PCV IAC, etc - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-19-2009, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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PCV IAC, etc

I don't think this is mentioned in the user manual. Is there a rule of thumb for how often to clean/replace the PCV or IAC on the 7th Gen Accord Sedan I4?

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post #2 of 9 Old 06-19-2009, 05:39 PM
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What year of 7th gen I4? '05 and up don't have an IAC. DBW just opens the throttle more to maintain idle where it needs to be. If it's earlier, if the IAC is working right, leave it alone. I've had bad luck cleaning them.

I recommend replacing the PCV valve at 60k, I've seen several with broken springs at that mileage.


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post #3 of 9 Old 06-19-2009, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I4 05 sedan. No it's NOT DBW, that was either Gen 7.5 or 8. 05 is Gen 7.

At 50K now, will wait on the PCV. Had to lookup online where the hell it was at, couldn't find the dumb thing.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-20-2009, 08:23 AM
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When its time to replace the pcv make sure its an oem one. That way you don't get a thin cheap spring thats more prone to break. This info is from Fred from a previous pm.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-20-2009, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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So that just leaves the IAC. Does it really need periodic cleaning if you use good gas and drive it as a DD, NO racing. Just trying to plan for upcoming services. I am at 50K. It's funny how much you should do to an engine that has "no scheduled maintenance for 100K miles"
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-22-2009, 08:11 AM
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Have you replaced the atf recently or at all? Now would be great time if you havn't. Its one of the few things I disagree with the owners manual on.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-23-2009, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-23-2009, 03:12 PM
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Is there a way to test the PCV valve? It's a tad expensive for what it is...

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post #9 of 9 Old 01-07-2018, 07:54 AM
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Be mindful - aftermarket IAC might require "swap/repeat"

I'll cross-post this as a "PSA - Public Savings Alert": If you are going to replace the I.A.C. Valve, and opt for aftermarket (which I do all of the time with generally good results); do yourself a favor and BUY TWO...lest you get a bad one, and not know it... Having had to bear the time/expense of pulling the original {Denso}, believed bad, and swapping with a Driveworks {AdvaceAuto non-OEM}, I was thrown by exactly the same "hunting" behavior.

Ultimately, forsaking 'what are the chances of both bad?' thoughts, I swapped in the much more expensive OEM part - and PROBLEM SOLVED. Now; I suspect if I had bought a few aftermarkets, one would have worked fine. It's easy to pull and replace, so you can save money there (with not much to the innards, on a near twenty year old car, etc...) - just be aware that you can easily get a DoA part if you don't buy from the stealership.

Be advised - decide up front!
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