy.
Ilust. number 6 on the diagram is the pressure control (linear) solenoid assy.

2000 Accord SE I4 F23A1 Auto - Sold miles & 10 years ownership
1998 Accord LX I4 F23A1 5 speed - sons DD in DC
1987 Accord LX 5 spd Owned for 17 years sold
1986 Accord LX Auto Totaled miles
1983 Accord LX 5 spd My Second Accord traded in
1978 Accord LX 5 spd My First Accord sold 100k
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post #8 of 19 Old 05-21-2011, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you man, well I hope this will temp fix my problem. Does it seem like this could be the issue? Considering I can drive the car when it first starts then it just falls out of gear and revs?
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post #9 of 19 Old 05-22-2011, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, cleaned everything out and still no luck. I do notice this though, when I turn my key to acc only my D4 light will come on and back off before I even crank the car over. Could this be the TCU telling me there is an error? Because in this video the D4 light doesn't come on.

[Same as a 6TH Gen Accord.]
1998 Acura CL, 2.3 A/T.
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post #10 of 19 Old 05-22-2011, 09:56 AM
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Usually if it detects a major problem it will flash the D4 light.

The problem is that there are more of those stupid metal screens deep inside the transmission, so if it does help, it only helps for about a month at best.

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-Debadged-17mm sway bar-UR crank pulley-AEM CAI
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-22-2011, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah the thing about that, when I cleaned my screens out there was nothing on them, not even clogged. MAN! This is pissing me off. How can I get the codes off the TCU?

[Same as a 6TH Gen Accord.]
1998 Acura CL, 2.3 A/T.
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-22-2011, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnalyzeFaith View Post
Yeah the thing about that, when I cleaned my screens out there was nothing on them, not even clogged. MAN! This is pissing me off. How can I get the codes off the TCU?
That's the thing, I know that for a major fault the D4 light will flash repeatedly, not just turn on (so I can't say for certain that you indeed have a fault detected). I believe (not sure, don't quote me) you need a Honda scanner for the code, but even if it did find a code, it probably wouldn't tell you anything besides what you already knew.

I went through a similar situation with our 98 odyssey. Tranny was slipping, cleaned the (clogged) screens, and then after about a month it acted up again. Thinking I would go clean the screens again, they were totally clean.

Sorry, but it's time to start looking at a permanent solution.

-03 Honda Accord EX V6
-Debadged-17mm sway bar-UR crank pulley-AEM CAI
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-22-2011, 06:26 PM
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The transmission codes are part of the powertrain ECM so those codes will show up on a standard code reader or parts store code scan. Post up the codes if you find any.
The D4 light normally comes on for a second or two when you turn the igniton to ON (bulb test). The D4 light on my car does the same thing. If the D4 light blinks or stays on continously then it is indicating a transmission problem.
Your problem sounds like you are losing hydraulic pressure when the transmission warms up. Probably not much you can do to fix it without pulling the transmission. I would suggest not trying to rebuild your old transmission as a clutch rebuild kit may not have all parts to fix your problem. A totally different "rebuilt" transmission might be your best choice.

2000 Accord SE I4 F23A1 Auto - Sold miles & 10 years ownership
1998 Accord LX I4 F23A1 5 speed - sons DD in DC
1987 Accord LX 5 spd Owned for 17 years sold
1986 Accord LX Auto Totaled miles
1983 Accord LX 5 spd My Second Accord traded in
1978 Accord LX 5 spd My First Accord sold 100k
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post #14 of 19 Old 06-27-2011, 10:32 AM
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Ive beel looking in the forums for a solution to my trans problem. Mine slips a little between 1st and 2nd. It also has a really hard down sihft when i am almost stopped at a stop sign or light. There are no codes showing and the D4 light does not flash or anything. I know this gen was bad for trans problems, but does anyone know if there is anything i can do to put off the rebuild and buy some time? I just did the atf change and ran some sea foam trans tune through before draining. That made not change in it. Any ideas?
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post #15 of 19 Old 10-06-2013, 11:22 AM
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i had a couple of diagnostics on my 2000 accord and was told i need a new transmission. the problem is that the car revs after a while and you can hear a jolt when it shifts gears. some times i slows down and no matter how much you press the accelerator the car doesnt go any faster! recently, a mechanic told me that all i need to do is replace the solenoid. do you think this will fix the problem or just a temporary fix?

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