Tales of ding dongs. Read if bored (spoiler alert shoddy workmanship) - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-11-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Tales of ding dongs. Read if bored (spoiler alert shoddy workmanship)

A number of things popping up on my '11 Coupe.
Ding dong work by buffoons is still being discovered. Oh the Fun!! Like little mysteries!

Driver front brake caliper had no caliper slide boots at all. Spoiler alert. - the slide froze.
I only found this little number out when I was routinely changing the brake fluid and bleeding the whole system out.
I also think I may have found my frame / unibody is bent while there. That's great too. If I jack up my car in a level garage the jack stand is always much 'lower' where it engages on the driver side with a matched height jack set.
And I think I see a bend right behind the drive wheel. Maybe I'm imaging it, but it doesn't look right to me.

Now, just to be inclusive I'm going to spill the beans on work done on my watch too.
My cousin came up over Thanksgiving and gave me a hand bleeding brakes (bumping the pedal while on his phone) and then he and I tried to track down a possible wheel bearing gone bad.
I have a hum driving the car - always have since test drive. Hasn't gotten worse, but it's annoying.
I shake the wheels all over in the air and there's no play.
So I read about an old timer trick to have it on a lift and the wheels driving and put a long handled screwdriver to the knuckle area to hear a bad bearing. It should be clear then the hear it
It is either A) too new B) upset about being at an angle and jacked onto stands on the front end only C) VSA like behavior kicking in D) my TPMS is off due to a mismatched wheel with wrong sensor after a blowout.
Either way - the result is = the car will only drive at 15 mph max and stops within a few seconds after you turn the key off - even if then shifted into neutral (AT car).
(I've read one can also can put hand on the spring and feel vibration while spinning wheel - but doing this too none felt on either wheel).
So we went back to the old standby, spinning front wheels by hand.
This is where this tale takes a not wonderful path. My cousin is pretty strong and eager to help. So he muscled the passenger wheel 'free' even though transmission was in 'Park'. I hand't put it back into neutral yet.
I asked him how he got the wheel to spin free and he said he thought I did something.
And the wheel turned freely by hand now, unlike the driver side wheel which the transmission was holding back.

Several days later I start the car while on jackstands, and hear a terrible grinding noise immediate at start up and then a 2nd time shortly after. And then all was normal. Both wheels spinning in air on jackstands.
SO... was that shriek / bark / grind noise the CV axle grinding and popping back into it's splines because it was wrestled out of it's bore on one end? Is this okay now?
The wheel spins like normal with car off and in the air on jack stands now. Has same resistance on both sides. So is all ok? Did I do damage by wearing down the CV axle splines?
Am I "gonna get it" sometime soon out on the road with a CV / axle failure?

And more caring and sharing. The bleeder bolts were all super tight / semi seized.
You know what's next, right? (I don't even have to alert to a spoiling here).
Last one, 4th of 4 bleeder bolts sheared right off. So my car has been 'hanging out' for awhile on jack stands figuring what to do and ordering parts. Later, trying a vicegrip on nub was useless.
I researched a lot and decided bolt extractor and drilling was the thing. I wish I had done nothing.
(spoiler alert).
That bleeder bolt was completely jam / sealed shut. Like Egyptian tomb level sealed shut.
I read a post here where someone opined while driving a car with a broken off bleeder bolt "You're a menace to yourself and everyone else on the road...danger... bad guy...danger...irresponsible..." yada yada yada... At first this really worried me. And then I thought about it. It's SHUT. Just like the other ones you have to back out to OPEN them up. If it's shut closed and frozen how on earth is there any harm at all in that??!??! I wish I hadn't read it.
Anyway, I slowly drilled and moved up sizes... and went nowhere. Now I've got a hole almost as large as the originnal thread, probably close to 'too deep' (I can see the bleeder hole opening down deep in the hole now). Although the outer half is only near full wide, the inner half was drilled with a small bit and one small extractor.
I had planned to just use this caliper until it starts to seize and then replace it. I know I can not ever bleed it out again, and I'm not going to drill in a brand new bleeder hole and thread a new bolt into the caliper somewhere else - I think that's crazy as I read one person did.
My only thought here is run it as is and hope that inner half has enough thread to hold on tight, or try to tap the outer half fairly wide and tighten in a new wider bolt to seal it all up as a second defense.

