V6 Performance: Ultimate FAQ (Intakes, Exhausts, other mods, ect) - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 34 Old 09-28-2014, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

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Post V6 Performance: Ultimate FAQ (Intakes, Exhausts, other mods, ect)

Hello Drive Accord!

I made this post with the hope we could have a central knowledge thread of all things performance related to the V6. (Perhaps I'll make an I4 edition someday) Hopefully this will help to alleviate the frequent "what exhaust" threads we get, and maybe it'll get a sticky.

This thread is divided into categories, explains what each part does in some detail, and then shows you the aftermarket products available.


-Cold Air VS. Short Ram (followed by Aftermarket Solutions)
-Throttle Body (Throttle Body / Throttle Body Spacer)
-Intake Manifold (Manifold / Manifold Spacer / Runners)
-FAQ & Notes

-Cat / Axle Back (Mufflers / Resonators / Piping)
-Third Catalytic Converter (High Flow / Delete)
-J Pipe
-Pre-Cat (Headers / Pre-Cat Delete / High Flow Pre cat)
-FAQ & Notes

-Pulleys (Stock Diameter / Underdrive)
-FAQ & Notes

-Short Shifters (knobs / bushings)
-FAQ & Notes

-Chassis (Sway Bars / Braces / Ect)
-FAQ & Notes

-Pads & Rotors
-FAQ & Notes


This section is for everything intake related, (Filter, Manifold, Throttlebody, ect)


Cold Air VS. Short Ram

Cold Air Intake
The filter is located in the lower front bumper. The idea is to avoid the heat of the engine bay, and to suck up as close to ambient air temperatures as possible.


-Cooler air temperatures
-Increased lower end power


-This type of intake is NOT ideal if you live in an area with floods/heavy rain, as it is possible to hydro lock (destroy) your engine by inhaling water. (There are ways to circumvent this situation, however. Such as "Hydroshield" by Injen, ect.
-Some note that throttle response is slightly delayed. This can be due to the piping being much longer.

Short Ram Intake
The filter is located in the engine bay, which makes it prone to "heat soak", but has far shorter piping, creating less work for the engine to pull in air, increasing throttle response.


-Increased throttle response
-Increased top end Horsepower


-Heat soak: A big problem in the summer

NOTE: There is a common confusion that short ram intakes will increase low RPM torque. IT DOES NOT. It actually reduces power slightly, but very close to red line will give you a few extra HP. This confusion comes from the fact that you will have greater throttle response, and it sounds very very mean.

Filter Type- Here is a brief explaination between filter types. Ultimately it comes down to "Dry" vs "oiled"
Dry- The filter is close to the material of a stock vehicles filter. This is often the preferred type of filter. Some can be washable.
Oiled- A special kit must be used to properly oil the filter. There is a specific way to do this, and over oiling can cause engine problems. It is often debated whether oil filters are bad for your car or not because they can "gum up" your throttle body and MAF sensor, which are sensitive components.


After Market Solutions
Now that you've read the pro's and con's, here are the known choices available for our vehicle.


Type: Cold air intake
Cost: $468
Color: Polished or Gunmetal grey
Manufacturer claimed Specs: 10.7 HP 5900 RPM
Filter Type: Dry


Type: Cold air intake
Cost: $279
Color: Polished or Gloss Black
Manufacturer claimed Specs: 10.9 HP / 9.42 Lbs torque Unknown RPM
Filter Type: Dry


Type: Short Ram intake
Cost: $249
Color: Polished
Manufacturer claimed Specs: 14 HP / 14 Lbs torque Unknown RPM
Filter Type: Dry


Type: Short Ram intake
Cost: $286
Color: Grey
Manufacturer claimed Specs: Unknown
Filter Type: Oiled


Throttle Body
The throttle body is a valve that opens to allow a certain level of airflow in at a time, and is usually where your aftermarket intakes attach.

Larger throttle bodys can be used on our vehicles from Honda / Acura, but much information is not known about upgrading this component. This is because without a tune yet available, the vehicle may either lose power or have RPM fluctuation problems, ect.

This section will be updated when any relevant news arises.

Throttle Body Spacer

A Throttle Body Spacer (commonly referred to as TBS), is a small piece of machined aluminum that resides between the throttle body and the intake manifold. Throttle body spacers do two things: Reduce heat transfer from the hot intake manifold to the thottle body, and have an optional port. This port can be used for installing vacuum gauges, or installing Nitrous.

