A number of things popping up on my '11 Coupe.
Ding dong work by buffoons is still being discovered. Oh the Fun!! Like little mysteries!
Driver front brake caliper had no caliper slide boots at all. Spoiler alert. - the slide froze.
I only found this little number out when I was routinely changing the brake fluid and bleeding the whole system out.
I also think I may have found my frame / unibody is bent while there. That's great too. If I jack up my car in a level garage the jack stand is always much 'lower' where it engages on the driver side with a matched height jack set.
And I think I see a bend right behind the drive wheel. Maybe I'm imaging it, but it doesn't look right to me.
Now, just to be inclusive I'm going to spill the beans on work done on my watch too.
My cousin came up over Thanksgiving and gave me a hand bleeding brakes (bumping the pedal while on his phone) and then he and I tried to track down a possible wheel bearing gone bad.
I have a hum driving the car - always have since test drive. Hasn't gotten worse, but it's annoying.
I shake the wheels all over in the air and there's no play.
So I read about an old timer trick to have it on a lift and the wheels driving and put a long handled screwdriver to the knuckle area to hear a bad bearing. It should be clear then the hear it
It is either A) too new B) upset about being at an angle and jacked onto stands on the front end only C) VSA like behavior kicking in D) my TPMS is off due to a mismatched wheel with wrong sensor after a blowout.
Either way - the result is = the car will only drive at 15 mph max and stops within a few seconds after you turn the key off - even if then shifted into neutral (AT car).
(I've read one can also can put hand on the spring and feel vibration while spinning wheel - but doing this too none felt on either wheel).
So we went back to the old standby, spinning front wheels by hand.
This is where this tale takes a not wonderful path. My cousin is pretty strong and eager to help. So he muscled the passenger wheel 'free' even though transmission was in 'Park'. I hand't put it back into neutral yet.
I asked him how he got the wheel to spin free and he said he thought I did something.
And the wheel turned freely by hand now, unlike the driver side wheel which the transmission was holding back.
Several days later I start the car while on jackstands, and hear a terrible grinding noise immediate at start up and then a 2nd time shortly after. And then all was normal. Both wheels spinning in air on jackstands.
SO... was that shriek / bark / grind noise the CV axle grinding and popping back into it's splines because it was wrestled out of it's bore on one end? Is this okay now?
The wheel spins like normal with car off and in the air on jack stands now. Has same resistance on both sides. So is all ok? Did I do damage by wearing down the CV axle splines?
Am I "gonna get it" sometime soon out on the road with a CV / axle failure?
And more caring and sharing. The bleeder bolts were all super tight / semi seized.
You know what's next, right? (I don't even have to alert to a spoiling here).
Last one, 4th of 4 bleeder bolts sheared right off. So my car has been 'hanging out' for awhile on jack stands figuring what to do and ordering parts. Later, trying a vicegrip on nub was useless.
I researched a lot and decided bolt extractor and drilling was the thing. I wish I had done nothing.
That bleeder bolt was completely jam / sealed shut. Like Egyptian tomb level sealed shut.
I read a post here where someone opined while driving a car with a broken off bleeder bolt "You're a menace to yourself and everyone else on the road...danger... bad guy...danger...irresponsible..." yada yada yada... At first this really worried me. And then I thought about it. It's SHUT. Just like the other ones you have to back out to OPEN them up. If it's shut closed and frozen how on earth is there any harm at all in that??!??! I wish I hadn't read it.
Anyway, I slowly drilled and moved up sizes... and went nowhere. Now I've got a hole almost as large as the originnal thread, probably close to 'too deep' (I can see the bleeder hole opening down deep in the hole now). Although the outer half is only near full wide, the inner half was drilled with a small bit and one small extractor.
I had planned to just use this caliper until it starts to seize and then replace it. I know I can not ever bleed it out again, and I'm not going to drill in a brand new bleeder hole and thread a new bolt into the caliper somewhere else - I think that's crazy as I read one person did.
My only thought here is run it as is and hope that inner half has enough thread to hold on tight, or try to tap the outer half fairly wide and tighten in a new wider bolt to seal it all up as a second defense.
Back to the frozen caliper slide:
I managed to free up both slide pins - they were in there real bad. Finally got them out, cleaned them with rag, then 0000 steel wool, then 1500 grit sandpaper dry (a little gentle screwdriver chiseling in there too), wiped them off, brake Kleened them, installed new replacement boots, ASC Sil Glyde on the slide pins and reassembled. One pin was pretty clean after all, the other has pitting in the surface although I smoothed it out a lot. The pins side easily with the new Sil Glyde. (previous buffoon put in black axle grease or moly grease as best I can tell).
The slide seizure did not wear the pads unevenly yet, but the outside of the rotor is thinner than the inside. There's still a lot of rotor left but visually you can notice it if you look closely.
Despite the buffonery of workmanship done on this car, and after a real fright thinking I had a rear main seal leak (I didn't) I now like this car a lot. My intent is to make it a 5-10 year car for me. So I want to repair anything wrong and maintain it very well.
Not sure if there will be any comments about the CV axle but I would think everyone who says anything about the caliper will say I need to replace the whole thing immediately.