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post #1 of 17 Old 04-23-2012, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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2004 Honda Accord starter install instructions and layout

My car is not starting it clicks once it's a brand new battery AAA guy said it was the starer. Does anyone have the layout of the starter I'm going to change it myself since I can get the starter for half the cost and I dont have the money to pay for labor right now. Please help thank you all in advance..

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post #2 of 17 Old 04-23-2012, 09:23 AM
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post #3 of 17 Old 04-23-2012, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mimis View Post
My car is not starting it clicks once it's a brand new battery AAA guy said it was the starer. Does anyone have the layout of the starter I'm going to change it myself since I can get the starter for half the cost and I dont have the money to pay for labor right now. Please help thank you all in advance..
Step #3 from the previous poster is the fun part!

Before replacing the starter, be sure to have the battery fully charged and then load tested to be sure it's good -- brand new batteries do occasionally bite the dust. Then check your battery cables and cable connections (with a multimeter) from the battery to ground and over to the back of the alternator. Remember to think *safety* when you do all of this around a live battery.

Did the car just start clicking one day on attempted start and keep doing that whenever you try to start it, or did it occasionally do it and then finally start doing it every time? That's what mine did and I finally pulled the intake manifold w/ throttle body and replaced the starter with a rebuilt unit from a parts store. It was *much* less expensive than the parts and labor would have been from a Honda dealer. Take your time removing the manifold assembly, and be sure to button everything up (especially wiring harnesses and connectors) properly. The hardest part for me was hooking the throttle and cruise control cables back up -- just had to tinker with them to get the cable ends hooked back in their proper positions on the throttle body.

Good luck...
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post #4 of 17 Old 04-23-2012, 02:20 PM
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Have someone bang on the starter while you crank the key. Should start if you just need to move it or something. Use something metallic, like a lug tool or hammer.

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post #5 of 17 Old 04-24-2012, 08:50 AM
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Hey, if it is the starter, now might be a great time to upgrade to a TSX intake manifold!
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post #6 of 17 Old 12-27-2012, 02:57 PM
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Is it possible to fit the MT starter into a AT car?

edit: it's a silly question, but i'm asking because a local starter shop is suggesting to go with the starter that has the solenoid separated. Based on what i've found is that the starter with solenoid separated is for the MT transmissions and not AT.

never-mind to my question. Turns out there is a Mitsubishi starter that has the solenoid detached.
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post #7 of 17 Old 04-27-2014, 05:49 PM
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Ahhh... here we go; instead of starting another thread I should've resurrected this one first. Funny enough, I commented in this thread almost two years ago exactly! Now I'm doing the job and, no, not upgrading the manifold. I'd rather upgrade a swift kick in the nuts to some engineers over at Honda.

So I have the starter for the 2003-05 manual trans. How in the f*&% are you supposed to get to that 14mm bolt up top without detaching the metal hard line? I've been at it for over an hour just trying to devise a method to get that bolt out. Only thing I can think of is disconnecting that metal hard line so I can (hopefully) move it out the way. But I hope there is another way to get that 14mm off!!

Bump.... anyone? Has anyone replaced the starter with this configuration? Really curious how it was done. If I come up with an idea and it works, I'll post it. In the meantime, I'm curious to know if anyone else already did it and has an answer. So far, if you have a 2003-05 Accord 5-speed, you're pretty much screwed with online instructions and vids to remove it, since all of the vids I've found only deal with the starter that has the ring terminal on top.
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post #8 of 17 Old 04-27-2014, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jharris View Post

So I have the starter for the 2003-05 manual trans. How in the f*&% are you supposed to get to that 14mm bolt up top without detaching the metal hard line? I've been at it for over an hour just trying to devise a method to get that bolt out. Only thing I can think of is disconnecting that metal hard line so I can (hopefully) move it out the way. But I hope there is another way to get that 14mm off!!
Did you remove the manifold or not? I haven't had to do mine yet.

The Honda Elements and CRV have the same engines as us and they seemed to have the same problems.


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post #9 of 17 Old 04-28-2014, 04:06 AM
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Did you remove the manifold or not? I haven't had to do mine yet.

The Honda Elements and CRV have the same engines as us and they seemed to have the same problems.

