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post #1 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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manual transmission oil change

i want to take my car to a mechanic for some service (oil change, etc.). that might include changing the transmission oil - the car is a 5-speed manual transmission 1994 Accord EX.
i haven't changed the transmission oil since i bought the car in June 2005, and i don't think the previous owner did it as well (he never mentioned anything like that, and i don't see anything like that in the maintenance records he gave me when i bought the car)...so the car is 12 years old, has 88k miles on it, and probably never had its transmission oil changed (as far as being owned by me and the previous guy; don't know about the first owner though).

do you think i need to change the transmission oil? and if so, what kind of oil do i need to use? the manual say the same type of oil being used for the engine is okay, however honda has specific manual transmission fluids...
also, it's just drain-and-refill or it needs to be flushed? (i guess it's just drain-and-refill, since i've heard that flushing the oil out might cause bad things happen to the transmission because it brings up all the dirt already in the fluid)

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post #2 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 12:48 PM
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Change it. The transmission fluid is basically 10W-30(? or similar viscosity) engine oil with additives in it. As with any engine oil, it not only breaks down with use but also with time. It's so cheap that there's no real reason not to change it. I've done mine twice in 25K - overkill, but I wanted the new Honda synthetic fluid. Make sure you use Honda brand and make sure they give you part number xxxxx-9031. The old part number -9016 is dino oil and -9031 is synthetic and they cost the same.

I don't think it's necessary to flush it, however if done properly it will not cause any harm. Most "flushes" are basically pumping used transmission fluid through the tranny with a machine - this is the bad kind. The kind you'd want to do is: drain/fill, drive for a few miles, drain/fill again, drive more, etc. I personally don't think this is necessary as mine has always come out looking pretty darn clean.

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post #3 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the fast reply
could you give me the full part number please? i want to see if i can find it online (the dealer in our town is very far). also, if i buy it online, how many quarts do i need to buy?
also, using the synthetic oil in an old car (1994) is okay? is it like using the synthetic oil in the engine which is not recommended for old cars (this is what i've read on forums. i'm basically a noob here!)?

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post #4 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 01:03 PM
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08798-9031 or 08798-9031A (Acura part # - same thing, check your Acura dealers too they might be CHEAPER, mine was). If you decide to order the 9031 part, make sure it's what they give you. I called a dealer 1/2 hour away from my house and they said they had 104 qts in stock. They LIED, they only had the only 08798-9016A in stock and made me drive the 30 minutes + $3 bridge toll for nothing. By this time I would expect all dealers would have the new ones, but if you are in a small town then maybe not The only way I got the new part was because Acura sent ONE case to each dealer and I made the guy go into the far corners of his stockroom to find that one case
New Honda/Acura Advanced MTF

Synthetic oil should be okay in the tranny...mine has 140K and it's seems to be doing okay. As long as it's not leaking. You should order 3 for a drain/fill, more like 10-12 for a flush. I actually only generally use 1.5-1.8 qts but the stated capacity is 2.0 I believe, so I would order 3 and have a spare around than drive around trying to find another bottle with a half full tranny.
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post #5 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenjiBoy650
I've done mine twice in 25K - overkill, but I wanted the new Honda synthetic fluid.
Pfft...I changed mine over at around 6500-6800 miles...

I will admit though, although I had a fewer rough shifts after switching to the new "advanced" MTF, its been much smoother esp with the colder weather now on top of us (figure the roughness was the little bit of old MTF still in the system since it only lasted about 100 miles).

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2006 Graphite Grey Accord EX-V6 6MT Coupe
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post #6 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 02:03 PM
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I still love my new fluid and it has about 3k on it.

Much better at shifting under 20 degrees outside.....
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post #7 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the replies...you guys are great

btw, is there also a crush washer that i have to change with the transmission oil (just like the one that has to be changed when changing the engine oil)?

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post #8 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 05:15 PM
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There is...and there might be more than 1 as there are 3 bolts: drain, fill, and check (not sure if they all have washers though...I know the drain does).

Not sure if they really need to be replaced, but considering how cheap they are it can't hurt if you are doing the change yourself.

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2006 Graphite Grey Accord EX-V6 6MT Coupe
MODS: HFP Suspension, AEM V2, V6P J-Pipe, TL 20mm RSB, Comptech Short Shifter, Corsport Bushings, Groundkit, HIRs, Spoiler, ClearGuard Clearbra, Splashguards, WT Floorliners, PA11-HON2, TL Keyfob
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post #9 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 05:50 PM
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I believe our fill and check bolt are the same bolt (F22/F23 tranny). I didn't change my crush washer and it doesn't leak but as mentioned it's not a bad idea
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post #10 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 08:02 PM
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I replaced the MTF in my 1992 Accord with Amsoil Synthetic MTF. The shift quality before was quite bad, especially when cold. Now it is much better. Second gear engagement still requires a bit of a yank on the stick, but on the whole much better. Cold is now not an issue.

