drowned12's second 2012 Accord -now with V6- build thread - Page 2 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #16 of 157 Old 09-20-2017, 12:59 PM
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Cylinder 3 gets shut off in both 3 and 4-cyl mode, so it usually gets dirty quickly.

Try disabling VCM when you get the KTuner.

Here were mine. Three guesses which one was in cylinder 3. First two don't count.

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post #17 of 157 Old 09-20-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by UnknownJinX View Post
Cylinder 3 gets shut off in both 3 and 4-cyl mode, so it usually gets dirty quickly.

Try disabling VCM when you get the KTuner.

Here were mine. Three guesses which one was in cylinder 3. First two don't count.
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One on the right is cylinder 3. I'm going based on the darkness of the insulator.

Kinda interesting that your plugs look very close to mine (minus the broken insulator...I'm sure the engine wasn't happy about that blowing through, probably still stuck in the precat).

KTuner doesn't support disabling VCM yet for my ECU model number. Fortunately he lives <10 miles from me so I can work with him on fixing that He also said that his current fix may not be complete enough based on the feedback received (paraphrasing here), so I'm just going to let him have my car for a day or something to sort it out.


2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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post #18 of 157 Old 09-20-2017, 01:21 PM
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One on the right is cylinder 3. I'm going based on the darkness of the insulator.

Kinda interesting that your plugs look very close to mine (minus the broken insulator...I'm sure the engine wasn't happy about that blowing through, probably still stuck in the precat).

KTuner doesn't support disabling VCM yet for my ECU model number. Fortunately he lives <10 miles from me so I can work with him on fixing that He also said that his current fix may not be complete enough based on the feedback received (paraphrasing here), so I'm just going to let him have my car for a day or something to sort it out.
My plugs on my odyssey looked the same. The rear bank is the VCM cylinders.

Ktuner doesn't support your ECU?? It says "*08-12 Accord V6 AT*-VCM Disable Added" on May 23 on their FB.

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post #19 of 157 Old 09-20-2017, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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My plugs on my odyssey looked the same. The rear bank is the VCM cylinders.

Ktuner doesn't support your ECU?? It says "*08-12 Accord V6 AT*-VCM Disable Added" on May 23 on their FB.


The thing is between 2008-2012 there was like 9 different ECU model numbers for the Accord V6. PZEV vs. ULEV, MT vs. AT, then changes based on model year.

"37820-R84-A51 through A54"

I happen to have 37820-R84-A53 (my car being ULEV AT Oct. 2011 production) which isn't supported yet for disabling VCM. I can do other things just not that.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #20 of 157 Old 09-20-2017, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
One on the right is cylinder 3. I'm going based on the darkness of the insulator.

Kinda interesting that your plugs look very close to mine (minus the broken insulator...I'm sure the engine wasn't happy about that blowing through, probably still stuck in the precat).

KTuner doesn't support disabling VCM yet for my ECU model number. Fortunately he lives <10 miles from me so I can work with him on fixing that He also said that his current fix may not be complete enough based on the feedback received (paraphrasing here), so I'm just going to let him have my car for a day or something to sort it out.
Yep, you are right.

One of the differences I noticed was that the car used to shake when the engine is shut off. With new plugs, it doesn't shake nearly as hard when I shut the car off.

I must wonder what caused the insulator to blow up.

I am sure it's not that difficult. Worst comes to worst, I still have my VCMuffler I can sell for cheap, now that I don't have my Accord anymore...

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post #21 of 157 Old 09-20-2017, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
The thing is between 2008-2012 there was like 9 different ECU model numbers for the Accord V6. PZEV vs. ULEV, MT vs. AT, then changes based on model year.

"37820-R84-A51 through A54"

I happen to have 37820-R84-A53 (my car being ULEV AT Oct. 2011 production) which isn't supported yet for disabling VCM. I can do other things just not that.
Man that sucks. Did he say he can work something out and is this a Ktuner thing or its with other tuners as well?

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post #22 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Intake manifold, throttle body, and CAI are now installed. Also did a TB Coolant bypass.

My intake runners are dirty as hell, but I didn't want to do any cleaning and "disturb" the grime so it got sucked into the engine. I'm kinda unsure what to do here...maybe Seafoam?

