98 Accord Transmission problem need help! - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-25-2008, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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98 Accord Transmission problem need help!

Hey folks.

I got a used 1998 Accord V6LX one month ago with 110k on it. The car runs good at begining, but recently, it slips SOMETIMES(High rpm with low speed) on D4. Someone told me its transmission problem and expensive to repair.

Im graduate student so can not afford much mony to rebuild or replace a new transmission. So I am wondering how long can the transimission last? It does slips sometimes but I hope it can work for at least 1 year. BTW, can transmission flush make something good on it? Is there anything I can do to make it better or last longer? Only rebuild? How about only using D5?


Thanks very much!

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-25-2008, 04:15 PM
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when they start neutraling out at low speed, like when going around low speed corners and accelerating and they rev up and then bang into gear the trans is probably on it's way out.
there has been debris in the unit that's gotten into things causing wear and pressure loss.

you can change the fluid several times to see if it helps. Drain it, fill it. Drive it for a short while and repeat 3 times.

DO NOT have the unit flushed with one of the wallet flushing machines. It'll only stir up more crap an circulate it in the unit.

If you can find a trans shop that is intimately familiar with Honda autos you can try to see if they can diagnose it or rebuild it.

But, by the time you're done you'll be damn close to the price of a replacement unit. If they don't find the root cause of the flaring/neutraling, the "rebuilt" will continue to do the same thing.

I know through HEC you can buy a unit with 3 levels of warranty up to 50k and 50 months (may have longer now) and their quality is VERY good.


btw, you don't have a D5 position. It's only a 4 speed.

Has the 105k service been done on the car, i.e. timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires etc......?


Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

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post #3 of 11 Old 02-25-2008, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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It seems that the timing belt has not changed yet. The previous told me it could be changed at 150k. Are you sure it should be changed at 105k? Where can I change it? dealship?
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-25-2008, 06:59 PM
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I'd venture to guess the previous owner was in to "deferred maintenance"

The timing belt should be changed at 7 years or 105k whichever comes first.
If the car is used in extreme hot weather constantly, it should be changed earlier.

150k is pushing belt breaking territory, if it does break, you might as well throw the car away.

This is what should be done at 105k:

Timing belt and water pump (it's driven by the timing belt and if it won't go to the second belt, you're paying the labor all over again) The timing belt idler and tension roller need to be checked for bearing smoothness, and the hydraulic tensioner should be very carefully inspected or replaced. The coolant is replaced with new at this time.
The two engine accessory belts should be changed since they have to come off anyway, unless recently done.

The spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor need to be done if not already.

The valves need adjusting, more than likely the exhausts are getting very tight. While the intake manifold is off for cam cover removal, the egr port should be cleaned out.

Any competent shop that does Honda cars can do this as well as the dealer, pretty much the only difference if any, is labor per hour pricing.

Only Honda OEM parts should be used. I've found they will last till the 210k interval without a problem. I can't say that for aftermarket stuff, that's for sure. And from what I've been seeing, there's no real difference in prices.

You can break it up into two services if you need to, t-belt, pump and the related stuff.

Then do the "tune-up" and valve adjustment later, most of the "tune-up" related parts have to come off to get the intake and cam covers off anyway.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-25-2008, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thx a lot! So normally how much for this kind of service in dealership? I am in NC.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-25-2008, 09:10 PM
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Fredsvt,

What are the symptoms of the torque converter lining or linear solenoid failing? Have you seen many of these? Just another option to throw out there.

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post #7 of 11 Old 02-26-2008, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruoyang View Post
Thx a lot! So normally how much for this kind of service in dealership? I am in NC.
Since it's a V6, you're probably looking at $800-1100.

A Honda Specialist (google it + your city and state) might be able to lower the cost, though honestly, I've yet to find anything 'that' dramatic in price difference.

2001's have transmission warranty extensions. Private message or post your vin number so I can check recall status for you. There's a good chance that it's covered or partially covered as Honda acknowledges there's a problem.

Here's the rundown of touble spots for the 1998-2002 Accord

Trouble Spots

Consumer Guide's Auto Editors have scoured repair bulletins and questioned mechanics to search for commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however, we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems.

Airbags: The airbag warning light may come on if a cell phone or laptop computer is plugged into the accessory power socket. (2002)

Automatic transmission: On V6 models, transmissions may fail due to lack of thread-locking compound on nut for low clutch. Honda/Acura has extended warranty on affected vehicles to 7 years or 100,000 miles. (1999-2002)

Automatic transmission: Four-speed automatic transmission may shift late or erratically when cold due to faulty linear (pressure control) solenoid. (2002-04)


Blower motor: Blower motor overheats, blows the fuse and may melt the fan because motor cooling hose becomes clogged. (1990-04)

Brakes: The brake light may not go off. The cause is a saturated float in the master cylinder that should be replaced under warranty or beyond. (1998)

Check-engine light: "Check Engine light may glow on vehicles used where salt is used on the roads because the EVAP solenoid fails. (1998-02)

Oil leak: Oil leaks from multiple locations including bolt holes on V6 engines. (1998-2001)

Paint/body: If the car is driven on rough roads, the spoiler on the trunk can rub through the paint unless spacer pads are installed between the spoiler and trunklid. (1998)

Suspension noise: Loose nuts on the rear stabilizer bar cause it to rattle. (1998)

Transmission problems: Automatic transmission problems prompted to company to extend warranty coverage to 7 years/100,000 miles. (2000-02)

Vehicle noise: Noises come from the top of the windshield and rear window because the teeth for the glass fasteners aren't engaged. The teeth must be trimmed and a wool felt installed. (1998)

Wheels: Clicking noises from the wheels can be remedied by applying special grease between the wheels and hubs. (1999-2000)

The bold is the recall, since you're not far over the expiration of the warranty, you've still got a chance. I'd make an appointment with your dealer asap and explain how you know of the extended warranty, how you're just a little over it, and take it in. Maybe let them know you're interested in getting the 105k service done as well, as that means more than just 'another freebie' walking in the door, but moreso a customer that'll come back again.

