Subframe Replacement - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 2 Old 09-07-2011, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Subframe Replacement

I've got a couple issues with steering/suspension after hitting a curb pretty (read: VERY) hard.

So far, I've replaced two airbags (curtain and seat), all four rotors (one shattered), knuckle, hub, bearing, lower ball joint, caliper sub assembly, inner feder liner/splash guard, new wheels/tires, and I'll be replacing the axles this weekend. My SRS module is out for flashing and I'm sourcing a seatbelt assembly now.

I noticed some fairly severe positive camber, as well as the wheel/tire sitting almost a full 1/2" to 3/4" further back in the wheel well, which is causing the tire to rub on the splash guard. Initially, I thought it was a bent lower control arm, but after replacing all these parts, specifically when I had the old knuckle off, I noticed the mounting point for rear mount of the lower control arm, which is attached to the subframe, had broken welds in the front and was bent back towards the right, rear of the vehicle, which would explain both the positive camber (lower control arm is now further in) and caster change (bottom of the suspension assembly sits further back).

Now, after that long winded introduction, I need a little bit of help. I'm thinking I have two options, I can either 1) bend the mount back and re-weld it or 2) replace the entire front subframe.

Option 1:
I'm thinking of placing a jack under the subframe, wrapping a tie-down strap under the jack, and up over the mount. I'd proceed to raise the jack, hoping the tension from the tie-down slowly bends the mount back, at which point I can put the wheel back on, check for clearance, and re-weld the mount to the subframe if it all checks out.

The other thought was to place a bar/rod of proper diameter through the mounting hole, jack up the vehicle, place a jack stand under the end of the bar, and then lower the vehicle back down slowly. But, I'm concerned this would stretch or bend the mounting holes.

Any other ideas on how I could go about bending this mount back?


Option 2:
I've sourced a few subframes, all in the $250-300 range. BUT, my problem is, I can't find instructions relative to subframe removal. I've found the truncated instructions that Princess was kind enough to post in the sway-bar/stabilizer bar threads, but it's not detailed enough for me to be comfortable undertaking replacement of the subframe.

Any place I can find some instructions on removal and replacement of the subframe? I would assume it's much more than a matter of removing a few bolts, but I can't tell how much more in depth the process would be, or whether I need to support the engine and transmission during removal, or if the motor/transmission mounts will be sufficient, to hold the weight of the vehicle.

Any information or thoughts on this would be very much appreciated.

EDIT:

The vehicle is a 2004 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe, Automatic Transmission

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post #2 of 2 Old 10-04-2011, 07:11 PM
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The subframe holds the engine and trans in.
You need to hold the powertrain up by the lips on the inner fenders with an appropriate powertrain brace.

You'll also need to drop out the rack with the subframe.

Don't try and fix the old one, as it'll be weak at the point where its bent.

It's fairly straightforward, remove: lower splash shield, exhaust J pipe and its mount, 2 center motor mount nuts, the steering shaft IN the car to the rack,(mark it at dead center) the PS hoses at the rack and all their line clamp bolts or the high pressure line at the pump, and the return line at the joint on the subframe, the two lower trans mount nuts, the lower ball joints and damper forks. Then you need a large enough support or friends, take out the two center mount nuts/bolts, then remove two opposite corner subframe bolts, and then the last two, make sure you have help if not, it gets REAL heavy.


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