Back to the frozen caliper slide:
I managed to free up both slide pins - they were in there real bad. Finally got them out, cleaned them with rag, then 0000 steel wool, then 1500 grit sandpaper dry (a little gentle screwdriver chiseling in there too), wiped them off, brake Kleened them, installed new replacement boots, ASC Sil Glyde on the slide pins and reassembled. One pin was pretty clean after all, the other has pitting in the surface although I smoothed it out a lot. The pins side easily with the new Sil Glyde. (previous buffoon put in black axle grease or moly grease as best I can tell).
The slide seizure did not wear the pads unevenly yet, but the outside of the rotor is thinner than the inside. There's still a lot of rotor left but visually you can notice it if you look closely.

Despite the buffonery of workmanship done on this car, and after a real fright thinking I had a rear main seal leak (I didn't) I now like this car a lot. My intent is to make it a 5-10 year car for me. So I want to repair anything wrong and maintain it very well.

Not sure if there will be any comments about the CV axle but I would think everyone who says anything about the caliper will say I need to replace the whole thing immediately.


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'95 Acura Integra RS 5MT (bought new, had it 19.5 years!)
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-11-2017, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMM View Post
A number of things popping up on my '11 Coupe.
Ding dong work by buffoons is still being discovered. Oh the Fun!! Like little mysteries!
I am going to guess your money is tight otherwise I would guess you would just purchase a new caliper. Have you checked pricing at Rockauto.com
Seems like you might be okay but not sure how much you drilled...
I wouldn’t worry about the axle until it gives you problems again.
Why didn’t you pickup new brake pins?

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Last edited by 03LXV6; 12-11-2017 at 06:13 PM. Reason: long quote
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-11-2017, 07:49 PM
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I was so expecting


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post #4 of 15 Old 12-12-2017, 05:24 AM
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If you want to see/read about some real buffoonery, check out my Camaro's thread: Harlock - 1998 Chevy Camaro 3.8 V6
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post #5 of 15 Old 12-12-2017, 05:54 AM
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I was so expecting

Well no ding dong but nuts? Yes.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-12-2017, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Haha. Thanks for replies. Good to hear I could be okay with the axle issue.
If I had known what those caliper pins looked like I would have ordered them.
For everyone's gasping amusement I'm including some 'before' and 'after' pics of those slide pins.
I figure they'll go a year easily, perhaps more.

I saw a bewildering amount of choices at RockAuto. But yes, they are not expensive I saw today. $37 for one shipped from Centric as 'daily driver' level (they don't have centric in their premium category for sale).

Might do a SAE larger tap on that caliper and get a larger bleeder bolt. Figure might as well do that and if it don't work just buy a new one. Can't kill a dead horse, eh?

Real beauties below right?
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-13-2017, 01:54 AM
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Pins are cheap...$37 must be for a caliper, not pins.

I am surprised you reused them.
Brakes are kind of important and I like it when other cars around me have them!
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-13-2017, 02:06 AM
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Previous owner?
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-13-2017, 02:03 PM
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It's probably the VCM noise cancel

V6s on V6s
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-13-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well, yes, I should have ordered those pins. Would be a whole lot cleaner of an install.
I did take out the opposite caliper today.
I'm almost done with apparently 'the impossible'.
I drilled and drilled and chased out the threads of the original bleeder hole in that caliper.
I even managed to get some luck and break off the end of the old frozen bleeder bolt and then remove that with a magnet. So the bleeder bore of the caliper itself is untouched from any drill work.
I just need to locate a proper M10 1.0 pitch tap to chase out the threads.
It's funny I was about to throw in the towel, and then impatiently started cramming some larger and larger drill bits down there.

