drowned12's second 2012 Accord -now with V6- build thread - Page 4 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #46 of 157 Old 09-25-2017, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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MityVac suction method with the engine running worked great. Cycled 5 bottles through before I was reasonably convinced the fluid coming out was the same clear color as the fluid going in (vs. dark amber).

Summary of where we're at:

Brakes (lines pads rotors fluid) probably next up to be worked on.
Ported intake runners on the way.
CAI needs a touch up but is otherwise fine.
TB Coolant bypass needs hose replaced.
PCV catch can waiting on parts.
RV6 stuff waiting to be installed (awaiting a right angle impact gun)
Ultra Racing chassis bracing on the way (direct from Malaysia to save $). I'll replace the rear sway bar when I have the wheels off.
I'll burn another tank of gas with Redline SI-1 in it and then probably change the oil tranny fluid and spark plugs again.
Coolant drain eventually.
Wiper blades up next.
I'm procrastinating changing the outer door weatherstripping because it involves taking the door panels off.

Ktuner I need to schedule time to get the VCM disable worked on, as well as EGR delete (just turning off the valve completely instead of a blockoff plate). Then I'll get dyno tuned with all the mods.


2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #47 of 157 Old 09-25-2017, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
Turkey baster was a disaster with the PS fluid I may be mentally challenged or something with kitchen utensils, but every time I tried to pull it out of the reservoir it would just squirt fluid out. Then the thing separated from the bulb on top and dropped in to my used oil container.
First time hearing this lol maybe the turkey baster was bad

Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
MityVac suction method with the engine running worked great. Cycled 5 bottles through before I was reasonably convinced the fluid coming out was the same clear color as the fluid going in (vs. dark amber).

Summary of where we're at:

Brakes (lines pads rotors fluid) probably next up to be worked on.
Ported intake runners on the way.
CAI needs a touch up but is otherwise fine.
TB Coolant bypass needs hose replaced.
PCV catch can waiting on parts.
RV6 stuff waiting to be installed (awaiting a right angle impact gun)
Ultra Racing chassis bracing on the way (direct from Malaysia to save $). I'll replace the rear sway bar when I have the wheels off.
I'll burn another tank of gas with Redline SI-1 in it and then probably change the oil tranny fluid and spark plugs again.
Coolant drain eventually.
Wiper blades up next.
I'm procrastinating changing the outer door weatherstripping because it involves taking the door panels off.

Ktuner I need to schedule time to get the VCM disable worked on, as well as EGR delete (just turning off the valve completely instead of a blockoff plate). Then I'll get dyno tuned with all the mods.
Make sure you're done adding mods before heading to dyno tune, if you add anything after the dyno tune you need to retune. Ask me how I know lol.

Why do you need the right angle gun if you don't mind me asking? I assume you need a right angle impact because of the pre cat to motor bolts? They are not difficult to remove, you can get them off with a ratchet. Pre cat to j pipe bolts can be a different story. If you don't live in a snowy environment, then you should be good with a breaker bar but impacts make removal a breeze of course. Installing the PCDs is not too difficult. You accordians don't have to remove the motor mount to get the rear cat out, I had to remove the rear motor mount to get the rear cat out of my odyssey.

Top tip: Spray the bolts with PB blaster 1-2 days before you remove the exhaust bolts.


2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -

Last edited by namegoeshere; 10-06-2017 at 07:49 PM. Reason: merge
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post #48 of 157 Old 09-25-2017, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
Make sure you're done adding mods before heading to dyno tune, if you add anything after the dyno tune you need to retune. Ask me how I know lol.

Why do you need the right angle gun if you don't mind me asking? I assume you need a right angle impact because of the pre cat to motor bolts? They are not difficult to remove, you can get them off with a ratchet. Pre cat to j pipe bolts can be a different story. If you don't live in a snowy environment, then you should be good with a breaker bar but impacts make removal a breeze of course. Installing the PCDs is not too difficult. You accordians don't have to remove the motor mount to get the rear cat out, I had to remove the rear motor mount to get the rear cat out of my odyssey.

Top tip: Spray the bolts with PB blaster 1-2 days before you remove the exhaust bolts.
The impact just reduces the chances substantially of shearing one of the bolts off, and it was an excuse to buy a new tool Heck I'm even going to be using an impact to get the AFR and O2 sensors off, works fine so long as it doesn't spin the sensor so hard the connector whips around and smashes on the garage floor (oops). Fortunately AZ has no salt or snow so the exhaust bolts look pretty minty fresh. Just mild surface rusting / grime.

