HOW I CURED MY 2010 ACCORD LXP from using oil - Page 3 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #31 of 122 Old 03-22-2017, 04:37 AM
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okay, so, after reading through this thread, I'm still curious about this process and would appreciate some clarification or corrections on any of my misunderstanding:

  1. Spark plugs are removed
  2. MMO (kerosene, or whatever solvent) is poured into the top of the cylinder
  3. Enough solvent has to be poured in to coat the ring's surface area so quantities may vary depending on V6 or i4
  4. After (x) amount of time, crank the engine to flush the solvent out through the spark plug openings (doesn't this make a mess? What is done to prevent the stuff from going all over the place?
  5. Reinstall plugs, start car, and drive WOT for a bit to burn off any remaining solvent
  6. change plugs and oil, ta dah!

I'm most curious about what is done at Step #4...thanks!



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post #32 of 122 Old 03-22-2017, 05:12 AM
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I hate to tell you this, but the V6 they stab in those is a ticking junk bomb.
I've got the V8. Not the V6. Bought it specifically for towing so I wouldn't want a truck that big with a whimpy V6.

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After (x) amount of time, crank the engine to flush the solvent out through the spark plug openings (doesn't this make a mess? What is done to prevent the stuff from going all over the place?
Personally I would use siphon pump to pull the oil back out through the plug holes. Like you, I wouldn't want to let the pistons just spit that out through the holes all over the block.

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post #33 of 122 Old 03-22-2017, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Blu3RSX View Post
okay, so, after reading through this thread, I'm still curious about this process and would appreciate some clarification or corrections on any of my misunderstanding:

  1. Spark plugs are removed
  2. MMO (kerosene, or whatever solvent) is poured into the top of the cylinder
  3. Enough solvent has to be poured in to coat the ring's surface area so quantities may vary depending on V6 or i4
  4. After (x) amount of time, crank the engine to flush the solvent out through the spark plug openings (doesn't this make a mess? What is done to prevent the stuff from going all over the place?
  5. Reinstall plugs, start car, and drive WOT for a bit to burn off any remaining solvent
  6. change plugs and oil, ta dah!

I'm most curious about what is done at Step #4...thanks!
Yeah that's what you do. I didn't change my oil, though, as I have just got it changed weeks ago on the Corolla.

Step 4 is done so there isn't too much cleaning agent in the cylinder, as it can cause misfiring or even hydrolocking if there is enough liquid in there. It kind of made a mess in my case, but most of the stuff will be gasoline so it evaporates rather quickly anyways. Also just don't really care about the mess on the Corolla anyways as the engine block is already kinda dirty. Just make sure you open the garage door if there is a mess.

Seafoam is a pretty good solvent so the goal is to just hope it can soak into the stuck rings, dissolve the gunk and free them.
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post #34 of 122 Old 03-22-2017, 06:43 PM
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I only used Seafoam and MMO once on my Accord when I first bought it. Now I don't use any additives on the Accord. I know modern engines are better and really don't need additives if they don't have any issues.

I use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra and Mobil1 Long Life filter on my Accord. Good stuff. I do use a dry aftermarket filter, but it's mostly because it's reusable and it filters almost as well as a stock one.

As for the Corolla... Well, at least 2 people here tried the Seafoam trick in similar engines(Camry and Celica) and it worked for them, so there is that. Seafoam is NOT snake oil if you look it up, but it's just pointless to put it in a newer engine that's not having issues.
When I said "snake oil" I was referring to the Zmax, I should have been more clear. Seafoam is an old skool engine cleaner that still works great. Won't fill imperfections, like restore, and if there is minor cracks and imperfections it'll actually clean them and make your oil burning issue worst. It just depends on the situation. Bottom line is if it's a sticky ring issue it could have been prevented by using only top tier fuel and running seafoam or and engine/fuel system cleaner of your choice once in awhile, that matched with a top quality oil and you shouldn't have any gouges in the cylinder walls which means no issues at all.
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post #35 of 122 Old 03-22-2017, 07:37 PM
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I read that article about the Zmax... not very happy.

On the other hand I'm curious why I does seem to do my engine some good.

So maybe I should just buy mineral oil and toss it in the engine. LOL

the real fix is to pull the engine and get new high compression pistons put in and bore the block. BUT i wanna get me a house first so until then I'll stick with the band-aid fix
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post #36 of 122 Old 03-23-2017, 12:21 PM
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I'd personally like to bore it out to a 4.0 if that's at all possible with the factory block.

There's no replacement for displacement, as the saying goes. ^_^


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post #37 of 122 Old 03-24-2017, 09:57 AM
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I imagine that would be too much meat off the sleeves compromising the structural integrity of the block.

may be possible on a j37 assembly though but I still have my doubts.

a 4.0 accord sounds super sexy though
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post #38 of 122 Old 03-24-2017, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu3RSX View Post
okay, so, after reading through this thread, I'm still curious about this process and would appreciate some clarification or corrections on any of my misunderstanding:

  1. Spark plugs are removed
  2. MMO (kerosene, or whatever solvent) is poured into the top of the cylinder
  3. Enough solvent has to be poured in to coat the ring's surface area so quantities may vary depending on V6 or i4
  4. After (x) amount of time, crank the engine to flush the solvent out through the spark plug openings (doesn't this make a mess? What is done to prevent the stuff from going all over the place?
  5. Reinstall plugs, start car, and drive WOT for a bit to burn off any remaining solvent
  6. change plugs and oil, ta dah!