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post #11 of 15 Old 12-14-2017, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMM View Post
Well, yes, I should have ordered those pins. Would be a whole lot cleaner of an install.
I did take out the opposite caliper today.
I'm almost done with apparently 'the impossible'.
I drilled and drilled and chased out the threads of the original bleeder hole in that caliper.
I even managed to get some luck and break off the end of the old frozen bleeder bolt and then remove that with a magnet. So the bleeder bore of the caliper itself is untouched from any drill work.
I just need to locate a proper M10 1.0 pitch tap to chase out the threads.
It's funny I was about to throw in the towel, and then impatiently started cramming some larger and larger drill bits down there.
Think about how much your time is worth?
Is the $37 caliper still worth your time or it now the challenge of you defeating the bleeder bolt?

Regardless, good luck and hope you win, but I also know time is money, unless you donít have much of it. When I was in my 20s, I too probably gone the route you are taking...now I would just replace it.

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post #12 of 15 Old 12-14-2017, 06:02 PM
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why don't just order a new caliper w/the bracket?,,2 bolts a quick bleed and done.it may cost a bit more but it will last long long while before the slides crud up that bad (as your old ones)
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-14-2017, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't want to wait until next week to get a reasonable quality caliper in.
I was able to source a M10 1.00 pitch tap to be ready locally by 9am tomorrow.
So it's just a faster route to get my car back on the road, which is a big motivator.
I've always liked a challenge. And apparently my time isn't worth much this month. After near constant work, I probably won't work a day in December.

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post #14 of 15 Old 12-15-2017, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
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I didn't want to wait until next week to get a reasonable quality caliper in.
I was able to source a M10 1.00 pitch tap to be ready locally by 9am tomorrow.
So it's just a faster route to get my car back on the road, which is a big motivator.
I've always liked a challenge. And apparently my time isn't worth much this month. After near constant work, I probably won't work a day in December.
makes sense,,thats why I was wondering
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post #15 of 15 Old 12-16-2017, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Yep
I completed the, well, complete caliper rebuild today.
I finished tapping out the broken bleeder valve area with a M10 1.00 pitch tap. I got that next day at local Grainger for $1.97
The tap worked great, although it's a cutting style tap and not a bottoming style tap. I had to more or less cut / remove the leftover metal from the bleeder at the very bottom of the bleeder shaft with a sacrificial 10mm 1.00 pitch bolt I had laying around from my old Supra (the Grainger cutting one has tapered end which 'bottoms out' in the bleeder hole and doesn't cut entire way flush to the bottom. I needed about 2 more threads there, and the bolt finished that off nicely).

M10 1.00 bleeder bolt from Napa locally in stock for $1.99

I'm happy to review and say this kit's fit was excellent:
BrakeBest - caliper Repair Kit
Part # 15111
$5.15 at local Oreilly Auto in stock.
Included the piston seal, dust boot, dust boot circlip (spring ring type thing), 2 copper crush washers, 1 bleeder cap

(This is also part #15111 as listed on RockAuto as brand Carlson. About $6 with shipping).

I already had the ASG Sil Glyde and brake cleaner and brake fluid on hand. So total cost to repair the broken off bleeder valve and rebuild the caliper itself was just under $9.15 My time: Priceless

Getting the dust boot in over the piston wasn't a big deal. I'm going to make a few posts with tips for some brake repair hints and one for replacing the transmission filter easier. This job was fun and not very difficult. Drilling out the broken bleeder was the fussiest part but still not too bad.

I will note: Filling and bleeding the rebuild caliper, the new Napa bleeder screw is a little 'loose' in the threads and fluid comes around the bleeder when opened. But not when closed, the bleeder tip makes very good contact with the end of the bleeder bore and seals the bleeder passageway. This was verified closely.


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'04 Acura TSX 2.4L 6MT
'95 Acura Integra RS 5MT (bought new, had it 19.5 years!)
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