98 Accord Coupe Ex V6 belt change - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 2 Old 01-12-2018, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Cool 98 Accord Coupe Ex V6 belt change

I was late on 120000 mi maintenance. I decided to start collecting all that I considered needed as well as parts that would be convenient while doing the work to upgrade. One item I purchased was Haynes repair guide. I also had printed the SM Accord V6 service manual. I would not recommend using multiple repair guides. I found many conflicting procedures. None tell you that the Crank Bolt has 1300 lbs. or more to remove. I use 24 inch extension, 18 inch extension, 26 inch breaker bar with a Heavy deep impact socket, two large blocks of wood, jack stand, 12 feet of 3 inch steel pipe, propane torch. After I applied my 260 pound weight in to it I thought for sure I cracked my extension or socket. The bold cracked free. I then read the Haynes procedure and removed the Harmonic Balancer. It said to thread the crank bolt back in crnk and insure that cam pulleys and crankshaft gear wear on mark. Unfortunately for me it said nothing about the key that was attacked to the balancer when I pulled it out. When I put the bolt back I turned it clockwise with no success of lining pulleys but caused my key alignment off. I was able to get the key in and line up the cams and crank. I removed all necessary to the task. Replacing the water pump, tensioner, and pulleys. I also noticed my passage engine mount was cracked and replaced that too. I replaced plugs and wires, rotor and cap, map sensor, timing belt and serpentine belts. I lined everything up while installing the belt which I did counter clockwise as Honda suggested Haynes suggest different. Last I released the tensioner. I noticed my crank was on mark on the shaft first notch. the crank gears were off at 11 o'clock. I couldn't find any info on this issue so I completed the install. I then reset my codes by removing fuse. I then attached my scanner and turned on the ignition running scan. no codes yet hadn't started car. So I turn the key and it starts right away idles high and I hear metal I'm thinking oh (VIOLENT AND CONTINUOUS BOUTS OF EXPLOSIVE DIARRHEA LEADING TO DEHYDRATION, ORGAN FAILURE, HOSPITALIZATION, FAILED HEROIC MEASURES, DEATH, LAWSUITS, AND YOUTUBE TRIBUTE VIDEOS) and I grabbed my Honda Coolant and poured into the radiator immediately ending the racket fro the water pump wheel. I let it run for as few minutes then scanned once more. No errors . I still have not putt the tires back due to oil change and catalytic convertor replacement from Mudflow CA cert . I am crossing my fingers that test drive will go well with no overheat do to engine damage. 1 more think I turned the crank 4 full revolutions of the cams gears to ensure my belt was on secure and all well . I did have difficulty making it go through the gears I assumed this was due to new belts and plugs so I proceeded. Prior to doing this work my car was staling after start and idling low. it would only stop after I drove for while then idle was on cue. if not it would stall every time at low idle. It sounded a hell of a lot better this time I cranked it up however we will see> I ll keep you posted

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Last edited by RickBlaine; 01-12-2018 at 12:08 PM. Reason: SWEARING
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post #2 of 2 Old 01-12-2018, 12:32 PM
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Whatever that mess was in that paragraph, I hope you find a result in this, by finding the problematic part that is causing the no crack at all, as it might be the starter....
RickBlaine please make this gigantic paragraph into multiple easy to read paragraphs.



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Mine:
Lucky- 1999 Honda Accord LX 2.3L 4AT- 112K (SSM)

Parents:
Pato- 2016 Nissan Rogue SL 2.5L CVT- 42k (ABM)
Lelu 2.0- 2017 Acura MDX w/ Tech 3.5L 9AT-- 2100 miles (BCP)

Long gone:
Lelu- 2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L w/navi & res 3.5L- 151k (SGM)(traded-in)
2004 Hyundia Elentra Hatchback GLS- Idk miles (Silver) totaled
datechbpss101 is online now
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