Slotted vs Slotted & Drilled Rotors - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Slotted vs Slotted & Drilled Rotors

Long story short, my factory front rotors are slightly warped probably from driving too fast and braking too hard.

I was about to just have the warranty cover them but decided I want aftermarket slotted or slotted & drilled rotors.

I just need some help on the pros & cons of the two. I don't do autocross or any type of racing so i was leaning toward just the slotted rotors.

What do you think? I need your incites and help deciding what is the best choice . I know very little about brake rotors lol.


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post #2 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 09:10 AM

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If your rotors are warped, the slotted rotors don't help in heat dissipate heat more than your regular vented rotors. If you want to get rid of more heat, you should buy cross-drilled rotors for the fronts. You don't need to go with cross-drilled rotors in the rear as the rear does about 20-30% of braking (not much heat back there). Also, if you go with cross drilled rotors in the rear, you won't really notice a difference in braking performance, but you will notice a difference in noise as the rear brakes are not vented.

My suggestion to you if you REALLY wanna go with an aftermarket stopping setup, get cross-drilled and vented rotors in the front along with some better brake pads along with some DOT4 high temp brake fluid. Also get some slotted rotors in the rear with some new pads. You will notice much better braking after the rotors and pads seat in.

Keepin mind, you might not need these heavier duty brakes. If you are driving down a hill and are using your brakes to keep you from accelerating, your brakes will get hot very fast. And if you were to hit a puddle at the bottom of the hill, your rotors will go from very hot to cool quickly, and that could have caused your rotors to warp.
If you drive your car hard and get your brakes hot, and don't let your brakes to cool down before you park the car, your rotors can warp too.

You should only be getting an aftermarket stopping setup if you are experiencing brake fade and are not stopping hard enough for your likings. Don't buy them just because. You should still be under warranty and Honda should replace your stuff for free. If the situation where your brakes warp again, then get some new brakes. My $0.02 for ya


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post #3 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milan.mastracci View Post
If your rotors are warped, the slotted rotors don't help in heat dissipate heat more than your regular vented rotors. If you want to get rid of more heat, you should buy cross-drilled rotors for the fronts. You don't need to go with cross-drilled rotors in the rear as the rear does about 20-30% of braking (not much heat back there). Also, if you go with cross drilled rotors in the rear, you won't really notice a difference in braking performance, but you will notice a difference in noise as the rear brakes are not vented.

My suggestion to you if you REALLY wanna go with an aftermarket stopping setup, get cross-drilled and vented rotors in the front along with some better brake pads along with some DOT4 high temp brake fluid. Also get some slotted rotors in the rear with some new pads. You will notice much better braking after the rotors and pads seat in.

Keepin mind, you might not need these heavier duty brakes. If you are driving down a hill and are using your brakes to keep you from accelerating, your brakes will get hot very fast. And if you were to hit a puddle at the bottom of the hill, your rotors will go from very hot to cool quickly, and that could have caused your rotors to warp.
If you drive your car hard and get your brakes hot, and don't let your brakes to cool down before you park the car, your rotors can warp too.

You should only be getting an aftermarket stopping setup if you are experiencing brake fade and are not stopping hard enough for your likings. Don't buy them just because. You should still be under warranty and Honda should replace your stuff for free. If the situation where your brakes warp again, then get some new brakes. My $0.02 for ya
Ya I took my to my dealer for replacements and agreed that they would take care of the issue for free under the warranty.

Just reading in this forum and from previous honda owners, honda rotors seem to warp a lot. Don't know if it is due to the quality of rotors they make...but for whatever the reason...it does.


So instead of having to change them out again using another OEM rotor, i want to go aftermarket. Just need to figure out whether to get slotted or drilled slotted.

Hard to decided whether to the slightly aggressive route and buy the slotted as i am not a racer nor have a big brake kit to get the drilled and slotted.

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post #4 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.one View Post
Long story short, my factory front rotors are slightly warped probably from driving too fast and braking too hard.

I was about to just have the warranty cover them but decided I want aftermarket slotted or slotted & drilled rotors.

