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post #1 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Battery draining issue?!? NEED HELP

*copied from another thread to make my own cuz this issue is concerning now* :'(

had power issues on Tuesday. couldnt start car . jumped with lexus and brought it to sams club to get it replaced. Everything was all fine until dinner Wednesday. after dinner, came out to a weak power door locks like i can hear it but it wont unlock, and i couldnt start car. jumped using friends lexus this time. brought to uncle and he said multimeter saying around 12.6v with car running. recommends me to take to auto zone to have it checked out to see if they can determine if its alternator, starter, battery.. etc.

went to auto zone Thursday. 12.83v according to their thing and all test passed. iunoe =X

with multimeter at home, voltage is dropping 0.01v every minute or so with a fluctuation of 0.01v every 30 - 45 seconds

got battery replaced again because as tech was testing, it was like 12.6.. then by the time she finished re-testing multiple times (glitchy unit or what not), it was at like 12.4 something.. XD she replaced it anyway :< came home and put a multimeter to the new one, and was at 12.8 something.. she said a new battery should sit around 12.6v. lowest a good battery should be at is 12.3v. ill see after it sits for a while where it goes this time.

12.83v 13:36p.
12.57v 14:15p
12.57v 14:47p.
12.56v 15:29p.
12.49v 17:55p

This morning (Friday) woke up to check.. its at 11.79v

something is draining. cant be 2 bad batteries... nothing new THAT recently to the car. Fogs installed about a month ago. cigerette lighter charger about that long too if not longer..

anyone have ideas? or had this experience before?!


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post #2 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 10:10 AM
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My OBDII Bluetooth scanner will snail drain my battery dead if I don't drive the car over a four day period.

Are you sure the phone charger isn't leading the charge on this parasitic drain ? Where did you tap your fogs into power ?


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post #3 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iandroo888 View Post
brought to uncle and he said multimeter saying around 12.6v with car running.
^ This is with the car running it only showed 12.6v? That looks more like the alternator is not charging. And when you drive it its running off the battery thus the low readings..
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post #4 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 10:40 AM
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^ yup, the alt should be showing ~14V.

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post #5 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travrach View Post
^ This is with the car running it only showed 12.6v? That looks more like the alternator is not charging. And when you drive it its running off the battery thus the low readings..
Quote:
Originally Posted by qman View Post
^ yup, the alt should be showing ~14V.
uhhh actually i dont remember. but my readins were all with car off. i will check with car running tonight when i get home

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbo View Post
My OBDII Bluetooth scanner will snail drain my battery dead if I don't drive the car over a four day period.

Are you sure the phone charger isn't leading the charge on this parasitic drain ? Where did you tap your fogs into power ?
I pulled the chargers off last night so nothing was plugged in the cigerette lighter. I dont have any OBD scanners plugged in.

Fogs are directly connected to the positive side of battery, like my HIDs. Switch end is tapped to accessory power and turns off when car is off. At first i thought it might have been fogs that night because i forgot to turn off by button. I've even taken off the wire to battery from fogs too.

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2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan w/o Navi. - Graphite Pearl
- Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III w/ 5k HIDs and White XB Angel Eyes
- JDM Inspire Fog Lights -
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post #6 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 11:44 AM
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Number 1, you have a parasitic draw somewhere. From past reads on this same subject (and some of my own experience) it is usually a bad door switch, door lock actuator, or bad starter. However, trying to determine this on your own will be difficult. Honda techs have a pretty advanced computer which can tell exactly where this draw is with ease. So you may need to visit your local dealer to hash this one out.

Something to keep in mind on your testing. After shutting down the car and closing it all up, the computers inside keep drawing power for a few minutes before they go in to sleep mode. Each time you open a door or hood, this "wakes up" the computers causing them to draw again. So if you are opening and closing the doors in between readings, that could be the cause of the drain.

Number 2, you need to get some readings on the battery with the engine running. This will help determine if the alternator is charging properly or not. As mentioned earlier, you should be reading 14+ with it running. If the alternator is not charging properly, than that would be the start of the issue.
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post #7 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calamity Coyote View Post
Number 1, you have a parasitic draw somewhere. From past reads on this same subject (and some of my own experience) it is usually a bad door switch, door lock actuator, or bad starter. However, trying to determine this on your own will be difficult. Honda techs have a pretty advanced computer which can tell exactly where this draw is with ease. So you may need to visit your local dealer to hash this one out.

Something to keep in mind on your testing. After shutting down the car and closing it all up, the computers inside keep drawing power for a few minutes before they go in to sleep mode. Each time you open a door or hood, this "wakes up" the computers causing them to draw again. So if you are opening and closing the doors in between readings, that could be the cause of the drain.

Number 2, you need to get some readings on the battery with the engine running. This will help determine if the alternator is charging properly or not. As mentioned earlier, you should be reading 14+ with it running. If the alternator is not charging properly, than that would be the start of the issue.
the continuous readings i have in the original post are done by direct to battery and thats it. I didn't touch car otherwise (maybe i checked motor oil dip stick but i dont think thats gonna do anything). I just left it connected and checked periodically until later evening.

would a local car shop have this computer? or no? i have a local japanese shop i like going to.

currently at work. will check readings tonight to confirm.

from what i read online, i need to do readings at:

Engine off.
Engine on.
Engine on with lights on.

am i missing anything ?

