Accidently used brake cleaner to clean throttle body... - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 57 Old 01-01-2017, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Accidently used brake cleaner to clean throttle body...

I have a 2009 EX-L 4cyl AT. Call me an idiot, I know, but I used brake cleaner to clean my throttle body. Ever since this the car has been running weirdly, especially the way it shifts. When I'm slowing down to a stop it downshifts rough, lurching the car forward, or if I let off the gas at slow speeds, it'll lurch, jerk. I'm also getting horrible gas mileage now, I used to get 630km to a tank, now I get 500km. It did trigger the CEL to come on, which ended up being the IAC, but the CEL has since went out. Believe me, Ive been hitting myself in the head for this one! Any help on what I should do would be great, thanks!


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post #2 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 04:36 AM
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I have a 2009 EX-L 4cyl AT. Call me an idiot, I know, but I used brake cleaner to clean my throttle body. Ever since this the car has been running weirdly, especially the way it shifts. When I'm slowing down to a stop it downshifts rough, lurching the car forward, or if I let off the gas at slow speeds, it'll lurch, jerk. I'm also getting horrible gas mileage now, I used to get 630km to a tank, now I get 500km. It did trigger the CEL to come on, which ended up being the IAC, but the CEL has since went out. Believe me, Ive been hitting myself in the head for this one! Any help on what I should do would be great, thanks!
How did you clean the tb ? On the engine or removed from engine?

If you took it off to clean it, did you remove power at the battery prior to unplugging it?

Does the 09 use fly by wire or cable on the tb?

You may need to relearn the tb but you may have also buggered up the tps. EDIT: meaning it is not synced with the pedal.

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post #3 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmjake View Post
I have a 2009 EX-L 4cyl AT. Call me an idiot, I know, but I used brake cleaner to clean my throttle body. Ever since this the car has been running weirdly, especially the way it shifts. When I'm slowing down to a stop it downshifts rough, lurching the car forward, or if I let off the gas at slow speeds, it'll lurch, jerk. I'm also getting horrible gas mileage now, I used to get 630km to a tank, now I get 500km. It did trigger the CEL to come on, which ended up being the IAC, but the CEL has since went out. Believe me, Ive been hitting myself in the head for this one! Any help on what I should do would be great, thanks!
In addition to Mikers comments I would ask you, how many KMs are on the car and have you ever changed the transmission fluid. Old fluid will make it shift differently. I know you said you noticed the shifting change after you sprayed the TB, but consider changing the fluid if you have more than 80,000 km on the car and if it has never been changed.
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post #4 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 07:28 AM
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Throttle body cleaner and brake cleaner are almost the same thing. I doubt that was the cause of these symptoms. How did you clean the TB? Did you just spray the cleaner into the intake? If yes, was there any chance you sprayed the cleaner onto the MAF sensor? If yes, you might try cleaning the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor spray. If you removed the TB to clean it, which is the only way to really clean it, did you make sure all hoses/wires were reinstalled correctly? As stated, I doubt the brake cleaner is the cause of these symptoms.
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post #5 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 08:08 AM
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IMHO I would never clean the tb with a spray. It can actually collect the gunk and drop it into spots that are not cleanable.

From my Personal experience, The only time I ever cleaned a tb was with the proper cleaner, and it mucked it up. And that was on a 94 Ford probe GT.

When I did my manifold and tb swap I did not unplug the battery. I also installed a tb spacer on my brothers 08 tls and did not disconnect the battery as well. No issues whatsoever.

Sounds like the tb is buggered up now. Or like others were saying it could have something to do with the maf.

Sorry bud, you live and you learn though. Could be much more expensive at the end of the day, just stay positive.
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post #6 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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I cleaned the tb while on the car. I didn't disconnect the battery until after I was done to reset the ecu. But still hasn't helped by doing so. Not sure if it uses the fly by wire or cable on the tb. And if it messed up the tps, wouldnt that throw a CEL? How can I relearn the tb? Thanks.

The car has 170km on it. Im not sure when it was last changed as im the second owner. But I was actually thinking of changing it though for peace of mind. Thanks.

