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post #16 of 24 Old 01-02-2018, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by enne View Post
That explains the smoke, I was concerned about that. Doesn't seem like serious damage besides to the lines and rad then.

Let's hope so.

It also explains why the heater stopped producing hot air in the final 100 metres of the drive home.


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post #17 of 24 Old 01-03-2018, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Got the car back. Trans is shifting as perfectly as it was before the fluid loss so no apparent damage there. Took a look at the old rad - the bottom of it basically corroded and fell apart. I was lucky to get the car home. An aftermarket rad and two OEM trans cooler lines were installed along with all new Honda coolant and Honda ATF fluid.


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post #18 of 24 Old 01-03-2018, 01:23 PM
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So basically salt doing the equivalent of sand blasting it? Does the car have its splash shield?

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post #19 of 24 Old 01-03-2018, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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So basically salt doing the equivalent of sand blasting it? Does the car have its splash shield?
Yep splash shield is still there. And I think you're right - salt and age took their toll on the components.

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post #20 of 24 Old 01-03-2018, 02:50 PM
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So I was wrong about the no cooler lines on the 2014 but was right about the fittings rotting out at the joint into the radiator. I still think it's a defect in the design. The older 6th gen Accord's cooler line fittings were welded onto the lower portion of the radiator, they aren't an add-on fitting. The key to this problem is a washer in between the fitting and the radiator, it is of a different type of metal, causing rust to form.

check this thread on mdxers.org,
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post #21 of 24 Old 01-03-2018, 02:54 PM
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Seems like it would be a good idea to get under there and paint that connection with liquid electrical tape or silicone.

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post #22 of 24 Old 01-05-2018, 05:46 AM
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Glad to hear about you getting out of that without a blown Transmission.

Level marking comments:
FWIW, I just changed my ATF, and am on my 3rd drain and fill.
When I did the first drain a TON of fluid came gushing out. Easily a bunch more than 2.5 quarts. The level had been solidly in at the middle mark on the stick checking it.
First fill I put back in 2.5 quarts. It didn't even register on the stick, it was below the low mark.
100 miles later 2.7 qts added for 2nd drain and fill. The level was on the stick now, and below the low mark.
I just did a 3rd drain and fill and added 2.85 quarts or so and will check it after I run it today.
Mine is a 2011 i4. (all these checks after fully warmed, level surface within 1-2 min after shutoff).
It doesn't seem to need to be very low on fluid to make a low or no fluid on the stick marking (?)

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post #23 of 24 Old 01-05-2018, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMM View Post
Glad to hear about you getting out of that without a blown Transmission.

Level marking comments:
FWIW, I just changed my ATF, and am on my 3rd drain and fill.
When I did the first drain a TON of fluid came gushing out. Easily a bunch more than 2.5 quarts. The level had been solidly in at the middle mark on the stick checking it.
First fill I put back in 2.5 quarts. It didn't even register on the stick, it was below the low mark.
100 miles later 2.7 qts added for 2nd drain and fill. The level was on the stick now, and below the low mark.
I just did a 3rd drain and fill and added 2.85 quarts or so and will check it after I run it today.
Mine is a 2011 i4. (all these checks after fully warmed, level surface within 1-2 min after shutoff).
It doesn't seem to need to be very low on fluid to make a low or no fluid on the stick marking (?)
Check the fluid within 90 seconds.

Here are the capacities...
ATF change, 2.6 quarts.
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post #24 of 24 Old 01-05-2018, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
The key to this problem is a washer in between the fitting and the radiator, it is of a different type of metal, causing rust to form.
My cousin is an HVAC/Plumber and lives in a $1.2 million dollar home- paid for by idiotic handymen using dissimilar metals in making water heater and A/C drain connections using "whatever" was handy at the moment. No, you can't just screw on a female copper fitting to a male galvanized pipe end. I mean, you CAN, but the divorce is costly and messy.....
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