drowned12's second 2012 Accord -now with V6- build thread - Page 3 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #31 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
Car so nice, bought twice

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I just threw this guy on after I got home this evening. Jegs generic-ish Air Oil separator. I had it in a box from Accord #1 but I took it off back then because it wasn't catching anything even after a a thousand miles. Maybe the V6 just has a lot more hardcore blowby. We'll see!

http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=430137

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2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #32 of 157 Old 09-23-2017, 04:07 AM
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My valves at about 261000 miles on the 7th gen.

You bet the runners make a HUGE difference, at least it does for me. I gained a whole gob of low end torque, actually keeping up with 4x4 SUVs taking off the line from a dead stop. It's more worth it than an intake costing over $100.

See my pic above for the same jegs oil/air separator. I installed it in the path of PCV, not where you have it. That's mostly just a breather hose because when you take that tube off, you don't see any oil residue. I get oil regularly every few weeks.

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post #33 of 157 Old 09-23-2017, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
My valves at about 261000 miles on the 7th gen.

You bet the runners make a HUGE difference, at least it does for me. I gained a whole gob of low end torque, actually keeping up with 4x4 SUVs taking off the line from a dead stop. It's more worth it than an intake costing over $100.

See my pic above for the same jegs oil/air separator. I installed it in the path of PCV, not where you have it. That's mostly just a breather hose because when you take that tube off, you don't see any oil residue. I get oil regularly every few weeks.
This. Installing the catch can where you installed it won't really pick up anything but leave it on for a few weeks and see if it catches anything. t-rd, can you post a picture for us?

Ported intake runners increase volumemetric efficiency by 10%, with a tune, you will see some gains. Even without a tune, you should feel the difference, I noticed the low-mid torque gain. You already have the rest of the intake mods, you're just missing the runners. Once you get the runners, you'll be done with the intake mods and at the same time, you'll get rid of those gummed up intake runners.

Here is my thread: http://radio-pro.ru/forums/21...e-runners.html

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2017 Honda Accord EX-L
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post #34 of 157 Old 09-23-2017, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
My valves at about 261000 miles on the 7th gen.

You bet the runners make a HUGE difference, at least it does for me. I gained a whole gob of low end torque, actually keeping up with 4x4 SUVs taking off the line from a dead stop. It's more worth it than an intake costing over $100.

See my pic above for the same jegs oil/air separator. I installed it in the path of PCV, not where you have it. That's mostly just a breather hose because when you take that tube off, you don't see any oil residue. I get oil regularly every few weeks.
OK, I ordered a set of SlickFab runners. I need to go and measure the ID of the PCV hose to order some more generic-hose. I can then plumb in a second separator.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #35 of 157 Old 09-23-2017, 08:45 AM
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Did you do your TB coolant bypass with coolant hoses? Make sure to use coolant hose or better, silicone coolant hose because fuel line hose will fail. Ask me how I know.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -
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post #36 of 157 Old 09-23-2017, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
Did you do your TB coolant bypass with coolant hoses? Make sure to use coolant hose or better, silicone coolant hose because fuel line hose will fail. Ask me how I know.
The joy of ebay. Its a unknown generic hose. I probably should replace it with silicone.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #37 of 157 Old 09-23-2017, 03:25 PM
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The joy of ebay. Its a unknown generic hose. I probably should replace it with silicone.
I used this: Ebay

You can use the factory hose clamps IIRC.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -
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post #38 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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The PCV hose is 11/32" so you can buy ArmorMark 11/32" PCV Hose at Autozone. I'm going to have to stretch it over 3/8" barbs on the air/oil separator (12/32" for people who don't math), but with a bit of oil lube it should be fine. It'll be interesting to find a mounting point since t-rd looks like the 7G has their coolant reservoir in a different spot than in the 8G.

I'm just going to use 1/2" heater hose for the breather pipe since there's very little oil ever going through there.

Ordered the 5/16" HPS silicone hose for coolant.

I'll hopefully do oil change and tranny fluid change today. Got my car up on Race Ramps cooling down a bit. I don't believe in trying to change the oil at full operating temperature, why bother scalding yourself when a bit cooler will get most of it out *anyways*.

Coolant and PS fluid changes I'll deal with later. PS fluid I'm just going to turkey baster the reservoir with the engine running instead of pulling off the return line.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #39 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 04:03 PM
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Change the coolant at the timing belt service or at 100k miles. Do the thermostat too while you have the coolant drained.

