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post #1 of 16 Old 05-28-2014, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Question Steps to fix oil pan leak

Hello, I am a first-time Honda car owner as of 2 days ago, and purchased a great used 2002 Accord V6 sedan. When I took it to my mechanic, he found a leak from the oil pan, and wanted $200 to fix it. What are the steps for a shade-tree amateur mechanic to remove the thing and fix it, or is it better left to the pros? What is "Honda bond", and does a FelPro oil pan gasket work better? Appreciate the help. I have turned a wrench once or twice before, am not a pro, but have done shocks-brakes-alternators on my cars for the past 30 years.

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post #2 of 16 Old 05-28-2014, 09:54 AM
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You sure it is the oil pan and not the rear main ?

If it is just the oil pan, you could try re torquing the screws down without replacing the gasket. I have stopped leaks on other cars doing this.

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post #3 of 16 Old 05-28-2014, 11:16 AM
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It's also possible that the oil pan drain bolt has had a majority of its threads stripped causing oil to leak from there as well. That's another possibility as has happened to my v6 on top of the oil pan seal.

As for oil pan gasket for our v6, there is none. Honda uses their super adhesive you stated, Honda Bond, to seal between the oil pan and engine block. If you do the work yourself, you'll need to remove the old adhesive from both the block and the pan before putting the new one on.

If you plan on doing the work yourself, it seems pretty easy. You'll need to remove the lower portion of the exhaust manifold that connects to the catalytic converter leaving the CAT onward hanging. That will grant you access to the oil pan at which point you'll remove the bolts. You may need to use a mallet or something to help remove the oil pan. Clean the pan as stated above, apply new Honda Bond to the pan, then wait about 5min before reinstalling the pan to allow the Honda Bond to firm up a little bit. After the wait period, install the oil pan and put everything back together.

If your oil pan drain bolt threads are stripped, you'll need to get a new oil pan, so discard the old oil pan if that's the case. It's said that the leading reason for the oil pan drain bolt threads to become stripped is because the crush washer doesn't get replaced.

How do I know all this? Because I gotta do this to my v6. I've already done the research for you! LOL

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

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post #4 of 16 Old 05-28-2014, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Leaky Oil Pan - How to fix

Thank you for all the help! To answer a question, I don't know if its the rear seal leaking, I am going by a trusted mechanic's advice on the oil pan leaking. Based on what you folks shared with me, it appears I can do it myself. Do you need to replace exhaust flange gaskets when you disconnect the exhaust to get to the oil pan? (if my car uses even has these flange gaskets). Thanks again.
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-30-2014, 12:33 PM
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That part on the flange gaskets, I have no clue on. My oil pan replacement will be slightly different since my OEM CAT was stolen from the flanges so the replacement CAT had to be welded on. I'd say, buy new gaskets anyways since you don't know the condition in which yours currently are in. If you don't need them, then just return them!

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-01-2014, 09:29 PM
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these oil pans do not leak. something is not right here... drain bolts strip out and you can helicoil it or replace the pan.

minor seepage is no big deal but leaking - doesn't happen.

hondabond is a silicone sealer. there is no traditional rubber or paper gasket. hondabond is amazing and used to seal the pan to the block. don't use a generic rtv sealer.

rear main seals...leak rarely. get a second opinion or the exact reason for the recommendation.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-02-2014, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaTechAV6 View Post
these oil pans do not leak. something is not right here... drain bolts strip out and you can helicoil it or replace the pan.

minor seepage is no big deal but leaking - doesn't happen.

hondabond is a silicone sealer. there is no traditional rubber or paper gasket. hondabond is amazing and used to seal the pan to the block. don't use a generic rtv sealer.

rear main seals...leak rarely. get a second opinion or the exact reason for the recommendation.
Then I have a question for you. Why is it that I have oil seeping down the passenger side of my engine block? I've already done the following and I'm still leaking oil from that side:
  • Replace PS gaskets
  • Replace valve cover gaskets (~ 2months ago)
  • Oil pan drain bolt threads stripped, re-threaded and replaced with oversized bolt

I don't know what else is on the passenger side that would cause oil to leak, and from what I've seen, it seems to be coming from the oil pan. The leak is specifically located on the rear of the engine block on the passenger side. I've attempted to follow the oil up higher thinking it's somewhere else, but it's not higher and this has made me believe that the oil pan seal is what's to blame here.

