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post #1 of 19 Old 01-31-2011, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Alignment specs?

So I recently went in for an alignment since I lowered my car with EIBACH SPORTLINE SPRINGS. Since the drop I noticed a slight pull to the left at high speeds.

SEARS tells me that they couldn't quite align it properly since the car was lowered but they tried to tweek it so it would at least stop pulling. The next day it was still pulling so I went back. So I guess the main problem is the toe?

They're now telling me that if I can get them the alignment specs PRE AND POST SPRINGS (I have the current alignment specs) he could probably get it to stop pulling. Does this sound right?

Is there a way to find out the stock manufacturer alignment specs (ride height, camber, caster, toe) and EXACTLY how low it's sitting currently?

Thanks!

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-06 Honda Accord Coupe 4cyl.
-Eibach Sportline Springs
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-31-2011, 06:08 PM
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I took a look

First, you need rear camber correctors NOW. I'm assuming it's dropped the front more, in relation to the rear.

The front needs the subframe shifted slightly, left and left side slightly rearward and right side slightly forward.

There's no adjustments in the front for camber or caster. The right camber is very negative, moving the subframe may net you a tenth or two positive and move the left slightly more negative. Doing the shift forward on the right should increase caster on the right.

You need to have the caster slightly more positive on the right and camber the same on both, should keep it good for most crowned roads, otherwise it can possibly lead right on crowned roads.

The pull to the left you feel the faster you go is probably due to someone who doesn't know how to do alignments. Just putting the numbers in "green" doesn't cut it.

First:

The rear end needs to be done FIRST no matter what. The camber needs to be at -.9 on both sides, EXACTLY. Then both need the toe set EXACTLY the same to get a total toe setting for your lowered car to 3mm total toe in. Which means 1.5mm each side. EXACTLY.

On to the front:

Subframe shifting needs to be done first. This isn't the most exact thing, so getting as close as possible is all that can be done.

Once the camber, caster and toe readings are taken, the toe should be set to zero both sides EXACTLY or ever so slightly toe in, equal on both sides. Toe out as they've set it with the negative camber will eat the inside edges of your tires.

The way they've set it by the readings you've provided, both axles are steering left ever so slightly.


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post #3 of 19 Old 02-01-2011, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks buddy, I really appreciate your time.

You think there's any chance SEARS will give me my money back since they pretty much did nothing and failed to call me before they worked on my car even though they knew there as a chance that the alignment could not be done?

-06 Honda Accord Coupe 4cyl.
-Eibach Sportline Springs
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-01-2011, 05:46 PM
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Well, as far as Sears giving you your money back. I think the snowball and heat thing comes into play there.

If they moved the tie rods at all to set toe, they'll call it an alignment.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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post #5 of 19 Old 02-01-2011, 10:12 PM
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How worn out are the tires? If you lowered it and drove without an alignment for awhile you could have worn the tires in a way that can make it pull.

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post #6 of 19 Old 02-02-2011, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredsvt View Post
If they moved the tie rods at all to set toe, they'll call it an alignment.
Yeah, I figured that. Hey thanks again for you time.



Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrouch View Post
How worn out are the tires? If you lowered it and drove without an alignment for awhile you could have worn the tires in a way that can make it pull.
Tires were new when I bought the car in June. Lowered it in August... they still look good to me. Would that be enough time to wear the tires considerably?

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post #7 of 19 Old 02-02-2011, 02:28 PM
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I just got an alignment today after a week of being lowered on Eibach Pro-kits and here is the printout:

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post #8 of 19 Old 02-02-2011, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimcity View Post
Tires were new when I bought the car in June. Lowered it in August... they still look good to me. Would that be enough time to wear the tires considerably?
So you went from August till January without an alignment? Yeah, that is enough time to wear out the tires in a weird way that COULD be causing the problem.

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post #9 of 19 Old 02-02-2011, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuron View Post
I just got an alignment today after a week of being lowered on Eibach Pro-kits and here is the printout:
Wow. Positive camber in the front. Not too bad though. It's funny how the later generation accords get more camber in the front. Mine (1991 accord) had a lot more camber in the front than the back when I lowered it. Front is around -3degrees and the back is like -1.4degrees. for camber wear.

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post #10 of 19 Old 02-02-2011, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuron View Post
I just got an alignment today after a week of being lowered on Eibach Pro-kits and here is the printout:

They did a slightly better job of setting front toe, your front subframe could be shifted a tiny bit to the left it would probably even out the camber a bit.

Your car needs a camber kit in the rear, as well as the toe should be closer to what it was, than where they put it.

At least they did a much better attempt at getting them the same side to side. (toe settings), although I may be missing the individual toe settings "after" on the front wheels.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

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post #11 of 19 Old 02-02-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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So I'm ordering the rear camber correctors and having them installed. Then SEARS said that since it wasn't fully aligned the first time, I have 6 months to go back in to get it properly done free of charge. Ill make sure to get a different mechanic this time.

-06 Honda Accord Coupe 4cyl.
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post #12 of 19 Old 02-03-2011, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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How do these look?


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post #13 of 19 Old 02-03-2011, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimcity View Post
So I'm ordering the rear camber correctors and having them installed. Then SEARS said that since it wasn't fully aligned the first time, I have 6 months to go back in to get it properly done free of charge. Ill make sure to get a different mechanic this time.
I'm sure you realize you'll be charged for the camber kit to be installed right?

Megan kits are good from what I've heard/read.

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post #14 of 19 Old 02-03-2011, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sodaks2k View Post
I'm sure you realize you'll be charged for the camber kit to be installed right?
Oh I know I'll have to pay for the install but SEARS wont be putting them in.

Thanks for your feedback they have cheaper no name ones but I dont think this is a part that should be cheaped out on.

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post #15 of 19 Old 02-03-2011, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimcity View Post
Oh I know I'll have to pay for the install but SEARS wont be putting them in.

Thanks for your feedback they have cheaper no name ones but I dont think this is a part that should be cheaped out on.
SPC/Comptech and ingalls are two other good ones.


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