drowned12's second 2012 Accord -now with V6- build thread - Page 11 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #151 of 157 Old 12-28-2017, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drowned12 View Post
Koni FSD's were warrantied and installed the new ones. Much better having a car with actual dampening.
Glad to hear you got this cleared up!
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There is a pop that happens when I go over my driveway bump or speed bumps and it only happens in the front left wheel area. I have no idea what it is. I disconnected the sway bar completely just to eliminate that and the noise remains. Could be one of the bushings in the control arm deciding to let go a bit, maybe something in the caliper needing regreasing, maybe the shock has a minor defect. No idea, but it doesn't make any noise during regular driving or cornering. I rechecked the strut bolts and they were all tight. I'm just going to ignore for now to see if it gets worse or fixes itself.
My 6th gen does the exact same thing in that exact same place. The popping sound happens every day at specific places on my daily commute like clockwork; especially if it's a turn and the road dips down on the left side. And having driven other cars on that same route without that sound I know it is something with the Accord. It goes away for a few weeks any time I've messed with the suspension (like replacing the entire strut assembly) but it always comes back. It does not seem to be getting worse, but it isn't going away either. It is not the sway bar links or bushings (but the groaning/squeaking sound, I found out, is coming from the sway bar links getting shaken loose over time so I have to tighten those periodically). It can't be anything to do with the strut/mount/spring/etc. because it was making that noise before and after replacing all of those things. Not the wheels either, it's doing it with the winter wheels on now as well.

I will be replacing the control arm(s) on that side soon... If the noise goes away after that I'll do the other side as well. Just wanted to let you know since it might be the same problem.



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post #152 of 157 Old 12-28-2017, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
Liessss, builds never end! lol

Any update on Ktuner?
Haven't followed up since I've been pretty busy myself recently with the end of the year and holidays.

*Hopefully* the build is done. I don't think there's any mods left to do besides the EGR delete that t-rd suggested and maybe fabricating something to attach an Ingalls engine stiffener to the FTSB and the intake cover (don't really know if that bar can take that kind of shear-load). There's always going to be a weekly washing since black shows dust all the time.

On a somewhat tangent, I need to revert the throttle sensitivity back to OEM. Linear works great on the I4 but the V6 has so much torque that it makes it really hard to maintain speed with little throttle, because OEM the pedal is desensitized for the first 1/3rd of it.

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Glad to hear you got this cleared up!

My 6th gen does the exact same thing in that exact same place. The popping sound happens every day at specific places on my daily commute like clockwork; especially if it's a turn and the road dips down on the left side. And having driven other cars on that same route without that sound I know it is something with the Accord. It goes away for a few weeks any time I've messed with the suspension (like replacing the entire strut assembly) but it always comes back. It does not seem to be getting worse, but it isn't going away either. It is not the sway bar links or bushings (but the groaning/squeaking sound, I found out, is coming from the sway bar links getting shaken loose over time so I have to tighten those periodically). It can't be anything to do with the strut/mount/spring/etc. because it was making that noise before and after replacing all of those things. Not the wheels either, it's doing it with the winter wheels on now as well.

I will be replacing the control arm(s) on that side soon... If the noise goes away after that I'll do the other side as well. Just wanted to let you know since it might be the same problem.
Let me know how that goes. The noise when I had my head by the wheel with partner going back and forth on the driveway sounded like it was coming from the front part of the lower control arm. I'll take the bumper off later this week and make sure it's not the CAI hitting the frame since that's in the same "region" as the control arm and maybe it shifted a bit with the engine being dropped for the FSB install.


2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #153 of 157 Old 12-28-2017, 10:46 AM
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Well if it's the same sound I'm hearing it's not a CAI, haha. Not that our cars are remotely the same but yannow.


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post #154 of 157 Old 01-02-2018, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Well if it's the same sound I'm hearing it's not a CAI, haha. Not that our cars are remotely the same but yannow.
The noise may have somehow gone away on its own for me. I haven't been driving much due to the holidays (hell I've probably driven 2 miles in the past week), but coming in and out of the driveway and a speedbump I didn't hear anything. I'm fingers crossed that whatever was making noise worked itself out or seated itself.

Now I'm on rattle-patrol trying to find the one remaining rattle in the cabin.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #155 of 157 Old 01-04-2018, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Koni did warranty both of the front shocks, so there was no out of pocket replacement to me aside from the $20 to ship them back to Koni. I don't know if both were actually failed or not but I replaced them as a set and Koni approved both after receiving them back and theoretically testing them. So big thumbs up to Koni as a brand from me. Lifetime *real* US-based warranty with cross shipping and everything.

Future plans: redoing my PS fluid flush because I did it wrong (didn't lift the wheels off the ground and turn them while doing the fluid flush). Nothing to write home about, just OCD about doing jobs right. Replacing the passenger sunvisor. I only did the driver sunvisor because it was worse but the passenger one is on its way out too and doesn't want to fold up smoothly. Also I'm replacing the interior light / sunglass pocket thing. It's "only" $30 and the original rattles. It may not be the last rattle in the car but it's one of the most obvious ones that I can make stop by lightly pushing the sunglass holder up. I'll transfer the lights and homelink and such over from old to new.

There is some wetness I saw on one of the PS hardline -> hose transitions while doing the FSB upgrade but I'm going to ignore for now unless I see the reservoir level drop. It's likely just some weeping that may have happened over the years.

Other than that I can settle in and enjoy the car. It already feels like a weapon in its ability to brake and take turns but that's just with short daily-commute driving and not much high speed / long freeway runs. Love that "squat and fire" feeling when giving it the full enchilada.

2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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post #156 of 157 Old 01-10-2018, 08:09 AM
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Armrest console done. 6 USB ports with 2 90 degree adapters, 3 way 12V splitter, 120V 150W outlet, 2 more USB ports that support QuickCharge 3.0 (flagship Android phones).

Audio is a ground isolation box, and a bluetooth->aux adapter that automatically powers itself on. I was previously using an Mpow device that required you to turn it on manually, that sucked.

Still compatible with the tray add on.



I'm waiting on wire to finish up the center console and power block distribution up front. Meanwhile I need to clean off the various sticky substances that spilled on the console over the years.

I love this whole setup. Is there any way you would be willing to do some sort of DIY with links or anything for those of us looking to do a similar thing in our own cars?
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post #157 of 157 Old 01-10-2018, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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I love this whole setup. Is there any way you would be willing to do some sort of DIY with links or anything for those of us looking to do a similar thing in our own cars?
Sure, here's a parts list of everything in my center console:

Inverter:



12V Splitter:



USB Hub:



Right angle USB adapter (x2):



Bluetooth audio:



Ground loop isolator:



USB quick charger:



And then a ton of velcro / double sided tape / zip ties to tidy everything up. The tray is the OEM console tray accessory with some one sided foam tape to cushion vibrations.
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2012 Accord EX-L AT V6 Sdn Crystal Black Pearl / Ivory (
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- CAI, J37 Intake + TB, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Intake Runners, RV6 HFPC + JPipe (Ceramic Coated), PCV filter
- Koni FSDs, Voodoo13 6 Control Arms, Rear Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing, 22mm Rear + Acura TL Front, Akebono Performance Pads, Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors, SS lines.

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