If this visit doesn't have a positive outcome, call Honda's zone office near you, which can be found near the back of the owners manual, or on (on contact page).

Good luck!

EDIT - Must've been tired when I wrote this. Thought you had a 2001. You've got a slim chance of a free unit as there's no offical 'recall' for 98's apparently. I'd still ask a dealer about it.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-26-2008, 03:50 PM
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I have seen a few solenoids go out. But unless the unit has really low miles it's just a band-aid onto the problem.

There are primarily two valves that wear and cause pressure loss inside these units, from debris, usually carrier bearing material, dissolved in the fluid. It's much like extrude-honing the valve bores with the metallic fluid.

The new solenoids usually hide the problem as the screens that feed them usually get cleaned while the solenoids are out, giving a slight rise in pressure.

I've had luck with only 1 unit that had bad linear solenoids (slow to respond but still worked). Others, not lucky, and with what they cost, most customers don't like to spend only to find they are still up s#*$ creek anyway.


Ruoyang, if you're talking about the 105k, our shop usually charges 9 hours on doing both the timing belt, etc and the tune-up and valve adjustment.

I figured it out once by "book" time, the t-belt/water pump was 4.5 and the valve adjustment alone was 4.6. Figure another half hour or so labor for filters, plugs and ignition components.

I don't know what average labor prices per hour are in NC.

I can tell you the last FULL 105k (actually 210k) service I did, which also included an oil change, air filter, cabin filters and trans fluid change came to nearly $1600 with all the parts.

The parts were as follows:

timing belt, water pump, hyd tensioner, both timing belt rollers, both accessory belts, the auto tensioner for the a/c belt (was bad), 6 plugs, front and rear ign wires, coil wire, distributor cap and rotor, pcv valve, air filter, thermostat, 3 qts z1 atf (had kept up on fluid service), set of 2 cabin filters, 2 valve cover gasket sets (includes all grommets, washers and plug tube seals), 2 gallons of Honda Type2 coolant, 4.7 qts 5w30 oil and oil filter, 1 upper intake gasket and 2 throttle body gaskets.

If your car doesn't require the rollers they're almost $100 each, and the auto tensioner for the a/c belt is around $80. Your car shouldn't really need a t-stat, but it's inexpensive and while the coolant is out, it's not hard to change.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock

Last edited by Fredsvt; 02-26-2008 at 03:50 PM. Reason: fixed
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-27-2008, 08:54 AM
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Fredsvt,

Have you seen many hydraulic tensioners fail? Is this something you would recommendat 105k miles or wait until 210k miles?

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post #10 of 11 Old 02-27-2008, 04:01 PM
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I've only seen one fail, they allow the belt to go slack. I've heard of several others though. The belt is allowed to go somewhat slack, and if the engine rotates backwards for any reason the belt will jump.

There are two designs of hydraulic tensioners, early and late.
The early ones had a "c clamp" type holder for installation and a removeable fill plug to put 5w30 motor oil into them. These were retracted by opening a service screw and turning an inside screw to operate the mechanism.

The later style is a hydraulic piston assembly, not openable or serviceable. It's put in a vise and gradually compressed until you're able to install a locking pin prior to installation.

The '98 here made it to 205, the first belt was done just shy of 100k. At that time (the car was 1.5 yrs old) I hadn't heard of any problems with the first design. Then I did. Oops. I guess I was lucky? I did refill it as per the manual instructions.

As for replacing vs. reusing? Well..... it's kind of the same as reusing the water pump, you might have luck and make it to the second interval or not.

When I work on customers cars I'll recommend replacing it. My own car I will replace it as well.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-28-2008, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
Ruoyang, if you're talking about the 105k, our shop usually charges 9 hours on doing both the timing belt, etc and the tune-up and valve adjustment.

I figured it out once by "book" time, the t-belt/water pump was 4.5 and the valve adjustment alone was 4.6. Figure another half hour or so labor for filters, plugs and ignition components.

I don't know what average labor prices per hour are in NC.

I can tell you the last FULL 105k (actually 210k) service I did, which also included an oil change, air filter, cabin filters and trans fluid change came to nearly $1600 with all the parts.

The parts were as follows:

timing belt, water pump, hyd tensioner, both timing belt rollers, both accessory belts, the auto tensioner for the a/c belt (was bad), 6 plugs, front and rear ign wires, coil wire, distributor cap and rotor, pcv valve, air filter, thermostat, 3 qts z1 atf (had kept up on fluid service), set of 2 cabin filters, 2 valve cover gasket sets (includes all grommets, washers and plug tube seals), 2 gallons of Honda Type2 coolant, 4.7 qts 5w30 oil and oil filter, 1 upper intake gasket and 2 throttle body gaskets.

If your car doesn't require the rollers they're almost $100 each, and the auto tensioner for the a/c belt is around $80. Your car shouldn't really need a t-stat, but it's inexpensive and while the coolant is out, it's not hard to change.
Hi Fred,

What differences would there be on a 99 4cyl auto besides two less plugs? I assume I have the older style hyd tensioner being a 99? I dont believe my dealer replaced it since the part wasn't listed on the invoice. Thank you!
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