NOTE: Throttle Body Spacers do not increase engine power. They only allow the vehicle to maintain engine power even as the car gets hotter from use. If you do not intend to install Nitrous or a vacuum gauge, then it is economically effective to purchase a single thermal gasket instead.

After Market Solutions

P2R Throttle Body Spacer

Cost: $80
Color: Polished, Orange, Red, Blue, Purple, Yellow, Black
Size: 3/4"
Port Size: 1/8" Threaded

P2R Throttle Body Thermal Gasket

Cost: $24
Color: White


Intake Manifold

This is the large piece overtop the J35. It connects to the throttle body, divides the air into six channels, and then connects to the intake runners.

Like said above with the throttle body, this piece has been swapped for a larger manifold, but without a tune there are no substantial results. This section will be updated when any relevant news arises.

Intake Manifold Spacer / MDX Spacer

This is an aftermarket machined piece of 6061 aluminum that exists between the intake runners, and the intake manifold. The manifold sits on top of this part. The spacer can be fairly large, so the hood will close very tightly against your engine. This mod used to be an actual OEM Honda part that was cut shorter so that the hood could still close, but P2R decided to make a product out of it, making it easier on us, the consumer.

The idea behind the manifold Spacer is that it increases torque by shifting the power band over, slightly reducing horsepower. While this may make you wonder why anyone would want to do this mod, well, quite simple. We dont drag race our cars everyday. The MDX spacer allows us to have fun usable torque for daily driving. Most who have gotten this mod can agree its very worth it.

Compatibility with ported runners: The answer is yes, you can use both, but it is best to taper this intake spacer to the runner size. (Intake runners are discussed further on)

Tapering and porting- Stock, the spacer is the same diameter as the OEM intake manifold. It can be ported an polished or tapered if you plan to run ported intake runners along side of it.

After Market Solutions

P2R Intake Manifold Spacer

Cost: $110
Color: unpolished aluminum
Height: 3/4"

P2R Intake Manifold Thermal Gaskets

Cost: $40
Color: White


Intake Runners

This is the piece that connects the intake manifold to the engine itself. These pieces are available from P2R ported. Ported runners increase mid range torque by a dramatic amount. They take brand new OEM runners, and port them to a larger diameter. As stated above, this mod does work with the intake manifold spacer, as well as the throttle body spacer.

How much power? See this thread:
Installed: P2R Ported Runners, Throttle Body Spacer (Dyno Sheet's)

After Market Solutions

P2R Intake Ported Intake Runners

Cost: $380


FAQ and Notes

Coming soon

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post #2 of 34 Old 09-28-2014, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

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This section is for everything related to the exhaust system (Headers, mufflers, piping, ect)

Cat-back / Axle-back
This is the section of the exhaust that connects to the third catalytic converter, without modifying emissions. In other words, these mods are legal.


-Sound Quality
-Looks far better than stock
-Stainless steel (better against corrosion)
-Flows better than stock (Higher RPM HP gain)


-Possible torque loss in lower RPM
-Possible drone and increase in sound volume with some exhaust
-High cost vs gains made

Note: Ultimately it has been concluded that cat back exhausts offer very little in terms of power gain, but they sure do look nice. Perhaps with a tune better gains can be made.

After Market Solutions
Now that you've read the pro's and con's, here are the known choices available for our vehicle.


Cost: $684
Notes: Coming soon


Cost: $730
Notes: Coming soon

Megan Racing

Cost: $746
Notes: Coming soon

Third catalytic converter
This is an emissions control unit, sometimes known as the "second" cat because this is the second time the exhaust will pass through a converter. The primary purpose of this cat is to reduce emissions at startup when your engine is cold.

The Honda accord's third cat is not hooked up to any oxygen sensors, or sensors of any kind for that matter. This means that it can be directly replaced with a couple of different options without any problems with the car. (Aftermarket bolts in directly in place of OEM third cat, no welding!)

It has been well documented that the third cat is actually the largest restriction in the exhaust system, and perhaps, the largest restriction in the engine as a whole!

High Flow:


Very low smell from startup
Considerably higher flow than stock
May still pass state testing

Very expensive

Cat Delete / Test Pipe

Pro's and cons are the opposite as above except obviously it is even higher flowing!

Note: doing so may cause you to fail your state emissions test visually, or via the test itself if you choose to remove your cats! Also note that removing all of your cats may drastically reduce your lower end torque!