I'm most curious about what is done at Step #4...thanks!
12 hours or so is a good soak time. Do it before bed, leave overnight, finish the job in the morning.

Also, you don't have to drive very far- 5 mile trip around the block is more than enough to burn off the residual.
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post #39 of 122 Old 03-24-2017, 12:38 PM
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So I guess I will start monitoring the oil level next fill-up, which will be soon as the Corolla is hitting the E on the fuel gauge.

For whatever reason, the new PCV valve I put on a while ago became loose and disconnected with the rubber gasket. My cabin smelled like engine oil for a good while when I am idling in traffic and I couldn't figure out why. I have no idea how that happened as I made sure I connected everything firmly when I did the PCV valve. I bought another gasket(the old one was destroyed when I was trying to retrieve it from inside the engine), made extra sure everything is connected firmly this time around, and sure enough, my cabin smells much better at idle.

I think that might have contributed to the oil loss a bit as I essentially had no PCV for a while and the oil vapor may have escaped from the unseated gasket. A quite dumb mistake to be honest. I will just fill up the gas and oil at the same time, monitor the oil level and report back.
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post #40 of 122 Old 04-15-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TopSniper69 View Post
When I said "snake oil" I was referring to the Zmax, I should have been more clear. Seafoam is an old skool engine cleaner that still works great. Won't fill imperfections, like restore, and if there is minor cracks and imperfections it'll actually clean them and make your oil burning issue worst. It just depends on the situation. Bottom line is if it's a sticky ring issue it could have been prevented by using only top tier fuel and running seafoam or and engine/fuel system cleaner of your choice once in awhile, that matched with a top quality oil and you shouldn't have any gouges in the cylinder walls which means no issues at all.
Well now, this implies something a bit different than pouring Seafoam into the top of the cylinders. Rather, it seems TopSniper is saying running Seafoam in a tank of gas occasionally will prevent, if not solve, oil burning issues. What does everyone think about that. I use nothing but Top Tier fuel but have never run Seafoam in anything other than my boat. Oil consumption seems to be increasing slowly.

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post #41 of 122 Old 04-15-2017, 04:06 PM
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Well now, this implies something a bit different than pouring Seafoam into the top of the cylinders. Rather, it seems TopSniper is saying running Seafoam in a tank of gas occasionally will prevent, if not solve, oil burning issues. What does everyone think about that. I use nothing but Top Tier fuel but have never run Seafoam in anything other than my boat. Oil consumption seems to be increasing slowly.
Close, I'm inferring that if you always run top tier fuel, and a fuel cleaner once in awhile it'll prevent sticky rings which leads to oil consumption. If your oil consumption issue is caused by something else well you're SOL. Running shitty oil could make your rings stick too and cause other oil consumption problem that can't be fixed without an engine rebuild.
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post #42 of 122 Old 04-15-2017, 05:19 PM
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Another component worth checking is the PCV valve. If that is clogged, you may have oil consumption issue as well, as the blow-by gas will have nowhere to go and push the oil into the combustion chambers.

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post #43 of 122 Old 04-22-2017, 06:30 PM
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Update: my Corolla is still an oil-burning piece of crap...

Well, I am selling it soon anyways. It was worth a try, and nothing of value was lost.

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post #44 of 122 Old 05-03-2017, 11:28 AM
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Running a high quality oil and oil filter will help prevent any oil consumption issues too. A high quality oil not only protects but also cleans deposits.

I only use top tier fuel.

I must add that I feel Chevron is one of the best. In my area there are Shells and Valeros too and I've used any of the 3 depending on where I was. Never really paid attention to it, cuz they'll all top teir, until I started getting code P0138 & P0139 after roughly 100 miles after filling up, I try to fill up when I have 1/2 tank and never let it go below 1/4 tank. I gotta add that I have PCDs installed with the de foulers, so this wouldn't have been noticed if I had the factory pre cats on. Anyway, once I fill up the CEL light would shut off shortly after. Realizing I was near to doing a tune up anyway I didn't pay any mind to it. Parts were ordered and I was just waiting till they arrived and I had a free weekend. Ok now, I filled up at Chevron and the light never came on, needed gas again and I was near Chevron so filled her up there again, still no CEL. Next I filled up at Shell or Valero, I can't remember, but I'm sure it wasn't a Chevron, also there's still alil over 1/4 tank of Chevron fuel still in the tank, CEL turned on after roughly 100 miles again. So now I'm thinking "no way". Does Chevron really burn that much cleaner? So the next fill up I made it a point to kinda go outta my way to hit a Chevron. Mind you it wasn't the normal Chevron I go to, to further test my theory, and sure as $h!t the CEL never came on. So I'll be going to Chevron as often as possible from now on.

After all this, I've never encountered any oil consumption and I'm alil over 100k miles now. Did the tune up and as expected the CEL no longer comes on at all ever. Car still runs like a champ!
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post #45 of 122 Old 05-04-2017, 08:29 AM
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Another component worth checking is the PCV valve. If that is clogged, you may have oil consumption issue as well, as the blow-by gas will have nowhere to go and push the oil into the combustion chambers.

Sent via MHA-L29. Whatever.
I plan on replacing my PCV valve (after 102,000 miles) but, you know what, it seems to be impossible to find a HONDA DEALER that has one in stock. Had my B14 service performed Monday. While there, I went to the parts desk to get my spark plugs and a PCV valve. The guy said they would need to order the valve. Same thing at the other Honda dealer in town. WTF. Can't even find it in the Honda ePartsStore. Also I'm sure you guys who have looked at that website have noticed the Honda parts drawings are pathetic, quality-wise.


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