I did give them a PB Blaster spray already, best I could. Couldn't get a good aim on the rear cat bolts on the driver side but I think I hit them somewhat.

Yep definitely waiting to get all the mods wrapped up before the tune. The car is already so freaking fast it's more than adequate

On the subject of tools, I also added a SnapOn 10mm flange wrench (used) to my collection. I remember how bad it was undoing the brake line nuts on Accord #1 and I wanted the best shot possible of cracking them loose without twisting the hardline or having to use vise grips like I did before. The chineseium wrenches have a reputation for letting the jaws open up on wrenches.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #49 of 157 Old 09-25-2017, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
The impact just reduces the chances substantially of shearing one of the bolts off, and it was an excuse to buy a new tool Heck I'm even going to be using an impact to get the AFR and O2 sensors off, works fine so long as it doesn't spin the sensor so hard the connector whips around and smashes on the garage floor (oops).

I did give them a PB Blaster spray already, best I could. Couldn't get a good aim on the rear cat bolts on the driver side but I think I hit them somewhat.

Yep definitely waiting to get all the mods wrapped up before the tune. The car is already so freaking fast it's more than adequate
I did not know you can use a impact on the 02 sensors...becareful of the wires. Again, a overnight soaking, long breaker with a good 02 socket will remove it just fine. I used a 12 inch 3/8 breaker bar with a short tekton 02 sensor socket, came off fairly easily at 120k miles.

You won't keep traction for sure after the dyno tune. Don't push it too hard with the auto trans, monitor the trans temp while you're driving if you can.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -
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post #50 of 157 Old 09-26-2017, 06:33 AM
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The impact is a cool tool to have, but it's honestly overkill on the PCD install. I included a few tips when I installed my PCD's awhile back

PCD's installed - Review

I wouldn't use the impact on the O2 sensors. I've seen threads give up the ghost when I was wrenching for a living. Rent / buy a decent O2 sensor socket. Makes removing / installing them a non-issue.

As my review states, go ahead and order new bolts / nuts / washers (really cheap for good stainless grade 8 if you order online) ahead of time.
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post #51 of 157 Old 09-26-2017, 10:19 AM
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New PCDs from RV6 come with new hardware, gaskets, and even anti seize compound.

Ceramic coating the PCDs is a great option. May cost more, but does keep the engine bay cooler.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -
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post #52 of 157 Old 09-27-2017, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Small update: fabricated a mounting bracket for the PCV air oil separator. I'll use a 90 degree on the right side outlet to run along the top of the radiator back to the intake manifold. Mildly concerned that it's going to be about 3 feet of line total, but it's essentially supposed to be just a breather where air only needs to get through.

http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=430929
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2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #53 of 157 Old 09-27-2017, 12:37 PM
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Man, look at how clean that engine bay is!! I hate you LOL

2008 EX sedan 2.4l, 3 pedals Killed by a dump truck 12-13-2017
Mods: Weapon R I Throttle, OE style lip spoiler, painted calipers, K&N drop in w/ resonator delete, Redline shift boot & armrest cover, Crosstour cluster, JDM style visors, retrofit headlights (morimoto h1 7.0) TL RSB well worth the wait
J2 CBE, DIY 9th gen short shifter, 15mm spacers (rear) 35% tint
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post #54 of 157 Old 09-27-2017, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Quote:
Originally Posted by boring 08 EX View Post
Man, look at how clean that engine bay is!! I hate you LOL
We only get dust here in AZ so alls you gotta do is spritz some degreaser / all purpose cleaner on the engine bay when cold and then hose it off with a low-pressure setting pressure washer. I then come in with a leafblower I bought for the purpose to dry everything off. Good as new

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #55 of 157 Old 09-27-2017, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered: Megan Racing OE-RS exhaust. It's meant for the coupe and not the sedan, but I can cut and tig weld in an extension pipe myself to make it work (which is allegedly all that's needed). Seems like if you want the torque to not fall on its face at the higher RPMs you need to get a bit more exhaust flow, and this is the only off the shelf kit that attempts to be quiet and increases the diameter to 2.5".

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #56 of 157 Old 09-27-2017, 08:00 PM
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Elbow fitting I bought that fits the jegs unit:

3 feet of hose is fine, I have seen way longer. Check this out on another 7th gen.
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07 V6 AUTO Sedan
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post #57 of 157 Old 09-29-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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Minor update:
  • Waiting for some NPT -> Barb fititngs to be able to finish off the PCV oil separator loop. I'm going to route one of the lines in a stealth way under the engine cover by the coil pack harness.
  • Now waiting for the Megan exhaust to show up before I bother with the RV6 stuff (why crack all the bolts to just have to do it again?). I'm also waiting on some additional cutting and grinding tooling to be able to cut and extend the exhaust for the sedan. The wheel base is about 3" longer so I'm not expecting to add much, but I didn't have the best luck on Accord #1 cutting stainless tube squarely, so I'm trying to fix that.
  • I'm out of town this weekend so I'll do the intake runner install, fix the CAI install, and redo the TB coolant bypass sometime next week.
  • Brake / chassis bracing stuff (direct from Malaysia to save $) will be next weekend hopefully.
  • Still trying to work out time with KTuner to add / fix features.