Yes, already detached the intake manifold from the engine. That, surprisingly, was the easy part!
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post #10 of 17 Old 04-28-2014, 05:03 AM
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Top bolt was a bitch on mine. Very tight and no clearance to swing a wrench. A 1/2" drive air impact wrench got it with little trouble. If you can borrow or rent an impact, extensions and possibly a universal to give you the clearance for the impact gun.

If you do all your own work, a 1/2" drive electric gun is a good purchase.
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post #11 of 17 Old 04-28-2014, 06:57 AM
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Top bolt was a bitch on mine. Very tight and no clearance to swing a wrench. A 1/2" drive air impact wrench got it with little trouble. If you can borrow or rent an impact, extensions and possibly a universal to give you the clearance for the impact gun.

If you do all your own work, a 1/2" drive electric gun is a good purchase.
CKaz, I'm going to assume you have the same starter as mine, with all of the connections facing the passenger side? I've toyed with the thought of seeing if I can disconnect the attachments for that metal hard line to swing it out of the way, or disconnect that rubber hose running behind the starter to buy more real estate, but I think I'm going to get an impact wrench today with some extensions. I'm already $340 in just for the starter, what's another $100 for a good Craftsman impact?
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post #12 of 17 Old 04-28-2014, 09:33 AM
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Yes, 4 Cylinder (2005). The impact I used is capable of 550 ft-lbs, and it took a bit of time to break loose (not minutes), so that bolt was in there pretty good. Check the specs on the impact you're looking at. Some of the rechargeable impact guns are very powerful, and more compact than the older corded models. Get the most powerful you can afford. Useful for wheels, suspension work as well.

Reassembly is easy with a ratchet or box wrench, but still a tough spot to swing the wrench.

As with many cars, assembly on the production line is easy, once the drivetrain is installed in the car, little consideration is given for future maintenance. Honda is better than most in this regard. Starter on my V8 Audi required removal of the front suspension arms, front driveshaft, motor mount, sway bar & chassis bracket just to see the starter.
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post #13 of 17 Old 04-28-2014, 10:04 AM
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That bolt is only 33 ft/lbs torque. They must be using loctite on it or something.

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post #14 of 17 Old 04-28-2014, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJKaz View Post
Yes, 4 Cylinder (2005). The impact I used is capable of 550 ft-lbs, and it took a bit of time to break loose (not minutes), so that bolt was in there pretty good. Check the specs on the impact you're looking at. Some of the rechargeable impact guns are very powerful, and more compact than the older corded models. Get the most powerful you can afford. Useful for wheels, suspension work as well.

Reassembly is easy with a ratchet or box wrench, but still a tough spot to swing the wrench.

As with many cars, assembly on the production line is easy, once the drivetrain is installed in the car, little consideration is given for future maintenance. Honda is better than most in this regard. Starter on my V8 Audi required removal of the front suspension arms, front driveshaft, motor mount, sway bar & chassis bracket just to see the starter.
Well, I got the starter out. Didn't need any power tools; as a matter of fact, I managed to loosen the top bolt with a 1/4" ratchet because my 3/8" wouldn't fit between the bolt and the knock sensor. The bottom bolt is torqued on with the strength of God but it came off with a little muscle, using a 3/8" with the smallest ratchet head I could find. I'm going to re-assemble it all tomorrow.

This is the hardest starter I've had to replace. My wife's 4 cylinder Camry I can replace the starter in 20 minutes. I'm over 4 hours in, between yesterday and today, including just trying to figure out the right combination of sockets and ratchets to use to get the starter bolts out. Between the clutch master cylinder and this, Honda is kicking my ass with the way they engineered things to fit this vehicle. As you said, little consideration given to ease of maintenance for certain items.
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post #15 of 17 Old 05-02-2014, 04:26 AM
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Got the starter replaced and everything buttoned up. The new starter starts so much faster than the old one. Now, the problem I am having is a bouncy idle. I reused my intake manifold gasket because it was in (visibly) good condition. Not sure if it's possible to put it on backwards; I might spray some carb cleaner around that area to see if the idle evens. All of my sensors and hoses are connected as far as I can tell. The only other thing I can think of is having to do an idle relearn since I had the battery and sensors disconnected for a few days. Thoughts?

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