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post #1 of 18 Old 02-21-2012, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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P2646 + check engine light

Hi gang, long time!

My 2004 Accord is still going strong as my daily driver... but now I have an issue I'm hoping I can get some help with.

Car came back from the body shop (deer hit), drove fine almost all the way home then the check engine light came on. When I try to accelerate hard it jerks a lot (engine stalls?) Plugged in the code reader and it read code P2646, VTEC oil pressure switch circuit low voltage.

I replaced the oil pressure switch 37250-PNE-G01, no luck. Check engine light still on, still jerks when I go above 3000 RPM. I'm guessing it's trying to engage VTEC and isn't successful.

Anything else to try? Oil and filter were changed less than 2k miles ago.

Any way to clean the VTEC strainer without taking out the power steering pump? If it boils down to that, I might just take the easy way out and take it to the dealer.


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post #2 of 18 Old 02-22-2012, 07:51 AM
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Yikes on the dear hit. Hopefully the body shop at least got the looks right Speaking of the shop, what (if any) engine work did they have to do?

i4 or v6? In either case, I didn't think the vtec switchover was till over 4k. A low voltage problem makes me suspicious of other wiring problems... have you traced the harness back, or hit it with a multimeter? Will it do this in neutral when revving over 3k? Unless they did major work to the engine, I'm less suspicious of something mechanical going wrong internally...


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post #3 of 18 Old 02-22-2012, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by python6mt View Post
Yikes on the dear hit. Hopefully the body shop at least got the looks right Speaking of the shop, what (if any) engine work did they have to do?

i4 or v6? In either case, I didn't think the vtec switchover was till over 4k. A low voltage problem makes me suspicious of other wiring problems... have you traced the harness back, or hit it with a multimeter? Will it do this in neutral when revving over 3k? Unless they did major work to the engine, I'm less suspicious of something mechanical going wrong internally...

ivtec engages at ~2500 rpm in the k24's

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post #4 of 18 Old 02-22-2012, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Yikes on the dear hit. Hopefully the body shop at least got the looks right Speaking of the shop, what (if any) engine work did they have to do?
No engine work as far as I am aware. They did replace a windshield washer reservoir and a headlamp assembly so there could have been some electrical work involved.

Looks are fine. They used OEM for most parts.

Quote:
i4 or v6? In either case, I didn't think the vtec switchover was till over 4k. A low voltage problem makes me suspicious of other wiring problems... have you traced the harness back, or hit it with a multimeter? Will it do this in neutral when revving over 3k? Unless they did major work to the engine, I'm less suspicious of something mechanical going wrong internally...
Sorry it's i4 EX-L with nav, automatic. I didn't realized I took out the info about my car from my sig. I used to be a regular here but haven't been here in a while.

It doesn't seem to do this when revving in neutral. It happens only when the engine is under load (Drive). It's about 3k rpms, probably a bit more.

It may be an electrical problem but removing the sensor plug results in P2647 whereas the plug in results in P2646.

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post #5 of 18 Old 02-22-2012, 12:44 PM
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Did you clear the code after replacing the sensor?
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-22-2012, 05:44 PM
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Interesting. I got nothing, though I think you may be on to something with cleaning that screen. Google search led me to the Element forums that seem to agree; someone specifically had P2646 and solved it by cleaning the screen:


Other sanity checks include oil level (I know you said you got it changed, and I'll assume you double checked the level, but confirming anyway) and battery voltage.

Solenoid could have gone bad, too... it's in the same place as the switch, so I'm not entirely sure why you would have to remove p/s pump to get to the screen or solenoid. Then again, I don't have an i4 to look at, so I'm shooting in the dark here

Edit: Further reading of the thread learn'd me that there's a V-TEC solenoid and screen that's associated with your problem, and a VTC screen that requires pulling the serpentine belt and p/s pump to get to. I didn't realize the K24s had VTC in addition to VTEC, again, not having a K24 Other potential causes are a crappy cheap oil filter that causes low pressure elsewhere... maybe try another oil change?

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post #7 of 18 Old 02-22-2012, 08:41 PM
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If your oil level is not low, your problem is a bad oil pressure switch. VTEC relies on the oil pressure switch to engage.
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post #8 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by D-JET View Post
If your oil level is not low, your problem is a bad oil pressure switch. VTEC relies on the oil pressure switch to engage.
OP says in the first post he replaced it and it didn't solve the problem.

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post #9 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Well ladies and gents, it's the solenoid, not the switch. Having it replaced now.

Also going to change oil and filter, and probably start changing more frequently now. (used to do 5k, now going to do 3k since the car is "up there" in miles).

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post #10 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by python6mt View Post
Edit: Further reading of the thread learn'd me that there's a V-TEC solenoid and screen that's associated with your problem, and a VTC screen that requires pulling the serpentine belt and p/s pump to get to. I didn't realize the K24s had VTC in addition to VTEC, again, not having a K24 Other potential causes are a crappy cheap oil filter that causes low pressure elsewhere... maybe try another oil change?
I use Honda OEM filters. Have used them since I bought the car.

Occasionally I've used a walmart FRAM filter here and there. But currently I have a Honda filter (I buy them in 6 packs).

And yea, the K24 has VTC as well. The whole thing is called i-VTEC... when I bought the car and did the state inspection (NY at that time) the guy at the inspection shop told me that Honda makes better 4 bangers than they do 6's. Guess at that time he was right... now probably not so much though.

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post #11 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 09:22 AM
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Nice. Glad you were able to track it down.

Re: the oil filter... always best to throw out all assumptions when you don't know what's wrong. Good that you use honda filters... something I should probably do. I usually just get what's free with the oil at AAP

I believe that. We don't see many 100hp/L 6's out of honda...

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post #12 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Couple hundred bucks later, MIL is off.

Bad news, I just failed the nj smog check (car is due for it 02/29).
No worries, I figured since they cleared the ECM/PCM with the HDS the car would fail anyway. The only reason I really did it was to get an extension to 03/31 which gives me ample time for the drive cycles to complete and readiness codes to set.

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post #13 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 04:25 PM
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Couple hundred bucks later, MIL is off.
Wait, for what? Or was it the dealer that put the solenoid in for you?

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post #14 of 18 Old 02-23-2012, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Wait, for what? Or was it the dealer that put the solenoid in for you?
Yep. Dealership did it.

I feel comfortable doing a lot of things but I took the easy (yet expensive) way out this time...

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post #15 of 18 Old 02-26-2012, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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After a drive cycle per the owner's manual the car passed inspection with flying colors. All 8 readiness codes were there per my cheap-o Actron scanner.

Good for 2 more years.


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