I just need some help on the pros & cons of the two. I don't do autocross or any type of racing so i was leaning toward just the slotted rotors.

What do you think? I need your incites and help deciding what is the best choice . I know very little about brake rotors lol.
How many miles do you have? I'm considering bringing in my car to have the brakes replaces as well especially if its covered under warranty.

It's ridiculous that I already have braking vibrations at 33K miles.
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 12:54 PM

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Well here is my advice, go to honda, get new pads and rotors. Go home, take them off and you'll have brand new rotors/pads to sell, and buy new cross drilled ones to replace them.

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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How many miles do you have? I'm considering bringing in my car to have the brakes replaces as well especially if its covered under warranty.

It's ridiculous that I already have braking vibrations at 33K miles.
I just passed the 20k point. My car started pulsing around 17k after my second oil change/ tire rotation.

I figure since I have a manual and pull my E-brake every time i'm parked...i may need to check my rear rotors also.

Just ordered my slotted & cross-drilled rotors for the front. I'll post picks when I receive and install. Unfortunately, I have to leave for a business trip for 2 weeks so it will be early June when I install lol.

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post #7 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 01:44 PM
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You are not warping your rotors, you are leaving embedded pad material on them which feels like they are warped.

It takes a heck of a lot of heat to warp a rotor, and your car ain't generating it.

I autocross all the time....

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post #8 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 04:59 PM
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You are not warping your rotors, you are leaving embedded pad material on them which feels like they are warped.

It takes a heck of a lot of heat to warp a rotor, and your car ain't generating it.

I autocross all the time....
you're right that most issues attributed to "warped" rotors are actually caused by deposits on the rotor faces. this usually happens when the brakes are held down at a stop while they are hot. it stands to reason then that since hot brakes can leave deposits behind, the opposite must be true, and that's been my experience. although i've never had issues with my own cars (i try to never hold the brakes at a stop when they're hot), i've been able to significantly reduce the vibration in others' cars by getting the brakes nice and hot and then applying light pressure to let the pads sweep the rotors clean. if you do try this, you just have to be really careful, because if you're not you can easily boil the brake fluid and you'll experience what's call brake fade. pedal goes to the floor and you feel hardly any braking and go, "oh sh!t!" haha. also, you run the risk of leaving more deposits on the rotor if you come to a complete stop and leave the pads in contact with the rotors. because of that, most find it easier to just get the rotors turned.
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-23-2014, 08:20 PM
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Many, many threads on here about "warped" rotors. It is possible to warp a rotor physically by torquing the nuts improperly, but that kind of warpage is reversible because it does not permanently deform the rotor.

The other "warpage" is really uneven debris layer deposition on the rotor that causes the vibrration - sort of like a speed bump or rumble strip on your rotor.

Good places to check:

Warped Rotors especially Post 7

Rotors keep warping!
Post 7 (but I'm biased)


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post #10 of 11 Old 05-24-2014, 05:23 AM
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I used Slotted/Cross Drilled Cryogenic Treated Rotors from Stop Tech. Braided lines and synthetic fluid with Hawk pads on my Turbo PT Cruiser. They stop great the rotors stayed looking new through multiple pad changes, and after 7 years looked new. It will be what I go to if this warped rotor thing hits me.

If you think you have brake pad material on your rotors you can sand them. Not around in a circle but center out to the edge. Remember these rotors are very hard steel so you can have at it with sanding. Then read on bedding in new pads and try that.
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post #11 of 11 Old 05-26-2014, 03:21 PM
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I used Slotted/Cross Drilled Cryogenic Treated Rotors from Stop Tech. Braided lines and synthetic fluid with Hawk pads on my Turbo PT Cruiser. They stop great the rotors stayed looking new through multiple pad changes, and after 7 years looked new. It will be what I go to if this warped rotor thing hits me.

If you think you have brake pad material on your rotors you can sand them. Not around in a circle but center out to the edge. Remember these rotors are very hard steel so you can have at it with sanding. Then read on bedding in new pads and try that.
That^^^^^ rotor and pad combo worked really good on my TL -S and is what I would do again too.
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