how to removed stripped/stuck brake rotor screws on 8th gen? - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-11-2012, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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how to removed stripped/stuck brake rotor screws on 8th gen?

sup guys,

i spent 8 hours today with my buddy replacing the suspension on my coupe with the HFP setup. it took a sh*t ton of work and trial/error but we finally got it right. the ride is significantly better than stock struts + eibach springs. if anyone is interested, i will be selling those springs very soon. it was quite the learning experience! i am mostly a noob when it comes to cars but today was definitely the highest yield day for me as far as car stuff is concerned. definitely happy i decided to get it done myself (plus a friend) instead of paying out the butt at the dealer.

since we had the wheels off, i decided to change my brakes using cross-drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. three wheels we got done with only a couple issues. however the driver's side rear brake rotor WILL NOT come off. the screws are rusted in there and fused - i tried an impact driver with no luck, also tried a giant breaker bar and only wound up stripping the screws like crazy. drilling the head did not do anything (even though it worked on a prior rotor).

does anyone have a suggestion for how to get those screws out??? i do not like the idea of driving around on 3 new brakes and 1 old...


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post #2 of 17 Old 08-11-2012, 09:01 PM
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So you have already drill out the screw heads? If so then rust is probably holding the rotor onto the hub, just whack the rotors with a sledge hammer from inside face of the rotor away from the car, hit one spot, move the rotor 1/4 turn and hit it again, repeat until rotor comes loose, don't worry about damaging the rotor since you are replacing them anyway.

Just keep both of your feet clear in case the rotor comes flying off and lands on your feet!!!

You also don't need to re-install the screws, the screws are used more for factory assembly environment to maintain efficiency up in a production line.


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post #3 of 17 Old 08-11-2012, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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thanks, that is really helpful. i think i will try using a larger bit tomorrow now that i have read up on the various ways to solve this problem. if that doesn't work then i'll be hammering away.

has anybody used those easy-out stripped screw removal kits from the big box stores?

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post #4 of 17 Old 08-11-2012, 11:09 PM
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Don't waste money, just use a 5/16 drill bit & a heavy hammer.


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post #5 of 17 Old 08-12-2012, 06:52 AM
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In the future, use a cutoff wheel in your dremel tool. Cut a slot in the screw and remove the screw with a flat head scew driver. Works for me.
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-12-2012, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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got 'er done. wound up moving up to a 3/8 drill bit for about 5 minutes, then pounded on the inside of the rotor with a hammer and the s*cker popped right off.

d*mn you, honda!!


new rotors and pads installed:


here's the front being installed by my buddy

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post #7 of 17 Old 08-13-2012, 10:24 AM
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Just for future reference... Once you drilled the heads out, then instead of whacking it with a hammer ensuring that its deformed, take I believe its a 10MM screw and screw into the threaded hole in the rotors, you have 2 of them you can see in your pic. Take a wrench and tighten them down>> Rotor pops right off..

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post #8 of 17 Old 08-13-2012, 10:50 AM
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Great...didn't know Honda was still using them. Had an 87 Accord, 88 CRX Si, 96 Integra GS-R and 98 Prelude in the past and hated them. At my first rotor replacement I ditched those little screws.

Unless they've done something different, all those annoying screws do is hold the rotor to the hub and get frozen. Somewhat redundant when the wheel and lugnuts keep the rotor in place once torqued down. Once the wheel and lugnuts are on, those little screws do nothing.

Wife's Accord needs new brakes, will be looking forward to dealing with those little screws.
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-13-2012, 11:23 AM
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I just replaced my rear brakes as well, but had a hard time with this accord. I couldn't get the caliper brackets off. Those 14mm bolts in back were hard to reach, and my sockets wouldn't fit over the upper bolt as there was another screw thread from the suspension arms just above that got in the way. I eventually got everything out with some patience, PB blaster, and pipes to extend the smaller breaker bar (My large wouldn't fit).

Now concerning the little philips screws on the rotors. There is an easy way to remove those. You need an impact driver (comes with an impact socket set usually). looks like a giant screwdriver made of metal. You basically put in the screw like a normal screw driver and pound the back end with a hammer. It transfers some of the impact force into torque on the screw. Usually a couple of "wacks" and they come loose. I had trouble with one side and the otherside came out like butter. There are plenty of videos on you tube showing this procedure.

I would also use the threaded screw holes as mentioned to remove a stuck rotor from the hub. Make sure you thread two screws into the holes and tighten them both equally until the rotors pops off.

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post #10 of 17 Old 08-13-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionfiggar View Post
I just replaced my rear brakes as well, but had a hard time with this accord. I couldn't get the caliper brackets off. Those 14mm bolts in back were hard to reach, and my sockets wouldn't fit over the upper bolt as there was another screw thread from the suspension arms just above that got in the way. I eventually got everything out with some patience, PB blaster, and pipes to extend the smaller breaker bar (My large wouldn't fit).

Now concerning the little philips screws on the rotors. There is an easy way to remove those. You need an impact driver (comes with an impact socket set usually). looks like a giant screwdriver made of metal. You basically put in the screw like a normal screw driver and pound the back end with a hammer. It transfers some of the impact force into torque on the screw. Usually a couple of "wacks" and they come loose. I had trouble with one side and the otherside came out like butter. There are plenty of videos on you tube showing this procedure.

I would also use the threaded screw holes as mentioned to remove a stuck rotor from the hub. Make sure you thread two screws into the holes and tighten them both equally until the rotors pops off.
yeah, the large bolts holding on the caliper bracket were a pain. the 10mm ones holding the actual caliper were also not fun to deal with... highly recommend using a breaker bar and an extender is a must.

as far as the screws go, the impact driver only worked on one of the rotor screws that were stuck. the others had to be drilled out, or they came out on their own with some help from a breaker bar.

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post #11 of 17 Old 08-14-2012, 09:08 AM
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Yup, just drill them out. They're set screws for the factory line. You don't need them now.
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post #12 of 17 Old 08-14-2012, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeebus31 View Post
got 'er done. wound up moving up to a 3/8 drill bit for about 5 minutes, then pounded on the inside of the rotor with a hammer and the s*cker popped right off.

d*mn you, honda!!


new rotors and pads installed:


here's the front being installed by my buddy


Where di you buy your pads from?
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post #13 of 17 Old 08-14-2012, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccrazied4 View Post
Where di you buy your pads from?
brakemotive76 on ebay. $188 for all four rotors and eight ceramic pads. killer deal i think, but i'll reserve judgment on performance until a little later. so far so good!

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post #14 of 17 Old 08-15-2012, 05:42 AM
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how is the quality?

car: 09 accord coupe ex-l v6 blue belize pearl
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-15-2012, 07:05 AM
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When I put new rotors on my Accords, I replace the screws with new ones and lubricate the threads. It makes the job of seating the caliper easier and I like how the rotor is locked down evenly to the hub.

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