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post #1 of 8 Old 04-09-2013, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Need Help with Size and Offset for 20" CV3's

Hi Peeps,

I'm going to be picking up a set of 20" Vossen CV's w/Falkin 453 tires.

I'm stuck on what size and offset to get for the front.

I love the concave look on both front and back, which can only be acheived by going with 20x10 or 20x10.5 wheel in the CV3's.

Most shops I've spoken to are suggesting 20x9 in the front and 20x10.5 in the back.

My question is, has anyone tried running 20x10 in the front and how much modifying will i need and what offset do i need to make this work. ie: roll fender, pull fenders out, cut liner out and of course get adjustable ball joints for the front to adjust camber.

I think that going 20x10.5 in the front is definately going to require all of the above mods, but not sure about 20x10. Can anyone provide any feedback.

I've seen lots of video's/pics of people running 20x10.5 all the way around, but I don't think that these people drive these cars as daily/all year round like i do.


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post #2 of 8 Old 04-09-2013, 09:53 AM
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I have 20x10 +45 CV3 all around and the only mods up front was to bend the tabs back that hold the fender liner. No pulling, no rolling. Now the rears were rolled when I had my 22s so I cant really answer if its needed for 20x10s but better safe than sorry.

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-09-2013, 10:24 AM
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Correct the 20x9+38 is recommended but if you are willing to run the 20x10 or 10.5 +45 that is up to you. Modifications or adjustments may be needed.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-09-2013, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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REZ - That's Awesome news to here, So i should be good with 20x10 in the front with minimal mods. Did you need any camber adjustment in the front at all?

Diego - Is there a noticable difference in the concave from 10 to 10.5?

I'm pretty sure that i'm going to go 10.5 Rear and 10 up front. Any draw backs to going this route anyone, other then not being able to rotate tires front to back.
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-09-2013, 07:26 PM
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i didnt need anything up front. all i have in the rear is the 1 piece arm that i had with my eibach springs. i asked the shop if i needed the other 2 arms and they said no, even with my coils. the only reason i didnt go 10.5 in the rear is that i wanted full tire rotation, that seems to be the only drawback i can think of if you went that route..
as far as concave 10 compared to 10.5, im sure theres a slight difference with that 1/2 inch, and maybe offset plays a part in it too. im more than happy with my 10s and you can see they are concave.

wait.. you coupe or sedan??

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post #6 of 8 Old 04-12-2013, 01:05 PM
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Will this set up work with 9th generation
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-15-2013, 12:04 AM
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The offset is going to determine how concave the wheel is. For ex: a 20x10.5 doesnt necessary mean is going to be more concave or have a bigger lip then a 20x9.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-16-2013, 09:32 AM
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, Rez is correct if your planning on going with a F 10.5 +45 all required if flatting the upper fender tabs and also remember to get the correct tire size, Yes you can tell the difference between a X10 | 10.5 not a huge diffrence but yes.

This is a good fitment set up, not super aggressive but semi-aggressive It only requires Front flatten tabs and Rear roll, no pulling etc ....
F20X10.5 +45 | R20X10.5 +25

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