The always lovely p1457 code. - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 37 Old 05-19-2009, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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The always lovely p1457 code.

Hi, ok this morning I got a p1457 code after warm up. I understand that
p1456 is gas cap but hey, I tried that first. I am going on my second drive cycle since resetting the code but I am preparing for the worst.

Now, I have spoken with 2 shops here in MA, one says lets replace solenoids first then valves then canister if nec. etc...The other says always replace the whole system at once. Now which is the best way?

Also, am I risking frying the ECM if I drive it for like a week or two with CEL on or is there a safe mode? Is the solenoid the only part that can fry the ECM? Should I have that looked at first? (You can see my concern)

I called the dealer and there is not a complete package you can buy for this EVAP canister. All the parts are separate. Valves, Canister, Solenoids etc...

I am leaning toward the trial and error way.

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post #2 of 37 Old 05-19-2009, 02:05 PM
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First off, who told you you're going to fry the ECM? The only thing that code means is that there's a leak. Don't worry about the ECM. Driving it around probably just means you're going to lose efficiency.

The two main culprits are the Vent Control Valve & the 2 Way Bypass Valve. Replace those solenoids and see where that gets you. Don't listen to the shop that wants to change out your whole system.


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post #3 of 37 Old 05-19-2009, 05:07 PM
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Yes it means a leak in the control side of the evap system, BUT, it also usually means that the canister vent shut valve has taken a dump.

It's a normally open valve and is electrically closed to test the system. The windings usually open and it stops working.
Since it's under the car, it can get covered in salt, muck, etc. The bad part is, if the solenoid shorts, there is NO overcurrent protection in the PCM. So, then it fries the driver in the PCM.

All you can do at this point is get a hold of a scanner with bi-directional controls to operate the solenoid, it should click LOUDLY when told to by the scanner. If it doesn't you need to check for 12v in and then ground when the PCM grounds it. Hopefully it will ground when told to.

If it doesn't ground it, well, the PCM is dead. If it does, you can replace the solenoid and be okay.

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post #4 of 37 Old 05-19-2009, 06:49 PM
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Fredsvt,
Not to change the subject but what is a good bi-directional scanner? How much are they? Do you think it's worthwhile for those of us who plan on keeping our cars for a long time? RTV55

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post #5 of 37 Old 05-20-2009, 04:00 PM
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RTV55:

Snap-On and Mac both offer a really nice scanner unit. They will cost you in the $140 range. They provide error event "freeze" data. AutoZone also offers a decent unit which costs (about) $120.
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post #6 of 37 Old 05-20-2009, 06:41 PM
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Robert,
Do you know if they are bi-directional? Some of the more expensive ones can actually test components on your car like solenoids, etc. RTV55

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post #7 of 37 Old 05-21-2009, 01:21 PM
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RTV55:

To the best of my knowledge, the advanced scanners offered by Snap-On and Mac are bi-directional. Snap-On also offers a comprehensive (multi-function) analyzer that tests virtually every component. It runs in the $300 price range.
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post #8 of 37 Old 05-21-2009, 01:25 PM
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I'm gonna check that out. Appreciate your reply. RTV55

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post #9 of 37 Old 05-22-2009, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Here is an update. Solenoid was replaced and after 4 drive cycles...no repeat code. My mech. knew of the TSB about ECM and the possibilty of it crapping out and basically said it is a crap shoot as to whether or not ECM is fried. He said the longer you drive with the check engine light on specifically with the p1457 code due to the shorting of solenoid the more likley ECM would get fried.
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post #10 of 37 Old 05-22-2009, 10:24 AM
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stormshadow,
Was it the vent shut solenoid or the two-way valve solenoid? I pulled the plug on my vent shut solenoid until my new parts arrive. Glad you got yours fixed. RTV55

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post #11 of 37 Old 05-22-2009, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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It was the EVAP Bypass Solenoid. It cost me $200.00 installed. It was the one mentioned in 03 TSB. I watched the mech. put it in so if this goes again, I will do it. Not hard.

I only drove the car about 40 miles(2 drive cycles or 20 miles per cycle) with the CEL on. He said he doubts that the ECM is fried as it is hard to do. I am still crossing my fingers.

Will unplugging it keep the ECM from getting fried? And another question at what point can this thing get fried. After the light goes on and stays on for a while or is the ECM fried then light goes on?

The way the mech. pointed it out to me was you need to drive the car with the light on because at this point there is a problem and the ECM is calling for the signal from the solenoid but it shorted out and cooked ECM.
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post #12 of 37 Old 05-23-2009, 05:37 AM
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I believe the reason the ECM gets fried is because the solenoids short out. If they are disconnected they can't hurt the ECM. Anyway, I unplugged mine. Got my parts last night and installed everything. Cleared the code and it hasn't come back. Both of my solenoids weren't working anyway and the 2-way valve was leaking. I have another one of these problems waiting to happen because my wife has a 2002 Accord with the same set up. You can trouble shoot this system with a vacuum pump and voltmeter. RTV55

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post #13 of 37 Old 05-25-2009, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormshadow View Post
It was the EVAP Bypass Solenoid. It cost me $200.00 installed. It was the one mentioned in 03 TSB. I watched the mech. put it in so if this goes again, I will do it. Not hard.
Where is it located on a 2.3L?

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post #14 of 37 Old 05-25-2009, 05:31 AM
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cajan,
The solenoids and valves in question are located on or next to the Evap cannister under the left rear passenger seat. Are you getting any codes? RTV55

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post #15 of 37 Old 05-25-2009, 07:22 AM
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Thanks for the info. No codes - just for my future reference since I've seen this issue here and on other 6thGen boards.


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