Your thoughts on what could be the cause here?

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-02-2014, 10:26 AM
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by passenger side I'm assuming you mean the front of the engine - oil seepage from this can be from several places.

power steering pump: misleading seepage seeps down the timing cover and out the bottom
crankshaft/camshaft seals
timing tensioner fluid leaking
oil pressure switch
cylinder head gasket

step one: wash the oil mess away completely and monitor for the leak again to attempt to determine the source if you can visually spot it

step two: bring it to me

I'm not saying it's impossible to have a leaking oil pan on the v6 6th gen, it's just ridiculously rare if it is still factory. also it's hard to say that it's this or that without seeing it, but oil likes to travel along seems. you can have a front v.c. gasket leak and it will seep down till it hits where the oil pan is and travels along the seem on a mission to fool you.
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-02-2014, 11:38 PM
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I'll have to wash it good and follow it more closely than I already have. I've replaced most PS gaskets, V.C. gaskets, and oil pan drain bolt. I still leak oil, but I'm not having to add a quart of oil every 2 weeks anymore. Now, it's more like a quart of oil every 6 weeks, lol.

I'd take it to you, but aren't you all the way in middle america somewhere? Kinda far from me here in SoCal, lol.

2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-08-2014, 01:00 PM
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In a related oil leak question...would anyone happen to know the Honda part # for the silicone sealant that is used for the oil pan? For a 99 Accord V6. Thanks.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-07-2016, 11:39 AM
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Honda Bond Part number: 08718-0004

It's about $10 per tube.

My car developed an oil leak on the passenger side around the oil pan. Honda says it may be the main seal, but hubby thinks it may only be the oil pan. Waiting for the weather to warm up to reseal the pan and go from there.

It's my belief that I developed a leak after months of using synthetic oil. Live and learn.

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post #12 of 16 Old 02-08-2016, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonya in TX View Post
It's my belief that my car developed a leak after months of using synthetic oil. Live and learn.
Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It gets through existing leaks that thicker viscosity oil could't penetrate.

My oil pan is leaking as well, but I don't think trying to troubleshoot something like that on my own would be a fruitful venture. I've heard if you don't get the seal perfect the first time you might get stuck fixing it over and over again until you get it "right".


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post #13 of 16 Old 02-09-2016, 04:42 PM
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If I ever get that far in giving that much TLC to my Accord, I'll make sure to get it right the first time.

I just hate the fact that Honda never made an oil pan gasket for us v6 people.
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2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-10-2016, 07:05 AM
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If/when I get the chance to take Selene in for service I'll let you guys know how the oil pan gasket thing goes. Since I replaced the PCV valve and stuff she hasn't been losing as much oil (a bit of a drip and losing about a quart every few thousand miles previously), but I'm keeping an eye on it.

My only reason for not getting it done right away is because I work 40 hours a week, 8 to 4, and the one I prefer to go to down here isn't open on weekends and closes at 5.

Their website says they offer courtesy cars, but I'm not sure if they'll let me drive one to work and back for a day while they work on my car. I don't know how that stuff works; I assume courtesy cars are for people who have a sudden, serious breakdown and can't sit in the waiting room while the car gets fixed, not just "I need an oil pan gasket and new drum brakes but I can't bring my car in because I have work"...


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post #15 of 16 Old 02-10-2016, 07:15 AM
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Courtesy cars are for the customer to take as a rental for the day (or two) to use while your car gets fixed. They can also give you a ride somewhere, but unless that driver is out when you need your ride, expect to wait for at least 45min before the driver returns.


2000 2dr. v6 Accord, "Dirty Girl": Greddy MX Exhaust | K&N Drop-in Filter | Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT | Eibach Pro Springs | KYB-GR2 Shocks | Eibach Sway Bars | Stereo stuff

'97 Thunderbird, "Pearl": L/R 2.5in Magnaflow Hi-Flow CATs | PI Intake | PI Cams

'13 Taurus, "The Bull": 3.5L Goodness
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