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post #1 of 22 Old 11-09-2009, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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wheel bearing problem

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I have 98 accord,ex,4 cyl,170k miles on it.I have FRONT wheel bearing gone bad.How easy to change it by myself.Meinake gave me 270$ estimation.Do i need just a wheel bearing or the hub assembly?.I guess the bearing is sealed in the hub.Is it right?.

Can some one please send me a how to do guide?.

thanks


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post #2 of 22 Old 11-09-2009, 09:46 AM
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I had my front wheel bearing done about 4yrs ago at the dealer for $250 with 6.75 sales tax included. I remember reading the front ones are more difficult to replace versus the back ones. This happend around 75k the other 3 were fine till I sold the car with 166k on it.

Someone else will have to step in for the rest of your questions.

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post #3 of 22 Old 11-09-2009, 10:22 AM
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you need to compress the bearing on and off so regardless if you do it on your own your going to need to take it somewhere to get it compressed. the dealership replaced my two front ones at 250 a piece. i would get a quote from your dealership



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post #4 of 22 Old 11-09-2009, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda98 View Post
Friends
I have 98 accord,ex,4 cyl,170k miles on it.I have FRONT wheel bearing gone bad.How easy to change it by myself.Meinake gave me 270$ estimation.Do i need just a wheel bearing or the hub assembly?.I guess the bearing is sealed in the hub.Is it right?.

Can some one please send me a how to do guide?.

thanks
Unless you have a hub shark or a press you can't complete the job yourself.

Lift and safely support the car.

Remove tire. Have someone hold the brake on while you loosen the axle nut. (this is assuming you don't have air powered tools)

Remove:
-Brake assembly
-Rotor
-Wheelspeed sensor.
-All bolts for brake hose and wheelspeed sensor wiring.
-3 cotter pins, and 3 nuts for upper ball joint, lower ball joint and tie rod end.
-Using suitable tool, break tapers of the ball joints and tie rods, DON'T hit the threaded ends.
-Lift up knuckle off lower ball joint and slide axle out of hub.

You need either a hub shark or press at this point

-Using a press, press the hub out of the bearing.
-remove the snap ring retainer from the knuckle.
-using a press, press the bearing out of the hub, it only goes out and in ONE way.
-cut off the inner race that will be stuck to the hub, don't damage the hub
-now clean up the inside of the knuckle, and lube it with some grease (thin film)
-press in the new wheel bearing, until it bottoms
-put in the snap ring (reuse)
-support the inner race of the inside of the wheel bearing
-press in the old hub into the new bearing until it bottoms

-now bring the whole thing back to the car and put it together

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post #5 of 22 Old 11-10-2009, 12:48 PM
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I am going thru the same issue today. My front driver side hub is bad. Man everybody wants an arm and leg to replace them. I need to find someone that can do it for a good price.

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post #6 of 22 Old 12-26-2009, 07:35 PM
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Hmmm, I may be having the same issue. How are you guys determining they're bad?

On mine the right front tire was wearing funny compared to the other three. I thought it was an alignment issue as the car seemed to push to the left. Took it to Firestone for alignment and they informed me the right front tire has a lot of "wriggle" in it and said it needs a new right front wheel bearing. I think they wanted about $300 to do the job. I told them I'd look in to it myself, but it doesn't sound like something I can do with standard air tools.

Even after alignment it still pushes to the left. I'm gonna try rotating the front tires to the back to eliminate those as the culprit.

1999 Honda Accord EX with 137,800 miles.

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post #7 of 22 Old 12-26-2009, 07:50 PM
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If there's lateral or axial play in the wheel and it's not the ball joints or tie rod ends, it can only be the bearing.

It's going to pull left, as the camber on the right wheel will be excessively negative due to the tilt of the tire once weight is placed on it.

Do you hear any whine/growl from the right front when turning to the left?

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post #8 of 22 Old 12-26-2009, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
If there's lateral or axial play in the wheel and it's not the ball joints or tie rod ends, it can only be the bearing.

It's going to pull left, as the camber on the right wheel will be excessively negative due to the tilt of the tire once weight is placed on it.

Do you hear any whine/growl from the right front when turning to the left?
I don't really hear any noise, but the car isn't the quietest vehicle either.

It does sometimes feel like it falls into a hole when turning hard left.

I'll get it up on jackstands tomorrow and see how much play is in the wheel.

-Speedy
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post #9 of 22 Old 12-26-2009, 09:29 PM
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Just great, my Honda ESM won't open on my new Windows 7 PC. I sure miss the days when the electronic manuals were PDF files.

-Speedy
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post #10 of 22 Old 01-01-2010, 03:07 PM
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Ok, I jacked up the front of the car today to have a look. I can feel about 1/8" of play in the passenger side front. I don't feel any in the driver's side front.

I turned the radio off and turned hard left and I don't hear any noise other than the normal tire noise. This 99' Accord is pretty noisy as it is so I'm not sure I'd hear wheel bearing noise anyway.

What do you guys think about the 1/8" play in the wheel? Bad enough to fix it or leave it be?

-Speedy
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post #11 of 22 Old 01-01-2010, 03:34 PM
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ANY perceptable play on the wheel bearing is a bad sign, I am not exactly certain in what failure mode the wheel is going to be if and when the bearing race within the bearing comes apart and jams bits of metal in between the little ball bearings.

It can't be any good, and should definitely be replaced.

Yes it's not cheap for the labour cost, but after watching my favorite shop replace both front wheel bearings on my Integra, it's worth every penny I paid for their labor and expertise. There are certain automotive jobs I won't tackle, this is definitely one of them!