I cleaned the tb while on the car. The maf sensor is about 14 inches away from the tb so i doubt it was affected, plus if it was shouldnt it throw a cel? not sure why the car is acting up... another guy mentioned the tps? but wouldnt that give me a cel? thanks.

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post #7 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 09:03 AM
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That year of car has fly by wire. If you moved the butterfly thingy by hand (which you probably did) that's a big no no and you probably have to replace/reprogram.
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post #8 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 09:08 AM
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My '07 uses an electro-mechanical TB ("drive-by-wire") so I'm sure that's what the OP's engine has. There is a way to re-learn the idle and it needs to be done after cleaning the TB. Search and ye shall find. Something like keeping the RPM's at a certain speed until the fans come on, I think. The RPM's are high enough that you can't hear the fans when they come on so a helper may be needed.
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post #9 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jdmjake View Post
I cleaned the tb while on the car. I didn't disconnect the battery until after I was done to reset the ecu. But still hasn't helped by doing so. Not sure if it uses the fly by wire or cable on the tb. And if it messed up the tps, wouldnt that throw a CEL? How can I relearn the tb? Thanks.
Did you open the butterfly by hand or have someone step on the pedal to open it?

Fly by wire needs to have the pedal open the throttle. if you move the throttle by hand with fly by wire it does something to the tps and now the pedal doesnt relate to the throttle position. FBW throttle only needs to be in position II (engine not running) to move the plate, then you clean it. Use a stick or your favorite friend to hold the pedal down while cleaning the plate.

Throttle Body Relearn Procedure? shows how to relearn the IDLE (I should have said this, not TB relearn) Reset the PCM with the battery cable trick.
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post #10 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 09:16 AM
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All of these videos seem to give the same instructions to “relearn” the PCM ….hope it helps



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post #11 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 09:18 AM
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All of these videos seem to give the same instructions to “relearn” the PCM ….hope it helps





tagged "idle relearn" for future searches

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post #12 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I did open the butterfly by hand to clean it . Can you explain what you mean by the PCM reset with battery trick? Is that separate from the idle relearn procedure? And with the idle relearn procedure, do I do it when the car is already warm or cold? Thanks.

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post #13 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 10:09 AM
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Yes I did open the butterfly by hand to clean it . Can you explain what you mean by the PCM reset with battery trick? Is that separate from the idle relearn procedure? And with the idle relearn procedure, do I do it when the car is already warm or cold? Thanks.
PCM reset is separate or in conjunction with idle relearn. Good starting point.

Remove both cables from the battery. IMPORTANT

Short them together for 10 seconds. (some folks will also step on brake pedal or try to start car, to quicken PCM drain)

Reconnect them to the battery as usual.

What's it doing? Shorting out the two cables drains all the stored energy (capacitors) and any stored junk in the PCM. (ever do that with a plug in radio? unplug it and turn it on quickly and it will jump to life for a second or so? Stored energy gets drained out quickly.)

IDLE Relearn temperature I don't know. I've always done it cold and I can tell a difference in response of the input of the pedal. So I guess I really don't know if it matters though. I always assumed (leave it alone) you do this after cleaning or working on the engine, so it's cold anyway.

Anyone?
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post #14 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Okay I'm about to go do both these procedures starting with the PCM. Now with the PCM can I just unhook both terminals and get in the car and press the brake and gas to drain it? I'm not sure about shorting out the battery, or how to do it.

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post #15 of 57 Old 01-02-2017, 12:11 PM
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Okay I'm about to go do both these procedures starting with the PCM. Now with the PCM can I just unhook both terminals and get in the car and press the brake and gas to drain it? I'm not sure about shorting out the battery, or how to do it.
Gadzooks!!!

DON'T SHORT THE BATTERY POSTS

SHORT THE CABLES TO EACH OTHER

NO GAS just hit the brakes.

Better yet just touch the two cables together for 30 seconds and completely forget about the brakes.

Reply when you read this


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"vita est brevis, vado pro V6" - Me
"Speak only when you feel that your words are better than your silence." - Anonymous
"Either write something worth reading, or do something worth writing."- Benjamin Franklin
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