For visual comparisons of the stock cat vs high flow, check out this thread:
(Review)(Pictures) High-Flow THIRD Cat / ATLP J-Pipe

After Market Solutions

ATLP High Flow Cat
Cost: $300

Megan Racing Test Pipe
Cost: $85


J Pipe
This is the piece that connects your third cat to your Pre-cats, which are essentially headers for our vehicle.

This mod is actually very similar to the cat back. Let me explain.

When the results of this mod were released, it was done in conjunction with removing the third cat. The J pipe itself is similar to a cat back system, where the gain is very little but exists because the pipe bends better (mandrel bent), so the exhaust flows a little more evenly / freely.

In conclusion J pipes have a positive effect on your powerband, but not as much as you may have been led to believe. If you have the extra cash and youre looking to squeeze out as much power as you can, even if only a couple of horsepower, then this mod is for you.

Now for the options. There are actually three options for our car, but only two of them are really well known and pretty much even as far pros and cons and people buying them. I'm going to go into some detail these two j pipes, as they work in conjunction with the third cat!

First, we have the ATLP J-Pipe. This pipe is a direct* replacement for the stock one. It does not in any way, shape or form affect the third cat or any other component, nor does it alter emissions. It increases top end HP slightly, with a deep and mellow sound.

Second, we have the Rv6 J-pipe. This pipe not only replaces the OEM J pipe, but it also replaces the OEM cat. This also means YOU CANNOT have a high flow third cat! This J-pipe alters the powerband to increase low end torque. It has a more so raspy dirt bike sound.

Last, there is the M2 Performance pipe. Not much is known about it. You're probably better off keeping stock, or getting one of the two pipes above as there is almost no known information on this pipe.

Note: The cost difference. While the ATLP is cheaper, this does not include a mod for the third cat! So if you got the test pipe to use with it, the cost would be closer to the Rv6 pipe.

After Market Solutions

Cost: $389

Rv6 J-Pipe
Cost: $455

M2 J-Pipe Pipe
Cost: $152


This is the final section of the exhaust system. It connects the j pipe to the engine block. For our car, this is our "headers". Each side of our engine from three cylinders enters one of the two pre cats, which has catalytic converters built in.

The pre-cats are another considerable restriction in our exhaust system, but perhaps not as bad as the third cat. These units come in two variants ONLY from the company Rv6.

Either high flow or cat delete edition are available. The pros and cons are the same as that above for the third cat. HOWEVER, replacement of these cats with pre cat deletes* will make your vehicle very very very, (did I say very?) loud. You will attract all forms of attention if you choose to install these.

Replacement of your pre-cats with these will effect your entire power band for the better. It is possible to get check engine lights however, as you are now in the territory of altering computer monitored emissions equipment! Be warned!


You can do any exhaust mod in conjunction with this mod, but the general consensus is that running pre cat deletes with a stock third cat, or even (possibly) a high flow third cat may cause damage to the third cat because it "overloads"


You will see considerable gains with these. Most notably, you will see a torque gain pickup at a much lower RPM then before. Horsepower gains average around 10-15...but again, whats amazing is that this is throughout the powerband!

After Market Solutions

Pre-Cat Deletes (PCD's)
Cost: $375

High Flow Pre-Cat (HFPC's)
Cost: $575

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post #3 of 34 Old 09-28-2014, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

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This section is for everything related to the engine itself (Pulleys / Parasytic attachments (accessory belt items) / Pistons / Engine Blocks / Ect)

This refers to the Accessory belt pulleys, and modifying them in a way to increase performance

There are two available pulley sets for our car. Either stock size, or underdrive. They claim to increase torque slightly, and throttle response. We will go over both solutions, and if you are interested, you can get the set that is right for you. First, we will discuss the controversy behind this mod.

Understanding the controversy
It is important to note that these mods are another controversial topic as to whether they really affect the performance in a way that is desirable. Part of this stems from harmonic dampening. The aftermarket solution apparently does not have rubber on the wheel, which leads to squealing when the accessory is under heavy load. AKA air conditioning. Also we dont have 100% proof that this is safe for our engine.

Your accessory belts are running the entire time you engine is. As your RPM's go up, so does the RPM's of your accessory belts, which are ultimately "parasites" to your engine. The pulleys that are spinning have a certain amount of mass to them. The idea behind aftermarket pulleys is to reduce this weight. However, engines that are not internally balanced can can have catastrophic problems due to vibration of the flywheel shaft because the pulley is now much much lighter. It is claimed that the J35 engine is in fact internally balanced, but some still fear this may not entirely be the case, and we may suffer the consequences of this mod down the road.

