clunk noise driver side only after rotor and pad replacement - Drive Accord Honda Forums | radio-pro.ru
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post #1 of 25 Old 05-13-2015, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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clunk noise driver side only after rotor and pad replacement

i have a 06 honda accord special edition.
few weeks ago, i bought 4 new tires. did a wheel alignment at firestone. it drives ok. recently, i replaced rotor and brake pad. i had a problem with steering wheel shaking when applying brake and i want to fix it. did some research. replaced the rotor and pad with new oem disc brake and brake pads. shaking gone. according to what i read, suspension has nothing to do with the brake system so car drives ok. wheel alignment was not affected. then i heard a clunk noise on the driver side. it only happens when i go over a bump. just the bump and every time i make a right turn over a bump. a small clunk that sounds like a metal hitting another metal. its not loud but its noticeable and annoying. clunk started after installation of new disc brake and brake pads. no clunk noise when making a left turn over a bump. no clunk when driving straight.

what is the problem with my car? i would like to address this asap. i dont want it to mess up other parts especially my new parts. that oem rotor and pads i bought are expensive. appreciate any help.

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post #2 of 25 Old 05-13-2015, 06:49 PM
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did you install the brake parts yourself or did you have it done at a shop? if only the latter is true, take your car back to the shop that you had the work done and have them fix it.

if only the former is true, make sure you have everything torqued to spec (as in re-torqueing everything from the caliper flange bolts to the wheel lugs).


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post #3 of 25 Old 05-13-2015, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kish View Post
i have a 06 honda accord special edition.
few weeks ago, i bought 4 new tires. did a wheel alignment at firestone. it drives ok. recently, i replaced rotor and brake pad. i had a problem with steering wheel shaking when applying brake and i want to fix it. did some research. replaced the rotor and pad with new oem disc brake and brake pads. shaking gone. according to what i read, suspension has nothing to do with the brake system so car drives ok. wheel alignment was not affected. then i heard a clunk noise on the driver side. it only happens when i go over a bump. just the bump and every time i make a right turn over a bump. a small clunk that sounds like a metal hitting another metal. its not loud but its noticeable and annoying. clunk started after installation of new disc brake and brake pads. no clunk noise when making a left turn over a bump. no clunk when driving straight.

what is the problem with my car? i would like to address this asap. i dont want it to mess up other parts especially my new parts. that oem rotor and pads i bought are expensive. appreciate any help.
first thing i would check for a caliper/caliper bolt left loose. Seen this same scenario many times.
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post #4 of 25 Old 05-13-2015, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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my friend who has a shop installed it. i was there when he put everything. i was watching him all the time, like really watching close and he used tools, torque etc etc. he put high temp grease on the pins. everything looks ok. its just that clunk. i dont understand why. i was there all the time watching. maybe i should just DIY this thing. can you please tell me what are the tools i need and i'll buy it and fix this myself. im starting not to trust anyone even a friend. frustrated.

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i will check it. if caliper bolt is tight, what else could it be?
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post #5 of 25 Old 05-13-2015, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kish View Post

my friend who has a shop installed it. i was there when he put everything. i was watching him all the time, like really watching close and he used tools, torque etc etc. he put high temp grease on the pins. everything looks ok. its just that clunk. i dont understand why. i was there all the time watching. maybe i should just DIY this thing. can you please tell me what are the tools i need and i'll buy it and fix this myself. im starting not to trust anyone even a friend. frustrated.

crmplex
i will check it. if caliper bolt is tight, what else could it be?
make sure that you check the caliper bolts, AND the caliper bracket bolts. 8 bolts total. You say that he torqued them. What did he torque them to? did he research the spec or did he guess? im not a torque nazi by any means. in fact i dont think iv ever used a torque wrench on a caliper. But my worry is that he used one, and undertorqued it.

personally, if i have someone lingering around me while im working im more likely to make mistakes. so there is also the chance he left one of the bolts finger tight. you say you watched him do everything right? but are you sure you watched him tighten all four bracket bolts, and all four caliper bolts? positive? im not trying to doubt you, im just saying shit happens sometimes. its easy enough to check for loose bolts. if you cut the wheel hard one direction, you should be able to get in there to put a tool on them. then cut the wheel the other way and repeat.

if nothing was left loose, then i suggest you get it back to your buddies shop before something bad happens. these are your brakes after all.

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post #6 of 25 Old 05-13-2015, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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he used air tool in tightening the bolts. and maybe he guessed the spec.
i think i'll just do this myself. is tightening the bolts good enough? or should i tighten every bolt to spec?
i'll buy the tools and tighten these bolts myself.
what are the tools?
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post #7 of 25 Old 05-14-2015, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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update today

so i checked the caliper/caliper bolts. no loose bolts. bolts are tight. but i noticed that the rotor is a little hard to turn. im turning it from left to right and right to left. no brake drag. no caliper sticking. it turns smooth, but hard to turn. and i still hear the clunk on the driver side. im confused now.
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post #8 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 06:28 AM
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I don't think it's the rotor or caliper. Another component just happen to show wear after the brake job because things were moved around and taken apart.