Side note : dont know if this would help but car runs fine while driving. No power loss issues or anything

*edit*

wao i was randomly lookin at prices of alternators... Honda OEM from Bernardi is a little under $1,000... O'Reilly or Auto Zone is like $120s. WTPrice difference D:

1992 Honda Accord LX i4 Coupe - White - 169k RIP Oct '07
2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan w/o Navi. - Graphite Pearl
- Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III w/ 5k HIDs and White XB Angel Eyes
- JDM Inspire Fog Lights -
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post #8 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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So car wouldnt start after work (10 hr shift)

after i got home, here are the readings

13.79v with car running
13.76v with HIDs on
12.82v with car off. ill look again in like 15-30 minutes after it "stabilizes"

---------------

HOLY CRAP ! so friend sent me this link () to test if its alternator

i turned on the car.. it was fine. turned on HIDs.. it was fine. didnt notice any dimming in my LEDs.. after i put the blower fan on max... SOMETHING in the engine bay made this loud sound.... and i saw some smoke come out... instinctively turned off the car as fast as i can... i had the fan on in the garage cuz it is kind of hot/warm even at night... so i cant really originate where it came from... smelling around... the smokes odor was strongest around the alternator area....

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- Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III w/ 5k HIDs and White XB Angel Eyes
- JDM Inspire Fog Lights -
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post #9 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 10:59 PM
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The autozone alternator is refurbished.
Here I have a better deal for you:


Use Promo Code: MANNY25
I may not have selected the correct year, or engine size for your car so you may need to select the correct options. 2007 2.4L is what I chose.

This Alt is refurbished as well but has 124 good reviews.
Don't forget to remove the bad alternator and take it with you for the CORE charge cover.

You can buy online and pickup in store. Call before you go so they can have it ready when you arrive.
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post #10 of 31 Old 06-10-2016, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by versedispersed View Post
The autozone alternator is refurbished.
Here I have a better deal for you:


Use Promo Code: MANNY25
I may not have selected the correct year, or engine size for your car so you may need to select the correct options. 2007 2.4L is what I chose.

This Alt is refurbished as well but has 124 good reviews.
Don't forget to remove the bad alternator and take it with you for the CORE charge cover.

You can buy online and pickup in store. Call before you go so they can have it ready when you arrive.

ALMOST ! v6 :P

why this one over the autozone ones?

1992 Honda Accord LX i4 Coupe - White - 169k RIP Oct '07
2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan w/o Navi. - Graphite Pearl
- Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III w/ 5k HIDs and White XB Angel Eyes
- JDM Inspire Fog Lights -
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post #11 of 31 Old 06-11-2016, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iandroo888 View Post
ALMOST ! v6 :P

why this one over the autozone ones?
Lots of good reviews, it will end up being cheaper because of the promo code, oh and because mi madre works for Pep Boys. hahaha

It is a combo of those things which is the reason for recommendation, but mostly because I am trying to help you save money and promoting a good product based on numerous reviews.
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post #12 of 31 Old 06-11-2016, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of good reviews, it will end up being cheaper because of the promo code, oh and because mi madre works for Pep Boys. hahaha

It is a combo of those things which is the reason for recommendation, but mostly because I am trying to help you save money and promoting a good product based on numerous reviews.
sounds good. ordering now

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- Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III w/ 5k HIDs and White XB Angel Eyes
- JDM Inspire Fog Lights -
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post #13 of 31 Old 06-11-2016, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by iandroo888 View Post
sounds good. ordering now
Glad to hear. Keep us posted about the status after your alternator replacement.

Remember to uninstall your old alternator, and take it with you when you pick up your new one to waive the core charge.
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post #14 of 31 Old 06-11-2016, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Glad to hear. Keep us posted about the status after your alternator replacement.

Remember to uninstall your old alternator, and take it with you when you pick up your new one to waive the core charge.
picked up new one already. they said i get a $61 refund if i bring old one back.

i got the old one unplugged and screws out. but i cant get the darn thing out. its stuck on the lip/ring side thats farther down in there.. not sure how to get it out

*edit*

ok the alternator is loose.. now i cant figure out how to get it out D:

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post #15 of 31 Old 06-12-2016, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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so here's the update

in order to get the alternator loose from the lip, i had to take a hammer and bang on the body (or to be more specific, the other screw spot to loosen it up). after taking it out of the other area... the only way i was able to get it out of the engine bay was to remove my bumper and passenger headlight. and moving the power steering storage out of the way. its SUPER easy to get it in and out of the engine bay that way. I spent a good hour or so trying to do it other ways but not enough space.

after swapping new alternator, i jumped the battery and started the car. got the smoke noise thing again. I called my uncle over to help me at this point. My friend had told me to check for leaks. During my many attempts to get the alternator out, i had spilled power steering on the area under the passenger headlight. but this time, i happened to be standing near the front of the car and saw a general idea of where that smoke came from. Looked at the under panel and saw some oil. Wiped the oil with a finger and smelled it. same exact smell as the smoke. i tried comparing it to new fluids i had and nothing was close. Uncle had the idea that it may be the oil from the AC unit. Also, he had found out my power drain issue was the AC clutch relay issue. I never knew there was supposed to be no sound when u connect the ground back to battery. He found out fast =X smart uncle >< He happened to have a honda as well (newer gen CR-V but took a relay from his car and put it in mine). everything worked. no sound when connecting ground. charged up battery and it was fine. Bought a new relay from O'Reiley's and put it in.

Never found out where that oil/spray/noise came from. Drove the car last night and today, was fine for the most part. Though im like particularly sensitive to any noise right now too.

so in the end, changed out alternator for no reason (good experience though i guess). battery is charging well and holding charge well. showed 12.69v on multimeter this morning.

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- JDM Inspire Fog Lights -
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