Here is the easiest way of changing the PS fluid. Repeat as needed.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -
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post #40 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Whoever put the oil filter on was a butthole.....had to break out giant adjustable wrench and use 100 grit sandpaper wrapped around the filter to get it off. The tranny gushed fluid out...like...firehose amount of fluid for 5 seconds. Unsure if it was overfilled (dipstick looked ok) or if it was just because it's a big drain hole. And I did get more fluid out when I jacked up the back of the car with the front on ramps (the service manual says to drain it with the car level....seems like that's a legit suggestion).

Used an impact with my 12V driver (my weaker impact gun) to get the ATF fill port off. When my flex head ratched starts bending at the joint, it's time to just get out an impact.

On the bright side the drain bolts on the V6 are way easier to get to than the I4. The I4 you have to cut or remove the splash shield just to get at the tranny drain bolt. I'm pretty sure I could get to both drain bolts without even jacking up the car.

I'm just going to do a "lazy" coolant change where I drain and fill the radiator and maybe attempt to drain the back of the block (the invisible hidden bleeder screw). I just want to refresh the coolant a bit not do a complete change-out.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #41 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 06:06 PM
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See pics of my same Jegs oil/air separator. I purchased 2 separate 90 degree elbow fittings instead of using the straight ones that came with the package. Also make sure you mount it in the right direction, there is a in/out label on the thing itself. I drilled 2 small holes on the frame and used 2 self tapping screws to anchor the top mounting ring. I now have rubber hoses wrapped on one of the hoses so it doesn't rub on the power steering low pressure hose. I used some leftover transmission cooler hoses I got last year for the trans cooler project, which works just fine and withstands the heat. Use silicone spray/grease on the barbs and the hose will slip right over it, just make sure to use clamps. I used fuel line clamps so because they have uniform smooth surface.

I just drained some oil out today In fact, what's caught in the PCV path smells like a mixture of gas and oil. I expect the intake manifold to be much cleaner next time. I have no idea how to block off the EGR properly yet since there is an electrical plug and the ECU is looking for EGR's plunger activation/deactivation.
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post #42 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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See pics of my same Jegs oil/air separator. I purchased 2 separate 90 degree elbow fittings instead of using the straight ones that came with the package. Also make sure you mount it in the right direction, there is a in/out label on the thing itself. I drilled 2 small holes on the frame and used 2 self tapping screws to anchor the top mounting ring. .
In that spot on the 8G we have our coolant overflow tank. I may just put it between the two radiator fans, where the overflow is on the 7G.

She was a thirsty girl. About 5 quarts of oil put it a little bit above full (rather just empty the whole jug than have a tiny bit leftover), and that was with the oil filter pre-filled. 4.25 quarts of ATF. All measured with the engine hot about 60 seconds after shutoff.

Backup:
Mobil1 EP 0W20
Fram Ultra
Honda ATF-DW1


Here is what a blatantly reused crushwasher looks like:http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...hmentid=430361
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2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #43 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
I just drained some oil out today In fact, what's caught in the PCV path smells like a mixture of gas and oil. I expect the intake manifold to be much cleaner next time. I have no idea how to block off the EGR properly yet since there is an electrical plug and the ECU is looking for EGR's plunger activation/deactivation.
There is a P2R EGR block off plate but you need to disable the EGR with a tuner or else the CEL will come on.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
2014 Honda Civic EX-L
2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCмuzzleг - Catless Downpipe/Pre Cat Deletes - Third Cat Delete - Ported Runners - Custom K&N SRI With Cold Air Scoop - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - BC Coilovers - Dyno Tuned -
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post #44 of 157 Old 09-24-2017, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ambient light kit installed. Easiest thing in the world on the V6 since the under-dash insulators that don't exist on the I4 have nice X's on them where you're supposed to drill. The lights mount directly to the insulators instead of having to mount brackets like on the I4. Honda designed the dashboard knowing that they would have a ambient light accessory....as an engineer, I'm impressed with the foresight.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #45 of 157 Old 09-25-2017, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Turkey baster was a disaster with the PS fluid I may be mentally challenged or something with kitchen utensils, but every time I tried to pull it out of the reservoir it would just squirt fluid out. Then the thing separated from the bulb on top and dropped in to my used oil container.

I realized today that I have a MityVac (pneumatic one) that I can just use to suck the fluid out of the reservoir in one shot. I'll wipe it down to get the brake fluid residue off the tube, but that should be a waaay better method.


2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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