2004 radio (non-navi) tech specs - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-18-2009, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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2004 radio (non-navi) tech specs

Howdy,

First I'd like to say this forum has been a tremendously helpful resource to me while researching the 2004 Accord Coupe EX-V6 I just bought on Monday. I have gleaned a wealth of data here while making my purchase decision. Many thanks to Princess and everyone who contributes and shares all this great information.

One piece of data I've yet to be able to find though are detailed specs on the factory sound system, in particular the output wattage. This car came with an inop driver's side rear speaker, which has been diagnosed at the dealership as a bad speaker unit itself. I knew this before purchase, but I don't think the $225 the dealer wants to replace it with a crappy paper cone OEM (which I found at a Honda parts distro online for $8) makes much sense when there are quite a few better options out there.

I have read the posts by hillstones and others who have offered their valuable suggestions on what to use to replace the factory stuff. That said, I am concerned only with replacing the rear speakers at this time. I am looking at these...



...because I can get them NIB for $60, and right now price is a factor. I want a familiar brand name and I've had tremendous success with Fosgate products in the past, but my concern is that they'll be underdriven if the factory HU doesn't have enough power going to them.

I am pretty sure the HU itself is made by Panasonic, but that's all I've been able to come up with so far. Any further insight would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-18-2009, 04:26 PM
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The OEM speakers are nothing special (at least not in my case). You can replace them with almost any good quality car speaker that fits your budget and the mounting space.

You have most likely read about under-driving speakers on a forum. This is technically incorrectly. You cannot under-drive a speaker.

If someone is going to post a response to that statement make sure you state the SPL for each 1dB step in drive level from 1 watt to full rated input power of the speaker in question and explain why and at what point the drive power versus SPL suddenly devastates as it goes from an under-drive condition to a normal drive condition.

Where this term may come from is when a high POWER speaker (Say 300w RMS) or a speaker designed for a specific purpose is used and it is designed with a lower Sensitivity than the original speaker (Less acoustic output for a given power input). In this case no matter what power you drive it with, its output will ALWAYS be less than a similar powered speaker with a higher sensitivity driven with the same power.

If you look at 6x9 Car speakers you should find most (not all) have a similar sensitivity usually to within less than a 1dB. The speakers you linked to look fine, my replacements had a SPL of 1dB less (lower sensitivity).


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post #3 of 10 Old 09-18-2009, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. So where does the term "under driven" come from, and what's SPL? I found a definition for Sound Pressure Level, but it's way over my head - looking for a simpler explanation. What are the key specs I need to be focusing on (or avoiding) while I compare speakers?
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-18-2009, 08:14 PM
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SPL = Sound Pressure Level. How loud the sound is for a given reference input level.

Under– Driven appears to come from the misconception that if you use a speaker rated at 300watt RMS and you drive it with an amp that can only deliver 50 watts RMS you will destroy the speaker if you try to push more than 50 watts into the speaker. Apparently they think that you won’t notice the amplifier clipping with a high power speaker (what utter rubbish!) so you may inadvertently damage the speaker. That appears to be what the golden ear forums are trying to say? it makes no sense to me as it is technically incorrect.

It’s a misconception because almost any speaker will be destroyed when driven from a solid state amplifier that is driven into output clipping (distortion) because of the associated high DC level causing high current (long duration) into the voice coil.

This is where a little knowledge causes these incorrect terms. Some will try to say that a low power speaker will distort before the amp is overdriven so you won’t blow it, also incorrect. A low power speaker will have the voice coil pushed past its limits of travel if it’s over driven, you will hear a clicking sound or a thin reduced sound just before the speaker open circuits.

Fact: Almost all distortion you hear from a speaker is from the amplifier distorting either by output clipping or input signal overload distortion. Please! No response about the cone hitting the grill, loose dust caps, voice coil polling or other mechanical faults, these are completely different sounds and do not change the above fact.

Just look for a speaker with an SPL of 89db or more, from a known brand and you should be right, most 6x9 should handle the power of the stock system. It gets a lot more complicated when going to high end, splits or active systems.

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-18-2009, 10:10 PM
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If you have the Automatic transmission, then your stereo is 120 watts per channel (roughly 30 watts per 4 channels). If you have the 6-speed manual, then you have the Premium Audio System which is slightly higher at 180 watts.

I have the JL Audio TR690 6x9's in my rear deck and they sound great.

I could not help but to laugh at Honda's estimate of $225 to replace a speaker that costs roughly 8 dollars. Such hard work to remove a grille and unscrew four bolts.
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-19-2009, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info fellas, you've been very helpful. One more question I have concerns impedance. I see some speakers rated 2 Ohms and some rated 4 Ohms, and some both like this one:



In the specs it says "2 Ohms" but in the description it says "True Four Ohm – GTO Series speakers can be safely driven by any head unit."

Does the factory HU run at a specific impedance, and/or should that be a decisive factor in which speaker I choose?
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-19-2009, 08:36 AM
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Most car stereos are 4 Ohms. Running a speaker that is 2 Ohms could run the amp hotter than expected. But if those claim to be safe for 4 Ohm amps, then it should not be a problem. Don't be surprised if you don't get the "serious bass performance" that they describe. You will probably need an external amp for those speakers to get the bass they describe.

When I installed my JL Audio 6 x 9's, which are rated at 2-60 watts (53-22,000 Hz, 90.5 db), I had to increase the bass on the stereo from 2 to 5. Not a big deal making an adjustment. The factory speakers were muddy sounding and the bass they produced (if you call it that) was rather boomy. Increasing the bass to compensate on the new speakers, the bass I do get is much more solid and defined. Not earth shattering like a subwoofer, but that is not the sound I am going for.

The new speakers is definitely an improvement and well worth it, but you may not get the performance as described. Try them out, and if they don't sound to your liking, return them or add an amp.
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-19-2009, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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I had a "system" many moons ago, so I'm not expecting license-plate-rattling low end with just a speaker swap. I figured it would take an amp to get that, and like you that's not the sound I'm after either. I just want to get two working speakers in the back, and in doing so hopefully get the bass better defined than it is currently - though this is obviously due at least in part to the inop speaker. So, between the generous info in this thread, my taste and my budget I think it's down to the two I've linked.

Thanks again.
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-19-2009, 10:13 AM
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Here's what I put in my '04 when I had it. The differences between stock and aftermarket is clear both visibly and audibly. They sounded (all four) considerably better even with stock power. New on left old on right. Sensitivity was 92 db so big power was not required to push them. These have long since been discontinued, just showing as an example.



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post #10 of 10 Old 05-06-2016, 06:34 PM
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So how many OHMS is the premium system in an Accord EX Coupe 2.4L? Can I run a 10" Orion 4000 watt subwoofer off the back speakers but using an amplifier for the sub itself?
Thanks!
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