Benefits. The benefits of this mod are said to be pretty considerable by some, and others, not at all. Most likely throttle response will appear to be faster because the engine can now spool up the accessory belt much faster, so if you are in neutral and give the car some gas, your rpms should jump much faster.

Underdrive Pulleys

In this set, the pulleys will use less engine power to spin your accessories. In turn, you will free up some power, albeit not much, at the cost of generating less electricity from your alternator, and slightly more difficult steering as your power steering pump will also be moving slower. This setup is not recommended if you plan to have, or have after an market stereo systems in your vehicle, though some claim success even still.

Stock Pulley

In this setup, the accessory load is not changed, but the pulley is lighter, so your car will have a slightly faster throttle response without any consequences.

After Market Solutions
Now that you've read the pro's and con's, here are the known choices available for our vehicle.

Unorthodox Racing - Stock Diameter Pulley
Cost: $210

Unorthodox Racing - Under Drive Pulley
Cost: $273

Unorthodox Racing - Under Drive Pulley set
Cost: $273



Currently there are no tunes available for the V6 Accord, but we are hoping K-Tuner will offer a solution! When news is released, this section will be updated.


This section is for everything related to the Transmission itself (Bushings / Shifters / Fluids / Clutches / Flywheels / Ect.)

Note: The V6 accord comes in both automatic and manual options. I will start off with all of the sections and information pertaining to the manual. The automatic, I know nothing about, so I will add it in its own section at the end. I will need someone to help me. Thanks.

The manual transmission on the V6 accord is prone to a lot of problems, and when you are increasing the horsepower and torque of your ride, the problems become much more prevalent. Hopefully this guide will ail your troubles if you have any. If not, then its important to make sure you keep your gearbox running at its best. So we will start with maintenance before performance.


The trouble of the third gear grinding....sound familiar? Read on. Even if not, its good to keep up on your maintenance.

Gear grinding is a very common occurrence with this model, regardless of your manual skill level you may have troubles. So here is some things you can do to troubleshoot and hopefully fix the problem.


GM syncromesh friction modified. Highly recommended across the board. Its everyone's favorite. I haven't tried it because quite simply I cannot find it! Your transmissions fluid may not be in good health, or even just really low. If you cannot find GM's fluid, go to honda and get the MTF fluid from them. Their newer version works really well. It'll cost about 40$.

You can do this procedure yourself very easily. If you can change your oil, you can change your Manual trannys fluid. I will link a guide later.

Note: For maximum effect, I recommend changing your MTF fluid again in another month or so. This will ensure that all of the old fluid and deposits are removed from your transmission.

Shifter Bushings

You may have noticed that your shifter has "slop" when putting it into gear. This is due to the shifter cables connecting to the transmission via RUBBER bushings. You can swap these out with two aftermarket solutions. Both will work equally. They will greatly improve shifter quality, and reduce chances of gear grinding. This is a very highly recommended mod.

Base Bushings

These are also available for our vehicles, but it is completely unnecessary. You will notice no difference if you use these or you don't. Considering the OEM base bushings will never go bad, you will never need to concern yourself with these. This is my opinion.

Short Shifter

This is available for our vehicles, and while expensive, it is a very worthy mod that will improve shifting quality about as much as the shifter bushings will. You can install a weighted shift knob at the stock height, so your experience will feel similar to stock, but each shift will be very precise.

Weighted Shift Knob

Again, will dramatically improve shift quality. Once you install a weighted shifter, you will be unable to go back. The added weight does not create more effort for you, the driver, instead, it lessens it considerably.

After Market Solutions

Check out twmperformance for the bushings, knobs, and short shifters discussed above!

Clutches / Flywheels

Not much seems to be known about installing these on our accord and their effect. The only thing known about the flywheel available is that it is lightweight aluminum, and that it is best not to install it if you chose to install aftermarket pulleys.

Steel Braided Clutch Line

Replaces the OEM Rubber section only. This enhances engine bay appearance (If you're worried), as well as improving clutch response slightly. I plan to do this mod soon, and I will give you my feedback, as well as, (hopefully), a guide.


This section is for everything related to the chassis, both sedan and coupe (Sway bars / Tower bars / reinforcing bars) / ect

The vehicles handling is probably the weakest link for the Accord as a whole. We users often refer to it "handles like a boat", due to the vehicle sway when entering sharp turns. Good news! There are many aftermarket products for our vehicle that will greatly improve handling!

