HOW I CURED MY 2010 ACCORD LXP from using oil - Page 2 - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #16 of 122 Old 03-17-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Miker View Post
60° V6 would only require you to jack up to compensate for the 60° angle. Maybe a ramp would do it for you. 90° v6 or v8 gonna be a little more troublesome.

Or overfill the cylinder to compensate for the angle. Not as complete coverage for the entire circumference of the cylinder, as in a straight up and down vertical 4 cylinder, but it will soak MOST of the ring.

Of course the "extreme volume of kerosene (or MMO Mystery Marvel Oil) " would cause you to really make sure you drain the engine oil following this operation.
I don't have the V6 so I'm good. I was just throwing that out there. The MMO doesn't force an oil draining. MMO is an oil additive that they suggest to add a qt at every oil change.

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post #17 of 122 Old 03-18-2017, 07:02 AM
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yea I saw an infomercial on Zmax WAY WY back and laughed at the whole thing.

Then I did some research (ten years ago) and decided to do it. Sure enough it worked. Engine was more quiet and burned a bit less oil (my oil car murdered oil).

On my last car (my acura cl-s auto) it did not burn a drop of oil so i never used Z Max. But with the car I have now, with it burning oil. I had to try. And sure enough, + results once again.

If you look at similar product they are all about lubrication. Z Max works on a different level soaking into the metal which is how it gives such positive results. So from now on, every oil change I put in a bottle of the engine formula and all is good.


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post #18 of 122 Old 03-18-2017, 07:18 AM
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So this is the second reference to this product "soaking into the metal".

Please someone explain how this magic liquid can soak into metal. Not saying it doesn't fix whatever is ailing your motor, but soaking into metal? Come on!

So there's that.

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post #19 of 122 Old 03-18-2017, 09:34 AM
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The only problem with a V6 or V8 is that the cylinders aren't straight up and down so it's a bit tougher to do the same cylinder soaking. Don't know if your Chrysler has a V engine or not but I figured I'd throw it out there.
Yes, it is a V8. I understand it won't be the same due to cylinders not being flat. Of course I could just do like Miker said and fill it more. Anything that is a "Possibility" of a fix without having to do a complete engine rebuild is a plus for me. Appreciate the heads up though.
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post #20 of 122 Old 03-18-2017, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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soaking into metal seems impossible. maybe it counts filling in hair line depresions and such. I never used ZMax but the
debate that came up in this additive conversation sparked me to research it. here is a copy and paste from Carbibles.com

on 20th March 2003, Speedway Motorsports Inc. (TRK) and Oil-Chem Research Corp., the manufacturers of zMax, announced that they had settled their dispute with the FTC. The Concord, North Carolina-based Speedway said that the dispute was concerning the advertising of zMAX Power System. Marylaurel E. Wilks, VP and general counsel said, "We at Speedway Motorsports are very pleased that the staff of the Federal Trade Commission has specifically confirmed that Oil-Chem can continue to make the following claims in its advertising and promotion of zMAX:".
zMAX soaks into metal,
zMAX reduces friction,
zMAX increases horsepower,
zMAX dissipates engine heat,
zMAX helps to improve or restore gas mileage and reduce emissions in older cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits,
zMAX helps to maintain gas mileage and emissions in newer cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits,
zMAX helps to reduce engine wear on engine valve-stems and guides and piston rings and skirts, by virtue of reducing engine deposits,
zMAX helps to extend engine life, by virtue of reducing engine deposits.
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post #21 of 122 Old 03-19-2017, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sdanville View Post
soaking into metal seems impossible. maybe it counts filling in hair line depresions and such.

I went ahead and bought a bottle today at the local Canadian Tires as 08 v6/6 has given some helpful info. I mean, I have nothing to lose on the Corolla. It burns a crap ton of oil, so things cannot really get worse on that car.

Anyways, you are absolutely right about the definition of "soaking into metal". It fills out the tiny cracks in the metal.


I also poured a bit of Seafoam into the 4 cylinders of the Corolla. I will see how the combined efforts of the two products turn out.
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post #22 of 122 Old 03-19-2017, 09:10 PM
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please let us know. I doubt it will cure the oil burning but I am pretty sure it will make thing better than they were before.

