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post #1 of 9 Old 04-04-2015, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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2007 slow cranking startup battery is fine

Hi i was hoping someone can give me a hand with my 2007 accord lx sedan that sometimes it will do this slow cranking at startup and lately its been hit or miss on if it will stArt up or not. It been occuring for over a year but getting worst now. I included a youtube link that shows startup issues. I tried a new battery but same issues. I tried unplugging positive cable from battery while car was on and it stayed on but once i turned on heater to test it, the car turned off so i think it jight be bad alternator. The strange thing is iv read of people fixing this similiar issue replacing starters, spark plugs and some fixed it with just a new battery so im not sure where to start since im on a limited budget. I really appreciate any help or advice anyone can give, thank you for your time.



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post #2 of 9 Old 04-04-2015, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Accorddriver123 View Post
Hi i was hoping someone can give me a hand with my 2007 accord lx sedan that sometimes it will do this slow cranking at startup and lately its been hit or miss on if it will stArt up or not. It been occuring for over a year but getting worst now. I included a youtube link that shows startup issues. I tried a new battery but same issues. I tried unplugging positive cable from battery while car was on and it stayed on but once i turned on heater to test it, the car turned off so i think it jight be bad alternator. The strange thing is iv read of people fixing this similiar issue replacing starters, spark plugs and some fixed it with just a new battery so im not sure where to start since im on a limited budget. I really appreciate any help or advice anyone can give, thank you for your time.

Never, ever, ever, never do that again. Modern cars with all the electronics need that battery as a filter to absorb voltage spikes. If the alternator wasn't bad or marginal, removing the battery may have fried the diodes in the alternator. It also may fry the ECU.
If everything worked out fine with no damage thank the automotive gods nothing bad happened.
That trick worked on old non-ECU cars of the old days.

As you describe it, do you mean the starter cranks slow or it cranks normally and takes many turns of the starter to fire the engine? EDIT: not sure why I couldn't see the YouTube link, my question answered.

You could try tapping the solenoid on the starter to see if that is weak or acting up.

Have you checked for fuel delivery? Is your fuel filter clean, new if the 2007 has a replaceable filter? EDIT:Looks like filter is IN gas tank.

A weak fuel pump may also cause the long time to fire the engine.

The following don't cost anything to try.

Check all your battery connections for tightness. Make sure the cable to the starter is solid and not corroded. Also check your alternator connections for corrosion or looseness. When the car does eventually start measure the output of the alternator at the battery terminals. Should be between 13.8VDC-14.8 VDC. If not, bad alternator and it isn't charging battery.

Have your radio code available cause you're going to need it after removing the battery cables for an extended time.

If it is charging OK...

Charge the battery off the car and put back in. Attach the cables and try to start the car. Did it start OK? Measure the alternator output again.

Turn off the engine, make sure you have no lights on, no dome light, no radio,etc and close the door. Remove the Negative cable. Measure the parasitic drain current with a multimeter on current position in series with the negative post and the ground cable. What do you read?

30mA or less acceptable, 30-50mA might be indicating a drain in some system, >50mA-100mA Uh-oh there is a system somewhere causing a big drain and is slowly killing the new battery and the alternator can't keep up.



Mike

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post #3 of 9 Old 04-05-2015, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again!

Thanks you so much for the amazing answer. That was my dads idea and he comes from the old school lol. I will be trying all those other things tomorrow since i will be taking it to local mechanic and it should make the process much easier to narrow down now that i have your suggestions. Just want to add that lately when i turn key it will sometimes just make clicking sound but other times it cranks a lot like in my video but others it will just crank afew a just make a starnge sputter sound. Also i do have a 850w amp and 10" sub connected and thats why i tried first going for a bigger stranger battery cause i read some people fixed their issues with this, but have also disconnected the system but still have cranking issues. Will also add that it will sometimes work with a boost from one of those battery packs but sometimes it still wont start with a boost. I will keep this post up to date in hopes of helping others.
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-05-2015, 09:02 AM
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When I first got my Accord, it was always slow-cranking to start up. I didn't think much about it because it would always start, until one day when it didn't.

Turned out my starter was bad, got that replaced $500 later and it starts up real quick now. Something to consider, but keep in mind the price tag can get steep depending on where you go. So, try what Miker suggested first. Good luck!

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post #5 of 9 Old 04-05-2015, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accorddriver123 View Post
Thanks you so much for the amazing answer. That was my dads idea and he comes from the old school lol. I will be trying all those other things tomorrow since i will be taking it to local mechanic and it should make the process much easier to narrow down now that i have your suggestions. Just want to add that lately when i turn key it will sometimes just make clicking sound but other times it cranks a lot like in my video but others it will just crank afew a just make a starnge sputter sound. Also i do have a 850w amp and 10" sub connected and thats why i tried first going for a bigger stranger battery cause i read some people fixed their issues with this, but have also disconnected the system but still have cranking issues. Will also add that it will sometimes work with a boost from one of those battery packs but sometimes it still wont start with a boost. I will keep this post up to date in hopes of helping others.
Dad and myself are probably both from the same old school. Back then it was totally OK. Not today.

Your 850W amp may also be a culprit. It could be the parasitic drain source if there is one especially if it doesn't get removed from the power source, the battery.

Thanks for keeping us updated.

Mike

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"vita est brevis, vado pro V6" - Me
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-05-2015, 01:53 PM
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Most likely a bad stater, if there is an auto electric place near you take out the starter and have it rebuilt. Here is a link to an interesting discission on the issues with the denso starter it is an old link, but good information.


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post #7 of 9 Old 04-08-2015, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up just taking it to Honda so they can run a diagnostics to get to the bottom of it. It ended up being a bad starter and battery. It feels like a completely different car now by how fast it starts up..I freaking love it! Do you think it would be a good idea to hook my sound system back up to my new battery, or will this create a problem in the future? Or is there something I could add to my system to prevent issues? Thanks again for all the help I learned a lot.
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-08-2015, 06:15 PM
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Congrats! That's the same way I felt when I got a new starter. Night/day difference!

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post #9 of 9 Old 04-08-2015, 06:44 PM
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Woohoo!!

Happy driving !!

Tagged "slow cranking" for others to benefit.

Mike

2013 EX-L V6/6A (no nav) sedan CBP
"vita est brevis, vado pro V6" - Me
"Speak only when you feel that your words are better than your silence." - Anonymous
"Either write something worth reading, or do something worth writing."- Benjamin Franklin
"Never walk past a mistake " - Colin Powell, retired four-star General
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