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post #1 of 12 Old 06-16-2013, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Replace Flex pipe?

My 2007 Accord LX V6 sedan started making a strange rattle at around 2000 rpm, but only when I accelerate. It almost sounds like a grinding, but it is definitely metal on metal. I got under the car today and saw that the steel mesh around the flex pipe is not connected on the engine side of the pipe. The corrugated pipe inside appears to be intact. I think this would explain the rattling noise that happens only when the car is in gear and accelerating at low RPM. So the question is, do I replace the flex pipe, or just wait until the whole thing busts before I do anything? Follow up question, how important is that steel mesh? Can I just cut it off, or maybe put a metal clamp on the one side to keep it from rattling?

Car has 110k on the ticker if that matters at all, and the spot where the Y collector bolts to the front header looks rusted beyond recognition. I think the only way to get that off would be to cut it and start over.

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post #2 of 12 Old 06-17-2013, 09:50 AM
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I'm having the same problem with my flexpipe, but no noise.

I had the noise around 2000RPM a couple of years ago and it was the front catalytic converter protective metal sheet that was rusted and rattled at a certain RPM.

Check that out! You can hit the exact with a hammer and try to find where the noise is coming from...


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post #3 of 12 Old 06-19-2013, 04:43 PM
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Interested in this as well. I am having the metallic rattle when I step (lightly) on the gas after a full stop. It has also happened to me while maintaining speed around 35 mph. Catalytic converter shields are ok and underbody does not look rusted. Was searching for flex pipe rattle and came across this thread. 73k miles, located in Midwest.

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post #4 of 12 Old 06-20-2013, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frenzal View Post
You can hit the exhaust with a hammer and try to find where the noise is coming from...
This!

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post #5 of 12 Old 06-26-2013, 05:49 PM
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I can only assume the mesh is like a heat shield to prevent it from overheating something on the car. If you don't want to replace the pipe you can always try when it is cold to push it back to the top and see if that works. If it dose simply get a hose clamp that size and just clamp it back in place. Dave

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post #6 of 12 Old 07-12-2013, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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I see two part numbers for the OEM pipe 18210-SDB-A01 and 18210-SDB-A11. Anyone know which one is correct, or are they the same?

I also see on Rock Auto they have a Walker front pipe which is 1/3 the price. Anyone have any insight on which might be better or worse?

EDIT: Nevermind... For anyone who might be interested, I got the Walker 53518 Pipe and the Gaskets Front at the header 31377x2 and Rear at the cat 31602x1 from Amazon for $140 Shipped.

Going to attempt this one myself with the help of a capable neighbor and a friendly guy with a lift ;-)

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Last edited by Prix03GT; 07-13-2013 at 05:10 AM. Reason: adding information
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-17-2013, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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For anyone who is following along in the saga, the walker pipe arrived today and it appeared that it was welded by a toddler. The welds looked terrible and one was so bad that the material was actually melted and there was a hole in it. I could blow air into the pipe through the hole like it was a flute. Returning the part and looking for another alternative now. I don't want to drop $400 on a custom j pipe but I'm not finding many other options right now....

more to come, i'm sure....

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post #8 of 12 Old 07-19-2013, 12:06 PM
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Crap, I was thinking of ordering the Walker flex pipe from Rock Auto...

The OEM is a bit more than 400$ I think, which is ridiculous for a piece of metal.

Update when you are done, might want to follow the same route as you!

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post #9 of 12 Old 07-20-2013, 04:50 AM Thread Starter
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What I have learned from my research and ordering the walker pipe is that it is not high quality and is "aluminized" metal NOT STAINLESS. After one Mid Atlantic winter, I would be repeating this exercise....

IMHO the option that offers the most value is the ATLP J-pipe. It bolts up into the stock location, is constructed of all stainless and offers a performance improvement over stock. Bernardi parts offers the stocker for $360 and the ATLP is on sale at heel toe for $380. I think the all stainless mandrel bent is worth an extra $20 over stock.

Can anyone comment on the longevity of the ATLP part?

My primary concern now is that the studs on the cats will give me hell trying to unbolt the stock pipe. if I snap one off, the OEM studs are $10 a piece and I don't have the equipment to press a new stud in. I may have to resort to drilling them out and using a bolt through the hole.

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post #10 of 12 Old 07-24-2013, 07:41 AM
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I had that problem with the flex pipe too. I found a used a-pipe( the part with the flex pipe attached) online for like 40 bucks. The only hard part is installing it because it connects to the exhaust manifold with bolts with springs on them.
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-24-2013, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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to add to the drama...

I got the car on a lift yesterday and it is not the exhaust at all. I just had all the belts changed and my hunch at this point is that it is the timing belt or tensioner. Taking it back to the shop ASAP.

Sound only occurs at 2000RPM while the car is in gear on the ground and rolling. Could not reproduce on the lift even with it in gear wheels spinning. barely occurs in neutral when I rev it.

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post #12 of 12 Old 07-26-2013, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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For anyone who is paying attention, the "problem" turned out to the the heat sheild on the front catalytic converter. The tabs that bolt on to the very top of the J pipe rusted and broke free. I ended up throwing a stainless pipe clamp around it and now she sounds like she should.

/thread....

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