The HeelToe J37 intake manifold kit is *mostly* complete. You want to order a replacement gasket for the top plate, they say you can reuse the factory one and you probably can, but Honda says to replace it. You also need to fashion some sort of plug (I did one out of electrical tape + zip ties) for the extra vacuum port that is used by the MT (J35Z3) and doesn't exist on the AT (J35Z2). I emailed HeelToe and told them that they really should include a plug if they want to call it a "kit". You don't need to order a top plate from HeelToe (with the AT at least), you can just swap the black valve thingie over. Also, you have to transfer 4 studs from the factory manifold to the J37 manifold which wasn't too big of a deal, but I did have to watch a YT video how you use two nuts to do that.

TB Coolant bypass wasn't too hard to do. I knew what to expect from Accord #1 so I had plugs and hose clamps ready to go to stop coolant that pours out. Also really helpful to have hose pliers to break the seal on the hoses so they'll slide off the barbs. No need to go gorilla, just a bit of twisting up and down of the hose to make it twist freely and then it'll slide right off.

The CAI is 99% certainty Injen or Injen's supplier selling their CAI in the gray market under a generic name. Link: . I just spent an extra $50 on an AEM filter to replace whatever chinese crap comes with it. $140 out the door vs. $300 for an Injen...yeah easy choice. I have to go back next weekend and "fix" my installation a bit since I kinda threw it in there and didn't fully massage the AC condenser pipe and fog light bracket to get perfect fitment.

Also, the J37 throttle body requires a 3.25" coupler. The CAI was also 3.25" so I basically just used a Vibrant straight silicone coupler from Amazon.

Also, I used the HDS to reset the TB learned position. It basically "learns" how clogged up it is over time, mine was set to about 40% so with the new throttle body I reset it to zero (HDS -> PGM/FI -> Inspeciton -> ECTS -> Reset). No CEL, idle problems, or issues.


Extra vacuum port that needs to be blocked off:


Mother of god that grime:




TB size difference:


TB Coolant bypass.


Total time to do all of this was about 4 hours.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #23 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 11:48 AM
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No offense but that car was probably sucking dirt for atleast months. I had an intake leak for several months also and my runners were less dirty than that. I took apart my manifold and cleaned it all out. I notice from my buddy's cars with long term intake leaks eventually blow smoke particularly at engine start or top of a gear.

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post #24 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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No offense but that car was probably sucking dirt for atleast months. I had an intake leak for several months also and my runners were less dirty than that. I took apart my manifold and cleaned it all out. I notice from my buddy's cars with long term intake leaks eventually blow smoke particularly at engine start or top of a gear.
My feeling is that it's just a whackton of residue and junk from the crankcase and EGR. The throttle body itself looked reasonably clean it was just the intake manifold that was all oily and the runners were gunked up. The car was serviced regularly according to the Carfax so I don't think it was severely neglected. Maybe driving like a granny and idling everywhere lets stuff build up (needs more italian tune up). I'm going to give Seafoam upper intake cleaner a try and see what happens. And a second bottle of Redline SI-1 (for everything below the intake). Then l'll change the oil and maybe do the sparkplugs again. I hate seeing a Carquest oil filter...it's made by Wix I believe and not well regarded.

EDIT: oh yeah one of the screws on the airbox wasn't done up at all so maybe it was sucking dirt. Hard to say since the airbox is gasketed it has a lot of margin-for-error.

THIS is why I liked Accord #1 because I had it from 36 miles and knew everything about its service history.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #25 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 05:06 PM
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See pics of me cleaning the entire upper intake path on my 7th gen V6 recently, when I installed the ported intake runners. This is 10.5 years worth of gunk. The gunk in the intake manifold is from PCV and EGR return. If you want to reduce that, then install an oil catch can or oil/air separator in the path of the PCV return. This will keep the intake path cleaner, but not completely clean unless you block off the EGR return.

I still have my old set of runners in the garage if you are interested in seeing a caked layer of oil. It looks 10x worse than yours.

You do need a new gasket for the top intake manifold cover. I had an experience with reusing that and it actually leaked air/oil when I reused the old gasket. I even used permatex copper spray which technically gave it a new layer of gasket material, however, it did not work for me. You can get an entire set of upper plenum gasket from Fel Pro for some $20.