The car had 144K miles on it when I replaced the fluid. I don't know if it had every been replaced before, but the oil didn't seem to have any metal bits suspended in it. Changing it was a piece of cake.. except for refilling it through the top hole using the big syringe/plunger. Basically you need to keep sucking out of the bottle then emptying it out into the hole, until oil reaches the top. I would let is settle for a bit before you are sure you have it completely full.

Good luck!

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post #11 of 22 Old 12-07-2006, 09:28 PM
ECU resets fix the idle..

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I assume that the fluid in our '93 got done at 80,000km, and I've just had it dine again at 170,000km. Used the genuine Honda stuff, and it shifts so much better now, especially when the car hasn't warmed up yet.

It's pretty easy to do if you can get to the right places, and find a way to get the oil into the hole, otherwise just buy the fluid and have someone else do it.
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post #12 of 22 Old 12-08-2006, 03:35 AM
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Heh...funny that I post I had no issues, then last night driving home it was a little "grumpy" going into 2nd and 3rd...but then in its defense it was unbelievably cold here last night, and when moving my mom's 2002 Sunfire 5MT into the driveway after I got home...that car's MT felt like it had molasses instead of MTF in it!

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2006 Graphite Grey Accord EX-V6 6MT Coupe
MODS: HFP Suspension, AEM V2, V6P J-Pipe, TL 20mm RSB, Comptech Short Shifter, Corsport Bushings, Groundkit, HIRs, Spoiler, ClearGuard Clearbra, Splashguards, WT Floorliners, PA11-HON2, TL Keyfob
TIRES: 215/50R17 Fuzion ZRIs, 205/60R16 Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2s (on steelies)
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post #13 of 22 Old 12-14-2006, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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okie...bought three quarts from the local dealer (i had to pay ~ $8 for shipping if i wanted to buy them online, which defies the purpose).

since i have to do an oil change (5000 miles since the last one) and check to see if there's coolant leaking in the oil (coolant getting low little by little since last year when i changed the timing belt) as well, i don't want to take my car to my usual mechanic who did the timing belt (plus water pump and all the gaskets around it)...i want another mechanic to check it, and that mechanic does not have any appointments till next week, and i'll be out of town next week...guess i have to wait for some time now

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post #14 of 22 Old 12-24-2006, 05:07 AM
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Sorcerer,
As Benji suggested, I would flush the transmission. Here is the way Honda recommends it be done (granted, this is for an A/T but the theory is the same for a M/T):
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the ATF.
3. Refill the A/T with Honda ATF-Z1.
4. Start the engine.
5. Press the brake pedal, move the shift lever to D4,
and release the brake pedal.
6. Press the accelerator pedal so the speedometer
reads 50 mph. Make sure the A/T shifts through the
first three lower gears and into 4th gear and the
torque converter locks up. Release the accelerator
pedal.
7. Press the brake pedal to stop the front wheels.
8. Move the shift lever to R, and then to N. Release
the brake pedal.
9. Repeat the shifting procedure (steps 5 through 8)
four more times.
10. Turn off the engine.
11. Drain the ATF.
12. Repeat steps 3 through 11 two more times.
13. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
14. Refill the A/T with Honda ATF-Z1.
This process involves 12 quarts of transmission fluid which would cost somewhere between $60-70. Add about an hour's labor charge (it's $75/hour at my dealer) and the total cost is around $140 - not bad considering the fluid has never been changed in your car. I expect you'll notice a significant improvement in the performance of your transmission.
Going forward, I would do the drain/fill (the 3 qt process) every 30k miles at the very least. I've chosen to do this every 15k.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE DA!

'16 Honda Accord EX-L
'12 Acura MDX
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post #15 of 22 Old 12-24-2006, 11:49 AM
ECU resets fix the idle..

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Quote:
Originally Posted by desmonsm
Sorcerer,
As Benji suggested, I would flush the transmission. Here is the way Honda recommends it be done (granted, this is for an A/T but the theory is the same for a M/T):
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the ATF.
3. Refill the A/T with Honda ATF-Z1.
4. Start the engine.
5. Press the brake pedal, move the shift lever to D4,
and release the brake pedal.
6. Press the accelerator pedal so the speedometer
reads 50 mph. Make sure the A/T shifts through the
first three lower gears and into 4th gear and the
torque converter locks up. Release the accelerator
pedal.
7. Press the brake pedal to stop the front wheels.
8. Move the shift lever to R, and then to N. Release
the brake pedal.
9. Repeat the shifting procedure (steps 5 through 8)
four more times.
10. Turn off the engine.
11. Drain the ATF.
12. Repeat steps 3 through 11 two more times.
13. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
14. Refill the A/T with Honda ATF-Z1.
This process involves 12 quarts of transmission fluid which would cost somewhere between $60-70. Add about an hour's labor charge (it's $75/hour at my dealer) and the total cost is around $140 - not bad considering the fluid has never been changed in your car. I expect you'll notice a significant improvement in the performance of your transmission.
Going forward, I would do the drain/fill (the 3 qt process) every 30k miles at the very least. I've chosen to do this every 15k.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE DA!
Huh? His signature says he has a 5-speed


(Or am I confused again? Christmas morning, waiting for the others to wake up...)

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