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post #1 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Throttle Body Plate Cleaning

Ok, so here is what i did and what happened. 2009, 2.4 automatic

Removed black air inlet
Sprayed intake cleaner ONLY ON THE RAG - NOT INTO TB and manually operated butterfly cleaning soot and residue from plate and throat
Reconnected black air inlet

Didn't remove any electrical connectors.

Now she idles at around 900 rpm...but when cruising at say 20 or 30 it's like the idle wants to keep the car going (almost like cruise)

I disconnected the battery for 10 min (negative terminal) and then did the relearn as best i could by starting the car, running it up to 3000 rpm until the fan cycled and then let it idle for 5 min without anything on.

Doesn't seem that it did much good. There was mention to take both cables off and clamp them together to completely reset the ECU. Is this the step that I missed?

Will the car eventually relearn the correct idle on its own.

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post #2 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 11:10 AM
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Yes the car should relearn the idle on its own. When I changed my throttlebody I just went into the HDS and reset the ECU so it would know that the throttle body was clean and not dirty (it has a % dirty value that it stores). I don't know if doing a battery cable disconnect also resets this value but I don't think it does. I'm pretty sure I had my battery disconnected a few times before changing the throttle body and it wasn't already reset when I went in to reset it.


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post #3 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 12:35 PM
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It will fix itself within 2-3 weeks of driving. You can use a bidirectional scan tool to speed up the process.
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post #4 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 12:40 PM
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Guys, not sure what happened to my OP, but that is my post but not my ID. Admins, i'm not sure how i got authenticated as "User Name" seems like you might have a bug.

This is a valid account. Not sure about User Name.
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post #5 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 12:41 PM
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Idle at 900 is too high. What was the idle before you cleaned the throttle body?

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post #6 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
It will fix itself within 2-3 weeks of driving. You can use a bidirectional scan tool to speed up the process.

Can you help me understand the bi-directional scan tool? I want to turn the car over to my daughter but don't feel comfortable doing that. Dealer would like $139.00 to reset ECU and relearn idle.

What do you suggest?
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post #7 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by greg1c View Post
Idle at 900 is too high. What was the idle before you cleaned the throttle body?

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idle was nice and steady at something below 900 i would guess around 700-750. It was all good. I'm confident I didn't screw anything up. I wasn't aggressive, didn't spray anything into the TB just normal cleaning of the throat and plate. I'm guessing the ECU is not sure where the idle should be given the driving condition.

I also, spayed off the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner as well. so again, nothing crazy. It's certainly drivable, just not as nice and steady like before. I'm guessing it needs to relearn the idle...just wish i knew how to help it along.

I was going to pull the negative cable off tonight, leave it unconnected overnight and then reconnect, make sure everything is off and start it and let it idle until normal operating temp.

BTW, this place is great.
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post #8 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cnollego View Post
Can you help me understand the bi-directional scan tool? I want to turn the car over to my daughter but don't feel comfortable doing that. Dealer would like $139.00 to reset ECU and relearn idle.

What do you suggest?
This is the process:


You use the scantool to reset the throttle body values so the idle is returned to normal specs.

I have my odyssey's idle set to 900 rpms. (with my tuner) You do need to keep the brake pedal pressed harder than normal at a stoplight because the car will want to lurch forward.

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post #9 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cnollego View Post
idle was nice and steady at something below 900 i would guess around 700-750. It was all good. I'm confident I didn't screw anything up. I wasn't aggressive, didn't spray anything into the TB just normal cleaning of the throat and plate. I'm guessing the ECU is not sure where the idle should be given the driving condition.

I also, spayed off the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner as well. so again, nothing crazy. It's certainly drivable, just not as nice and steady like before. I'm guessing it needs to relearn the idle...just wish i knew how to help it along.

I was going to pull the negative cable off tonight, leave it unconnected overnight and then reconnect, make sure everything is off and start it and let it idle until normal operating temp.

BTW, this place is great.
This is completely normal after throttle body cleaning, you need to let the car learn the new values or just reset the values with a scantool. I would just drive the car normally, it should be back to normal within 100 miles of driving.

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post #10 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
This is completely normal after throttle body cleaning, you need to let the car learn the new values or just reset the values with a scantool. I would just drive the car normally, it should be back to normal within 100 miles of driving.
Thanks guys, this will be my wifes car for a few months and then get's turned over to my daughter when she turns 16.

Wife got hit by a texting driver and totalled here CX9 which was perfect and was going to be passed down to the kid.

We went out and test drove the 2018 camry's and got all excited...went to lunch and after she had a couple margaretas and I had a few Coronas we both decided it would not be great to teach my 15 yr old to learn to drive in a loaded Camry XLE V6. Can you imagine the road rash on those back 20"s.

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post #11 of 14 Old 01-08-2018, 07:04 PM
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Part of the reason for the increased idle speed is, I think, because you moved the throttle vane. There is no physical connection from the accelerator pedal to the throttle vane; that went away in 2006. This car uses a "drive-by-wire" throttle system where electrical sensors on the accelerator pedal are sent to the computer, which then tells a motor inside the throttle body to move the vane a proportional amount. When everything is in sync, the computer knows where "closed" is for the throttle body motor, and where 0% throttle is for the accelerator.

By moving the vane manually, you may have upset that balance. The computer needs to know the new value for a closed throttle vane.

Or something like that.

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post #12 of 14 Old 01-09-2018, 12:57 PM
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Yes, that is what has happned. I've been told that the car will relearn but at this point (60 miles afterward) it hasn't improved much. Also check engine light came on for a PO507 which makes sense and I would think will go off once the idle is relearned (the car is driven enough)
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post #13 of 14 Old 01-09-2018, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnollego View Post
Yes, that is what has happned. I've been told that the car will relearn but at this point (60 miles afterward) it hasn't improved much. Also check engine light came on for a PO507 which makes sense and I would think will go off once the idle is relearned (the car is driven enough)
Did you unplug the connector to the TB when you cleaned it? or disconnect the battery ?

DBW throttle bodies do not like to be manually moved IF the power is still applied to the motor that drives the vane.

There are enough articles that state that it is possible that the gears MAY be destroyed inside that motor.

Not saying this happened to yours just a caveat next time you clean it.

As mtts60 stated the calibration of that vane movement, aside from the cleaning, may have really put it out of range with movement of the vane.

These DBW aren't as forgiving as the old cable actuated TB's.

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post #14 of 14 Old 01-11-2018, 09:53 AM
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Well...here is an update. I hope I don't jinx myself. The car was not relearning on it's own. I took another look at all connections and found that both the air tube end clamps were a bit loose...probably got another full turn on the clamp screws on both...that could have been a contributing factor.

Here is what I did. Unplugged both battery cables and clamped them together for 30 min. Reconnected them, ensured everything was off and started the car and let it idle for 30 min.

Shut it off and then immediately turned it back on. Drove it. Seems like this or a combination of the clamps being tightened has forced the little guy to re-index the throttle plate.

Please DON'T CLEAN YOUR TB WITHOUT DOING A SEARCH ON HERE FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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