Brake Motive Slotted and Crossdrilled Rotors and Pads - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-24-2012, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Motive Slotted and Crossdrilled Rotors and Pads

Hey whats good guys so I finally pulled the trigger on these rotors the other day. I was skeptical because I found them on ebay and they were hella cheap! I paid 82.98 for 2 Rotors and PowerStop Ceramic Street pads. That includes tax and shipping was free literally received them in 3 days!!!

This should be the first pic you will see after unboxing.

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So then I did the job yesterday afternoon. Let me start off by saying Honda Rotor design is horrible the damn screws are the worst. I got them off the driver side no problem but passenger side was another story. I broke the "Impact Driver bit" that I was using and stripped the hell out of the screws. If this happens the only way you are getting the rotor off is to drill out the screws which I've done before on my Civic I used to have. Its not fun at all and with out a high power drill you will be there for a while. Now with that being said a few things some may know or not know I guess more for the new guys to modding and doing brakes.

1. Spray everything you are taking off with "Penetrating Oil" this makes breaking bolts loose much easier!!

2. If you have a "Breaker Bar" use it to take off the bolts holding the "Caliper Bracket" on.

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3. Clean everything with brake cleaner and Yes including new Rotors. This is because the rotors have residue from machining on them and you want that service nice and clean!!

4. Now some may disagree with this but My step dad is a retired Marine Mechanic. When doing the brakes you don't have to "bleed" the brakes unless you disconnect the brake line. When pushing the piston back in to the caliper "After you open the bleeder" you pushing fluid in and shouldn't push in air, but if you feel safer bleeding after thats fine I didn't and have no issues.

5. Now before putting the pads back on the caliper bracket put grease not on the back of the pad as some of the manuals tell you but on the contact points where the pad comes in contact with the bracket.

6. Now those infamous screws. "They are completely useless as many will tell you trust us" You don't need the screws to hold the rotor on the pressure from the wheel being mounted and the Caliper Bracket will hold in place I've done this on my civic and I'm a pretty aggressive driver and no worries.

7. After placing Rotor and all parts back on the car now you see the screws back on this is the driver side. Passenger side screws are done and didn't use them.

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and tighting everything up retorque your wheels. I have TSW's and mine are 80ft pounds. Keep in mind you will have to retorque after 25 - 50 miles.

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8. Some may have Centric Rings for their Rims as I do To get these off spray penetrating oil on the inner edge of the ring then give it a whack with a hammer and off they come. Now putting them back on Town Fair tire for me at least always puts the damn ring on before the Rim and backwards causing Rim Shake. Put the ring in the Rim first then put in on the hub. If mounted correctly wheel should sit flush when you put it on without the lugs with no force!!

9. Now I never follow the brake instructions for rotors and pads I just drive easy for a few and don't slam on the brakes never had an Issue, but for this I did. Make 5 medium to hard brakes from 40 to 5mph don't come to a complete stop and do this without letting the brakes cool "Yes you will smell the resin being burned off this is normal and it may smoke a bit its ok " Then make 4-5 more passes from 25-5 again not coming to a complete stop this time let the brakes cool between.

So the verdict??

For the money you can't beat the deal the brakes come packaged great and clean. Went on with out a problem. The performance is stellar so far. Now mind you my OEM Rotors where shuddering at braking from 40-65mph really bad they were warped!! These brakes just touch the pedal at 80mph and the car starts to slow excellent!! they look sexy on the car as well and are functional.

This is my first right up so hope it was easy to understand and follow and I included some pics to show the before and after.


2008 Accord LX Sedan
Takada SRI
18 inch TSW black rims chrome lip
Kenwood head unit
2 12 inch kicker comps kenwood 350 watt amp
Magnaflow custom catback exhaust
Blue LED courtesy lights/ Blue LED dome lights
4300k HID Kit (stock housing)
Aluminum painted valve cover
Tinted tails
09 TL 17mm rear sway bar

Future mods


Tints
Coilovers
Ultra Racing Strut tower bar
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-24-2012, 07:20 PM
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Nice job...paint the caliper and it's a brake, not a break...



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post #3 of 8 Old 06-24-2012, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
Hassansin

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Thanks lol for that spell check I just corrected. And yes I am going to paint them thinking black or aluminum don't know yet

2008 Accord LX Sedan
Takada SRI
18 inch TSW black rims chrome lip
Kenwood head unit
2 12 inch kicker comps kenwood 350 watt amp
Magnaflow custom catback exhaust
Blue LED courtesy lights/ Blue LED dome lights
4300k HID Kit (stock housing)
Aluminum painted valve cover
Tinted tails
09 TL 17mm rear sway bar

Future mods


Tints
Coilovers
Ultra Racing Strut tower bar
Knuckles1130 is offline

post #4 of 8 Old 06-24-2012, 07:35 PM
Michael

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I think silver would look nice with your setup. Or maybe do the upper part silver, and the lower part black! It is two pieces after all.


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post #5 of 8 Old 06-24-2012, 08:08 PM
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Nice write-up! I recently did this w/ AutoZone parts and those rotor screws turned what should've been a <30min job into 2 days. Had to drive around to find an impact driver and when that didn't work, spent a couple hours drilling them out with my cheap power drill...one full battery charge per 2 screws lol. If I ever decidee to get another new Honda, I'll be sure to remove those screws before I drive it off the lot
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-30-2013, 09:54 PM
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I know this was written up awhile ago but if possible could you give an update on how the rotors and pads are holding up? I was thinking about getting these

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post #7 of 8 Old 05-01-2013, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hgrove99 View Post
I know this was written up awhile ago but if possible could you give an update on how the rotors and pads are holding up? I was thinking about getting these
His last activity was in Nov. of last year, so he's not likely to see this & respond unless you pm him.

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post #8 of 8 Old 06-19-2013, 10:43 AM
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I am VERY happy with these. Bought them on eBay just like the Original Poster did.

I bought this same exact set-up but for all four wheels for my 2005 EX-L....


I've put 2,000 miles on them so far (no winters yet). They do not rust, they stop perfectly, no more sound, no more brake dust (ceramic brakes, ya know), no pulsating brake. And I love the look. Got a compliment in Kentucky when I was gassing up.

And they fit perfectly- no "pad slap". I will take them apart next month just to check progress up close and to see how well my new slider pins are holding up. Before I did my brake job I had a stuck caliper pin and it destroyed my old rear brakes (Chicago winter means salty roads). I decided to just take everything apart once a year and re-lube. Hey, I don't golf so this is my hobby.

On a side note- I drive it "normally". I don't take it on the track and autocross her- I don't panic stop from 125 mph, I don't live in Alaska.

I vacuum flushed the brake fluid with two bottles of Honda fluid and she stops like new. Very happy with the set up. All told, I did my brakes for about $170. Dealer wanted a little over $900. Now I have to paint the calipers as they are the ugly thing that stands out.

2005 Accord EX-L
2-door Coupe
PZEV emission vehicle (!)
4-cylinder, 5-speed Automatic Transmission
16.5 pound Acura RSX 16 inch wheels & 215/55R 16 Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 tires
145k miles (as of Jan '18)
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