Note: I will pull information directly from the product page of throwdownperformance.com, as well as recommend you check them out for these aftermarket parts!

Rear Sway Bar

This is the most popular upgrade for the 8th gen Accord. You have a couple choices, but any of them offer considerable improvement. This bar is installed between the rear two wheels, and contributes a good majority to the sway problem. If nothing else, upgrade this piece to improve handling!

Note: There are two sizes available. A larger bar will cause a larger "shock" to the car and its passengers when you encounter bumps and other anomilies on the road! Choose the bar that is best for the area that you live in. Reviews are positive equally from both users, though some wish that they purchased a larger bar because they didnt find the tradeoff bad.

Rear Endlinks

These connect the rear sway bar to the vehicle. If you upgrade the size of your rear sway bar, you may want to upgrade these to be larger. The general consensus is that these are not required, but recommended if you plan to have your car a very long time.

Front Tower Strut Bar

This is a brace that is located on the top of the front two struts, and again, contributes to body roll. The stock EX-L version of the accord has one OEM, but even still, it can be upgraded to a slightly better one from Ultra Racing. Those who do not have a front tower strut bar have noticed a nice difference when installing these.

The weight transfer and force gathering on one side, causing unstable handling and increasing body roll

The force will spread out by Ultra Racingís strut bar and lower arm bar, stabilize the car and provide solid handling

Front Sway Bar

Same as rear, but only upgrade this bar if you have upgrade your rear bar! Otherwise it may effect handling negatively and create unsafe situations.

You can order this bar from Ultra Racing, or for a fraction of the price you can use Acura TL parts, but will require you to make some minor modifications to your vehicle! View this thread for more information on the install:

TL AWD sway bar in 8G V6

You can order OEM parts from the 2012 Acura TL:

Here is the Part list required:

51300-TK5-A01 (1 x) Spring, Fr. Stabilizer
51306-TK5-A01 (2 x) Bush, Stabilizer Holder
51308-TK4-A00 (2 x) Bracket, Fr. Stabilizer
51320-SEP-A01 (1 x) R. Fr. Stabilizer
51321-SEP-A01 (1 x) L. Fr. Stabilizer
90122-TK4-A00 (4 x) Bolt, Flange (10x38)
94050-12080 (4 x) Nut, Flange (12mm)

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post #4 of 34 Old 09-28-2014, 07:27 PM
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2008 Coupe EX-L V6 w/Navi NBP/Blk
HIDS: Xetronic Digital 6000K
HFP Suspension
HFP Body Kit
Linea Corse Dynas 19x8.5
OEM Backup Sensor Kit
OEM Rearview Camera
35% Tint
RV6 J Pipe
P2R Ported Intake Runner
P2R Throttle Body Spacer
Magnaflow Custom Quad Exhaust
TSX Rear Sway Bar
Customized Turn Signal Mirrors
Country Joy Crafts V-1 Mirror Mount
Debadged----Odyssey Lower Grille
Headlight Armor Tinted Tails
Monochromatic Door Handles
Ultra Racing Front Upper Strut Bar
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post #5 of 34 Old 09-28-2014, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

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Originally Posted by j-ro View Post

If there is anything anyone wants me to add to the guide or change, please let me know! I realize there is a lot in this guide either incomplete, or a little opinionated, but I will continue to modify it.


2008 6-6 Red Coupe - SOLD
New Car: 1972 Datsun 240z with Stroker 7.0L LS3, 6 speed manual
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post #6 of 34 Old 09-29-2014, 06:59 AM
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Good luck! Hopefully someone will get credit as many of the OG who performed such mods never got a sticky.

Certified 2009 EX-L Coupe - VCM - PMM
Paid $21,500 cash on 01/11

MPG: 22 City / 32 Hwy 75MPH
0w-20 cap
3.7L TL-SHAWD IM - Functional
65w H9 Lo & Fog / 80w HB3 Hi
Cargo hooks & net
Crosstour knob
Duralast Platinum 24F
I4 hood rod
MDX spacer & ported
Mobil 1 0w-20 & M1-110
NAPA #18514
Odyssey garnish - Flush fit
Painted splash guards
Rear: Center Belt, head rests & ANC delete
Service Grade Electricals
Test Pipe
Window UP mod
Valvoline Type VI
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post #7 of 34 Old 09-29-2014, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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My guess is because there are several performance threads, and if they were all stickied then the first page on drive Accord would be stickies...