Also, if where you live the temp goes under 32 degree during the winter, then be sure to hook the coolant lines back onto the throttle body or it will freeze over.
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post #26 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 05:20 PM
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My intake runners are dirty as hell, but I didn't want to do any cleaning and "disturb" the grime so it got sucked into the engine. I'm kinda unsure what to do here...maybe Seafoam?
I was in the same boat...my solution was to install these: J32/J35 Ported Intake Runners The first picture is my intake runners lol

You did the right thing, if you try to clean it, you'll cause more problems. I wouldn't use seafoam if you still have your cats on, seafoam might clog them up. The only way to prevent this is to do the EGR delete and oil catch can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by outersquare View Post
No offense but that car was probably sucking dirt for atleast months. I had an intake leak for several months also and my runners were less dirty than that. I took apart my manifold and cleaned it all out. I notice from my buddy's cars with long term intake leaks eventually blow smoke particularly at engine start or top of a gear.
Its normal. My odyssey's runners looked the same, if not worst.

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post #27 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 05:57 PM
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I was in the same boat...my solution was to install these: J32/J35 Ported Intake Runners The first picture is my intake runners lol

You did the right thing, if you try to clean it, you'll cause more problems. I wouldn't use seafoam if you still have your cats on, seafoam might clog them up. The only way to prevent this is to do the EGR delete and oil catch can.
sea foam is not going to clog the cats, I have used it for over 300k miles across 2 cars. You use 1/3 of it and suck it in through a vacuum line on the intake manifold, not the entire can, this instruction is written on the can. For those that destroyed the cats actually sucked in the entire can.

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post #28 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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See pics of me cleaning the entire upper intake path on my 7th gen V6 recently, when I installed the ported intake runners. This is 10.5 years worth of gunk. The gunk in the intake manifold is from PCV and EGR return. If you want to reduce that, then install an oil catch can or oil/air separator in the path of the PCV return. This will keep the intake path cleaner, but not completely clean unless you block off the EGR return.

I still have my old set of runners in the garage if you are interested in seeing a caked layer of oil. It looks 10x worse than yours.

You do need a new gasket for the top intake manifold cover. I had an experience with reusing that and it actually leaked air/oil when I reused the old gasket. I even used permatex copper spray which technically gave it a new layer of gasket material, however, it did not work for me. You can get an entire set of upper plenum gasket from Fel Pro for some $20.

Also, if where you live the temp goes under 32 degree during the winter, then be sure to hook the coolant lines back onto the throttle body or it will freeze over.
Holy cow that is hardcore varnished intake manifold! Mine in comparison is mint condition

I decided I'll just do it properly and take the intake manifold + injectors and such off to clean out the intake runners with a good degreaser soaking. I thought about going with the ported ones but I don't think it'll make enough of a difference to justify the cost. The rough casting if anything may help performance. I didn't check but also if it's the same intake runners as the J37 then they're probably good to more power than you can get out of our J35's.

I've never removed fuel injectors before so that'll be fun! I ordered all the orings and gaskets to do it right. I'm assuming that everything below the runners is clean since it's constantly being sprayed with fuel.

EDIT: And yeah in AZ we never go below freezing ("cold" in winter is 40F) so TB bypass was a-ok on Accord #1. I think you'd have to go well below 32F to get the TB to freeze up since the engine bay will be hot. Even with a CAI I never see the IAT go less than +5F over ambient once the engine bay is heat soaked. You're right though, if you live in the midwest don't do a TB coolant bypass

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #29 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 07:34 PM
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Here is a video of my intake runners. Recorded August of 2016.

2017 Honda Odyssey TE - VCмuzzleг - OEM Footwell LED Mod - Rear LED Reflectors - H&R Springs - Rear Airlift Kit -
2017 Honda Accord EX-L
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post #30 of 157 Old 09-22-2017, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
Here is a video of my intake runners.
Same ballpark as mine. I know the gunk is probably just OCD and doesn't have any major effect on performance, but I know it's there so I now *have* to fix it I'm already going through a ton of effort putting on parts and doing fluid changes so might as well do a "full" reset where possible.


2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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