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post #1 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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radiator fan not working

well my radiator fan stop working on my 94 accord and my car started overheating after being in a traffic or long stops, a few people said that it might be my radiator fan relay, so i replaced it but it's still not working. I don't have any leaks my fluids are full and my car doesn't overheat when running only when it's not moving. before i replace the fan and all i want to know exactly what it is before spending more money cause i've spent enough fixing other things but i know how important it is trying to fix the overheating problem.

thanks for your time

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post #2 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 01:16 PM
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Connect a live feed to the fan, if it works, then startworking backward to find the fault. If it doesn't work, remove the fan, to check it over.
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Honda Accord. 2.0iES 4dr automatic. 1996 'N' reg. 87.000. (Burgandy) ave mpg 21. (Best 32) SOLD.
(modified) Citroen ZX 1.9 Diesel Auto 1994 "L" reg. 100K miles, (Dark Blue), ave mpg 44. (Best 55) ECU free.
2002 Wedgewood blue. Rover 75 2.0 CDTi Conniossaur Auto ave mpg 40 (best 52) mpg. :)
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post #3 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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iwas just thinking could it be the motor seems pretty easy to replace, i'm also thinking maybe the wiring but i'm a noob when it comes to wiring, like you said connect a live feed lol i don't know how to do that sorry. wut's the chance that its the motor cause both the condenser fan and radiator fan are not working. i'm hoping it's not the wiring lol

is there an instruction how to replace the wiring if it is the wiring?

those two are the only thing i could think of.
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post #4 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 02:15 PM
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doubt that it is the fan if they both quit working at the exact same time.

97 2.2 SE Honda Accord has 218k
things to do list: lets just say long right now...

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post #5 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 02:17 PM
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another thing it could be is the thermostat....

if that is bad, it may prevent the fans from turning on. have that checked out as well....

current car: 2007 Honda Accord LX-SE 4dr 2.4 MT 20xk miles (slowly and gradually nursing her back to health)

prior vehicles:
2007 Honda Accord LX Coupe 2.4 MT (409k miles, RIP)
1999 Honda Accord coupe (197k, blown head gasket)
1993 Honda Accord (retired 369k)
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post #6 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 02:43 PM
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I had this same problem a few weeks ago with a '95 that I was selling. It turned out to be the thermostat. It was stuck shut, which caused the coolant to not circulate through the entire system.

Given that the cooling fans are switched via a sensor on the front half of the system, that coolant was never reaching a temperature to trip the fans. The coolant in the back half (trapped by the shut thermostat) was boiling hot, causing it to overheat.

I couldn't figure it out at first and was trying fuses, relays, etc.

A quick test to see if the fans are still working mechanically is to switch the A/C on. That should force both fans on to put air through the condensor. IF that works, but normal operation (without a/c on) does not, then it's probably the thermostat.

Good luck.
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post #7 of 24 Old 06-01-2007, 03:39 PM
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The thermostat is never replaced when the timing belt is changed, and it should be.

As far as the fan is concerned, I would at least wire it to turn on and off with the ignition switch to avoid any overheating until you resolve the problem.

Current cars:
2007 Accord VP Royal Blue/gray int. 4cyl automatic
2005 Acura MDX, no Navi, Gold Package, pearl white
frost, tan leather interior, Bose
1997 BMW Z-3, 1.9. 79,000 miles, Boston Green,
optional hard top
1997 Honda Accord, Red, SE 4 cyl, MINT, Original
80K (Son's car)

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post #8 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 06:39 AM
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Two fans going at the same time is highly unlikely, I would look elswhere for the cause of your problem..

A new thermostat is a cheap and easy job, so it's well worth changing it..

I am no elec but, try tracing the wire back from the fan till it reaches whatever, then, connect a short piece of wire to that item joining both (in and out) connections together, thus bypassing it.. then try the fan, if no luck follow the wire back to its next connection and repeat..

