Any helpful tips when applying Rust Check Coat and Protect spray - Drive Accord Honda Forums |
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post #1 of 3 Old 10-30-2008, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Any helpful tips when applying Rust Check Coat and Protect spray

Other than the usual locations like the door and undercarriage, are there any other places in the vehicle where I should be mindful of. I am planning to purchase the Rust check Coat and Protect spray and use it on my car. I wash my car about every few weeks - 1 month and also touch up any scratches with touch up paint to prevent any chance of rust starting even though my Accord is a 2006. So I figured as added protection to also buy the spray.

Also, I'm not sure if I want to start planning for this yet, but I was considering also drilling or using factory openings to apply the spray. Any helpful tips on this or do you guys think that as long as I am diligent about looking after my car, washing it on a regular basic etc, I should not have to this?

06 Accord SE I4 5spd Sedan
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post #2 of 3 Old 10-30-2008, 03:17 PM
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Just food for thought here......

From CNN Money:


Ben Dickison, F and I manager at Kent Brown Toyota in Elmira, N.Y., said he looks at a customer's trade-in vehicle when deciding whether to recommend additional rust protection. If the old car rusted, there's probably something about where or how the car is driven that might make extra rust protection a good idea.

Sherry Antoni of Connecticut, who has worked as a sales manager in various dealerships for about 10 years, said she never recommends rustproofing. These days, cars are rust-proof enough, right out of the factory, to last longer than anyone is likely to keep a car.

If you're thinking of getting this, check your car's warranty first, suggested Reed. Aftermarket rustproofing may invalidate the manufacturer's rust warranty.
Our advice: Is your current car rusty? Probably not. Rust problems are rare these days. Unless you have some extreme reason to expect a rust problem -- and you know you're going to drive this car to its death -- pass on this.

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post #3 of 3 Old 10-30-2008, 05:35 PM

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Rust proofing that covers the underbody with any kind of permanent coating needs to be put on a perfectly clean underbody.

It's best to do that when the car is new and driven as little as possible.

Any dirt that's there will prevent the stuff from fully sticking and sealing and the dirt will attract moisture that will remain trapped under the coating causing WAY more damage than what would have happened if you left it alone.

I've seen that on so many cars.

BTW, cars today are a bit better than older ones, especially in outer body, but they seem a bazillion times worse on under body rot. I just worked on a 2002 CRV from Vermont that lives on a dirt road. It's got 102k on it.
Lets just say, it's going to cost the owner a TON of money to fix what I found.
All of the following was so horrible, brake lines, all of them, the front subframe was nearly rotted through. One good stomp and the lines would have popped. All exhaust fasteners were nothing but nubs and the cat was ready to fall off the manifold and the manifold was junk. The actual unibody where the rear of the subframe mounts was starting to collapse from rot. Every nut and bolt that was visible wasn't the size they were when new.

On many cars in our area (near the ocean) we see frames rotted through, brake line and fuel line failures, strut failure from rot, they actually collapse and tons of frozen fasteners.

The best rust protection is cleaning, often and in the right places to make sure dirt doesn't stay stuck to the car. A temperature controlled garage in the winter helps greatly, if it's above freezing, the snow and salt melts off.

Sapphire blue '04 V6 6 speed w/ full HFP, comptech ss, momo shadow, TL-S 27.2h/20 bars, intake spacer, retro chrome MH1 HIR2 highs, hella DE fogs, EBC Ultimax, subwoofer/amp, infinity rears, HD Radio, aux adapter, navi conversion.

Vermilion 1999 SVT F150 Lightning, Sylvania/Visteon Xenarc HID headlamps, '01 L turn/marker lamps, PIAA fogs, '01 up Bilstein shocks, all Pioneer speakers, Clarion subwoofer. All Redline fluids.

Silverstone 2003 Honda S2000, bone stock
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