Sub add on to the Accord Sport - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 70 Old 01-09-2018, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Sub add on to the Accord Sport

I was trying to figure out which model I should go for and love everything that comes with the sport but I am a little worried about the lack of a sub. Looks like the EX-L upgrades to the nicer stereo (8 Speaker 180W vs 10 Speaker 450W). I am guessing an aftermarket sub on the Sport is going to be difficult. Anyone try it or have any thoughts?

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post #2 of 70 Old 01-10-2018, 11:47 AM
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I thought we had the 8 speakers in the sport as well?


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post #3 of 70 Old 01-10-2018, 02:00 PM
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I have a 2.0 touring and the 400 watt system is lacking bass. The subwoofer is very weak.(this of course is my personal opinion) I will maybe replace all speakers
And back subwoofer or maybe just add an Inclosed sub. My hesitation is having to disable the noise cancelation feature. Im just waiting to see what others do so I can see their outcomes and decide from there.
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post #4 of 70 Old 01-12-2018, 05:49 AM
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I agree. The factory sub in the Touring is weak. Over all, this system sounds ok, but if you want to crank it, youll be disappointed. #ItIsWhatItIs
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post #5 of 70 Old 01-12-2018, 06:21 AM
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to me the speakers in the sport are weak as hell. I want to add a subwoofer eventually but have no idea as no one has brought this up. Don't know how hard it is exactly do integrate it.
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post #6 of 70 Old 01-12-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logicmax View Post
I was trying to figure out which model I should go for and love everything that comes with the sport but I am a little worried about the lack of a sub. Looks like the EX-L upgrades to the nicer stereo (8 Speaker 180W vs 10 Speaker 450W). I am guessing an aftermarket sub on the Sport is going to be difficult. Anyone try it or have any thoughts?
Hi, you might want to view this...'Are you changing your stock speakers? post15'

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post #7 of 70 Old 01-12-2018, 09:07 AM
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Whatever you do, do it right, use the right gauge wire, use fuses ect. Someone in my old high school did a sub install in some toyota corolla. Something went wrong, it caught on fire and they poured water on it, it only got worse. Ended up burning the whole car down. Get yourself a fire extinguisher rated for chemical and electrical fires. Make sure to properly mount it too, there are car brackets available.


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post #8 of 70 Old 01-12-2018, 09:52 AM
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I'm with you guys on the Accord Sport 2.0T needing some kind of audio upgrade. It's okay, but not nearly as good as our 2017 CR-V Touring. I'm thinking maybe just start with a speaker upgrade and see how that goes. Classically, just doing a speaker upgrade makes a big difference in how good a factory Honda system will sound. If it's still not enough of an upgrade you can just keep going but you haven't wasted any money since the next steps I would think would be to add an amp and a sub.
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post #9 of 70 Old 01-12-2018, 11:07 AM
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Aftermarket subs are pretty easy. They just use an adapter to get signal from the speaker wire to the amp (speaker to RCA conversion). Then run power to the amp as usual.

Just be sure to disable the ANC or youll get a bunch of buzzing from your new sub.


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post #10 of 70 Old 01-15-2018, 06:17 AM
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I've noticed ANC is supposed to cut out other frequency's but counter acting the sound with other frequency. I don't know if I hear it or not but sometimes even playing the radio I hear a high pitched ringing sound. Not sure if that's it ?
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post #11 of 70 Old 01-15-2018, 11:36 AM
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I added a transported JL Audio Basswedge to my 2.0 Touring this morning. It literally took 10 minutes to tap off of the existing sub wiring. Sounds fantastic! No need to change the amp as the stock amp has enough to push it. I did not have to disable the ANC

The Basswedge has 2 10" JL W0-V3 subs ported to 2 ohms that can handle between 150 and 600 watts. The stock subwoofer was also 2 ohms so the amp should not have any problems driving the JL's. I do think that ported systems will work better than sealed, but a sealed box will probably work too, with a lower output. The ease of this install gives me some hope that Honda built in some easy upgrade capabilities in this system. Of course, this setup will not break any SPL records and I presume that the amp has probably crossed over the sub a little high, but it really helps fill out the sound and adds some much needed bump to the low end. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested, but it is very simple to do this. Easiest upgrade ever.

Cant post a link to the Basswedge cause Im a noob:-(
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post #12 of 70 Old 01-15-2018, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaRillist View Post
I added a transported JL Audio Basswedge to my 2.0 Touring this morning. It literally took 10 minutes to tap off of the existing sub wiring. Sounds fantastic! No need to change the amp as the stock amp has enough to push it. I did not have to disable the ANC

The Basswedge has 2 10" JL W0-V3 subs ported to 2 ohms that can handle between 150 and 600 watts. The stock subwoofer was also 2 ohms so the amp should not have any problems driving the JL's. I do think that ported systems will work better than sealed, but a sealed box will probably work too, with a lower output. The ease of this install gives me some hope that Honda built in some easy upgrade capabilities in this system. Of course, this setup will not break any SPL records and I presume that the amp has probably crossed over the sub a little high, but it really helps fill out the sound and adds some much needed bump to the low end. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested, but it is very simple to do this. Easiest upgrade ever.

Cant post a link to the Basswedge cause Im a noob:-(
Here's a link
please post pictures, show how you tapped into the sub wiring.

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post #13 of 70 Old 01-15-2018, 09:12 PM
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I snagged a 1-day subscription to

And i've been downloading many of the related audio schematics and pin diagrams for the 2018 models.

The Sport has 2-way speakers front and rear, which totals 8. The step up from that adds a center and sub for a total of 10.

The other upgrade is the external amplifier. The speakers in the LX/Sport/EX are powered by the in-dash radio. The step-up (EXL and up) adds an external amplifier with RS485 between the in-dash unit and the amplifier. RS485 means no more snagging a signal before the amp. Additionally, the amplifier does mixing of the ANC signals, System beeps, voice recognition, etc.

I would remove the factory sub if you add one in the trunk powered from the factory amp. I wouldn't run them in parallel.

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post #14 of 70 Old 01-15-2018, 11:32 PM
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Agree that you should definitely disconnect the factory sub. Hooking it up in parallel would take the load down to 1 ohm in my case which is a no go for this amp.

Do any of your downloaded docs give any output wattage per channel? Im gonna get some voltage outputs to calculate, but would like to know what Honda is saying it is supposed to be.
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post #15 of 70 Old 01-16-2018, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaRillist View Post
Agree that you should definitely disconnect the factory sub. Hooking it up in parallel would take the load down to 1 ohm in my case which is a no go for this amp.

Do any of your downloaded docs give any output wattage per channel? Im gonna get some voltage outputs to calculate, but would like to know what Honda is saying it is supposed to be.
No info like that, I looked.

I perform two tests on a stock system. The first is playing test tones and putting my oscilloscope and DMM on the outputs (to see if they are balanced or not). The second is connecting the output through a LOC and feeding a soundcard in a PC running an RTA app. That gives me frequency response of the output.


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