Edit: And I'll replace the PCV valve since it's $20 and an easy job.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #58 of 157 Old 09-29-2017, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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I may have to reject one of the runners received from Slickfab

This is an excessive amount of damage to what is supposed to be a precision machined surface. This area has very little "meat" for the gasket to seal around, and it's damaged bad enough that it'll probably lift the gasket completely especially with how far away the clamping force is from this point.

Also, the thing wasn't degreased particularly well since I'd have to go through and clean the fuel injector holes to guarantee a solid o-ring seal. The EGR butterfly port? was grimy and needs a rag ran through it.

Ugh, now I have to either deal with a time delay or risk getting a leak later, or attempt to clean it up myself and probably still risk a leak.

On the positive, the porting looks good ad it's now slightly bigger diameter than the intake manifold holes are.

Damage.
http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=431313

Grime in the fuel injector hole.
http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=431305
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2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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Last edited by namegoeshere; 10-06-2017 at 07:50 PM.
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post #59 of 157 Old 09-30-2017, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
I may have to reject one of the runners received from Slickfab

This is an excessive amount of damage to what is supposed to be a precision machined surface. This area has very little "meat" for the gasket to seal around, and it's damaged bad enough that it'll probably lift the gasket completely especially with how far away the clamping force is from this point.

Also, the thing wasn't degreased particularly well since I'd have to go through and clean the fuel injector holes to guarantee a solid o-ring seal. The EGR butterfly port? was grimy and needs a rag ran through it.

Ugh, now I have to either deal with a time delay or risk getting a leak later, or attempt to clean it up myself and probably still risk a leak.

On the positive, the porting looks good ad it's now slightly bigger diameter than the intake manifold holes are.
Keep in mind that he sends you used runners, not new OEM runners. To me, the damage won't cause any leaks but check with SlickFab. The EGR tunnel on mine was also grimmed. The grime in the injector hole won't affect the seal, the seal doesn't sit there, it goes inside the smaller hole IIRC.

Are you going to use a thermal intake manifold gasket?

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -

Last edited by namegoeshere; 10-06-2017 at 07:51 PM.
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post #60 of 157 Old 09-30-2017, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
I may have to reject one of the runners received from Slickfab

This is an excessive amount of damage to what is supposed to be a precision machined surface. This area has very little "meat" for the gasket to seal around, and it's damaged bad enough that it'll probably lift the gasket completely especially with how far away the clamping force is from this point.

Also, the thing wasn't degreased particularly well since I'd have to go through and clean the fuel injector holes to guarantee a solid o-ring seal. The EGR butterfly port? was grimy and needs a rag ran through it.

Ugh, now I have to either deal with a time delay or risk getting a leak later, or attempt to clean it up myself and probably still risk a leak.

On the positive, the porting looks good ad it's now slightly bigger diameter than the intake manifold holes are.

Damage.
http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=431313

Grime in the fuel injector hole.
http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=431305

These are high pressure solvent cleaned along with a nylon brush in the injector bungs, if anything is left in the injector bungs, it's not moving without more physical force, which might damage the surface. The O ring seals half way down the bung bore, not at the bottom, so that will not create a sealing issue (look at uncleaned ones, there is tons of crap built up between the Oring and bottom of the bung).

Your particular runners were damaged in transit back to us from the previous owner due to bad packaging (no packaging actually, just thrown in a box and shipped loose). This was noticed and the first thing we did was lap the surface flat and bolt the runner and a used gasket (worst case scenario) to the weld plate we use for these runners, and pressure/vacuum test that port to 5psi and to 125mBar. It was fine, so it continued on to being ported.

I was definitely hesitant to send out a runner like that, but it was perfectly functional and isn't made to be an aesthetic part.

All of that being said, If you're not happy with that explanation, I can issue you a partial refund and you keep what you have, send a replacement runner with a return label for the one you aren't happy with, or take the whole order back for a full refund.


2014 Coupe 6-6 CBP Turbo

Last edited by namegoeshere; 10-06-2017 at 07:51 PM.
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