It would be nice to see my results replicated.

08 EX-L V6/6
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post #23 of 122 Old 03-19-2017, 09:12 PM
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it would be nice to see my results replicated on another vehicle.

let us know how she goes in a few 1000 miles

08 EX-L V6/6
Performance : Dyno Tuned Ktuner, Fastline ss clutch line & powerlinks, P2R gaskets, EBC green pads, XLR8 ss brake lines, Progress 22mm rsb, HSD coilovers, Blox 15mm rear spacers,
Power : RV6 hfpc, XLR8 V2 j-pipe, Injen cai, Unorthodox pulley, P2R pnp runners Magnaflow cbe, tl sh awd tb, j37 manifold
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post #24 of 122 Old 03-19-2017, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08 v6/6 View Post
please let us know. I doubt it will cure the oil burning but I am pretty sure it will make thing better than they were before.

It would be nice to see my results replicated.
I understand it won't completely fix the problem. That's why I said nobody should expect it to 100% fix a problem in the first reply.

All I want is a reduction in oil consumption. You haven't seen the spark plugs I pulled out today. It's all fouled up, and I just changed them like 1600 km(1000 miles) ago! Not good. Like CGumina said before, a lot of 1ZZ-FE engines have engine oil consumption issues.

And you seem to do research on the stuff you buy. Usually, I don't buy oil and fuel additives unless I see some proofs. ChrisFix did 2 videos on Seafoam, and that's why I trust it. I think I will take your words for the zMax.

I will definitely keep an eye on the oil level. I typically check it in the gas station when I get gas. I think it burns about a quart/litre every 500 km/310 miles(40 litres/10.5 gallons of gas).

As for the kerosene trick, I heard kerosene can eat up all the seals in the engine, and that's why it shouldn't be attempted.

If I ever need to soak the cylinders on my Accord(transverse V6), I will just use the ramp of my driveway. A longitudinal V8 engine might be trickier since you will have to park it sideways... As for a horizontal engine, yeah I've got nothing...
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post #25 of 122 Old 03-20-2017, 03:07 AM
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Your copy and paste from some website is a partial truth and that, in my book, is a lie (YOU are not lying, but we should print the whole truth)! Many car forums have that same writing pasted in it over and over again.....hmmm?....the lawsuit was settled only when zmax showed it won't HARM an engine, not that it has a single benefit.

Zmax paid out $1 million....

Here is the MSDS sheet: 99% mineral oil.

Snake oil....



Yes, you get the same benefit from mineral oil.
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post #26 of 122 Old 03-20-2017, 08:57 AM
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Wow this thread took off with alotta old skool ideas and some snake oil waste of time.

The only additive I ever used, that worked, was engine restore, it fills the micro scratches and cracks. This was back when my friends and I were young and could only afford used high mileage vehicles. The only difference between the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and 8 cylinder version was the amount. If your oil burning issue was extreme we'd go 2 sizes up, and so forth.

Now for non high mileage cars, the easiest way to make sure you don't run into stuck rings and dirty engines is to only run top tier fuel -

Next, along with top tier fuel, is to run an oil that is high on lubricating additives, and anti wear additives with of course a great oil filter. Cars now a days go 7,500 - 10,000 miles between oil changes, why not spend that extra $20 per oil change to make sure your baby is getting the best?
In my 09 Accord 6-6, I run Amsoil signature series 5w-20, I buy it by the 4 gallon case to get the best price. Match that with Purolator pure 1 oil filter and it comes out to around $55 an oil change, IF you do it yourself.

Lastly is a quality air filter, ANY aftermarket air filter that "out flows the stock air filter" also allows more dirt and grime to pass through. ACDelco always does good during tests and is the best on the last test I saw done.
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post #27 of 122 Old 03-20-2017, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopSniper69 View Post
Wow this thread took off with alotta old skool ideas and some snake oil waste of time.

The only additive I ever used, that worked, was engine restore, it fills the micro scratches and cracks. This was back when my friends and I were young and could only afford used high mileage vehicles. The only difference between the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and 8 cylinder version was the amount. If your oil burning issue was extreme we'd go 2 sizes up, and so forth.

