EGR Valve and Update Kit - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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EGR Valve and Update Kit

I have a 2000 honda accord ex v6, I recently had my engine misfire and took it in for the check engine light that went on (It sputtered at idle and would die on me, but after a couple starts and some gassing it began to work fine again). I got the DTC P0301 P0302 P0304 P0305 and P0306. The Honda technician said my EGR valve was stuck closed, i had a knocking valve, and lots of carbon build up. He then proceeded to say I should pay 1300 for him to make my life better. (He said he would replace my EGR valve, adjust my valves, and perform a fuel systems service)

I declined and plan on fixing the problem myself, but when I picked up the car my check engine light had turned off. Im not sure if he reset the light or if the the whole thing was a fluke. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but apparently the process is a little more hands on due to "update" from a design flaw.

Should I leave it be? (Im assuming not since the tech advised to at least replace the EGR valve) And If i do replace the EGR valve should I purchase the Honda EGR valve (I believe it should be an update kit with an EGR port tube) or an after market EGR valve? And do after market EGR valve include this updated "tube"?

I was also wondering if there was a way to check if the EGR valve had been previously updated without taking off the intake manifold?
Also if it had been updated would I be able to replace only the valve? (Im assuming that the EGR port update is a one time thing) and would it matter if I used an aftermarket EGR valve if it had already been updated?


I apologize for the lengthy thread, Im a novice and was hoping to get some clarification and advice.

2000 Honda Accord EX V6

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post #2 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 07:17 AM
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Here is a link to the service bulletin and update he was talking about. read the warranty stuff- dont know how close you are on mileage but it was extended to 8 yrs and you may be able to get honda to goodwill the repair. if not, come back for advice on doing the repair.

the tech likely cleared your check engine light, but you're probably going to experience the problem again until it's fixed.

98-01 V6 EGR port cleaning 99-085


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post #3 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 07:57 AM
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I don't think there's a "kit"....it's simply clearing out the carbon that that model year is prone to.

Common. ANY Honda will do it eventually under the right conditions.

Resetting the code is often part of the diagnosis. It'll likely be back.
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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unfortunately I'm past 80k (im roughly at 130k because its been a commuter car to Daly city for nearly 5-6 years) so i dont think the dealer will repair it. I was wondering if replacing the EGR valve and cleaning the throttle body and plate would suffice to fix the problem. I didnt get the DTC's P0401 (insufficient EGR flow) or P1491 (insufficient EGR lift) so I wonder if its necessary to remove the intake manifold to clean the port. Im a novice 2 DIY and wasnt sure if replacement of the EGR valve "requires" the cleaning of the port also.

I was also wondering if anyone had a picture or diagram on where the EGR valve sits and if there are any special precautions i should take before attempting this repair. Ive been told its relatively simple, but i prefer to be safe than sorry.

I was also wondering if lower octane fuel will make the EGR port and valve fail sooner? (I know it sounds dumb) I had always used premium fuel and was told a few months back by a car buddy that my accord should be using just regular as it was originally designed for that octane. Could this change in fuel have made a significant impact on my EGR failure? (I switched a few months back)
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 06:17 PM
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maybe these will help
Attached Images
File Type: pdf EGR 99-085.pdf (306.6 KB, 3506 views)
File Type: pdf throttle body cleaning.pdf (134.4 KB, 2823 views)
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 06:36 PM
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Good point on the 2 EGR codes you mentioned that didn't show up- maybe there is something else going on but every other stuck EGR valve i've heard of causes missfiring and hard starting. they are prone to carboning up. another common thing that can cause a start/ stall is a bad fuel relay.

you can start cheap and clean the throttle body (look in the factory direct forums for the how-to) and take off and clean the manifold (that link i mentioned above) while you're at it. it's a good thing to do anyway. you'll want a new TB gasket handy, they tend to rip to shreds. if you look at the EGR passages, you'll notice how filthy they are. the update/kit is for a tube to be installed, i guess carbon doesnt like it as much. and of course a new valve.

the EGR valve is accessable, under and forward of the throttle body sort of by cyl#6.

as for fuel, the J30A1 doesnt benefit in any way that i've ever heard from super, so save your money for the EGR valve

if you're really into it, with the manifold off, you can do the valve clearance adj. Get a 'V' style feeler guage and a pair of valve cover gaskets. make sure the hot tub is filled up because after that your back is going to be toast!

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post #7 of 13 Old 01-04-2008, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the help ill give it my best and we'll see how things turn out =)... oh I was wondering if anyone had a DIY guide to changing the transmission fluid and spark plugs...=)
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-05-2008, 05:27 AM
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Search around on here for important info regarding those maintenanace items. both are easy jobs. if you like working on your car, i've found my shop manuals to pay for themselves time after time.

99 EXV6 Coupe 220k 6spd swap
95 F250 supercab 7.3 4x4 5spd
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-05-2008, 07:06 AM
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Hi Cody
Just so you know a stuck closed EGR valve will not cause an idle misfire.
With it supposedly stuck closed it should code a P0401, insufficient EGR flow, this code also generates when the port in the intake clogs.

You'd also get a code that relates to EGR lift position if it didn't open when the PCM commanded it to.

The valve is only open during light throttle cruising and on long decels from approx 50 mph and above as part of the OBD2 monitor test.

If it stuck open then you may get a random multiple misfire, possible on all 6. The EGR flow at idle causes mixture instability (the inert gas puts out the flame, essentially) and it will run VERY rough and possibly stall.

Your misfire codes, since it's all 6 cylinders is not likely a plug issue or coil issue.

I'd be looking at a fuel system problem, like the filter in the tank is starting to clog or the pump is on its way out. Although I have yet to ever replace either, even on cars with over 200k.

There is some with problems with clogged injectors, but since your car cleared up, I'd also doubt that.

I'd pull the valve and look at the pintle, is it loaded with heavy carbon deposits? You can try to clean it, but these valves are somewhat delicate.

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post #10 of 13 Old 01-05-2008, 04:40 PM
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Fred, I was wondering, can you get the "unsufficient lift" DTC anytime? or is it only checked when the monitor is run? otherwise, if the EGR were opened while the car was being started or idling it would show up right?

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post #11 of 13 Old 01-05-2008, 06:54 PM
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There are several codes related to the egr valve, one being an insufficient flow code, that one is only able to set when the monitor is run.
The conditions for the monitor to run are fully warmed up, and coasting from over 50 mph for about 15 seconds.

The other codes are insufficient lift, where the valve isn't opening to commanded position. There is a sensor within the valve to let the pcm know how much it's open vs. what it really is open.
The code excessive egr flow is obvious.

There are conditions that will cause NO codes, but the egr valve or lift sensor is operating improperly. Usually thats when the valve is partially open, allowing some flow. Or, more common, the lift sensor gets stuck "on" then the pcm is expecting egr flow, and all kinds of very odd idle and low rpm running conditions occur.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

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post #12 of 13 Old 03-19-2013, 06:19 PM
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Happens every winter

I get this problem once or twice every winter, feels just like vapor lock, especially after short trip on cool day with hot engine. (Christmas shopping is the real killer). Will light up check engine, misfire all 6 cylinders. I presumed it was something to do with gas formula change.

Apparently now I get to clean my EGR port since I tried just cleaning the valve. Is there a registration place so that I can know if the EGR update was applied to my vehicle?
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-20-2013, 07:54 PM
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I cleaned the port out myself a couple years ago. Did a DIY on it too, though I have no idea where it's at anymore, lol.

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