Seafoam, clean MAF and new fluids - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 118 Old 07-30-2008, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
Jimmy Rustler

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Seafoam, new plugs, clean MAF and fluids

When I purchased my 04 LX back in May with 42K, it was CPO, so the fluids, filters and brakes had been changed. Now I have 46K on her and I decided that it was time to switch to Mobil1 and change the ATF. And while I was at it, I wanted to do a Seafoam treatment, clean the MAF and replace the plugs.

I grabbed several filters and 3 quarts of ATF at my local Honda dealer. NAPA has the NGKs for $13 each and PepBoys supplied the Seafoam and a set of Rhino Ramps on sale for $26! WalMart is the best place for Mobil1 in the 5 quart bottle.



First up was the Seafoam.



Poor 1/3 of the bottle in the fuel tank, 1/3 in the crankcase and the final 1/3 will be s*ucked through the intake. Be ready to change the oil after.



I used this hose for the intake.




Be sure the car is running and slowly poor it in. If you poor it too fast, it will stall! Once it is all s*ucked up, turn off the motor and wait 5-8 mins.

Now fire her up and go for a spirited 15 min drive. Normally you’ll get a smoke show and think that you're 007 with a smoke screen. But this wasn’t the case for my Honda. No smoke whatsoever.

Next I decided to change the plugs. The plugs were pre-gapped in the box to the .44. I use the hood prop hole closest to the cowl which allows me more space.




Remove the plastic cover on top of the motor (one behind the oil fill) by removing the 4 10mm bolts. You can now see the coils. You’ll need to remove two more 10mm bolts securing the coils.



Using a standard 5/8 spark plug socket, remove the four plugs. I found them to be a bit worn, but not too bad. Doesn’t hurt to replace them.




Install the new plus being careful not to cross thread them. Then tighten to 13 ft lb of torque. Reinstall the coils, and then secure the 1st and 3rd coil with the 10mm bolt. Replace the cover and secure it with the remaining four 10mm bolts.

Next I decided to clean the MAF. I use CRC MAF Cleaner which can be found at any auto part store.



Remove the two phillip head screws and detach the wire harness.




Be careful when working with the MAF as not to drop or bang it as the wire sensors are delicate. Lay it on a shop towel and spray 12-15 spurts of the cleaner on the wire sensors as shown.




Let it dry for a few minutes, and then reinstall it. Start and check for operation.

I then moved onto the fluid changes. Since there are already DIYs for this, I will not elaborate. I will however state that the owners manual says 4.6 quart oil capacity, but I used the entire 5 quarts and had room for more.

Good luck!

ATF
DIY ATF Change Drain and Fill

Oil



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post #2 of 118 Old 07-30-2008, 10:12 AM
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Nicely presented, sir.


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post #3 of 118 Old 09-26-2009, 07:51 PM
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Revival. I've seen a lot of people looking for this info.

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post #4 of 118 Old 09-26-2009, 08:05 PM
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Interesting!

The sea foam treatment and MAF sensor cleaning are two things I should do next summer, along with another drain-fill of ATF and new ATF filter.

So, for the sea foam:
1. Pour 1/3 of can into gas tank
2. Pour 1/3 of can into oil crankcase
At this point, turn the car on.....
3. Finally, pour 1/3 of can (slowly) into the hose for intake...
Turn the car off, wait 5-minutes and drive the car for 15 minutes.

Is this correct?

Questions for Seafoam:
1. Do you need to change plugs after seafoam treatment? I just changed my plugs this summer...Will seafoam foul my new plugs?
2. For step 1, should I put 1/3 of can into near empty gas tank or full tank? If near empty, should I refill the tank to full capacity afterward?
3. If for question 2, I have to refill the gas tank to full capacity, should I finish the gas tank before changing the oil?
4. Is changing oil immediately after seafoam treatment advisable? If so, could you kindly clarify question 3 above?

Question for MAF sensor:
-> When you spray 12-15 sprouts, will the liquid goes to the other side of the MAF sensor case? Or, will it simply dry inside?

Thanks!

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post #5 of 118 Old 09-26-2009, 08:32 PM
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Did doing all this liven up your car again? I'm at 45k right now, and I may do the seafoam trick.
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post #6 of 118 Old 09-27-2009, 10:26 AM
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+1 to _karu_'s questions!

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post #7 of 118 Old 09-27-2009, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _karu_ View Post
Questions for Seafoam:
1. Do you need to change plugs after seafoam treatment? I just changed my plugs this summer...Will seafoam foul my new plugs?No, it doesn't say anthing about changing the plugs in the directions on the bottle.
2. For step 1, should I put 1/3 of can into near empty gas tank or full tank? If near empty, should I refill the tank to full capacity afterward?Bottle says half full or more gas tank
3. If for question 2, I have to refill the gas tank to full capacity, should I finish the gas tank before changing the oil?Just treat the seafoam in the gas tank as any other gas treatment. You are advised to change the oil shortly after seafoaming.
4. Is changing oil immediately after seafoam treatment advisable? If so, could you kindly clarify question 3 above?

Thanks!
hope this helps!

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post #8 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
Did doing all this liven up your car again? I'm at 45k right now, and I may do the seafoam trick.
I got zero smoke. So I must have had a pretty clean top end. Performance wise, no improvement. But it did clean up any crud in the crankcase and readied it for the switchover to Mobil1. I would imagine an engine with 100K or more would see some gains. You'll see better performance gains with cleaning your MAF and a fresh air filter IMHO.

Don't forget to check your throttle body too. I spray some tb cleaner in there every 10K or so.

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post #9 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _karu_ View Post
Question for MAF sensor:
-> When you spray 12-15 sprouts, will the liquid goes to the other side of the MAF sensor case? Or, will it simply dry inside?

Thanks!
It will dry in a matter of moments.

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post #10 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 07:27 AM
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This thread should be a sticky. Excellent writeup by Golftango. Lets not let this thread get lost with all the other ones.

Good job to Ry05coupe for the revival.
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post #11 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golftango View Post
I got zero smoke. So I must have had a pretty clean top end. Performance wise, no improvement. But it did clean up any crud in the crankcase and readied it for the switchover to Mobil1. I would imagine an engine with 100K or more would see some gains. You'll see better performance gains with cleaning your MAF and a fresh air filter IMHO.

Don't forget to check your throttle body too. I spray some tb cleaner in there every 10K or so.
Ok. Well like I said, i've gone 46k without cleaning the MAF. I should probably clean it then. Can you get the cleaner from Autozone? How would i go about cleaning the TB itself?
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post #12 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 08:30 AM
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post #13 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
Ok. Well like I said, i've gone 46k without cleaning the MAF. I should probably clean it then. Can you get the cleaner from Autozone? How would i go about cleaning the TB itself?
You can get the MAF and TB cleaner at any auto part store. TB is pretty easy, disconnect the intake tube here:



Then spray the tb cleaner onto the tb. Move the butterfly valve by hand to get behind it. I will do a diy video tonight and post it here.

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post #14 of 118 Old 10-01-2009, 09:26 AM
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Ok, thanks. What all does the TB cleaner actually do? Does it just get rid of that blow-by oil that gets chucked back into the intake? I really need to get a catch can, lol. The MAF cleaning is pretty straightforward and easy.
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post #15 of 118 Old 10-06-2009, 10:19 AM
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Thanks!! The video will be great!

Cleaning TB now also on my list.


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