I would also try taking a wire direct from the battery to the fan to test it, but maybe someone has more info on doing that.
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Honda Accord. 2.0iES 4dr automatic. 1996 'N' reg. 87.000. (Burgandy) ave mpg 21. (Best 32) SOLD.
(modified) Citroen ZX 1.9 Diesel Auto 1994 "L" reg. 100K miles, (Dark Blue), ave mpg 44. (Best 55) ECU free.
2002 Wedgewood blue. Rover 75 2.0 CDTi Conniossaur Auto ave mpg 40 (best 52) mpg. :)
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post #9 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 08:26 AM
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By the way, did you ever check the fuse?


Using a test light, pull off (apart) the connection to the fan motor.

Attach the test light to the POSITIVE on the battery.

Touch the test light to the "car" side of the connection, testing both terminals. When the light on the tester illuminates, you've found the negative side of the connection. You could put a tab of tape on it to remember which one it is.

Now take a piece of wire long enough to go to that connection from the battery. Strip the insulation from both ends by about an inch.

Stick one end inside of the female side of the POSITIVE side of the connector. This is the side you did NOT mark with tape. Now plug the connector back together making sure no stray strands of wire cross the connections.

Touch the other end of the new wire to the positive side of the battery. (You should have safety goggles on when working near a battery).

If the fan motor(s) are good, they will run, and your problem is elsewhere.

If you can, you could simply run the new wire to the "cold" side of a strong fuse that goes on and off with the key. This would cause the fans to run when the key is on, and prevent overheating. $$$$$$$$$ Until you solved your problem.

Current cars:
2007 Accord VP Royal Blue/gray int. 4cyl automatic
2005 Acura MDX, no Navi, Gold Package, pearl white
frost, tan leather interior, Bose
1997 BMW Z-3, 1.9. 79,000 miles, Boston Green,
optional hard top
1997 Honda Accord, Red, SE 4 cyl, MINT, Original
80K (Son's car)

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post #10 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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yes i've tried changing the fuse and the relay but no luck, also when i woke up this morning i see a big leak under the driver side next to the oil pan and i see that it's the coolant but i don't know where exactly it's leaking from. wow anybody have an idea is this causing by the overheat? does this mean another part is broken?

I will trying replacing the thermostat myself, if you guys have any idea wuts causing the leak in the engine, i believe its the coolant cause it's green. it only started leaking last night.

thanks for all the feedback. hopefully soon i fix it, i don't want anything else breaking cause of the overheating.

BTW my a/c doesn't work since i bought the car lol so i can't check it that way. that wiring thing ima try it if i could understand it better. i kno i'm a lil slow when it comes to wiring.
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post #11 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 02:29 PM
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green = coolant, last i knew....

check your coolant levels too, in the main radiator and the overflow tank as well. be sure to check your hoses and connections as well.... you may have a blockage that's causing your problems as well.....

let us know what happens....

current car: 2007 Honda Accord LX-SE 4dr 2.4 MT 20xk miles (slowly and gradually nursing her back to health)

prior vehicles:
2007 Honda Accord LX Coupe 2.4 MT (409k miles, RIP)
1999 Honda Accord coupe (197k, blown head gasket)
1993 Honda Accord (retired 369k)
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post #12 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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well the upper hose and the lower hose is new, ima check in the manual where everything else is too. the coolant level is good the leak only started last night and it was only a lil leak about a size of a basketball on the ground but i added more just incase.

ALSO i will post picture of the leaks and where they are cause i use to have a clean engine now there's grease everywhere.
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 02:44 PM
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For the coolant leak, where was the coolant puddle located? Near the front of the car (radiator) or under the engine (water pump).

As for the radiator fan, I would check for 12V at the plug that goes into the radiator fan after jumping the radiator fan relay. You manual will have directions on how to do this.

If you have 12V, then the fan is bad. If no voltage there is a problem in the electrical system.
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post #14 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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aiite ya'll here a pic

http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...tid=7976&stc=1
pic-4.jpg

http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...tid=7977&stc=1
pic-3.jpg

http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...tid=7978&stc=1
pic-2.jpg

http://radio-pro.ru/forums/at...tid=7979&stc=1
pic-1.jpg

hopefully they are clear enough
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post #15 of 24 Old 06-02-2007, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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i'm hoping that its' not my water pump, i don't think it is cause when i drive the car the coolant doesn't burst like my friends when his was broken mine just leak little drop at a time

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