I took inspiration from the suspension thread.

2008 6-6 Red Coupe - SOLD
New Car: 1972 Datsun 240z with Stroker 7.0L LS3, 6 speed manual
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post #8 of 34 Old 09-29-2014, 08:10 AM
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Great thread thanks for putting together!

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post #9 of 34 Old 09-29-2014, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

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Thank You

I updated the guide with some of the Chassis section, more to come.

If anyone has any links or information to add, let me know.

2008 6-6 Red Coupe - SOLD
New Car: 1972 Datsun 240z with Stroker 7.0L LS3, 6 speed manual
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post #10 of 34 Old 09-29-2014, 04:40 PM
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Thanks for your time and the info.!

Sometimes less is more. Sometimes it isn't.
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post #11 of 34 Old 09-30-2014, 03:23 PM
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Thanks for posting!
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post #12 of 34 Old 10-05-2014, 10:22 AM

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good stuff here! thanks

2008 Accord Coupe 6-6 NBP
Daily Rims: 20" Enkei GTC01 F: 20x9.5 +38 with 245/30/20 Hankook Ventus V12 R: 20x10 +30 with 255/30/20 Hankoon Ventus V12
Current Mods: Takeda SRI | ATLP Quad Exhaust | ATLP V2 J-pipe | ATLP high flow 3rd Cat | BC Racing BR-type coilovers | TSX Rear Sway Bar | 6000K HIDs Low Beams and Foglights | DRL Delete | LED Interior | Independent Foglight On Mod
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post #13 of 34 Old 10-05-2014, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

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Originally Posted by V6NYCDD View Post
Also, another engine mod/suspension mod is the Stiffy Torque Damper.
But it requires you to have coilovers since, they will not fit over the OEM tophat studs.
I'd recommend Progress rear endlinks but mine got so noisy and annoying to keep greasing, that I just switched to "MOOG Problem Solver", no more annoying metal on metal clunking.
Thank you for your input. I didnt add the stiffy because someone was saying its bad for your engine mounts (?), but there was an alternative part available or something. I'll look into it and add the information.

So... about intakes...

So I've been contemplating an aftermarket intake, because after I installed my Manifold spacer, I can no longer seal my stock airbox! I have been driving around for a while with it unsealed, which no doubt is not good.

I want to experiment with building a cold air intake that is shorter than the Injen one, (to prevent throttle lag and hydro-lock possibilities) but can still receive colder air. Unfortunately the front of our vehicle is pretty much sealed up behind the radiator. I'm going to check out the car in detail tomorrow and see if I cant figure out a good spot.

I plan to expirament with an amazon intake:

Its very cheap, so if I mess up cutting it into pieces, no harm done, and if it works, I'll buy a nice Injen filter replacement.

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post #14 of 34 Old 10-05-2014, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by V6NYCDD View Post
The problem with those off-brand intakes is the position of the MAF sensor, or depth of the port itself, if not machined properly could throw lean codes, I think, dont quote me
Quoting you. You are correct. They can, and most likely will. However, I wasn't too worried because I could then buy an Injen intake, or when the tune comes out, correct for the error of the cheap intake.

But then you said:

Originally Posted by V6NYCDD View Post
I'm gonna look for some pics of my Injen while I was installing it, with the bumper off, if you need some reference.
My filter hides behind the fog light, you wanna bring yours more up under the headlight?
If you could get me more reference pictures, that would be great!
I could then maybe make the injen intake slightly shorter, and just buy it from the start instead of the cheap ones, which would save me some money.

And yes, I would like it up closer under the headlight.


Okay for the engine brace thing, here is the original post: Link

Check out post #6

EDIT 2: Also check out post #8

The guy recommends NRG Brand instead of stiffy.

I dont know much about these parts. I havent yet tried either.

2008 6-6 Red Coupe - SOLD
New Car: 1972 Datsun 240z with Stroker 7.0L LS3, 6 speed manual
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post #15 of 34 Old 10-10-2014, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
8th Gen 6-6 Red Coupe

Apple Slicer's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2014
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Can a mod please move this to the shiny new performance section please?

2008 6-6 Red Coupe - SOLD
New Car: 1972 Datsun 240z with Stroker 7.0L LS3, 6 speed manual
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check valve delete, slave cylinder mod

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