Put the wheel back on but keep the front end on jack stands. Try to move the wheel with your hands at the 3 and 9 clock points, and see if you hear the clunk. Do the same again at 12 and 6 clock points. Also try to tug on the anti-sway bar. Try to tug on the tie rod toward the inside also.

Come back and tell us where the noise is coming from after the above tests.
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post #9 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kish View Post
he put high temp grease on the pins.
Never use grease on slider pins. NEVER! Use brake lube only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crmplex View Post
What did he torque them to?
gross under or over torquing could cause this. But later OP said they are all tight.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kish View Post
he used air tool in tightening the bolts. and maybe he guessed the spec.
He used grease on slider pins, and used an air tool to tighten caliper bolts? Yeah, this guy should be avoided.



Quote:
Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
I don't think it's the rotor or caliper. Another component just happen to show wear after the brake job because things were moved around and taken apart.

Put the wheel back on but keep the front end on jack stands. Try to move the wheel with your hands at the 3 and 9 clock points, and see if you hear the clunk. Do the same again at 12 and 6 clock points. Also try to tug on the anti-sway bar. Try to tug on the tie rod toward the inside also.

Come back and tell us where the noise is coming from after the above tests.
This...

I want to check, does the sound happen in reverse and forward? Trying to eliminate "pad slap" as the cause.

If your "mechanic friend" pulled down on the driver's side caliper, he may have extended the shock past where it normally gets extended to. Look for any oil leaking out of the strut there.

OP: It is important to update your mileage and location- this stuff matters if you live in Maine and have 286,000 miles on your car, or if you are in Nigeria with bad roads, or if you are in Southern California with 45,000 miles.
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post #10 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t-rd View Post
I don't think it's the rotor or caliper. Another component just happen to show wear after the brake job because things were moved around and taken apart.

Put the wheel back on but keep the front end on jack stands. Try to move the wheel with your hands at the 3 and 9 clock points, and see if you hear the clunk. Do the same again at 12 and 6 clock points. Also try to tug on the anti-sway bar. Try to tug on the tie rod toward the inside also.

Come back and tell us where the noise is coming from after the above tests.
yesterday evening after i got out from work, i went to a shop to do some testing. i borrowed jack stands. i jacked up the front end. i held the wheel firmly at different angles and moved it. i shake it from left to right and right to left. wheel turns freely when i spinned it. one thing that i noticed is when i shake it (left to right and right to left), i hear a clicking noise. is that normal?

moving on.....i removed the wheel. i spinned the disc brake/rotor. without the wheel, the rotor is a little hard to spin. it feels tight but it spins. i dont hear any squeal or dragging noise. with the wheel, i noticed the rotors spins better and no tightness. is that normal as well?

moving on...so i checked the caliper bolts. bolts (8 bolts) are all good and tight. checking the caliper sliding pins, i stepped on the brake to see if its sliding. the mechanic who was watching said it looks ok. pins move back and forth. then i checked the tie rod and stabilizer bar. i moved the tie rod left to right and right to left. it looks and feels ok. checked the end links and stabilizer bar. it all looks and feels ok. note that when i say "check", it means i move it, feel if theres some vibration, look at it thoroughly, shake it like a mad man. lol.

i did all the checking myself except for when the mechanic was watching the sliding pins move back and forth as i stepped on the brake. but im a newbie and im not convinced with my tests. i know something is wrong. i just cant figure out where/what is the problem. and the original problem in this post is still there - the clunk on the driver side.

so this morning i tested again. i drove in the parking lot. drove and hit the brake. i made few rounds. put car at park. touched the wheel. car has a 5-spoke wheel. touched every spoke of the wheel. driver side wheel is a little hot. im assuming its normal because its not very hot and its tolerable. i smelled it too. lol. no burnt smell. brake dust is little to none. to the passenger side i go...touched the passenger side wheel. touched every spoke. passenger side is a little hotter than the driver side. and i smell something is burnt. its not much but i can smell it. also, i see more brake dust in the passenger side. the rest of the wheels have little to none (brake dust).

so now, i have two problems - clunk on the driver side when going over bumps (only when going over bumps) and more brake dust on the passenger side. i want to know where to start the repair. i know something is wrong. clunking alone is a problem. also, i dont want my new oem rotors and brake pads to go bad. any advice/suggestion please?
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post #11 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 10:51 AM
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the clunk could be shocks, ball joints or a bushing... passenger side being hotter than driver side could possibly be a sticking caliper? i've only had a caliper get frozen on me once, and it was extremely noticeable (car would pull toward that side, wheel was super hot)
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post #12 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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the clunk could be shocks, ball joints or a bushing... passenger side being hotter than driver side could possibly be a sticking caliper? i've only had a caliper get frozen on me once, and it was extremely noticeable (car would pull toward that side, wheel was super hot)
but i just had new shocks installed a year ago. the receipt says its a KYB shocks. does loose power steering rack bolts cause a clunk? i just read it.
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post #13 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 11:45 AM
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any advice/suggestion please?
Yes! Here is my advice: Post your location under your user CP AND TELL US HOW MANY MILES ARE ON YOUR CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #14 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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I read that a sticking caliper will cause a pull to the right or left. And if it pulls to the right, the left caliper is bad. And vice versa. Is this correct?
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post #15 of 25 Old 05-15-2015, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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how do I post my location?
car has 133k miles.

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