Now for non high mileage cars, the easiest way to make sure you don't run into stuck rings and dirty engines is to only run top tier fuel -

Next, along with top tier fuel, is to run an oil that is high on lubricating additives, and anti wear additives with of course a great oil filter. Cars now a days go 7,500 - 10,000 miles between oil changes, why not spend that extra $20 per oil change to make sure your baby is getting the best?
In my 09 Accord 6-6, I run Amsoil signature series 5w-20, I buy it by the 4 gallon case to get the best price. Match that with Purolator pure 1 oil filter and it comes out to around $55 an oil change, IF you do it yourself.

Lastly is a quality air filter, ANY aftermarket air filter that "out flows the stock air filter" also allows more dirt and grime to pass through. ACDelco always does good during tests and is the best on the last test I saw done.
I only used Seafoam and MMO once on my Accord when I first bought it. Now I don't use any additives on the Accord. I know modern engines are better and really don't need additives if they don't have any issues.

I use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra and Mobil1 Long Life filter on my Accord. Good stuff. I do use a dry aftermarket filter, but it's mostly because it's reusable and it filters almost as well as a stock one.

As for the Corolla... Well, at least 2 people here tried the Seafoam trick in similar engines(Camry and Celica) and it worked for them, so there is that. Seafoam is NOT snake oil if you look it up, but it's just pointless to put it in a newer engine that's not having issues.
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post #28 of 122 Old 03-20-2017, 05:30 PM
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I only used Seafoam and MMO once on my Accord when I first bought it. Now I don't use any additives on the Accord. I know modern engines are better and really don't need additives if they don't have any issues.

I use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra and Mobil1 Long Life filter on my Accord. Good stuff. I do use a dry aftermarket filter, but it's mostly because it's reusable and it filters almost as well as a stock one.

As for the Corolla... Well, at least 2 people here tried the Seafoam trick in similar engines(Camry and Celica) and it worked for them, so there is that. Seafoam is NOT snake oil if you look it up, but it's just pointless to put it in a newer engine that's not having issues.
I wouldn't trust everything Chris Fix says or recommends. A few of his videos are questionable IMO. And some of the products he recommends are given to him to use in his videos.

Regarding air filters - how often do you clean/change an engine air filter? Most people do so every year or two or even three. And it takes all of 5 minutes to do so and replaceable filters are cheap. To each his own but I'd rather not use an air filter that doesn't filter as well as OEM only to have to clean it every now and then when a simple replacement is so easy to do. Especially as there is zero proof that the OEM filter is a restriction in the first place.
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post #29 of 122 Old 03-20-2017, 05:54 PM
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I wouldn't trust everything Chris Fix says or recommends. A few of his videos are questionable IMO. And some of the products he recommends are given to him to use in his videos.

Regarding air filters - how often do you clean/change an engine air filter? Most people do so every year or two or even three. And it takes all of 5 minutes to do so and replaceable filters are cheap. To each his own but I'd rather not use an air filter that doesn't filter as well as OEM only to have to clean it every now and then when a simple replacement is so easy to do. Especially as there is zero proof that the OEM filter is a restriction in the first place.
He did say that he bought the Seafoam on his own, and he did a few videos on other products he bought as well. Some of them worked, and some of them didn't. If it's sponsored then it can be biased, but then a lot of the Amazon reviews are also sponsored nowadays...

I check once half a year or so just to see how dirty it is. There is an official test someone did years ago that determined that the OEM is the most restrictive but also is the most effective at blocking dirt and dust. With the air filter, I suppose just do your research and then decide. Some people swear by CAI, others swear by OEM. I stand somewhere in between with a drop-in filter, and so far I have no issues with it.
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post #30 of 122 Old 03-21-2017, 11:25 AM
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Good to hear. I've got an 08' Chrysler Aspen that's using a quart every 600-800 miles. As usual, Chrysler techs say this is normal. I disagree. I suspect it to be rings as well. Might have to give this a shot.
I hate to tell you this, but the V6 they stab in those is a ticking junk bomb.



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