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post #12 of 22 Old 01-01-2010, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Aviography View Post
ANY perceptable play on the wheel bearing is a bad sign, I am not exactly certain in what failure mode the wheel is going to be if and when the bearing race within the bearing comes apart and jams bits of metal in between the little ball bearings.

It can't be any good, and should definitely be replaced.

Yes it's not cheap for the labour cost, but after watching my favorite shop replace both front wheel bearings on my Integra, it's worth every penny I paid for their labor and expertise. There are certain automotive jobs I won't tackle, this is definitely one of them!
Thanks...I'm going to shop around for rates on the replacement, but I've got air tools and getting the hub off the car looks pretty simple. I'd then take it to a machine shop to press out the old bearing and press in the new.

Firestone wanted $247 for the job plus tax. That was charging $100 for the bearing alone. Advance Auto had the bearing for $35 when I went by there today.

-Speedy
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post #13 of 22 Old 01-01-2010, 06:46 PM
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Thanks...I'm going to shop around for rates on the replacement, but I've got air tools and getting the hub off the car looks pretty simple. I'd then take it to a machine shop to press out the old bearing and press in the new.

Firestone wanted $247 for the job plus tax. That was charging $100 for the bearing alone. Advance Auto had the bearing for $35 when I went by there today.
That is the way I would do it. Getting the hub off is pretty straight forward and should not take too much time. I am thinking it shouldn't cost more than $20 to press the new bearing on and off.

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post #14 of 22 Old 01-21-2010, 05:00 PM
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Ok, here is a follow-up since it's a huge pet peeve of mine to find threads like this where no one ever posts back what they did.

So here goes...

I took my car to my favorite Honda shop for a second opinion to make sure it was in fact the wheel bearing. Yep, it was...and they said when replacing one, you should really replace both and quoted me $606 for the whole job parts and labor...YIKES.

Called a local Good Year and was quoted $515 for the whole job. OUCH.

Firestone also wanted $515 for the whole job.

A local Tire World wanted $450 for the entire job.

Neither GoodYear nor Firestone would let me bring my own parts, nor would they press in the bearings for me if I brought in the disassembled knuckle, but they did recommend a place that WOULD press the bearings in.

I called two shops, both wanted $30 - $40 to press in the bearing per side. However, one of the shops said they'd do the whole job for $100 per side labor only and I could bring my own parts. The work would be garaunteed, but not the parts themselves. FINE BY ME.

I was dead set on doing this myself, but after being quoted $200 + tax to do the entire install with my parts, it didn't seem worth it considering I'd have to pay $60 - $80 just to get the bearings pressed in. I would have also had to buy a breaker bar ($20) and a 36mm impact socket ($20) for the axle nut to do the job myself.

I swung by Advance Auto and picked up two wheel bearings for $36 each, two axle nuts for $7 each, and a box of small cotter pins for $2, dropped the car off at the shop and 4 hours later it was ready.

I'm AMAZED at how quiet the car is now. The bearings must have really been gone as it used to roar as I drove down the road. I always thought it was the tires or lack of noise damping in the car.

When I got home I put the car up on jacks and checked the work the shop did and it was good. Cotter pins were bent properly, the axle nut was staked properly, and I found no signs of them beating on the ball joints to get them loose, so they DID use a puller as specified.

Total cost tax and all for parts and labor was $316.33. Well worth it to keep this car going and the ride and NVH is MUCH better. Current mileage is 138,720.

Just goes to show you how much money you can save if you shop around, and that some jobs aren't worth your own personal time as I'd have only saved $75 - $80 doing this myself.

-Speedy
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post #15 of 22 Old 02-07-2010, 03:47 AM
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Ok, here is a follow-up since it's a huge pet peeve of mine to find threads like this where no one ever posts back what they did.

So here goes...

I took my car to my favorite Honda shop for a second opinion to make sure it was in fact the wheel bearing. Yep, it was...and they said when replacing one, you should really replace both and quoted me $606 for the whole job parts and labor...YIKES.

Called a local Good Year and was quoted $515 for the whole job. OUCH.

Firestone also wanted $515 for the whole job.

A local Tire World wanted $450 for the entire job.

Neither GoodYear nor Firestone would let me bring my own parts, nor would they press in the bearings for me if I brought in the disassembled knuckle, but they did recommend a place that WOULD press the bearings in.

I called two shops, both wanted $30 - $40 to press in the bearing per side. However, one of the shops said they'd do the whole job for $100 per side labor only and I could bring my own parts. The work would be garaunteed, but not the parts themselves. FINE BY ME.

I was dead set on doing this myself, but after being quoted $200 + tax to do the entire install with my parts, it didn't seem worth it considering I'd have to pay $60 - $80 just to get the bearings pressed in. I would have also had to buy a breaker bar ($20) and a 36mm impact socket ($20) for the axle nut to do the job myself.

I swung by Advance Auto and picked up two wheel bearings for $36 each, two axle nuts for $7 each, and a box of small cotter pins for $2, dropped the car off at the shop and 4 hours later it was ready.

I'm AMAZED at how quiet the car is now. The bearings must have really been gone as it used to roar as I drove down the road. I always thought it was the tires or lack of noise damping in the car.

When I got home I put the car up on jacks and checked the work the shop did and it was good. Cotter pins were bent properly, the axle nut was staked properly, and I found no signs of them beating on the ball joints to get them loose, so they DID use a puller as specified.

Total cost tax and all for parts and labor was $316.33. Well worth it to keep this car going and the ride and NVH is MUCH better. Current mileage is 138,720.

Just goes to show you how much money you can save if you shop around, and that some jobs aren't worth your own personal time as I'd have only saved $75 - $80 doing this myself.

Huge help, thanks for the update.

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