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post #1 of 7 Old 07-13-2015, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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bad AC compressor

Hi all,

I have a 2003 Accord EX (? 4 cylinder) that just hit 100K miles, and the AC stopped working.

I have done the following:
hooked up a AC recharge kit the the low (L) side thinking it needed a recharge. However, with the engine on, and AC on full blast the reading on the low side was in the red.

I waited a bit, expecting the AC compressor to kick on but it never did. What can I do to test further?

When the engine is off, should the compressor rotate easily with a wrench? I was reading about a circuit that could be bad?

I am worried that it's my AC compressor that's gone bad - are they hard to replace?

Thank you.

Tyrrvk

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post #2 of 7 Old 07-13-2015, 04:47 PM
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Had the same problem buddy. I am going through exact same thing right now. I have done the R134a in the Low side port and maxed out with mine too.

I tried putting a volt meter on the A/C clutch electrical which I couldn't disconnect from Compressor it was too tight so I unhooked on side of Radiator and took reading from there. It read 14 volts or so when I kicked A/C on. So the problem isn't the relay or electrical. I am thinking of replacing the whole Compressor and Clutch together. You can get a new Denso for approx 200 bucks on Amazon or RockAuto.com for 210 shipping included.

I suppose we will also need a Dryer and Condenser as we do not want our new Compressor to go bad again any time soon.

I have never done this before and am trying to find a download for a Service Manual on exact steps. Let me know if you find a link. I tried Hondahookups.com but to no avail

thanks bud
Gary

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post #3 of 7 Old 07-13-2015, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonerman View Post
Had the same problem buddy. I am going through exact same thing right now. I have done the R134a in the Low side port and maxed out with mine too.

I tried putting a volt meter on the A/C clutch electrical which I couldn't disconnect from Compressor it was too tight so I unhooked on side of Radiator and took reading from there. It read 14 volts or so when I kicked A/C on. So the problem isn't the relay or electrical. I am thinking of replacing the whole Compressor and Clutch together. You can get a new Denso for approx 200 bucks on Amazon or RockAuto.com for 210 shipping included.

I suppose we will also need a Dryer and Condenser as we do not want our new Compressor to go bad again any time soon.

I have never done this before and am trying to find a download for a Service Manual on exact steps. Let me know if you find a link. I tried Hondahookups.com but to no avail

thanks bud
Gary
Hi Gary -
Thanks for the follow up. I realized after posting that I should explain the symptoms:
Interior fans all work fine, I can crank them up to full blast and warm air blows all day long. I can never actually hear/feel the AC compressor kicking on however. When I was testing - I looked at what I "thought" was the compressor (way down past the power steering module and while the serpentine belt was spinning, the interior "wheel" (?) "clutch" wasn't engaged. I let the AC run for a bit expecting it to kick on but it never did.

When I hooked up the AC recharge tube, the gauge on the can showed high coolant pressure, so I didn't bother adding any - I was expecting it to be low.

I am not a car guy at all, so my terminology might be all off. My hope is that it's just a bad compressor, that I can replace.
What is the dryer/condensor? Where are they located? Is it bad if I just replace the compressor and not the other items?

Thanks.
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-13-2015, 07:45 PM
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You need to diagnose further. High pressure on the low side with the compressor disengaged, is not indicative of a problem. It must be measured with the compressor engaged. The pressure you're seeing means there is refrigerant in the system, but at equilibrium. It is above the low pressure cut out (approx 20 psi), so there is another problem preventing the clutch engagement.

Youll need to check for voltage at the clutch. Then the clutch coil resistance. No voltage, the fuses, low pressure and high pressure cut out switches need to be checked. Other components such as the thermostat switch, relay are checked if no voltage is present at the coil.

Clutch coils do fail, easy to check the resistance once the connector is separated (easier said than done). A wiring diagram will show the wire colors and location of the relay. The resistance can be checked there, or 12 volts can be applied directly to the coil at the relay socket.
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-14-2015, 07:52 AM
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For grins (costs nothing and takes a sec), go into the under-hood fuse box and swap the radiator fan relay with the AC compressor relay. They are identical relays and colored green, IIRC. Test AC and report back.

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post #6 of 7 Old 07-15-2015, 05:18 PM
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I am going through this for the first time as well. I'm a car guy in training, guess that includes all of us! But I'm at a lower level for sure.

I have switched the relays and nothing happened. I am getting voltage to the Clutch coil, I put a meter on it. The clutch will not engage. I am guessing it is a bad clutch coil. Should i try replacing the clutch coil only first? I looked it up and its about a $60-$75 dollar part on Amazon.
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-15-2015, 05:24 PM
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My concern with researching this problem is that if we replace the Compressor only, there is a chance of this problem again if the system is not flushed out. I think if you are going to do something then do it right the first time.
I don't wanna buy a Drier, Condenser, and a Compressor and just toss them all on and not know if there is junk that may cause this failure again, assuming its a bad compressor. It may only be that the Clutch Coil is bad, which I am kinda scared to do it myself because I'm not sure exact measurements etc I've read about for spacing.
I will more than likely have someone else try replacing the Clutch Coil for me first and go from there.
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